Payne Farms 2016 Greenhouse Grow

[Bulldog11]

Hey brother, I don't know if you have the extra space for experiments, but I think you might be fascinated in seeing the difference with a plant started in Jan, and one started in April with no indoor time. Seed starts. Personally, I agree with what Blaze was saying in the other thread. Plants grown with zero slow downs, and rapid growth, will out perform a slow growing old plant, such as a mother thrown outside for fun.

Maybe just save one pot for a seed started later. I suggest March 23rd, the worm moon, for a germination date.

In my climate, with the high heat, it hurts overall yield to keep plants indoors any longer than they need to be. I will sprout my full season on 3/23, let them get a couple weeks old, then outdoors they go. (greenhouse) When I put plants out such as mothers, or even a clone that I kept proper light cycles on, they tend to have a higher premature flowering rate.

In your climate, this may not be the case. I find cali weather to be perfect for cannabis, and I would imagine where you're at is slightly cooler and moister. You may benefit from the extra time indoors, where in perfect outdoor weather, I have found indoor time to slow down plants.

Might be worth checking out. If what Blaze and I say are true in your environment, then you might save extra time, labor, electricity in future years.

 

[papapayne]

Hey brother, I don't know if you have the extra space for experiments, but I think you might be fascinated in seeing the difference with a plant started in Jan, and one started in April with no indoor time. Seed starts. Personally, I agree with what Blaze was saying in the other thread. Plants grown with zero slow downs, and rapid growth, will out perform a slow growing old plant, such as a mother thrown outside for fun.

Maybe just save one pot for a seed started later. I suggest March 23rd, the worm moon, for a germination date.

In my climate, with the high heat, it hurts overall yield to keep plants indoors any longer than they need to be. I will sprout my full season on 3/23, let them get a couple weeks old, then outdoors they go. (greenhouse) When I put plants out such as mothers, or even a clone that I kept proper light cycles on, they tend to have a higher premature flowering rate.

In your climate, this may not be the case. I find cali weather to be perfect for cannabis, and I would imagine where you're at is slightly cooler and moister. You may benefit from the extra time indoors, where in perfect outdoor weather, I have found indoor time to slow down plants.

Might be worth checking out. If what Blaze and I say are true in your environment, then you might save extra time, labor, electricity in future years.

You know, your the 4th or maybe 5th outdoor guy that I know knows what they are doing tell me that...I guess I never realized it made a difference. My thought process was bigger the plant, the bigger the roots, the bigger they get.

So, you said you sprout them march 23, what method do you use? I guess I am confused as to why use the worm moon, when starting indoors?

how do you deal with phenos then? I have yet so see a seed batch go off that didn't need at least some pheno hunts? 4 of the plants I have slotted for full season are clone genetics that I ran last year here...although I suppose to be totally honest, the wet dreams is awesome and patients love it, but it didn't get nearly the size I expected, hell a lot of the plants were a lot smaller then I expected. Partly because I missed 2 hours every morning on sun due to shade, and lost an hour or two before sunset due to trees as well.

but yea, I have a wet ass climate, like very wet. Rivers in front of my house, and the way my microclimate is, I am in PM hell.

I have plenty more seeds, I could theoretically start some march 23rd, its more I just usually have to pheno hunt to find the killer pheno, that doesn't mold, get PM like crazy (I have 500 plus feet of blackberries - which has same strain of pm as cannabis is affected by)

I do have some seedlings going, that are currently small ish - like barely teens, would that accomplish kinda what you are talking about? I definitely do believe seed plants show more vigor.

 

[Bulldog11]

Yea, maybe stick with your tested and true cuts then.

I start on the worm moon, because really it's a family tradition, and old farmer date. It's actually holy week, Easter week.

As for seed popping method, I like 33% peat, 33%, ewc, 33% perlite/pumice, and little oyster shell flour. Let that sit for at least two weeks. Then put seeds strait into that, bury about 1/4-1/2 inch deep. I keep the top moist with a sprayer, as appose to watering can.

Pheno hunts can be hard. Personally, when growing a hybrid I normally know what each parent looks like. I can choose pheno types from that. However it will never tell me whether or not a stain will be mildew resistant or not. That only comes after a full season of testing. So picking a quality breeder is very important.

When I put my seeds out, they have been on a proper light cycle, and I let them get about clone size at the very biggest before I put them out. In my mind, a teen is bigger, like 10 nodes.

 

[papapayne]

I am confused I guess, need a quick clarification. Do you germinate them before the 23? And then move them outside march 23? Or do you germ inside indoors on march 23, under artifical lights, and then move them out at a certain size or?

 

[papapayne]

Definitely something I would love to test, see how they compare.

 

[papapayne]

 

[breakersix]

@papapayne @Bulldog11

Really appreciate ya'll's sharing knowledge.

GL to both of you.

 

[papapayne]

@papapayne @Bulldog11

Really appreciate ya'll's sharing knowledge.

GL to both of you.

Thanks man. Feel free to sub up, grab a chair, load a bowl, and enjoy the show

 

[Bulldog11]

I place my seeds in the soil on the 23rd. No paper towels or anything.

 

[papapayne]

Well, the forecast for the next week is rain, but had gorgeous sun today, So I busted ass to get more rat runs up.

I got the mid way rat run up, locked in, and attached end wall to end wall on one side. I got the other sides rat run built, and loosely attached, Will need to raise it into place, lock it in, clamp it, then attach it to the end walls.

But, we are getting closer! I got it sturdy enough now where I can stop stressing about the upcoming storms.

 

[Blaze]

Looking good papapayne. I really like that you are doing other farm ventures. In my opinion people that venture off into growing more than just cannabis tend to have a munch better understanding of agriculture as a whole and therefore are almost always better growers.

Sort of off topic, but I'm actually very curious about your rabbit set up. I've been wanting to add some meat production to our ranch at some point and I absolutely love rabbit meat. Not to mention their droppings are supposed to be great for the garden.

I was wondering about some of the basics - how did you set up your housing, how much space do you need for them, and how much meat you get per year with your set up. We've got a lot going on, so whatever we end up doing has to be easy to maintain. Thanks!

 

[papapayne]

Yea, I think the same man. A lot of growers get tunnel vision....cannabis is a crop same as any other, doesn't take spending hundreds per bottle nutes per run to grow dank. I have found 90% the time, I get better advice from my local territorial seeds, nursery's, etc then I ever have at hydro stores. The climate in oregon politically is pretty open to, which probably helps.

So, my rabbits....I have several setups, and can happily take pics of any of them. I built them all, and they have varying levels of positive and negatives. My setup you see in the pics, has 3 slots that are very large. I generally keep my does that have babies in there, with their babies. I have 2 does with babies at all time, and 1 doe pregnant, and 1 doe on "vacation". The big cage is the hardest maintance - due to the way the slat floor holds poo. That said, that cage is also the biggest, gives them the most space, and is the one I feel the most confident is predator proof.

I have smaller setups, that are much less time consuming to maintain due to them shedding manure better, these however are much less safe if a coyote were to come along, or a very determined large racoon could probably get into them as well.

I have 2 breeds I raise - my buck is 3/4 flemish giant x 1/4 New Zealand. The buck is the bread and butter of an operation imo. A healthy buck that knows what to do, is quick about it, doesn't hurt the does, and produces big healthy babies is important.

My does are off 2 varities - pure bred new zealands, and a flemish x new zealand cross. The flemish is more for
pet stock - her babies are simply beautiful and sell high as pets to offset food costs. The new zealand breed IMO is the best for meat. The babies, from good lines, are usually 5-9 pounds at 9-10 weeks old, which is when I process them for meat. Each doe, the way I rotate, ends up with 5 litters per year. Each litter is usually 7-12 babies - so each does can produce 200-350 pounds of meat per yer.

I give them till babies are 6-7 weeks old before throwing back in with the buck., some people do it sooner - as early as a week or two after babies are born - I personally think that is to hard on the doe.

I have a house bunny to thats my wives pet, but 6 does, 1 buck, and their assorted babies and I go thru 50# of feed a week, plus they get all sorts of stuff outta the garden. I also have a fence tractor that I rotate thru the yard and let them chow down.

There are all sorts of books out there, and bunnies are definitely easy to raise. If you like the taste, its definitely a win win as each doe can easily make several yards of garden ready manure a year.

If you have any other things you would like to know, feel free to ask! I will try to remember to take pics of my setups.

 

[papapayne]

I took the seawarp, seawarp x wet dream, grand master kush outside today as well, while it was sunny and gorgeous.


The Grand master are looking especially awesome. There are 2 of them that are looking female to me, and 1 looks male thus far. The females are stacking nodes, thick stemmed, and already glistening with resin heads. If they both are female, both will go into 200s for the full season.

Also, I am tentatively thinking that a prime moonshine from clone will be going into the greenhouse as well. I am loving her more and more every week, simply a beautiful plant. If she smokes as good as she looks, she will be around the farm a long time.

2 dog
2 wet dreams
2 grand master - if I am right and have 2 females.
1 prime moonshine
1 sour cherry

I think that sounds like a pretty good lineup if you ask me!

 

[papapayne]

 

[papapayne]

heres those rabbit setup pics for ya :)

 

[papapayne]

oh yea, I got my soil sample to logan labs sent off yesterday. pretty excited to see the results...

 

[papapayne]

Oh yea, just in case, sometimes I dont get notifications, so @Blaze I posted the rabbit hutches up for ya.

Its all simple creations - my best advice is get the hardware cloth thats coated, as their urine is very caustic over time, and do your best effort to build it with as little on the floor to catch and hold poop. The more stuff built to support the floor, the more poop catches. The more poop that is caught, the more often it needs to be cleaned. Rabbits can take cold very well - but once they get wet, its game over. So cages that hold their poop and pee up on them are death traps in winter. I learned that the hard way this winter.

In summer, its the opposite, its way easier for rabbits to overheat. I have heard many a story of peoples rabbits piling up together on a hot day and all die. Placing the hutches in shady areas, protected from as much wind, and direct sunlight, is always a smart choice. Other then that, feed em, water em, and prepare to have rabbits coming out the wazoo.2-3 does can easily provide a family enough meat per year.

Their manure is ready to use as soon it drops outta their ass. No need to wait for it to compost. Worms love it to. Like straight up LOVE it. When I move my worms around, I always see huge pockets of baby worms in the rabbit manure.

 

[papapayne]

I am starting to really get my plan of attack together for the season


I am hoping to have the greenhouse complete, plastic on by the end march.

Planning/shooting to get my 65s emptied into the 200 gallons by april 15th. They have cover crops currently in them. My extra 3 100s that dont have cover crops established I will empty into the 200s asap, will also add in a grip of rabbit manure in.

Will continue to move plants outside on sunny days, but shooting to have the 200s filled, amended, and starting to compost the cover crops by april 15. planting the plants perm. into there 200s may 20th. Gives the pots a month and a week to compost, break down, and set a bit.

Will feed them AACT as well.

 

[papapayne]

heres the plants destined for the greenhouse.

 

[Blaze]

Great info on the rabbits papapayne, very detailed. Based off your info a buck and 2 or 3 does would be plenty for our family. Any thoughts on housing them with or near chickens? We've got a good sized coop, with big over-hangs on both sides. I was thinking I could put the hutches under the overhangs to keep them shaded and out of the rain. It would sure make things easier if all the barnyard animals could all be in one spot.

The only thing I'm worried about after reading your reply is the issue with heat. How hot of a temperature can rabbits tolerate, in genreal? Highs of 100 are the norm here all summer long, and usually a few times a season we get up to 105. My chickens can handle the heat (barely) but when we get those 105 degree days I have to put frozen 1 gallon jugs in the yard for them to nuzzle up against to chill off. I don't want to end up with any dead rabbits.

Oh and any thoughts on those stackable wire rabbit cages? Seems like they would be very space efficient, but they are definitely smaller than what you seem to be housing them in.