THCMonster
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I know about the bokashi fermentation but I’m so new Into growing (less than a year) I haven’t given it a crack yet I get mine from @bokashiearthworks on IG.. The owner of the company Brandon rust is a regular on cheaphomegrow podcast. Not sure if you’re familiar with it but it’s pretty informative.. but with ur knowledge and the way ur garden looks u may not need any advice. Also a little good news no need to ph up my water is 7.5 and 40ppm out of the tap, so even with 60ml of molasses it only brought me down to 6.3..
I know about the bokashi fermentation but I’m so new Into growing (less than a year) I haven’t given it a crack yet. I get mine from @bokashiearthworks on IG.. The owner of the company, Brandon rust is a regular on cheaphomegrow podcast. (He’s a pretty cool dude. He sends free beans with most every purchase) Not sure if you’re familiar with it but it’s pretty informative.. but with ur knowledge, and the way ur garden looks u may not need any advice. Also a little good news. I didn’t even have to ph up my water. It’s 7.5PH and 40PPM out of the tap, so even with 60ml of molasses it only brought me down to 6.3..
I don’t fully understand the way everything breaks down but I want to learn everything I can.. I want to eventually build my own super soil and have living soil so I can let the soil work for me.. I also want to run a soiless mix organically because the rate of growth on coco grows that I see is amazing compared to soil..Well i actually make my own nutrients from scratch! So believe it or not fermentation is the name of the game for me! Thats why its surprising to see you know about bokashi, because its very similar to what i do, the only difference is that only 1 of my fermentations is anaerobic, the rest are aerobic fermentations!
I would highly recommend you learn as much as you can about how that bucket works and everything breaksdown, it will help you greatly in the future for your grows! Especially if you use microbials!
I never knew that molasses was a ph down. that may have been why I had been using the growers recharge every watering with molasses on my last grow and never had any problems.. Maybe the two were balancing each other out.. I was using amino acids to lower ph then use growers recharge then I would put molasses in and the flowers smelled amazing.. the only thing I changed was the langbeinite and the first run I accidentally put in some jacks 10-30-20 before I knew it was organic and it actually did pretty good (well I don’t know if it contributed or not but people swear by it including CAP) but that was it..Glad to see you didnt have to use ph up. A lot of people dont know about the natural ph down known as MOLASSES, lol
Most people use the ph down in a bottle which is phosphoric acid, even though its perfectly fine to use, sometimes it can throw off your nutrients because it is a nutrient itself!
Any molasses will work realistically... But a lot of people swear by blackstrap molasses.I'm in the same spot brother.
When you say to use molasses.... You mean from the supermarket right?
I'm on my fifth grow and every one of them has had this yellowing!
It Started in week 3 of flower and I'm now into week 5
I don’t fully understand the way everything breaks down but I want to learn everything I can.. I want to eventually build my own super soil and have living soil so I can let the soil work for me.. I also want to run a soiless mix organically because the rate of growth on coco grows that I see is amazing compared to soil..
Looks familiar brother.. have u done a slurry test, like someone recommended I do at the beginning of the thread? U in soil or soilless? This thread has a lot of knowledge in it, I’d recommend reading it in its entirety.. we look like we’re experiencing the same problems. Best of luck homie..I'm in the same spot brother.
When you say to use molasses.... You mean from the supermarket right?
I'm on my fifth grow and every one of them has had this yellowing!
It Started in week 3 of flower and I'm now into week 5
So to slurry your medium correctly, you do what...?Any molasses will work realistically... But a lot of people swear by blackstrap molasses.
But yea the molasses at the grocery store will work!
But i would check the ph of your soil, cause if you soil in the proper ph range then it could be just a nitrogen problem, which if your trying to stick organic the you can use wormcastings, or if you have a hydro store near you look for a product called nature nectar nitrogen.
But if your ph is too high then i would definitely use the molasses on EVERY watering until the ph stablizes
I started from the start and I have to agree, very good info. Thanks man you tooLooks familiar brother.. have u done a slurry test, like someone recommended I do at the beginning of the thread? U in soil or soilless? This thread has a lot of knowledge in it, I’d recommend reading it in its entirety.. we look like we’re experiencing the same problems. Best of luck homie..
I'm running a 50/50 soil/Coco mix and get an average of 4 Oz per plant and I know I can do better I just can't get there yet lol.Looks familiar brother.. have u done a slurry test, like someone recommended I do at the beginning of the thread? U in soil or soilless? This thread has a lot of knowledge in it, I’d recommend reading it in its entirety.. we look like we’re experiencing the same problems. Best of luck homie..
One thing I have been doing to prevent early yellowing is adding a top dress of Espoma Iron-tone (about 1 tbls per 5gal of soil)-added at week 1 of flower. It is iron and sulfur. This will drop your ph a little so take that into account. It hasn’t caused me any problems (I have plenty of lime in my soil), and I haven’t had any early yellowing since i starting adding it.I'm in the same spot brother.
When you say to use molasses.... You mean from the supermarket right?
I'm on my fifth grow and every one of them has had this yellowing!
It Started in week 3 of flower and I'm now into week 5
So to slurry your medium correctly, you do what...?
I've seen those pH meters you can put in your medium with a I long probe on them, are they any good?
I'm running a 50/50 soil/Coco mix and get an average of 4 Oz per plant and I know I can do better I just can't get there yet lol.
Hey @Kushymane i would highly recommend taking this persons advice!One thing I have been doing to prevent early yellowing is adding a top dress of Espoma Iron-tone (about 1 tbls per 5gal of soil)-added at week 1 of flower. It is iron and sulfur. This will drop your ph a little so take that into account. It hasn’t caused me any problems (I have plenty of lime in my soil), and I haven’t had any early yellowing since i starting adding it.
So this might sound silly to ask but my flower nutrient is 20-8-30 and my veg nutrient is 28-8-30 or something close to that... Would it hurt to use my veg nutrient to help with the nitrogen boost as the other ratings on P and K are the same ?Well the deficiency is either nitrogen or iron, but its not going to fix itself over night, it takes time!
If your whole plant is evenly yellowing the. Its nitrogen, but only certain areas of the plant are yellowing then its usually iron.
But the thing is that you probably have the iron and nitrogen available! But because your ph was 7.3-7.4 your plant wasnt able to uptake what is actually available!
So now that you have brought the PH back down, you could probably give it a good boost of nitrogen and iron on the next feeding and it will correct itself over time!
When your soil is that alkaline it doesnt matter how much nutrients you add in, the PH is locking the plant out of being able to uptake them.
Now that its back in proper PH range then just give it some food! Now it can actually properly uptake the nutrients its deficient in!
But it will take time. You will know if its working when the yellowing leaves start slighty getting color back and no new leaves turn yellow!
Give it about a couple days to a week. If it continues you will need supplements
THCMonster with that real coco info ! Preach brother.If you decide to run coco you cant amend it with organic matter and still treat it like normal coco! The moment you add organic material to coco (worm castings, bat guano, kelp meal, etc...) the composition of the coco will change into something more resembling dirt unfortunately. This means you wont be able to water everyday and not worry about problems and you wont be able to keep the coco moist like coco can stay.
If you want to run organics in coco properly and run it like normal coco you have to use liquid organic fertilizers, and only liquids.
The only amendments you can add to coco is mineral based (sulfur, lime, Langbeinite, rock phosphate, etc...)
So be careful how you go about it once you do decide to go to coco!
Not saying you cant amend coco, just saying once you amend it with organic material you cant treat it like pure coco anymore!
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