Monster762
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600w I estimate 30 inches. Depends on which one. There should be manufacturer recommendations. I say start at around 30 inches n go from there.What's up everyone! New to post and growing. Very small grow. I currently have 2 b.o.w seeds going in FoxFarms Ocean forrest in 2x2x4 grow space under 600w LED. Temp stays around 79-82° I do have space vented with fresh air and two small fans inside. I guess my question is how far from my plants do I want my light? And should I keep them both or flower only 1 considering space? Thanks!
And were you planning to flower soon. A 2x2 will fill with 1 good plant. But if you flower them small you can get the 2. I put 3 in a 4x4 and am out of space. 9 days into flower. I'm new too. First indoor grow. Been through few issues. Learned a lot from this site. But all is good n healthy now just out of room.600w I estimate 30 inches. Depends on which one. There should be manufacturer recommendations. I say start at around 30 inches n go from there.
I suspect it might be heat or at least UV related, i am waiting to see if the breeder has any input. I am growing in daily temps of 114F and so I assumed it was a response to the temps we are having. Coolest day we have had in four weeks is 105F. Only bonus is we are in the bowl of the mountains and so night temps do swing down. not enough to equalize the higher day temps, but we are trying to keep the root temps down, we are using bio char, high oxygen carrying organic acids and active biology to mitigate the severe heat, but it must still be giving this plant a hard timeYeah that's crazy. That is 1 blade with 2 heads I'm seeing right? What causes that?
welcome dude :-) before I answer I will read on, someone else might have alreadyWhat's up everyone! New to post and growing. Very small grow. I currently have 2 b.o.w seeds going in FoxFarms Ocean forrest in 2x2x4 grow space under 600w LED. Temp stays around 79-82° I do have space vented with fresh air and two small fans inside. I guess my question is how far from my plants do I want my light? And should I keep them both or flower only 1 considering space? Thanks!
perhaps you might find your answers here buddyWhat's up everyone! New to post and growing. Very small grow. I currently have 2 b.o.w seeds going in FoxFarms Ocean forrest in 2x2x4 grow space under 600w LED. Temp stays around 79-82° I do have space vented with fresh air and two small fans inside. I guess my question is how far from my plants do I want my light? And should I keep them both or flower only 1 considering space? Thanks!
I'm not sure where you're located but ph meter with probes should only be like $15. you will want 1 actual exhaust fan or inline duct fan to use for exhaust. Circulation of new air is key.Hello peeps... Pretty much a new guy to the forum & the hobby here I have a
2 part question.
First I'm looking for a recommendation for a good ph meter. The only requirement is, it needs to be on eBay & under 50.00 max because that's what I have left as far as gift card goes..
2nd below is a list of what I currently have on hand or en route to get this new journey going. Take into mind I'm a newbie & have never done any grows in the past or ever with exception to growing saltwater corals for a few years when I was into that hobby. Is there anything else that's a must have to get things going properly?
As of now I have
2x300 Meizhi reflector led lights
Sample kit from Oregons only organics
5 fabric pots with base to catch runoff
Bail of pro mix
Bag of fox farms ocean forest
Temp/humidity moniter
Mykos
12x48x60 grow tent
Will be picking up a couple small fans this weekend to help air circulation
5x auto blueberry seedsman seeds <<< I really wish I had something different.
Eventually you will want a calcium magnesium like calimagic on stand by. Get some neem oil $5 and treat top of soil to keep bugs away before they are present. I think you're good. Never heard of Oregon organic I always run any nutes in 1/2 strength. The plant will tell you if it wants more. But don't add any nutes until you have a plant not just a sprout. Don't blow fans directly on the plants. Blow against a wall and let the air ricochet to keep plants wiggling.I'm not sure where you're located but ph meter with probes should only be like $15. you will want 1 actual exhaust fan or inline duct fan to use for exhaust. Circulation of new air is key.
different people have different methods but I start seeds in jiffy peat pellets. Really simple and work well. I had 100% of my last seeds pop that way in 3-4 days.
Your list seems good but extra perelite $5-$10 (2 bags. and add it to your soil. You want real good drainage. Don't start out fertilizing allow them to grow first. At first they are real fragile to anything changing quickly. Blueberry is good. Never tried an auto. I'm on first indoor project too.
Eventually you will want a calcium magnesium like calimagic on stand by. Get some neem oil $5 and treat top of soil to keep bugs away before they are present. I think you're good. Never heard of Oregon organic I always run any nutes in 1/2 strength. The plant will tell you if it wants more. But don't add any nutes until you have a plant not just a sprout. Don't blow fans directly on the plants. Blow against a wall and let the air ricochet to keep plants wiggling.
Neem oil? Just place on the top layer of soil?Eventually you will want a calcium magnesium like calimagic on stand by. Get some neem oil $5 and treat top of soil to keep bugs away before they are present. I think you're good. Never heard of Oregon organic I always run any nutes in 1/2 strength. The plant will tell you if it wants more. But don't add any nutes until you have a plant not just a sprout. Don't blow fans directly on the plants. Blow against a wall and let the air ricochet to keep plants wiggling.
Yes you can actually do root drench and plant uptakes the oil n puts off bitter nasty smell n taste that deters bugs too. But a drench isn't necessary unles you actually have bugs at roots. When plants are young fungus gnats will dig in soil and lay larvae which will then attack the roots. And can kill young plants. People here told me the gnats were common n didn't kill my plants. I watched them do it. I killed the bugs with neem and a soil transplant and my plants immediately bounced back. Neem just on the top soil will stop bugs from landing on it or digging it. That leaves no way to your roots except underneath the pots. Simple organic neem kills gnats alphids and mites. The main threats bugwise.Neem oil? Just place on the top layer of soil?
And I do not reccomend foliar spraying neem unless there are mites. It will burn leaves. But I used strong mix and it burnt bottom leaves where I sprayed. I did do a strong root drench. 20 ml pure neem extract to a gallon water. It did not affect the plant health at all but for some reason spraying it did burn leaves. Maybe it was the oil in direct light that did it.Yes you can actually do root drench and plant uptakes the oil n puts off bitter nasty smell n taste that deters bugs too. But a drench isn't necessary unles you actually have bugs at roots. When plants are young fungus gnats will dig in soil and lay larvae which will then attack the roots. And can kill young plants. People here told me the gnats were common n didn't kill my plants. I watched them do it. I killed the bugs with neem and a soil transplant and my plants immediately bounced back. Neem just on the top soil will stop bugs from landing on it or digging it. That leaves no way to your roots except underneath the pots. Simple organic neem kills gnats alphids and mites. The main threats bugwise.
And I do not reccomend foliar spraying neem unless there are mites. It will burn leaves. But I used strong mix and it burnt bottom leaves where I sprayed. I did do a strong root drench. 20 ml pure neem extract to a gallon water. It did not affect the plant health at all but for some reason spraying it did burn leaves. Maybe it was the oil in direct light that did it.
Neem is at Walmart for sure. Home Depot n lowes should have it too. In garden area.Is neem something I can pick up locally like at a lowes garden area or does it need. To be purchased online?
Hello peeps... Pretty much a new guy to the forum & the hobby here I have a
2 part question.
First I'm looking for a recommendation for a good ph meter. The only requirement is, it needs to be on eBay & under 50.00 max because that's what I have left as far as gift card goes..
2nd below is a list of what I currently have on hand or en route to get this new journey going. Take into mind I'm a newbie & have never done any grows in the past or ever with exception to growing saltwater corals for a few years when I was into that hobby. Is there anything else that's a must have to get things going properly?
As of now I have
2x300 Meizhi reflector led lights
Sample kit from Oregons only organics
5 fabric pots with base to catch runoff
Bail of pro mix
Bag of fox farms ocean forest
Temp/humidity moniter
Mykos
12x48x60 grow tent
Will be picking up a couple small fans this weekend to help air circulation
5x auto blueberry seedsman seeds <<< I really wish I had something different.
A simple solution of soap : real soap, like Dr. Bronner's unscented liquid soap and water is very effective at controlling spider mites and would, I believe, be much less expensive. It's the cure I routinely use when I find spider mites on one of my plants, and it works every time.Eventually you will want a calcium magnesium like calimagic on stand by. Get some neem oil $5 and treat top of soil to keep bugs away before they are present. I think you're good. Never heard of Oregon organic I always run any nutes in 1/2 strength. The plant will tell you if it wants more. But don't add any nutes until you have a plant not just a sprout. Don't blow fans directly on the plants. Blow against a wall and let the air ricochet to keep plants wiggling.
The neem is $5 for a bottle of pure neem that by the Time you dilute it to strength will make probably 25 gallons of bug repellant.A simple solution of soap : real soap, like Dr. Bronner's unscented liquid soap and water is very effective at controlling spider mites and would, I believe, be much less expensive. It's the cure I routinely use when I find spider mites on one of my plants, and it works every time.
you might try nematodes to reduce root pests, larval stages and prevent spider mite in the first place, along with many others, thrips and so on, without the risk of taste contamination, plus using a nematode pack is a great way to increase access to naturally cycled nutrients through their consumption of other risky biology, in to waste ionic NPK etc that our plants can then use as resource. :)
you might also try other bugs to eat bugs http://www.buglogical.com/spider-mites/
and general resources to try to time ipm strategies with emerging threats
http://mgsantaclara.ucanr.edu/
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