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Post Your UC Problems Here!

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Post Your UC Problems Here!

jimmyhoffa59 333 Replies 55,734 Views
Page 10 of 17 · Replies 181–200 of 334
#181
UCMENOW said:
The fungi colonizes in the the root crown area and at the base of the net pot....especially the mycorrhizals that actually live both within and through the roots themselves. The fungi has a very hard time colonizing the solution itself....that zone is generally dominated by the bacteria.

Its really helpful to keep the bacterial food sources at a minimum to help keep the bacteria from overwhelming the system.....this is usually when pH fluctuations begin.
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So would it be pointless to crown feed with Roots Excelurator and Great White if you used Zone in your buckets? Also, would you just ditch the Zone and use AquaShield instead? :wondering
 
#182
I know this sounds dumb but can someone tell me precisely how I "crown feed" the great white to the plants in my UC system.. I was just mixing the shit in a one gallon jug and pouring some onto the top of the hydroton around the stem....Not sure if that is right.
 
#183
yep thats basically it - though somebody recommended that you should use a sprayer and mist the rocks thoroughly
 
#184
deacon1503 said:
What about adding bags (pump bags) zip tied full of hydroton, dyna-rok, or pea gravel for the bennies to colonize? They could be placed under the diffuser in the epi. It would be just like a brand new fish tank having to reach some sort of homestasis when bacteria boosters are used before fish are added. The good bacteria, the beneficial, in the fish tank help maintain order in the tank, preventing additional foreign bacterial intruders and id rather have good then bad. Same in my UC.
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not a bad idea, but they would have to be over the diffuser, because they needs lots of healthy oxygen.

I was actually thinking of trying bio balls or adding some kind of non-leaching packaging peanuts for the return line to flow over on each side, suspended in the air of course, similar to a bio-filter in aquariums.
 
#185
jimmyhoffa59 said:
Nice info guys.. I gotta be honest.. while your medical journal insight is great for looking smart I think I, along with the rest of the community in here, would love if everything was to the point and in laymen terms. I already graduated from college, I just wanna grasp the to the point info instead of getting the ENTIRE genetic engineers notes on the reason they formulated a new product. So point being.. I gather some like a sterile system but you can open yourself to "SUPER BUGS" or some people like live systems with protective myco systems protecting the roots. Got it!... I just want my plants to grow good without issues.. I will not run a completely sterile system.. too many benefits with other stuff which is much more natural in sense.
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Let me start by apologizing for over complicating things, my intentions were simply to provide information for anyone who was interested.

So here is a simple analogy:

Brown bugs will only eat organic matter.
Red bugs will only eat sugars.
Blue bugs will only eat nitrogen.
Yellow bugs will only eat brown bugs.
Green bugs will only eat red bugs.
Purple bugs will only eat blue bugs.

In turn each bug shits out something another bug will eat or something the plant can use, stuff even science doesn't grasp yet.

If there is only Brown bugs, Green bugs and purple bugs the bugs will die from starvation or over-run an environment due to the fact there are no predators/food.

The key point I am trying to make is there needs to be a DIVERSE population of bugs so that a balance is maintained.

FJ
 
#186
lmao FJ - I read it all

the evelyn woods speed reading way
 
#187
:giggle I'll take all the info I can get, scientific, laymens terms, whatever... I'm a smart ass Stoner that aced AP Bio with a 5, but I can still get jiggy wid it... :cool0010:
 
#188
Brown slime algae is easy to address and cure in a DWC with a microbe tea. I would post my recipe but Farmer Jon has already posted it word for word a few pages back. You can refer to his post for my instructions.

Forget constant sterilization. Breed active bennies for 2 days, sterilize the roots/bucket one final time, make a fresh res with no nutes, and add active bennies(1 cup per gallon of res). Wait 12-24 hours and add nutes. Add 1 cup tea every three days.

No organic material in the res
1 wt air pump per gallon of res
no light leaks

You can use any sort of microbe product for the tea (except AN products) just make sure they contain bacillis and trichoderma. Feed the bennies in the tea, never in the res.
 
#189
This thread is pumpin out some great info thanks for startin it Jimmy! As far as ph swings and aquarium supplies Coral seams to work very well to balance ph! I put about 2 1/2 cups of coral in aprox 80 gallon rez ( 6 18 gallon totes DIY UC ) and ph sits at 6 all the time! and seams to have no ill effect! The only bennies I'm using is Sensisym and roots excel.

lol not sure what color of bugs they are though!
 
#191
Bioballs work best, but so do plant roots

deacon1503 said:
What about adding bags (pump bags) zip tied full of hydroton, dyna-rok, or pea gravel for the bennies to colonize? They could be placed under the diffuser in the epi. It would be just like a brand new fish tank having to reach some sort of homestasis when bacteria boosters are used before fish are added. The good bacteria, the beneficial, in the fish tank help maintain order in the tank, preventing additional foreign bacterial intruders and id rather have good then bad. Same in my UC.
Click to expand...

Good point Deacon.

Shady....ditch zone and use Aquashield, save the zone for disinfection and emergency reboots. The zone efficiency will wear off so crown feed away my brother.

Mr. Good Cat, skip the enzymes as the bennie bacteria will produce that for you.
 
#192
UCMENOW said:
Good point Deacon.

Shady....ditch zone and use Aquashield, save the zone for disinfection and emergency reboots. The zone efficiency will wear off so crown feed away my brother.

Mr. Good Cat, skip the enzymes as the bennie bacteria will produce that for you.
Click to expand...

so one could feed with:

a+b
RE
aquashield (i take it this is the most common liquid benny product?)
Myco (great white/white widow)

crown feed only the myco (how often?), or just add straight to epi weekly?

would this combo be the most beneficial (pun) ?

no need for any zymes at all? better to run aquashield alone than with zymes with it as well as myco?
 
#193
Great thread guys, my favorite on the site right now - appreciate all the awesome info, even for people like me who don't run a UC.

Had a question about bennies - if crown feeding (and running a sterile "undercarriage"?), does there need to be media for them to attach to? Or can a spray right on the stem (trickling down the roots, hopefully) suffice?

Asking because all I have is neoprene inserts and netpots, no media..........so would bennies have nowhere to colonize because there's no rocks in my netpots?

Thanks again.
 
#194
Heisenbergs said:
Brown slime algae is easy to address and cure in a DWC with a microbe tea. I would post my recipe but Farmer Jon has already posted it word for word a few pages back. You can refer to his post for my instructions.

Forget constant sterilization. Breed active bennies for 2 days, sterilize the roots/bucket one final time, make a fresh res with no nutes, and add active bennies(1 cup per gallon of res). Wait 12-24 hours and add nutes. Add 1 cup tea every three days.

No organic material in the res
1 wt air pump per gallon of res
no light leaks

You can use any sort of microbe product for the tea (except AN products) just make sure they contain bacillis and trichoderma. Feed the bennies in the tea, never in the res.
Click to expand...

I apologize for not giving you credit for the great information and tea recipe.
I thought you name was under the title when I pasted the info.
Your name has been added to my original post and again I thank you.
:handshake
On a side note, I hope you will hang around the farm a bit and allow us to pick your brain.
FJ
 
#195
Farmer Jon said:
I apologize for not giving you credit for the great information and tea recipe.
I thought you name was under the title when I pasted the info.
Your name has been added to my original post and again I thank you.
:handshake
On a side note, I hope you will hang around the farm a bit and allow us to pick your brain.
FJ
Click to expand...

No worries. The important thing is that the slime is purged from as many dwc grows as possible. Feel free to ask whatever you like. I have a years experience fighting the slime, and now a years experience growing with it successfully gone. The slime is the only thing which I hold a grudge against.
 
#196
Yes lots of info.. Anyone message Papa to ask if he could kindly sticky this to the UC section and relabel it "Post your UC problems here"
 
#197
So are you saying I should mix the greatwhite in a rez for two days.. then add my nutes and put into the epi??? Sorry I am sorta the slow child.. been eating too many of these sandwiches..

http://i757.invalid.com/albums/xx217/cabbageboy/retard-sandwiches-demotivational-poster-1213751559.jpg
 
#199
Heisenbergs said:
No worries. The important thing is that the slime is purged from as many dwc grows as possible. Feel free to ask whatever you like. I have a years experience fighting the slime, and now a years experience growing with it successfully gone. The slime is the only thing which I hold a grudge against.
Click to expand...


welcome to the farm - I got a lot of good info from your post that FJ put up here - still on the fence about a lot of this UC stuff (its alot to process) and Im gonna finish out my current run as is (sterile)

hoep you stick around and make yourself at home

cheers
 
#200
My biggest problem with the UC is getting buds so large their stems bend and plants fall over. Plz help!
 
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