New to all this PH/PPM

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Pilted

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Plants 6 weeks old growing in soil from a hole I dug in the back yard.

Trying to understand the whole ppm ph aspect and I just did my first reading on runoff and what's going into the plants. (Just got pens to measure things)

Fertilization going in PH 6.48 PPM 753

Runoff
Plant 1 Indy PH 6.70 PPM 731

Plant 2 Steve PH 6.81 PPM 691

Plant 3 Skeeter PH 6.77 PPM 725

Now from what I have been researching I think this is decent but maybe this can tell you more then it can tell me.

Thoughts on these numbers would be very much appreciated.

Thanks,
Pilted
 
P

Pilted

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Plants showing signs of nitrate deficiency as the pH seems in range gave them some cal-meg the watering before last, and then raised the ppm on nutes this last watering. Fox farm suggest 1800-2100 ppm at week 4 which plants are at week 7 now and I am repeating week 4 dosage, which is suggested by fox farm for longer veg cycle.

A little worried on the jump in ppm and just watered them. Guess I will know by this afternoon if it was too much.
 
P

Pilted

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IMG 20220811 153742455 HDR
IMG 20220811 153753328 HDR
 
P

Pilted

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First 4 weeks I was all over the place on ppm and pH, week 5 I flushed because I only had white tips, they went to shit during that flush, week 6 and 7 oh and ppm results above. I think I had a magnesium issue when I had white tips. Then when I flushed I made things worse and nitrate deficiency kicked in. Now that I have restarted nutes they seem to be getting better, idk I'm brand new to all this?

Any thoughts would be great.
 
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Pilted

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Oh and I am 100% 4shore over watering. I try to let them dry out but when my water meter gets down to the dry mark I start rationalizing why they need water even though when I pick up pot it's easy to tell it's not dry. I think this might be a metal issue and I haven't been able to work through it yet.
 
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Pilted

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I do and top half is dry when I water, but bottom half still a little moist. 4 days between watering, I know I could go five and that I should, but still they end up getting watered on day 4. It's like my mind telling me to wait, but they look so thirsty, I don't wanna deprive them. Idk I'm working through it.
 
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Pilted

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Yeah I have perlite now, I bought it last week for the next time. I'm not sure about if I can add it to soil without transplanting them on this one. Maybe I can put some on top and work it in. IDK.

That is some sound advice and a mistake I made this time for sure.
 
Ponky

Ponky

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You have to mix it in when you set it up. I've had some media that wasn't drying fast enough and I just put a 7" Honeywell fan blowing straight into the surface of the pot. Seemed to help. Ideally the roots themselves take up a lot of the space and help it drink all its water faster.
 
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Pilted

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Yeah that's what I am hoping for the plants start to drink faster. Kinda limited at this point on how often I can give them nutrients. I need to work on my humidity also, it's bouncing around from 50-70% guess I'm need to get a dehumidifier, those things not very energy efficient. But keeping it down in the 50-55 range would help dry them out also, I think (noob)
 
Ponky

Ponky

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263

The humidity to leaf temperature ratio is more important than lowering the humidity I would say. If you're using quality LED lights then higher temperature and humidity is a good thing. Plants do like heat too. Snap a few pics and upload them. Helps gauge progress.
 
Ponky

Ponky

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263
Keeping the plants in the green zone of the VPD should help them transpire at their most efficient. Keeps the moisture moving. If you're at 70% the temp should be at least 77⁰F up to 95⁰ if you're CO2 boosted too. At 77⁰F and 50% you're pretty ideal. So you have to watch and see. Take some notes. Graph out your humidity and at what time it peaks. Stuff like that.
 
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Pilted

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Yeah I haven't even researched about that at all, so I will be doing some reading. Seems the increase on ppm on last feeding was what the plants needed. They definitely responded well to it. Thanks for the info. It's very much appreciated. I been doing a lot of reading in preparation but still making a lot of mistakes.


Quick question, what's the difference between a scrog net and a trellis net? From what I have read it seems to be the size of the holes in the net. Smaller holes means more places to put heads in the canopy? I'm working a small area 27"x27" I'm already 2/3 of the way full on my canopy space and not sure I will have the room when I put them into flower I might need to invest in a 4x2 for flower.
 
Ponky

Ponky

3,206
263
The trellis is usually a white net with smaller holes. Doesn't stretch. Uses to keep plants from spilling over. A scrog net is black and stretchy. And used to train the height of the plants. Usual comes with 4 clips to attach to a tent frame.
 

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