Non Hydro Trees.

GI JO · May 31, 2013

You are indeed correct. I've had both and don't want either one ever again. The only thing I found that worked for Pm was meltatox, not a great product to have to use but......thanks heavens that was a lot of years ago, knockin on wood right now. Did not find that a sulfer burner worked, although I did not burn it regularly. The smell wafted outside, so it was a little too obvious.

Grey mold only happened once (I think). I had a plant (cotton candy) that grew huge, dense buds. I had no experience with that particular mold so I was really fortunate that I spotted it early. I just chopped the affected buds off, added a couple more fans to increase ventillation and managed to save the rest. It occurred very close to chop, thank heavens.

JK's ideas sound good, especially spraying with high PH.

true grit · Jun 4, 2013

mountain said:
Thanks. Even staying below 50% doesn't seem to guarantee no mold in trees... Maybe more direct airflow / oscillating fans hitting every top would help...

Ya usually dropping below 50% makes plants more stressed and susceptible to issues.

ttystikk said:
As counterintuitive as it may sound, I've had my powdery mildew problems get worse when driving rh down to 50% or less. I think it actually contributes to stressing the plants and making them more susceptible to attack rather than less so. Even at the end, my rh stays around 60%. Air movement around my plants makes a substantial difference in overall health, not just disease resistance alone.

You're correct, lower the rh more out of range for healthy plant. In most environments to stay in ideal ranges you need above 50% rh- and generally less than 10% shift between light cycles.

ttystikk · Jun 4, 2013

true grit said:
Ya usually dropping below 50% makes plants more stressed and susceptible to issues.

You're correct, lower the rh more out of range for healthy plant. In most environments to stay in ideal ranges you need above 50% rh- and generally less than 10% shift between light cycles.

My temps change 20-30 degrees F between day and night. Yet, this doesn't seem to be the cause of anything undesirable.

ftwendy · Jun 4, 2013

You live in the high desert tty? Day night swings like that in a humid part of the country would be a recipe for rot....

How did you have things set up when you were living in the deep south?

ttystikk · Jun 4, 2013

ftwendy said:
You live in the high desert tty? Day night swings like that in a humid part of the country would be a recipe for rot....

How did you have things set up when you were living in the deep south?

I ran a ventilated room in the South; AC from the house vent in, sucked hot air from above the hood out.

Now I run sealed room, so outside conditions are irrelevant. Daytime 81, nighttime 61. Works fine...

ftwendy · Jun 4, 2013

Very interesting tty -- how do you maintain a stable humidity while the temp falls so dramatically after lights out?

monkeymun · Jun 4, 2013

Capulator said:
Not a tough crowd homie. Nothing but love here.

A tree though is one big ass plant surrounded by a shit ton of lighting. Like 5-6' OC. Lots of vertical lighting with some horizontal lighting as well if possible. IMHO a tree must have vert bulbs to develop lowers.

If it were a horizontal grown tree.. I would say that each plant has to have a 1k over it minimum.

This is my perception of it anyway.

Trees are for people who don't mind an epic powerbill in exchange for a few very well producing plants. I woudl go so far as to say you haven't grown a "real" tree, unless your plant hits the 2#mark.

Here is an example courtesy GG's thread:

taken from https://www.thcfarmer.com/community...a-3lb-wifi-getto-s-new-6-planter.47515/page-8

Or Quantum9:

Taken from this thread: https://www.thcfarmer.com/community/threads/here-we-go-again.52754/page-9#post-1009374

That't pretty much the idea of a tree to me.

You have never have too many of these posts. :)

ttystikk · Jun 5, 2013

ftwendy said:
Very interesting tty -- how do you maintain a stable humidity while the temp falls so dramatically after lights out?

The same thing that causes my temps to fall also controls rh; my Iceboxes. I run 60 degree water through them, so they dehuey and cool all day. At night, they bring the temp down, but still keep rh stable. My rh thus ends up being constantly distilled out of the air into tubs- which are emptied back into the rdwc to help keep water levels stable.

In summer I leave the fan sucking air through the hoods on 24/7, which helps keep temps up a bit higher.

ftwendy · Jun 5, 2013

Makes sense tty -- tks for clarification. The more I read your posts the more I hear the call of the chiller... :)

Good morning, sir.

ttystikk · Jun 5, 2013

ftwendy said:
Makes sense tty -- tks for clarification. The more I read your posts the more I hear the call of the chiller... :)

Good morning, sir.

The only way I'll upgrade from a chiller is to a full-on heat pump, which really is just a chiller that's water cooled. Then, I'll do crazy things like run the hot outlet water to heat my household hot water... and I'll convert my hot tub intoa bitchin' heat sink; run the hot water through a heat exchanger in the tub, and anytime the water gets too warm, just turn the jets on. I'm quite sure the potential is there, because the tub heater is a 4500W unit and it barely keeps the water temp stable while the jets are running.

And good morning to you, too!

MsMileHigh · Jun 6, 2013

I've been thinking about switching my grow style to trees,in coco/airports,lit by vertical hung bare 1k bulbs.I really need to keep my numbers lower.Would this be an effective method running coco in airpots? What would be the easiest way to drain runoff? How long should I veg?should i veg vert or hori?how should I space the the plants and bulbs?what's the best method of training?
I plan on getting started asap,so I need a "tree pro" to help a girl out.:)

Capulator · Jun 6, 2013

MsMileHigh said:
I've been thinking about switching my grow style to trees,in coco/airports,lit by vertical hung bare 1k bulbs.I really need to keep my numbers lower.Would this be an effective method running coco in airpots? What would be the easiest way to drain runoff? How long should I veg?should i veg vert or hori?how should I space the the plants and bulbs?what's the best method of training?
I plan on getting started asap,so I need a "tree pro" to help a girl out.:)

Yep. 20 gallon smart pots in coco mixed with hydroton and you will do awesome. Veg time will depend on strain, but I would figure in a month veg and then another 7 days to let them get used to the light in the flower room, unless you are good about gradually increasing light intensity.

spacing should be a minimum of 4' on center. so for 4 plants you would have 9 bulbs in a grid if wanted light on all 4 sides of each plant. You may want to have bigger spacing (like 72") if you have the room for it.

MsMileHigh · Jun 6, 2013

Thanks!!!! Im actually prepared to veg up to 8-10 weeks.would that affect the spacing requirements.I imagine it would,depending on strain.I plan to veg the plants while my other set of plants are budding.Most of my strains are 8-10weekers,so i was gonna do 8-10 week veg cycles.is it possible to "overveg" when growing trees?Thanks again for the help.

caregiverken · Jun 6, 2013

MsMileHigh said:
Thanks!!!! Im actually prepared to veg up to 8-10 weeks.would that affect the spacing requirements.I imagine it would,depending on strain.I plan to veg the plants while my other set of plants are budding.Most of my strains are 8-10weekers,so i was gonna do 8-10 week veg cycles.is it possible to "overveg" when growing trees?Thanks again for the help.

sounds like a good plan....If overvegging is bad...Im in big trouble!

Capulator · Jun 7, 2013

MsMileHigh said:
Thanks!!!! Im actually prepared to veg up to 8-10 weeks.would that affect the spacing requirements.I imagine it would,depending on strain.I plan to veg the plants while my other set of plants are budding.Most of my strains are 8-10weekers,so i was gonna do 8-10 week veg cycles.is it possible to "overveg" when growing trees?Thanks again for the help.

Yes it is definitely possible to over veg and it will hurt your yields when plants get too close to the light and start crowding it out. You are gonna have to learn by doing in this case.

Start with 48" centers and flip at 24". If you over veg a little it won't hurt your yield and if you underveg you will still get a nice pull.

Take notes on stretch and veg times and adjust for next cycle.

MsMileHigh · Jun 7, 2013

Ideally how tall do you want the plant to be after stretch and at the end of the budding cycle?

Capulator · Jun 8, 2013

MsMileHigh said:
Ideally how tall do you want the plant to be after stretch and at the end of the budding cycle?

as big as you can get it!

MsMileHigh · Jun 8, 2013

OK now I'm confused!! Lol 1st you said that I can overveg,and that it will hurt my yields,and now you just said to get them as big as I can get.I know its all strain dependant and I will have to learn by trial and error.I jus want to make less mistakes as possible.I'm ready to sum tree huggin!!! Lol

Capulator · Jun 8, 2013

MsMileHigh said:
OK now I'm confused!! Lol 1st you said that I can overveg,and that it will hurt my yields,and now you just said to get them as big as I can get.I know its all strain dependant and I will have to learn by trial and error.I jus want to make less mistakes as possible.I'm ready to sum tree huggin!!! Lol

if you are at 48" then ideally you want your plant to end up around 40" wide and 5 ft tall. What I meant was if you have the space in the flower room, then you can grow them bigger, but you would need to adjust your centers. take a look at the 2 pics I posted above for ideas, and do some research on here. DD's section (mpb buckets) has a lot of good info on spacing and layouts. If you study some threads here you will get all of your answers, and it's a good idea to learn as much as you can about a style before jumping in to it.

dirk d · Jun 8, 2013

Capulator said:
if you are at 48" then ideally you want your plant to end up around 40" wide and 5 ft tall. What I meant was if you have the space in the flower room, then you can grow them bigger, but you would need to adjust your centers. take a look at the 2 pics I posted above for ideas, and do some research on here. DD's section (mpb buckets) has a lot of good info on spacing and layouts. If you study some threads here you will get all of your answers, and it's a good idea to learn as much as you can about a style before jumping in to it.

there is an old saying...
"sometimes you have to run before you walk" lol -- Tony Stark --Ironman lol

Non Hydro Trees.

Non Hydro Trees.

GI JO

true grit

ttystikk

ftwendy

ttystikk

ftwendy

monkeymun

ttystikk

ftwendy

ttystikk

MsMileHigh

Capulator

likes to smell trees.

MsMileHigh

caregiverken

Fear Not!

Capulator

likes to smell trees.

MsMileHigh

Capulator

likes to smell trees.

MsMileHigh

Capulator

likes to smell trees.

dirk d

Non Hydro Trees.

Non Hydro Trees.

GI JO

true grit

ttystikk

ftwendy

ttystikk

ftwendy

monkeymun

ttystikk

ftwendy

ttystikk

MsMileHigh

Capulator

likes to smell trees.

MsMileHigh

caregiverken

Fear Not!

Capulator

likes to smell trees.

MsMileHigh

Capulator

likes to smell trees.

MsMileHigh

Capulator

likes to smell trees.

dirk d

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