LittleDabbie
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Should i go for a stainless steel or pyrex? Best value vacs is within driving distance so im going there this next week sometime. My friend said he would split the cost of the unit since im making him oil all the time. Ive tried to do more research on making oil but this shit is so hard to understand with all the scientific data and jargin..
Thanks Squiggly and Dabbie.Will be getting the stainless,i noticed thomson some ebay lister had a nicer heavy-duty manifold "Installation of Gauge, Vacuum Inlet and Shut Off Valve. You can see we use a machined Manifold and Backing Plate. Polycarbonate and Acrylic are too fragile to hold a thread under the continued lid flexing under vacuum" which made sense to me,however this unit comes with a 3/16 aluminum pot...I suppose i could replace it with a stainless...does that improved manifold even make a considerable difference in performance and longevity? Do dabs make me over-think everything?lol, decisions decisions...
Thanks again,
peace,
juggo
Thats a 2 part answer to 2 part question :p
The pyrex glass is for spraying your material INTO.. The stainless steel is so u can heat and vac at the same time.. You can NOT achieve this with just heating up a pyrex dish and running over to a plastic/hdpe and putting your dish in and trying to vac that way..
Its a simple process...
Step 1 get the pyrex
step 2. Blast all yer shit into pyrex
Step 3. Set pyrex on griddle on a LOW temp the griddle its self shouldn't reach past 120 the butane its self if read with a gun will read something like -30
Step 4. once most of the butanes gone put glass inside stainlesss steel vac chamber and put that chamber on the griddle and start the vac KEEP AN EYE on your product it will bubble up and over and out of that glass its still full of butane.. Pull a slight vac let the air out and repeat a cpl times till u can pull a full vac without your oil going over the sides.
Step 5. Scrape your oil from the pyrex and transfer to PARCHMENT paper... Once on parchment paper put THAT into your chamber making sure the bottom of the pot don''t read much higher then 80-90..
Step 6. Vac more! I personally leave my vac running for 20-30 mins at a time when doing runs i dont pull to a vac and stop i keep going. Once the main BIG bubbles are gone and all your seeing are tiny little decarboxy / terps boiling away you stop the vac at this point 90% of the moister and almost all of the butane should be remove giving you a nice clean clear product.
This will of course depend on varying factors.. indoor outdoor.. Age of the weed.. how old it was when it was pulled.. how it was cured... ect ect ect...
and properly made shatter is anything thats clean .. shatter can vary on its degree of how brittle it is from the most brittle being really void on flavor ( terps are oily ) Or you can have taffy which is still a shatter a pull and snap shatter..
There just names made up tho.. it don't matter in the end what you get as long as its clean and healthy to smoke. :D
One thing to remember tho the higher you heat and the longer you vac the more WANTED items your pulling out... terps boil and vape off at a very very low temp. Add a vac to that and the temps and time decrease..
I hate to say you just know when your oils done but after doing it for so long working with the same strains over and over ya kinda do get a sense of when the oils done how it behaves ect ect.. This really is not a pick it up and run with it over night kinda thing..
Looking back at some of my first oil runs i shudder to think of the shit i was smoking back then lol
So just blast into a pyrex dish. Heat on skillet till most of the tane is gone. Transfer to my slick pad and put that into the steel vac chamber. Put the steel chamber on the skillet and purge away? I just gotta make sure to keep the temps down under 100*? Basically?
Agreed, skip the silpad. They don't play nice with the butane. Everything I can find says the parchment should be relatively safe. Worst case scenario is you're getting some benign waxes in with your stuff. The worst case with a silpad is, well, much worse.
But don't use a griddle. They do not have a sparkless design. They usually do not produce sparks but have no guarantee to that effect. Better safe than sorry. One spark = disaster.
Sorry Dabbie, I will follow you to the ends of the earth on this forum to combat that shitty advice. It's nothing personal, you're just wrong is all.
There's no good reason to apply direct heat to a pyrex dish while there are numerous good reasons not to. This really shouldn't even be done NEAR an electrical outlet of any kind if you can help it. If you just give the tray of butane some time, it will boil off on it's own.
For a beginner that's probably the best route to take, especially if you're not doing this in bulk and very often.
Hot plates are not without there flaws either pal... Anything that you have to plug into an outlet is a source for ignition.. so really your splitting hairs again...
A hot plate can malfuction at the point of solder casing a short circuit inside and catching your rubber wires and other items on fire....
Anything can malfunction .. Thats like saying dont drive a car cause theres no gurentee your gas tank wont explode.. odds are it wont.. but you better be safe and just not drive a car period..
hot water baths do not do that clearly... Heat and vac do...
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