Post your Organic Soil Mix

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goingtoguano

goingtoguano

I run a close recipe to that of The Rev and would make a few changes. I would add some dolomite lime and use more kelp, greensand, blood-meal, alfalfa, and feathermeal. I would use less DE, granular humic acid, and langbeinite (that stuff is pretty strong).
That is also a lot of all purpose fertilizer added in but may not be that bad if it breaks down slow enough.
Just my $.02.

You definitely want to put it all together and let it cook.
 
savagemonk

savagemonk

Good point. I must admit, I bought the smaller packages to try first and for the containers as I find them more manageable and less dusty than the 10kg paper bags (which I bought for 444 and bloom).

I didn't follow the Gaia Green reqs, im roughly following the REVs living soil recipe and tried to match ingredients I exchanged at same micronutrient and npk levels. I have no knowledge of release times, so I'm kinda going on faith and trust from the internet...we know that always ends well! lol

I still am having problems wrapping my head around adding 1 to 4 tablespoons per gallon of all these minerals and nutrients. It just seems like so much. 😄

Anyway, so you think im close to on point with my TOTAL recipe amounts or should I be mixing all of the dry amendments, then blending THAT at 3 tablespoons per gallon?
So far I’ve covered pages 1-10 of this thread and it seems everyone has small variations but organic soil recipes are similar. Especially when it some to EWC, peat, coco, perlite, etc. Some use what they got for Calcium. There are several sources for that. Likewise the NPK can be sourced from an all purpose fertilizer like Gaia’s 444 or varying sources like insect frass, alfalfa, kelp.
Write down your recipe and note the soil pH before planting. See how the plant likes it and adjust for next run.
I made 5 gal mixes for autos and a photoperiod. Wrote the recipe down so I know what to increase or decrease for next run.
 
mancorn

mancorn

I still am having problems wrapping my head around adding 1 to 4 tablespoons per gallon of all these minerals and nutrients. It just seems like so much. 😄

Anyway, so you think im close to on point with my TOTAL recipe amounts or should I be mixing all of the dry amendments, then blending THAT at 3 tablespoons per gallon?
You’ll need a big spreed sheet, but here’s a easy explanation on mixing your dry amendments. https://oaksterdamuniversity.com/combining-n-p-k-ratios/
 
TheForechecker

TheForechecker

I run a close recipe to that of The Rev and would make a few changes. I would add some dolomite lime and use more kelp, greensand, blood-meal, alfalfa, and feathermeal. I would use less DE, granular humic acid, and langbeinite (that stuff is pretty strong).
That is also a lot of all purpose fertilizer added in but may not be that bad if it breaks down slow enough.
Just my $.02.

You definitely want to put it all together and let it cook.
Thanks, I appreciate your guidance. Im taking your suggestions and going for it.

You’ll need a big spreed sheet, but here’s a easy explanation on mixing your dry amendments. https://oaksterdamuniversity.com/combining-n-p-k-ratios/
Nice.
/taps excel guru wife on the shoulder.

Thinking maybe Im going to add the mycos (should be growing that stuff by the gram!) when its done cooking a bit (a week or 2 before planting), but do the cool kids generally add EWC now and let it cook, or with the mycos? or both?

Cheers!
 
goingtoguano

goingtoguano

Definitely add the EWC now and let it cook. That where your microbes come from. I don’t bother with the mycos until I am planting and then either sprinkle some granular in the hole if transplanting or some soluble myco soil drench or both. I have read where the mycos need roots right away or they die or something but idk. You see it advertised in soil so ?

I was thinking earlier, if you ever get concerned that your soil is too hot, you can always cut it with some bagged soil afterwards.
 
IndicaMaster123

IndicaMaster123

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hey guys new to the thread! ive been reading pages 1-20 and im just wondering if and how much the recipes have changed
cheers
-N
 
PiffinOut

PiffinOut

figured this is a semi generic thread so if i shouldnt have posted this here my apologies.
ive got a bag of Timberline Top Soil in my yard. I was considering putting it into my vermicompost but upon reading some of the shiet reviews on Lowes.com and the like, I am reconsidering using it as anything but spot filler or a top dress upon planting my veggies.
Figured Id get the input from the squad first.

So this topsoil has alot of bark and wood and sand in it and really isnt all soil but a mix of organic material with soil. I figure the bark and wood and sand arent a big problem in a vermicompost as the worms will probably eat through the bark and wood over time. I will be using the vermicompost for growing veggies and cough cough...."flower" come spring or summer. Hopefully by then most of this stuff will be broken down by the 2000+worms I have in the bin.
My questions are thus... i know this soil is shit as is currently. But I can see my worms working on it overtime making it more usuable. However, I cant find any test results on it for toxins and heavy metals. The Timberline TopSoil claims to be material taken from a forrest. Can anyone inform/shoot me a link for the test results of this soils test results. Do you guys think this will turn into something good enough after composting with my food scraps in my vermicompost? Should I just dig a hole in my yard and use regular dirt as vermicompost filler or is this Timberline TopSoil acceptable enough?

Most of the food scraps in the vermicompost are greens and fruits and veggies. I would imagine that the bark and wood material would be decent enough as a carbon material to aid in the composting process with those greens fruits and veggies and once it all breaks down and fades to black that it would be worthy of putting in my vegetable garden and possibly my grow tent..

Thoughts?
 
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