Post your Organic Soil Mix

[Underthesun]

Here is how to take the test:

Sample the soil from at least 5 different locations. if you can take more that is better for a representation of your soil.
Use a plastic cup or shovel to scoop it up.

Place all the samples into a bucket.
DO NOT use a container made of metal!
Mix well.
Take out 2 cups and put in zip lock baggie.
Seal it well. Write your name, email and sample name on the baggie with a permanent marker.

Go to http://loganlabs.com/doc/submissionworksheet.pdf, download and print soil submission worksheet.
At bottom of form write Base Test Plus EC, Mo,Co, Se, Si
Example name for sample: Soil Mix 1.
Instructions for filling out worksheet are here:
http://www.loganlabs.com/doc/submissionworksheet.pdf
Ask if you have any questions!

Note: The first time you work with Logan Labs you have to pay upfront. Additional tests they will bill you after doing the test.
Make check to logan labs for $30.00
Mail Worksheet and soil sample to:
Logan Labs
P.O. Box 326
Lakeview, OH 43331

After logan labs completes the test. They will email you back the soil test result.
I can then give you recommendations for amendments based on your soil test.
That is the bare minimum to know what is going down with the soil chemistry for long term release.

Are you using soil less???? Peat based or coco. no top soil in it.

To account for a lightweight soil based on peat or coco coir and to make the most accurate amendment recommendations.

Take it a step further for accuracy!
weigh the soil to calculate the actual weight of your soil less.
Step to account for soil weight:
Ideally you should weigh a one gallon bucket of soil. Take a one gallon bucket and lightly pack it with soil. Weigh the soil and write down the weight.
Dry the soil out. Do this in sun or dry in the oven at 250f.
Write down the weight of one gallon of soil. Post up the weight of the soil moist and then dry.

For me to make a soil amendment recommendation I need your:
1. Soil Test.
2. Soil Weight
3. Size of your containers, beds or farm.
4. Any amendments you already have and want to use.

I will then give you a free soil amendment recommendation in this thread. Unless it is against the TOS??
The normal fee for this service ranges from $30.00 to $100.00. All depends on who you hire.

Trying to help others get on top of using math to calculate there soil mixes. Then get superior results. Generally organic growers are behind the curve and do not follow the latest practices.

People growing in hydro and using water soluble salts use math and do calulations for recipes.
They share recipes based on math. The same math can be applied to organics and soil/soil less.

Yet I see all these mixes that appear to be some frankenstein recipes that are not done based on calculating the inputs used.

Hope that helps you and anyone else reading the thread. Start testing and stop growing blind.

Well, maybe I read this a little late. I went ahead and mixed a cubic foot of soil up, with all my amendments and paid no attention to weight. Then just read this. I could get the soil I just mixed tested or I could mix another cf of what you are calling the base mix. I assume the base mix for what I'm doing is just my 1/3 compost and 1/3 peat, leaving out the other 1/3 of the aeration mix? After that test then I should ammend?

Here is the mix I just made and was planning on testing. Should I add any of the amendments prior to testing, like the rock dust or basalt? This mix was from buildasoil's site, and I added a few things I had laying around that I didn't think could hurt, such as the biochar and azomite. Also, should I let this mix sit for a week or more prior to testing?

1 cf = 7.5 gallons (I'm just eyeballing here)

1cf mixture for testing, prior to full mix.

1/3 compost (2.5 gallons)
1/3 peat (2.5 gallons)
1/3 aeration (2.5 gallons)

1/3 compost:
25% worm castings (0.625 gal)
15% leftover compost from last year (0.375 gal)
60% cold compost (1.5 gal)

1/3 aeration:
50% rice hulls (1.25 gal)
50% perlite/ recycled glass rocks (1.25 gal)

Add (for 1 cf)
1/2 cup kelp
1/2 cup neem cake
1/2 cup crab meal
1/2 cup basalt
1/2 cup glacial rock dust
1/2 cup azomite
1 cup gypsum
1 cup oyster flour
2 cup biochar

 

[Topofthecrop]

I really don't know my way around organics. I've only used FF soil in the past but looks like making my own will require quality compost to keep it live.


Oh ok, I'm sure there's a feed store or two around here, That would help me out if they sell compost. I'll be able to do a lot more hopefully by summer but just a bit limited on space at the moment.

Black gold has a bag of compost for purchase. Maybe your local grow shop has it or can order for you. It's not bad. I use it. Nothing beats fresh home made though.

 

[Underthesun]

Sorry to bombard this thread. But another question. When doing soil tests, these leave out nitrogen on the test. Is testing for N prudent?

 

[leadsled]

Well, maybe I read this a little late. I went ahead and mixed a cubic foot of soil up, with all my amendments and paid no attention to weight. Then just read this. I could get the soil I just mixed tested or I could mix another cf of what you are calling the base mix. I assume the base mix for what I'm doing is just my 1/3 compost and 1/3 peat, leaving out the other 1/3 of the aeration mix? After that test then I should ammend?

Here is the mix I just made and was planning on testing. Should I add any of the amendments prior to testing, like the rock dust or basalt? This mix was from buildasoil's site, and I added a few things I had laying around that I didn't think could hurt, such as the biochar and azomite. Also, should I let this mix sit for a week or more prior to testing?

1 cf = 7.5 gallons (I'm just eyeballing here)

1cf mixture for testing, prior to full mix.

1/3 compost (2.5 gallons)
1/3 peat (2.5 gallons)
1/3 aeration (2.5 gallons)

1/3 compost:
25% worm castings (0.625 gal)
15% leftover compost from last year (0.375 gal)
60% cold compost (1.5 gal)

1/3 aeration:
50% rice hulls (1.25 gal)
50% perlite/ recycled glass rocks (1.25 gal)

Add (for 1 cf)
1/2 cup kelp
1/2 cup neem cake
1/2 cup crab meal
1/2 cup basalt
1/2 cup glacial rock dust
1/2 cup azomite
1 cup gypsum
1 cup oyster flour
2 cup biochar

yes, you can get the soil you mixed tested.
Those amounts of amendment are excessive imho. Also depends on strain environment size of plants etc. indoor outdoor dep etc.

Mix the base and test. pay for recommendation, get amounts, then amend and add aeraton.

Sorry to bombard this thread. But another question. When doing soil tests, these leave out nitrogen on the test. Is testing for N prudent?

You can pay extra and add on nitrogen testing Both chemical and biological testing.
Get the base plus test with solvita c02 respiration.

Regards

 

[stutter]

Look at you guys with all your fancy mixes.

1 bag chicken shit
1 bag cow shit
Compost
Worm castings with worms
1 bale pea straw

Lay down layers 2-3 inches thick of manures and compost separated by layers of pea straw. Top layer compost and castings with worms. Top with more straw mulch.

Then I brew a tea using compost worm castings and forest humus and forest mulch I collect from the local forest and water that in.

I also add bokashi whenever my bin is full.

 

[Soilbrother1]

Look at you guys with all your fancy mixes.

1 bag chicken shit
1 bag cow shit
Compost
Worm castings with worms
1 bale pea straw

Lay down layers 2-3 inches thick of manures and compost separated by layers of pea straw. Top layer compost and castings with worms. Top with more straw mulch.

Then I brew a tea using compost worm castings and forest humus and forest mulch I collect from the local forest and water that in.

I also add bokashi whenever my bin is full.

View attachment 582281

View attachment 582283

View attachment 582284

Lol @ fancy. Beautiful frost you got going on there. Although, I use ROLS with lots of amendments, you are a reminder that sometimes the basics gets it done too. Looks good. There are many other trace elements and minerals that are beneficial as well. Some may call me fancy because I leave classical music on for my ladies, but hey, I would do a rain dance if their was peer reviewed scientific evidence to back up its effectiveness. :)

 

[stutter]

to be honest i just dont have access to all the other stuff. otherwise it would all be in there. for now poop does the trick

 

[keiksweat]

It is said that legumes can fix atmospheric nitrogen, but I believe (can't recall exactly right now) that certain deficient conditions are required for them to do that. I find, with my limited experience, that simply having something growing over the ground confers a benefit. I've played around, and like growing them all because it looks like a small garden, and I can munch on it. I'm going to start including lettuces in my cover crops, and then I'll be able to harvest those micro-greens.

So, babysitters/propagators of soil biology, facilitators and maintenance workers, if you will--that's how I consider my cover crops. I work toward what is called a 'guild' in the permaculture world, and so use as many various plants as I can. My list includes at least two, if not three different types of mustard, fenugreek, cumin, amaranth, clover, California black-eye peas... umm... what else...? I never put any markers, just grabbed stuff and threw it out there. One day I went through the pantry with my granddaughter, even the popcorn sprouted, but I didn't use it as a cover crop. I feel that corn and squash are more demanding of N than cannabis.

Try different stuff, that's what I say, see what happens. Just don't let it get too big or out of hand, and try to return to the soil as much as you can, because that's a form of the nutrients you put in, ya dig? Otherwise, re-amend as you feel is necessary (usually organic matter and some minerals).

I've started using cress,as cover.works lovely.I trim it bk,pick some to eat,leave the cutting to mulch.love trying new stuff.

 

[Kalikush]

Yeah, I was thinking it would be faster too...and I think it can be. I just don't have enough worms yet to speed up the process. Instead of spending a lot of money on lots of worms, a year ago I decided to just buy $40 worth of worms and then grow my population. Over the last year I have probably trippled my worm population and I have enough vermicompost for this years outdoor grow, which would have cost me over $300 I believe. It is extra work, but its fun. I'd say get started, you won't get instant payoff but in the long run I think its worth it.

But I'm thinking to speed up the process, I will use more worms in less space. I have read that this will increase production speed. My plan is to keep growing my worm population and see how many I can get, then I plan on building up my soil all over my property.

Good job on the worm population increase, I might try your idea to use more in a smaller space once I can get going. I'm hoping to get things started soon here but might just go store bought for the first run. I'll see if I can find Malibu Compost, maybe some Happy Frog and hopefully have some 'cooked' organic soil ready to go when I transplant. Sounds like a good savings once everything is rolling.

 

[Kalikush]

Black gold has a bag of compost for purchase. Maybe your local grow shop has it or can order for you. It's not bad. I use it. Nothing beats fresh home made though.

I'll have a look for this compost too but heard Malibu is good too. Can you just substitute this black gold or Malibu in for compost when they say to use:

1/3 peat
1/3 compost
1/3 aeration

I've also read once you add amendments, the soil should cook for at least 4-5 weeks, can I cook this in a Rubbermaid trash can, possibly covered to prevent bugs from getting in?

 

[Underthesun]

Someone else could probably chime in with a better answer. I have never used malibu but have heard of it, same with black gold, I have heard they make decent products but have never used them. That 1/3 compost could be a combination of different types of compost, and that may be your best bet to get a wide range of microbes/bacteria in your soil since you don't have your own homemade stuff currenlty. The shotgun approach. Worm castings are expensive but you can just use what you can afford. Craigslist is a good place to find compost, worm castings and manure. Also, if you just want to buy some bulk compost for cheap, like $60 a yard check your local landscape supply stores.

Cooking up your soil depends on what type of amendments you plan on using. I don't worry about bugs, I grow outside, bugs are part of the system.

 

[Topofthecrop]

Black gold soil is kinda awesome. I love it. It's very basic stuff. Not filled with a ton of products. Probably the best in my opinion seed starter. But @waayne uses it maybe he could chime in on the quality of compost they sell too.

 

[Topofthecrop]

I'll have a look for this compost too but heard Malibu is good too. Can you just substitute this black gold or Malibu in for compost when they say to use:

1/3 peat
1/3 compost
1/3 aeration

I've also read once you add amendments, the soil should cook for at least 4-5 weeks, can I cook this in a Rubbermaid trash can, possibly covered to prevent bugs from getting in?

You could totally sub the black gold compost.

 

[BudBogart]

Look at you guys with all your fancy mixes.

1 bag chicken shit
1 bag cow shit
Compost
Worm castings with worms
1 bale pea straw

Lay down layers 2-3 inches thick of manures and compost separated by layers of pea straw. Top layer compost and castings with worms. Top with more straw mulch.

Then I brew a tea using compost worm castings and forest humus and forest mulch I collect from the local forest and water that in.

I also add bokashi whenever my bin is full.

View attachment 582281

View attachment 582283

View attachment 582284

I love collecting matter in various stages of decomp from the forest we live in. I add molasses and water from a fresh underground source that fills a small pond on the property. I have no idea if it helps but I like to believe it's all teeming with the beneficial microbes local to our soil.

 

[Kalikush]

Someone else could probably chime in with a better answer. I have never used malibu but have heard of it, same with black gold, I have heard they make decent products but have never used them. That 1/3 compost could be a combination of different types of compost, and that may be your best bet to get a wide range of microbes/bacteria in your soil since you don't have your own homemade stuff currenlty. The shotgun approach. Worm castings are expensive but you can just use what you can afford. Craigslist is a good place to find compost, worm castings and manure. Also, if you just want to buy some bulk compost for cheap, like $60 a yard check your local landscape supply stores.

Cooking up your soil depends on what type of amendments you plan on using. I don't worry about bugs, I grow outside, bugs are part of the system.

Ok thanks, maybe I'll buy a bag of black gold and Malibu compost and do half and half with some worm castings for my 1/3 compost.

As for amendments, I will be as diverse as I can, with a similar list to what you post e on the last page. There are a couple items in not familiar with so I will look those up but I'm thinking with all of those amendments, it's best to cook?

I'll be indoors so if I can avoid bringing bugs in, I would like to do so.

You could totally sub the black gold compost.

I was looking for a seed starter so just use basic black gold for that and their compost for the 'real' soil?

 

[Topofthecrop]

Ok thanks, maybe I'll buy a bag of black gold and Malibu compost and do half and half with some worm castings for my 1/3 compost.

As for amendments, I will be as diverse as I can, with a similar list to what you post e on the last page. There are a couple items in not familiar with so I will look those up but I'm thinking with all of those amendments, it's best to cook?

I'll be indoors so if I can avoid bringing bugs in, I would like to do so.



I was looking for a seed starter so just use basic black gold for that and their compost for the 'real' soil?

Yeah. Seed starter or straight up as regular soil. I believe all black gold has in the soil is EWC and perlite. As for nutrients goes. I've used it multiple times. If your gonna build a soil up its awesome for that. Great base. If some one is using liquid nutrients it's a great basic soil to start with as well.
Using it as is with just compost I would suggest adding a few more amendments to make it more all around complete.

 

[Kalikush]

Yeah. Seed starter or straight up as regular soil. I believe all black gold has in the soil is EWC and perlite. As for nutrients goes. I've used it multiple times. If your gonna build a soil up its awesome for that. Great base. If some one is using liquid nutrients it's a great basic soil to start with as well.
Using it as is with just compost I would suggest adding a few more amendments to make it more all around complete.

I was set on pro mix, I know it has myco something fungus/bacteria I believe but this seems like a good option too. I'm sure I can add the fungus/bacteria on my own but this sounds like a good base too. I haven't seen it at Home Depot or Lowes but maybe it's been out of my view there.

 

[Topofthecrop]

I was set on pro mix, I know it has myco something fungus/bacteria I believe but this seems like a good option too. I'm sure I can add the fungus/bacteria on my own but this sounds like a good base too. I haven't seen it at Home Depot or Lowes but maybe it's been out of my view there.

You can add bennies (beneficial organism) later. You actually should be adding them on a normal basis anyways. Also feeding them through out the process. Check out "caps packs" they are the best. Others exist as well. Home Depot and lowes probably doesn't have black gold but don't quote me on that. Although nothing wrong with pro-mix.

 

[Panacea79]

Some very spiffy blends there folks! Nice.

My first grow I used nothing but Happy Frog soil in 5 gallon buckets, a few doses of General Organics Bloom in the flower stage and GO Ca/mg. Nothing more. Great Soil and natural sun, baby....and good genetic beans.

For next year I'll get fancy with Root Organics soil as a base and some other goodies (worm castings and other organic (clean) nutes)

Nice lookin plants you have there!
Glad to hear that Happy Frog has worked for you. I'm trying to slowly trend over to a more 'living soil/organic' approach. It's funny cuz i used FFOF on my first few grows (I do mainly indoor autos. Space/time constraints) and FF's Soil Trio for grow and bloom then started adding a lot of Advanced Nutes 'bloom boosters', etc...fast forward about 3 or 4 grows and a buddy of mine on the forums here turned me on to Roots XXL Soil....AMAZING STUFF I'm using that now with General Organics GO Box and still a few of AN's stuff (mainly VooDoo Juice, Nirvana and Bud Factor)...growing two Auto Northern Lights from Vision Seeds and they LOVE that Roots Soil!!! If I could suggest one thing when using the Roots XXL it'd be to add in some peat, EWC or some kind of clay like soil as although the Roots is incredibly aerated and it lives up to its name ( the roots LOVE THIS STUFF) I DO feel like it has some trouble retaining water...good luck. Keep em green and growin

 

[Kalikush]

You can add bennies (beneficial organism) later. You actually should be adding them on a normal basis anyways. Also feeding them through out the process. Check out "caps packs" they are the best. Others exist as well. Home Depot and lowes probably doesn't have black gold but don't quote me on that. Although nothing wrong with pro-mix.

The caps packs look awesome but they seem really expensive. I'm sure a little goes a long ways but I can see going through the 4oz container quickly with new soil and a few compost teas. So far, going organic has seemed relatively inexpensive but this could be a bigger ongoing expense :-/

And I didn't see Black Gold at HD or Lowes, but Ace had the BG garden compost and I think seed starter mix too.