Please help a novice in distress

[Bdubs]

I would vent the exhaust out the window. Seal the windows with Reflectix or a similar product and seal it with duct tape.
I’d turn the floor fan off unless I have temperature problems.

You have all the air they need in the house.

If you vent out, you are always pulling fresh air from the house into your room.
Your roots have oxygen and they are not going to starve for it, you shouldn’t even worry about all that.

Temperatures would be the only problem with the exhaust blowing out into the room. iMO.

 

[Bdubs]

If it is a concern how much oxygen and CO2 you have available for them, you can always hang a co2 bag in the tent if you don’t think you’re getting enough. This may be a good option if you are running higher temps and having trouble keeping 70s and stay in the 80s Sometimes, doing a couple things that delete the worries, solves the problem.

 

[Bdubs]

Overall, you just don’t need to worry about any of that stuff. It’s not causing any problems. They shouldn’t need supplementing for all this fresh air. If it is, CO2 bag it and move on. But vent that exhaust outside the window

 

[Trash_2002]

@GNick55 @IsanFarmer
now it will make sense, every tent and the room all have negative pressure going.
arrows represents direction of air, balls represent extraction fans.

 

[BillyBanchan]

@GNick55 @IsanFarmer
now it will make sense, every tent and the room all have negative pressure going.
arrows represents direction of air, balls represent extraction fans.

View attachment 2003623

Nice! I forgot if you mentioned it, but what size fan is that exhausting the room?

 

[Trash_2002]

Nice! I forgot if you mentioned it, but what size fan is that exhausting the room?

4 inch on medium setting (80cfm aprox)it slowly replenish co2 24/7, AC Fan on max setting is ~1000cfm so it doens't change room temp much (AC is less than 0.5c less efficient with the room extration)

 

[BillyBanchan]

4 inch on medium setting (80cfm aprox)it slowly replenish co2 24/7, AC Fan on max setting is ~1000cfm.

Right on... I love the design and flow! When our "spare" room becomes available, I think this will be something I will do, too, as I'll have at least two flower tents and a veg tent, plus a clone/seedling roost.

 

[ILgrower]

I'm using 50% of this, 25% earth worm castings and 25% perlite. The options for soil where I am are very limited.

that's the same formula as Maricle Gro's African Vioplets, you paid over 50 bucks for that, I spent 7, you got to be smart as the sayings in a rap song from Mendo Dope Farms

 

[Trash_2002]

that's the same formula as Maricle Gro's African Vioplets, you paid over 50 bucks for that, I spent 7, you got to be smart as the sayings in a rap song from Mendo Dope Farms

he is in Thailand tho, who knows what's available and prices there, i know that where i live anything you pay in dollar its 8x-10x pricier here. 3rd world problems. We get much lower paychecks and pay premium for shit.

 

[BillyBanchan]

that's the same formula as Maricle Gro's African Vioplets, you paid over 50 bucks for that, I spent 7, you got to be smart as the sayings in a rap song from Mendo Dope Farms

His last sentence was this:

The options for soil where I am are very limited.

 

[IsanFarmer]

@GNick55 @IsanFarmer
now it will make sense, every tent and the room all have negative pressure going.
arrows represents direction of air, balls represent extraction fans.

View attachment 2003623

That's a good diagram and now I understand. So the extractor fan in the top right corner is the one that you posted a photo of in your thread? The one with the double filter system? Do you have extra fans sucking air into the bottom of the tents or is it being done naturally by your inline fan because of the negative air pressure? And I have to ask again Trash - how the hell do you prevent light leaks from your veg tent during the extra hours of their light cycle? Surely the gaps in the tent leak enough light for it to be a problem for your flowering plants during their dark cycle?

that's the same formula as Maricle Gro's African Vioplets, you paid over 50 bucks for that, I spent 7, you got to be smart as the sayings in a rap song from Mendo Dope Farms

Not at any point did I mention how much I pay for the ingredients of my medium? Whatever you're paying for yours, I'm probably paying less than you where I am in Thailand.

 

[Trash_2002]

That's a good diagram and now I understand. So the extractor fan in the top right corner is the one that you posted a photo of in your thread? The one with the double filter system? Do you have extra fans sucking air into the bottom of the tents or is it being done naturally by your inline fan because of the negative air pressure? And I have to ask again Trash - how the hell do you prevent light leaks from your veg tent during the extra hours of their light cycle? Surely the gaps in the tent leak enough light for it to be a problem for your flowering plants during their dark cycle?



Not at any point did I mention how much I pay for the ingredients of my medium? Whatever you're paying for yours, I'm probably paying less than you where I am in Thailand.

Yep that's the extractor I posted the photo,
No extra fans, all negative pressure with passive intakes, all tents has inline extraction fans.

Only lower back window is open of the tents and all tents are 2"/5cm from the back walls(the clones one doesn't have any windows open), veg and flower are opposing sides too to help.

Light doesn't make turns tho it can only reflect, if you put a big black matte felt behind each tent intake window glued to the wall no light will reflect back, zero leaks, you can't see shit inside the room ;-)

Also the tents I use are premium made no cracks/stiches leakage, 1600d nylon and diamond mylar thick stuff

 

[IsanFarmer]

Yep that's the extractor I posted the photo,
No extra fans, all negative pressure with passive intakes, all tents has inline extraction fans. Only lower back window is open of the tents and all tents are 2"/5cm from the back walls(the clones one doesn't have any windows open), veg and flower are opposing sides too to help.

But does it work though?

Light doesn't make turns tho it can only reflect, if you put a big black matte felt behind each tent intake window glued to the wall no light will reflect back, zero leaks, you can't see shit inside the room ;-)

Well if that's true then that's probably the single best piece of advice you've given me so far. That could open a whole new world to me because I could use my new grow room to set up a continuous grow cycle. How do you achieve different temperatures in different tents when they're all in the same room? For example, in late flower the temperature needs to be lower in that tent than it would in the veg tent?

Also the tents I use are premium made no cracks/stiches leakage, 1600d nylon and diamond mylar thick stuff

What tent brand do you use exactly?

 

[Trash_2002]

But does it work though?



Well if that's true then that's probably the single best piece of advice you've given me so far. That could open a whole new world to me because I could use my new grow room to set up a continuous grow cycle. How do you achieve different temperatures in different tents when they're all in the same room? For example, in late flower the temperature needs to be lower in that tent than it would in the veg tent?



What tent brand do you use exactly?

Some compromises has to be made, off course, but it works great, normally my AC is set to 23-24c
Clone box with 45w twister fluorescent lamp stays at 24-25c 60-65rh
Veg with 260w LEDs stay 25-26c 55-60rh
Flower with 520w LEDs (80%) stay 26-27.5c 50-55rh
Room stay 22.5-23.5c 50-65 Rh, and I dry inside the same room too LOL

Not bad at all tho. Every tent because it has different wattage and different amounts of controlled passive intake has its own temperature and humidity range.

This flowering tents was a custom order from a friend who has a growshop in my city.
But you can find premium 1600d nylon with diamond mylar tents on ebay or AliExpress i think.

 

[IsanFarmer]

These were taken today about two hours after their first feed since I flipped them. I flipped them on Monday so this is their fifth cycle of twelve hours of light. I watered them on Monday with enough water to create around 30% run off which was about 6 to 7 litres each at PH 6.4. The only thing I added to the water was 60ml of molasses. Now that they're in flower I was expecting the soil to dry up quicker but it hasn't and they didn't need feeding until today, four days later. I mixed 6ml of CalMag, 45ml of Big Bloom, 30ml of Grow Big and 15ml of Tiger Bloom into 12 litres of water at PH 6.2 and gave them 4 litres each. I'm not sure what the EC is because I'm waiting for my meter to be delivered.

The "stretch" period has been a massive disappointment so far and they've barely grown since I flipped them so there must be something wrong but I'm not sure what it is? Temperatures and RH levels are very stable. The light cycle is 78 to 82 Fahrenheit and 47 to 52% RH. The dark cycle is 74 to 77 Fahrenheit and 45 to 50% RH.

I thought that maybe the light is in the wrong position so I lowered the light two days ago to 23" above the tallest canopy and 30" above the shortest with the plants receiving 570 and 460 PPFD respectively. The leaves seem very yellowy and they've barely grown since I flipped them. What is it I am doing wrong?

 

[IsanFarmer]

Some better photos from today that may make it easier for someone to diagnose the problem.

 

[ILgrower]

the exterior tips of the leaves are a problem, look at your steps and go over it then you'll see, I see them all the time, I can't help you b//c when you try you get blamed, so I'm staying out, b/c I see them die & they go ballistic, too many issues not enough of what could be the issue, can from overwatering to over fertilizing

 

[Bdubs]

If any nutrients were boosted or changed from a week before to a week or two after, you may be nute shocking while it’s performing the most critical and stressful stage of its life. You don’t want to adjust anything during that period of time and let her go. Feed the same nutrient mix and amount. I personally only focus measuring and raising my lights to maintain 24” during the stretch. Once I hit 2 weeks into it, I’ll adjust my nutes up a bump. Adjusting nutes will shock her in this phase. No touchy when trigger flower. If no time was given to adjust and you’ve thrown higher nutes and then flipped flower, she is just struggling to figure it out.

Remember, marijuana will focus its energy on fixing/finding its least available resource. Whether it be a broken stem, adjusting to the nutes, hot soil, Stomata closure…anything the plant needs to correct that isn’t optimal, it will stop growth to “fix”. So that is why you keep it simple for her and known conditions a week before and at least a week after flipping to flower.

She stopped growing because she is figuring something else out and needs to find and fix it before she wants to grow up again. It could even be dry spots or simply you added a nutrient she is just trying to filter out, now that it is in abundance and nutrients are a stress. If you changed anything during the flip, she will slow down growth to fix it.

 

[Trash_2002]

Can you do a lights out flash on photo?
Just quickly turn light off take photo.with flash and turn lights on again.
Cheers

 

[Bdubs]

80 degrees at 50 RH is already tipping into stomata closure. For mindless control of VPD, 80/60 for 1.3ish VPD. 50 RH at 80 and you’re pushing over 2.0 VPD = no transpiration. To be in the 40-50 RH zone, you shouldn’t touch 80 degrees. I follow my VPD meter vs any chart, as the charts are all different and the VPD numbers are way off from sensor readings.