Powder Mildew

[Seamaiden]

While I am no friend of E20, there is a version that is used for consumable produce. The real problem that I see, that I've written about (have a thread here on it that comes up via Google) is the issue of resistance to single site mode of action products, along with the allegedly 'inert' ingredients included in the myclobutanil mix. Myclobutanol? Shit. In any event, lots of people are using E20 as their sole treatment program, and that, I guarantee, IS going to lead to more resistant PM.

I know nothing about Zero Tolerance, if it's something that can be used in organic production, then that's much better in my world.

 

[Reebs]

While I am no friend of E20

i hear that man!


careful with this stuff man, it's strong! wait at least a wk an a half before you spray again.

i used to use these harsh sprays but eventually moved away from them. honestly i' never saw E20 REALLY do it's job and supposedly it's stays in the plant for 45 days after spray..

my advice, get PM wash and Power wash, not only do plants love PM wash, it works if you do PM wash then 2 days later Power wash, then 3 days later PM wash again.

i do this even without PM, i kid you not every time i've sprayed PM wash, my plants love that shit the next day, also there is no need to spray with lights OFF with PM was aswell.

 

[woodsmaneh]

I take the time to understand what I put into my products and in general there is a product out there that will do the job without worrying about how you apply or when and the residuals ect. But my fellow smokers what we do not know is what happens to these products when they are burnt, what do they turn into, have a look at some of the MSDS sheets and look at the warnings for when the stuff is burned, if the warnings don't make you think then I hope you never need to use any of them.

If you're a dope dealer move on I get it, but if your not give serious thought to what I have posted, I supply meds to people and help them manage their gardens, a person with HIV can not tolerate any chems in their meds ZERO. Having any chems can cause reactions from rash to sickness in some people who are fighting for their lives, I want no part of that. So I'll use milk and water till the cows come home to kill my PM and skip the quick fix.

Peace

 

[Reebs]

I take the time to understand what I put into my products and in general there is a product out there that will do the job without worrying about how you apply or when and the residuals ect. But my fellow smokers what we do not know is what happens to these products when they are burnt, what do they turn into, have a look at some of the MSDS sheets and look at the warnings for when the stuff is burned, if the warnings don't make you think then I hope you never need to use any of them.

If you're a dope dealer move on I get it, but if your not give serious thought to what I have posted, I supply meds to people and help them manage their gardens, a person with HIV can not tolerate any chems in their meds ZERO. Having any chems can cause reactions from rash to sickness in some people who are fighting for their lives, I want no part of that. So I'll use milk and water till the cows come home to kill my PM and skip the quick fix.

Peace

For sure, i respect that. and i agree. the biggest thing for me was that being that i use flood trays and sometime i dno't get the whole top of the tray covered, there is room for the sprays to run off into the tray therfore mixing into the res and root rot at this point never fails.

from the info i gathered on PM and power Wash, before i tried it out, Mighty wash and PM wash are the result of an electric charge seperating water into 2 parts, a soapy like water (Mighty wash) and a clear acidic water (PM wash). so if anything your pretty much spraying water.

they best part about these products, you can use it at ANY point, when i am taking clones, i have a cup of mighty wash and a cup of PM wash, i take my cut dip in the mighty then in the PM and place in cloner or Plug. it's not harmful at all, or at least i haven't noticed any type of problem from them.

 

[Organica]

This is slightly off topic but, this PM keeps coming back it seems impossible to eradicate. How do I get the shit out of my AC units?? Do they need to be pitched and get new ones, or would taking the fucking thing apart and cleaning every inch work?? Real pain in the ass for quite some time now. And how many of you guys are using a sulfur burner??

 

[buddahslave]

This is slightly off topic but, this PM keeps coming back it seems impossible to eradicate. How do I get the shit out of my AC units?? Do they need to be pitched and get new ones, or would taking the fucking thing apart and cleaning every inch work?? Real pain in the ass for quite some time now. And how many of you guys are using a sulfur burner??

https://www.thcfarmer.com/community/threads/filthy-a-c-filter.57301/

 

[buddahslave]

They sell a spray that I bought that you can clean your A/C filter and coils with. Also check you air intake that is coming from outside, if there is a tree or plant that has pm on it the spores will get sucked into the intake. It was suggested by waayne to try Banner Maxx because it was systemic and I did and the PM never returned. I bought it of ebay for $40 the generic brand which is called honor gaurd. I highly recommend this product as I have seen it work first hand. I bought the sulfur set up but never got to use it or the eagle 20 I bought. I think a combination of banner maxx and sulfur burner will eradicate your problem for good. Understand that some forms of PM are systemically embedded in the plant and will appear once the plant has been stressed! So at the minimum find a spay that will attack the pm systemically like banner maxx. I hope this helps you:cigar:

 

[Organica]

Thanks Buddahslave, None of the plants are stressed. Room is dialed in, and plants are coming out better than ever, They all look great, except for two chocolate heavens that were full of PM and a Euphoria that was absolutely wrecked. Ill get the products you mentioned, also is there a specific brand of sulfur burner that is superior or are they all the same.

 

[buddahslave]

Thanks Buddahslave, None of the plants are stressed. Room is dialed in, and plants are coming out better than ever, They all look great, except for two chocolate heavens that were full of PM and a Euphoria that was absolutely wrecked. Ill get the products you mentioned, also is there a specific brand of sulfur burner that is superior or are they all the same.

I don't know what brand I have, I never got to use it. It's sitting in a corner somewhere if I locate it I will post the info.

 

[ZombieSlave]

 

[Seamaiden]

Ayup! Did that a few years ago before I ever saw Jorge's video, used Oxidate or something like that, IIRC. (I can't remember what I used, to be perfectly honest. One dip was with Greencure and those buds ended up tasting like soap to me.)

 

[Moe Lasses]

sulphur?, h2o2? eagle? milk? GROSS!!!

ive grown in the NW rainforest surrounded by PM for 14 years. it's right outside my door right now. ive only had pm in the garden once...that shit sucks!! i think environment is everything. a happy garden is a healthy garden. i would never spray anything on a plant after 10 days flowering. sulphur on the outside of bud tastes gross.

that being said...because pm is everywhere and so gnarly,

i treat every new plant in my garden with spectracide immunox. its a 40 day systemic, and costs like 7$ at the box stores. i spray once when new genetics arrive and again in the first week of flower then forget about it.

 

[Seamaiden]

Seriously? Hydrogen peroxide grosses you out? I get the milk, but it's proven and it feeds the plant and soil, too, especially if you use raw milk. :)

 

[Moe Lasses]

Seriously? Hydrogen peroxide grosses you out? I get the milk, but it's proven and it feeds the plant and soil, too, especially if you use raw milk. :)

umm, milk is for cereal...h202 is for ouchies;)

seriously though, nothing but kief on my flowers!!

 

[Seamaiden]

Milk can be good for so much more than just your cereal. <sigh> It's also a proven Tx for powdery mildew. As is/are peroxides.

 

[Moe Lasses]

you're right of course!!

i personally don't want to "treat" pm. i don't want to see it in my room. ever.

 

[buddahslave]

That was a great fucking video:cigar:

 

[Organica]

Jorge Cervantes, He always reminded me of Mr Rogers, or the Mr Rogers of weed I guess, When I first herd his voice in the beginning of the vid I was ready to hear morning neighbors lol.

Great vid by the way.

 

[woodsmaneh]

Here is a good article that is insightful and helpful. it covers all the basic's and many different ways to deal with this problem. I took the liberty of hi-lighting the HEAT section as this is a great way to kill it off.


Courtesy of Urban Garden

How to Beat Powdery Mildew

BY URBAN GARDEN MAGAZINE ⋅ AUGUST 6, 2009 ⋅



If there’s one grower’s gripe we hear lots about at Urban Garden HQ it’s Powdery Mildew. So we asked our heavyweight in the pest control department, Zorro Torro, to lend some expert advice on what this nasty stuff is, what damage it causes your plants, and, most importantly, how to beat the crap out of it!

You’ll know powdery mildew has paid your plants a visit when it looks lot like confectioners’ sugar has been sprinkled on the plant leaves. At first it may be hard to spot as it might appear on just a small portion of the leaf appearing as an irregular circle. But it quickly spreads and soon appears on the surrounding vegetation. Soon the entire leaf is covered and at the same time colonies develop on the surrounding vegetation and in other areas of the garden.

So how does it all start? Well, the plant becomes infected when an airborne spore, or conidia, lands on a leaf and germinates. It soon grows a guide tube that attaches tightly to the leaf. Then it pierces the plant cell wall and membrane and inserts a hollow tube that sucks up plant nutrients, weakening the leaf and slowing growth. Within a week the fungus produces tiny mushroom stalks that release millions of spores, ready to infect more leaf surfaces. The fungus also produces a secondary spore, which over-winters outdoors and may also hide in a greenhouse or indoor garden even after the crop has been harvested.

Powdery mildew is most likely to attack the young leaves, up to two or three weeks old.

A dozen or so different fungus fall under the heading of Powdery Mildew, but two different fungus species are the most likely culprits. L. taurica, tends to attack warmer gardens. It prefers a temperature of about 77 °F (25 °C). S. macularisprefers a cooler temperature; however, the more virulent stain found in indoor gardens today has adapted to tolerate more heat. Both strains thrive in moderate humidity and are not injured by water. Their conidia can live in water for short periods and are mobile in it. However, strong water sprays do destroy some conidia.

CULTURAL CONTROL

Heat

Powdery mildew is sensitive to heat. Neither species will grow at 90 °F (32 °C). and will quickly perish when above 100 ° F (38 °C).

To get a complete kill maintain the temperature for an hour. This may not be a feasible option in most indoor gardens for several reasons. The first is that it may be difficult to heat the space to such a high temperature. The second is that even a single peak of 100 ° F (38 °C) affects the growth of plants. Vegetative plants with flowers or fruits in mid stage growth (weeks 3-7) may stretch a little from the experience. The heat treatment has relatively little effect on first and second week flowers or flowers nearing maturity.

You can minimize heat’s impact on plants in several ways. Heat the garden at the end of the day, as the lights are turned off. Since the plants are not photosynthesizing, they have lower water needs.

If the plants are being grown hydroponically, lower the temperature of the water to 60 degrees. Keeping the roots cool will help the upper plant parts beat the heat. It’s not difficult to do this, even if you don’t have a water chiller. Just add ice to the reservoir or flow through system. Roots of plants growing in soil can also be cooled using thermal ice packs at the base of the stem.

The heat treatment should kill off most of the fungus and its spores. The chances are there will still be some fungal re-growth. These can be eliminated using spot treatments.

Pruning

If one particular plant seems to be infected with a few tiny white spots on a few of its leaves, get a bag large enough to drop the leaves into and then cut them off into the bag. Remove the bag from the room. This prevents spores, the white powder on top of the leaves, from becoming airborne while being removed. Remember to wash your hands and clean the scissors or knife with soap and water, hydrogen peroxide, alcohol or bleach. Spray the plant with one of the sprays listed below after pruning to prevent re-infection and encourage healing.

If, you notice a re-infection a few days later, there is a good chance that this plant is very susceptible to powdery mildew and presents a good location for the infection to start and spread from. The plant should be removed immediately by placing a bag over it and removing it from the space. Then the space should be sprayed with one of the sprays listed below.

ORGANIC and IPM CONTROL

Here are some sprays that you can use to control the powdery mildew in your crop. All of these are safe to use for herb or for edible crops. Sprays are washed away by water, including rain.

Cinnamon Oil and Tea

Cinnamon is an effective destroyer of powdery mildew, with an effectiveness rate of 50-70%. It won’t kill it completely but it will keep it in check somewhat. It also potentiates other suppressive sprays so it is good to use in combination. To make your own, boil water, turn off the heat and add one ounce of ground cinnamon to one and a half pints water. Let the tea cool to room temperature. Add half a pint of 100 proof grain alcohol or rubbing alcohol and let sit. Strain the cinnamon. The spray is ready to use. A faster method is to add 2 teaspoons cinnamon oil to one pint of water and a dash of castile soap. Other herbs are also fungicidal. Clove, rosemary, and wintergreen oils are used in some botanical fungicides. The solution should consist of no more than 2% oil.

Garlic

Garlic is antifungal and anti-bacterial and has several pathways for destroying fungi including its high sulfur content. It can also be added to other anti-fungal sprays. Several garlic sprays are available commercially.

A homemade formula: Soak three ounces of crushed garlic in one ounce of neem or sesame oil and 100 proof or higher drinking alcohol or 70% or higher rubbing alcohol for a day or two. Strain. Then soak the garlic in a cup of water for a day. Strain. Mix the oil/alcohol, soaked water and 1 tablespoon liquid castile soap in a gallon container. Then fill with water and shake. The formula is ready to use.

A simpler brew consists of a teaspoon of garlic oil in a pint of water. To keep the oil and water mixed add a 1/8teaspoon of soap. Use garlic as a vaccination. Spray on new growth before there is a sign of infection.

Garlic is a general purpose insecticide as well as fungicide, so it should be used with caution on outdoor plants. It kills beneficial insects as well as plant pests.

Hydrogen Peroxide

Hydrogen peroxide (hp) is a contact fungicide that leaves no residue. It is an oxidized product of water and has an extra oxygen atom that is slightly negatively charged. When it comes in contact with the fungi the oxygen atoms attach to molecules on the cell walls, oxidizing or “burning” them.

Household hp sold in drug stores has a concentration of 3%. Garden shops sell 10% hp. Zerotol® contains 27% hydrogen peroxide and an unstated amount of peroxyacetic acid. Together they have a more potent chemistry than hp, with an activity of about 40% hp. It is considered hazardous because it can cause skin burn similar to that caused by concentrated acids.

To treat plants with drug store grade 3% hp use 4 1/2 tablespoons and fill to make a pint of solution, or a quart of hp to 3 quarts of water. With horticultural grade 10% hp use about 4 teaspoons per pint, 5 ounces per gallon. With Zerotol® use about 1 teaspoon per pint, 2 1/2 tablespoons per gallon.



.com/2009/08/how-to-beat-powdery-mildew-in-hydroponics/

 

[woodsmaneh]

Part 2


Limonene

Limonene is refined from the oil of citrus rinds. It has a pleasant citrus odor and is the active ingredient in many of the new cleaning products. It also has fungicidal qualities. I’ve used pure diluted limonene and it controlled powdery mildew, but did not eradicate it. Perhaps a higher concentration would have been more successful. Start using 0.5-1% limonene in water 1/2-1 teaspoon per pint.

Milk

Milk kills powdery mildew so well that both home and commercial rose growers all over the world have adopted it for their fungicidal sprays. Use one part milk to nine parts water. I’ve only used 1% milk, but other recipes call for either whole or skim milk and use up to 1 part in 5 milk. Some recipes add garlic or cinnamon to the mix. When using more than 30% milk, a benign mold is reported to grow on top of the leaves. Use a milk spray at the first sign of infection then protect the new growth weekly.

Messenger®

Messenger’s active ingredient is a naturally occurring protein called harpin that stimulates the plant’s own natural defense system. It has been proven to promote more vigorous hardier plants that are more resistant to disease and have increased yields. It is used to prevent infection and decrease its virulence

Neem Oil

Neem oil is pressed from the seed of the neem tree (Azadirachta indica), native to Southeast Asia, but now cultivated worldwide. Neem oil has low mammalian toxicity. It degrades rapidly once it is applied so it is safe for the environment including non-target species and beneficial insects.

Neem oil protects plants with its fungicidal properties: it disrupts the organism’s metabolism on contact, forms a barrier between the plant and the invading fungus, and it inhibits spore germination. It has translinear action, that is, it is absorbed by the leaf and moves around using the leaf’s circulatory system – it can also be used as a systemic. When it is applied to the irrigation water it is absorbed by the roots and delivered throughout the plant. Adding a 0.5% solution, about 1 teaspoon per quart, to the irrigation water will protect the plant from infection.

Neem oil is best used before the plant or the garden exhibits a major infection. By using it before powdery mildew appears, it prevents the spores from germinating. It should not be used on buds or flowers.

Oil Spray

Growers have used different oil sprays to prevent and cure fungal infections. Until recently most horticultural oil sprays were made from petroleum distillates. However, most organic growers have switched to using botanical oils. Aside from the safety factor botanicals such as cottonseed, jojoba, neem and sesame oils have fungicidal properties. They can be used in combination with other spray ingredients listed here. The oils are mixed at about 1-2% concentrations. A 1% solution is about a teaspoon per pint or 3 tablespoons per gallon. Add castile soap to help the ingredients mix. Oil sprays should only be used on the leaves, not the buds or flowers. Use weekly on new growth.

pH Up

pH-Up is a generic term for alkaline pH adjustors, used to increase water pH in indoor gardens. They come as either a powder or liquid. Its active ingredient is usually lye (KOH) or potash (K2CO3).

Fungi require an acidic environment to grow and die in alkaline environments. Changing the leaf surface environment from acidic to alkaline clears up the infection. An alkaline solution with a pH of 8 will make the environment inhospitable for the fungus and will stop its growth. This is one of the simplest means of controlling the fungus. It can be used on critically infected plants.

Potassium/Sodium Bicarbonate

Potassium bicarbonate (KHCO3) and Sodium bicarbonate (NaHCO3) are wettable powders that change the pH of the leaf surface toward alkaline. Another reaction takes place; the fungus cell wall actually bursts in the presence of bicarbonate. Potassium is one of the macro-nutrients used by plants and therefore is preferred over sodium, as sodium can build up in the soil. Sodium bicarbonate can be found in your kitchen (baking soda), so some prefer it for ease of obtaining. Both are more effective when used with an oil and spreader such as castile soap. They can be used to cure bad infections and prevents new ones.

Use one teaspoon of bicarbonate powder, a teaspoon of oil and a few drops of castile soap in a pint of water, or 3 tablespoons each potassium bicarbonate and oil and a half teaspoon soap in a gallon of water. Spray on new growth.

Serenade® and Sonata®

Serenade® and Sonata® are composed of different bacteria. They use different pathways to stop mycellial growth. They are considered totally safe to humans and animals since the bacteria attack only fungi. Watch out if you are a mushroom, otherwise you are safe. The two bacteria work well together.

They are easy to use, quite safe and effective.

Sulfur

Sulfur has been used to control powdery mildew for centuries. Sulfur sprays can be used indoors but they are not popular because of residue that remains on the plant. In greenhouses gardeners use sulfur vaporizers that heat elemental sulfur to the point of vaporization. The sulfur condenses on all surfaces including the leaves. A fine deposit of very low pH sulfur granules covers the leaf surfaces. The low pH environment inhibits fungal growth. The heaters use a 60 watt light bulb to heat sulfur which is held in a container above the light. The bulb supplies enough heat to evaporate the sulfur, but not enough for it to ignite. The problem with vaporizers is that they also leave a fine sulfur film on the leaves and flowers.

Active mildew: 7 to 8 hours per night 1 to 2 times a week.
Preventative maintenance: 4 to 5 hours once a week

Vinegar

Apple cider vinegar is toxic to powdery mildew because of its high acidity (low pH). Use it at the rate of 1 tablespoon per quart of water several times a week . Some gardeners recommend alternating using vinegar with potassium bicarbonate and milk.

PREVENTION

· Isolate all new plants in a separate area where they can’t infect other plants.

· Filter incoming air to prevent spores from entering the room in the airstream.

· Install a germicidal UVC light, like the ones used in food handling areas. The light is fatal to all airborne organisms passing through the appliance. This will kill powdery mildew spores that are airborne.

· Spray the leaves with neem oil weekly. Neem oil presents both a physical barrier and a chemical deterrent.

· Cinnamon oil and cinnamon tea can also be sprayed as a powdery mildew preventative. If you are using cinnamon oil use 1 part oil to 200 parts water. (1 teaspoon oil in a liter of water.)





Thank you Urban Garden mag.

http://urbangardenmagazine.com/2009/08/how-to-beat-powdery-mildew-in-hydroponics/