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I would cut the molasses out def. I’m told by some more experienced growers that even in organic-only gardening that you only need molasses two or three times per grow and two of those are two weeks before flower and two weeks before harvest. Try just water and watch for when they need cal-mag. And maybe Silica. Your soil should get them through without nutrients for a couple fo weeks. I went 45 days without adding anything at all in ocean forest soil for my first grow. All went fine. Plenty of yield etc. The next time I had accumulated a lot of Down to Earth products and other things like grow dots and recharge mixed into an empty soil like ProMix. But all that could lead to over feeding. It’s tricky but the way your set up looks makes me think you’ll do fine. The first grow is anxiety inducing but remember they are easy, strong plants that mostly love to be left alone in the warm to hot light, drinking in their fresh water, and feeling the breeze. That’s all. The other stuff we do is for yield and potency, etc. Low stress training and special nutes. That’s for us; not them really. So you can always step back and take a breather and they’ll be great! Win/win.I hope that's not true because I've just given them another 2 litres of water each with molasses and liquid seaweed. I put 1 tablespoon of molasses and 6 millilitres of seaweed in 6 litres of water.
I’d watch 420Scene on YouTube. (Guy w/blue glasses) He got me through my first grow and posts vids featuring recipes for super soil and compost tea (bubbling water to get the air in there, and adding castings, kelp, bone, etc etc, His videos are very informative and in short doses so that you don’t get overwhelmed. <3This is good stuff. It would be good to see a comparative grow, all things being equal, with 1 being your basic, "regular" soil that most novice growers would buy or put together from a few fairly common ingredients.........the other this more "living soil", one that's built the way you're talking about, with all of the ingredients that make it happen. I'm going to assume that there's going to be a meaningful, obvious difference, otherwise, why do it?
The next question is......is there a relatively simple way to achieve this? Most growers are probably not going to buy a dozen or more ingredients, or spend time mixing up concoctions and getting very science-y.......
If you had to strip it down and tell someone the easiest way to achieve the goal of putting this kind of soil together, with the least amount of work, ingredients......granted it may not be as great as doing all of the work, but what would you advise? Let's say I've already got a few good bags of soil, perlite, peat moss.......what could I add into this mix that would pretty much get me there?
Glad to here you are enjoying the grow it's not only about the high. Your plants look nice they are a little too compact. If you kept your lights too low and continue to keep lights too low your plants will not gain the height they need. You don't want them stretched to the sky but you do want more room between knobs than you have now. It needs room to stretch out and grow. It should be taller and wider at this stage. Keep that in mind on your next grow. Being that compacted can cause all sorts of problems. You can raise the lights some more till they gain some height then adjust lights as needed.
not really, but you gonna get a more even spread of light.This might seem like a stupid question but if I raise the light and increase the intensity of the light so that the plants receive the same micromoles of light, will they still grow into the light and stretch even though they're receiving the same amount of light as they were before?
not really, but you gonna get a more even spread of light.
it depends if the genetic is more prone to stretch or not, more light intensity "bushier" plants and faster growth to some extent, same light intensity "same" growth rate and maybe more stretch, but off course a bigger plant will grow faster too, there are some variables in play here.Whereas if I raise the light but keep it at the same intensity, the plants will grow into the light and get taller? Or does it not work like that?
it depends if the genetic is more prone to stretch or not, more light intensity "bushier" plants and faster growth to some extent, same light intensity "same" growth rate and maybe more stretch, but off course a bigger plant will grow faster too, there are some variables in play here.
I Never used RO water to grow plants, I only use it to calibrate some instruments.I fed my plants with the Grow Big 4 days ago and they haven't grown at all since then. I am starting to think it's because my PH pen doesn't work properly so all the readings are incorrect and therefore the plants aren't absorbing any nutrients? Please see my separate thread about this.
Edit - I won't be making that thread because I have just worked out what the problem is! I am using RO water and it is difficult for these pens to give an accurate reading in RO water. As quoted from their website:
"As reverse osmosis removes all ionic and solid components present there should only be water present. The water molecules are made up of equal ratios of Hydrogen (H+) and Hydroxide (OH-) ions and so the pH should be neutral (7). However, as these ions are bound up in a water molecule (H2O) they cannot interact with the pH probe so you will not obtain a reading. High sensitivity probes can be used, but are a lot more expensive as they use a different technology, but these are not necessary for agricultural measurements."
According to their website the solution is this:
"It is popular to add a small amount of Calcium Magnesium (calmag) to RO water to be able to obtain a pH reading as our probes can measure pH once there are some ions present (Cl- and Mg2+). However, the addition of calmag doesn’t change the pH of the solution at all as it doesn’t contain Hydrogen or hydroxide ions which are the only ions that can change the pH. Even though you may now receive a reading, it has not changed from before you added the calmag, so what’s the point?"
I Never used RO water to grow plants, I only use it to calibrate some instruments.
Your plants look healthy and you topped them just few days ago, I bet the side branch's already growed some. Have photos?
Cheers
Yes RO water can completely fuckup a ph pen that's true,.I've seen it before.I didn't realise that RO water isn't suitable for PH pens. It's playing havoc with mine so I'm going to start using tap water instead. I think the RO water may have completely fucked my PH pen because it won't give me a stable reading for my tap water either, the reading keeps dropping until the pen switches off. Surely that's not right for an expensive Bluelab pen? If it does that how do I know what the PH is? I topped my plants a week ago. they've grown a bit but surely they should be bigger at this stage? Should I cut the big fan leaves off the plants?
Yes RO water can completely fuckup a ph pen that's true,.I've seen it before.
Your plants looking good to me, they are growing for sure, giving apical dominance for all the side branches but growing as they should. Wait 7 to 14 days before removing fan leafs or any invasive procedure.
RO water and most simple ph pens are enemies, RO water for those pens should be used only to clean quickly between calibration solutions when doing calibration procedure.When you say that do you mean using it with RO water just for testing and not hydration? I've never used it to hydrate the pen, only for testing the PH of RO water but in my experience it would appear that this can still fuck the pen up?
When you say that do you mean using it with RO water just for testing and not hydration? I've never used it to hydrate the pen, only for testing the PH of RO water but in my experience it would appear that this can still fuck the pen up?
RO water and most simple ph pens are enemies, RO water for those pens should be used only to clean quickly between calibration solutions when doing calibration procedure.
Why in the world did u top these plants?
View attachment 1991110
Trio set for safe use cleaning solution soak for 1 hour every 6 month rinse with RO, and use few drop of storage solution when you are done. AS trash said RO for rinse between. Do not turn on the pen during cleaning or rinse
I am from Chiang Mai, study in Bangkok, working and living in Phan Thong for Kubota, you probably saw then a lot 555. Phan Thong Ph is 7.4 stable ppm 210, in Bkk it fluctuates a lot but often out of range for both so using RO mixed with tap water, no choice.Mine isn't cheap, it's a Bluelab but I still think it's damaged it. I've been reusing the buffers like an idiot because I didn't realise you couldn't. That certainly hasn't helped. I have some new calibration solutions on the way. If the pen reads the calibration solutions accurately and the readings don't drift, does that mean the pen is still ok to use?
Because I am an impatient newbie that doesn't know what he's doing! I don't think it did my plants a lot of good and I won't be doing it so early with my next grow. Do you think it has had a detrimental affect on the plants?
That's the same company that I've been using for buffer solutions etc. I'm going to stop using RO water and use the tap water instead. Where I am in Isan the tap water has a PPM of around 60 and a PH of about 7.1 which is great. What is the PPM in Chiang Mai? I've just been looking at the Provincial Waterworks Authority website and they say that they put chlorine in the water. If I fill a container of water and let it sit you say the chlorine will evaporate from the water? I've heard that pumping air into the water will do that too?
Yep buffer calibration solutions are meant to be used once, 20ml in a small coffee plastic cup and thrown away after calibration procedure, try to rehidrate the electrode for 2h with storage solution than clean it and calibrate, if it calibrate and read the buffer solutions ok, you saved it, if it's still drifting you need a new pen, you can try ask them for a guarantee, since they never really clearly state RO water is electrode killer on those products, they mention breafly in manual, "don't store with RO water" or something but never stating " NEVER use this product with RO water you will kill your electrode and will void your warranty !!!"Mine isn't cheap, it's a Bluelab but I still think it's damaged it. I've been reusing the buffers like an idiot because I didn't realise you couldn't. That certainly hasn't helped. I have some new calibration solutions on the way. If the pen reads the calibration solutions accurately and the readings don't drift, does that mean the pen is still ok to use?
Because I am an impatient newbie that doesn't know what he's doing! I don't think it did my plants a lot of good and I won't be doing it so early with my next grow. Do you think it has had a detrimental affect on the plants?
That's the same company that I've been using for buffer solutions etc. I'm going to stop using RO water and use the tap water instead. Where I am in Isan the tap water has a PPM of around 60 and a PH of about 7.1 which is great. What is the PPM in Chiang Mai? I've just been looking at the Provincial Waterworks Authority website and they say that they put chlorine in the water. If I fill a container of water and let it sit you say the chlorine will evaporate from the water? I've heard that pumping air into the water will do that too?
Yep buffer calibration solutions are meant to be used once, 20ml in a small coffee plastic cup and thrown away after calibration procedure, try to rehidrate the electrode for 2h with storage solution than clean it and calibrate, if it calibrate and read the buffer solutions ok, you saved it, if it's still drifting you need a new pen, you can try ask them for a guarantee, since they never really clearly state RO water is electrode killer on those products, they mention breafly in manual, "don't store with RO water" or something but never stating " NEVER use this product with RO water you will kill your electrode and will void your warranty !!!"
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