Quality vs Quantity... Small Setup

  • Thread starter Dothraki
  • Start date
  • Tagged users None
Dothraki

Dothraki

1,523
263
Hey all! Long time user, prospective grower. I’m digging in and sifting through as much info as possible. I‘ve noticed a lot of info seems to be focused on yield, which is definitely understandable! However, I’m really only concerned with quality and wouldn’t mind yielding tiny plants with stinky, sticky dank buds. Only growing for myself I’d be fine with tiny yields.

With that said, are there certain aspects that I can disregard due to being only beneficial to yield or does larger plants/larger buds usually equate to danker buds? For instance I’m looking at the SF4000 LED for a 3x3 tent, but mostly for the 3000K, 5000K, 660nm, and IR 760nm. There is no UVA or UVB as far as I understand...and from what I’ve researched it seems UV can help with resin production in flowering?

My plan is 3x3, soil, still unsure about organic or not. Just looking to get the best I can (sure it won’t happen with my first few grows) but would like to know that my equipment is right for when I get some grows and experience under my belt. I’m going for 3x3 because I’m thinking it would be easier to control temp/humidity than a 2x2...but maybe I’m wrong lol.

Is the SF4000 a good prospect for a 3x3 if only focus is quality? Or is it too much for a 3x3 and possibly work against me? Should I look more into LEDs with built in UV diodes?
 
mysticepipedon

mysticepipedon

4,738
263
I never used a Spider Farmer fixture, but the SF4000 looks like overkill for a 3 x 3. You could get a lesser light. You'd likely be turning it down to 50 or 60% power in a 3 x 3.

If you want UVB, get a supplemental "lizard light" or two. Other UV - emitting lights can fry the fuck out of plants (Hmm… How would I know that?). But it's more important to learn how to grow than worry about supplemental UV.

I grow for quality, too. But there's no reason not to go for the highest yield possible in the setup you have.
 
PizzaBob

PizzaBob

168
43
This light is identical to SF 4000, probably made by same factory. I have these and I promise you will not find a better deal. With coupon $219. Just use the dimmer if needed. BLOOMSPECT SS4000 LED Grow Light, Full Spectrum Dimmable LED Plant Growing Lamps with LM301B Diodes & MeanWell Driver for Indoor Plants Veg & Bloom, 4x4 ft Coverage https://www.amazon.com/dp/B088FKV8C...abc_5G39561GNSNW8CP9GHCE?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
 
growsince79

growsince79

9,065
313
Hey all! Long time user, prospective grower. I’m digging in and sifting through as much info as possible. I‘ve noticed a lot of info seems to be focused on yield, which is definitely understandable! However, I’m really only concerned with quality and wouldn’t mind yielding tiny plants with stinky, sticky dank buds. Only growing for myself I’d be fine with tiny yields.

With that said, are there certain aspects that I can disregard due to being only beneficial to yield or does larger plants/larger buds usually equate to danker buds? For instance I’m looking at the SF4000 LED for a 3x3 tent, but mostly for the 3000K, 5000K, 660nm, and IR 760nm. There is no UVA or UVB as far as I understand...and from what I’ve researched it seems UV can help with resin production in flowering?

My plan is 3x3, soil, still unsure about organic or not. Just looking to get the best I can (sure it won’t happen with my first few grows) but would like to know that my equipment is right for when I get some grows and experience under my belt. I’m going for 3x3 because I’m thinking it would be easier to control temp/humidity than a 2x2...but maybe I’m wrong lol.

Is the SF4000 a good prospect for a 3x3 if only focus is quality? Or is it too much for a 3x3 and possibly work against me? Should I look more into LEDs with built in UV diodes?
Small plants will be the same taste and potency as a larger identical clone. Most hybrids available today can be forced to flower 2-3 weeks from sprout and make 1-3oz in less than 100 days. A single 3 x 3 room can produce 4lbs/year
 
Dirtbag

Dirtbag

Supporter
9,158
313
Generally speaking, a healthy happy plant will give you the best yield and best possible quality imho. And from my perspective, hydroponics or at least hydroponic feed in a soiless mix gives you the best overall plant health next to a finely tuned living soil grow. Which for pest reasons I don't really like doing indoors but I'm sure some people do. It's just a lot more complicated to get it right compared to hydroponics.

That light would give you very good results in a 3x3 but it would have to be very well ventilated and you might not be able to run it full blast. I wouldn't fart around with adding UV for your first grow, keep it simple and work on getting the basics of feeding right and learning how the plants react to their environment. Most of the great growers I've known only use the basics to grow fantastic weed
 
PizzaBob

PizzaBob

168
43
Hey all! Long time user, prospective grower. I’m digging in and sifting through as much info as possible. I‘ve noticed a lot of info seems to be focused on yield, which is definitely understandable! However, I’m really only concerned with quality and wouldn’t mind yielding tiny plants with stinky, sticky dank buds. Only growing for myself I’d be fine with tiny yields.

With that said, are there certain aspects that I can disregard due to being only beneficial to yield or does larger plants/larger buds usually equate to danker buds? For instance I’m looking at the SF4000 LED for a 3x3 tent, but mostly for the 3000K, 5000K, 660nm, and IR 760nm. There is no UVA or UVB as far as I understand...and from what I’ve researched it seems UV can help with resin production in flowering?

My plan is 3x3, soil, still unsure about organic or not. Just looking to get the best I can (sure it won’t happen with my first few grows) but would like to know that my equipment is right for when I get some grows and experience under my belt. I’m going for 3x3 because I’m thinking it would be easier to control temp/humidity than a 2x2...but maybe I’m wrong lol.

Is the SF4000 a good prospect for a 3x3 if only focus is quality? Or is it too much for a 3x3 and possibly work against me? Should I look more into LEDs with built in UV diodes?
If your still on fence here that 219 dollar light and some of what’s under it.
 
A281BE46 757B 458B A607 DD8D8CA8C6B0
FF90EE91 631D 49CA AA9B 3B7BF28C3D19
PizzaBob

PizzaBob

168
43
If your still on fence here that 219 dollar light and some of what’s under it.
Can’t edit this but I need to state that I was schooled on a potentially better light fir your grow. The Spider Farmer SE 3000. As a single fixture I think the extra 125 bucks is worth it. It also looks like it had UV and it bar style.
 
PizzaBob

PizzaBob

168
43
Hey all! Long time user, prospective grower. I’m digging in and sifting through as much info as possible. I‘ve noticed a lot of info seems to be focused on yield, which is definitely understandable! However, I’m really only concerned with quality and wouldn’t mind yielding tiny plants with stinky, sticky dank buds. Only growing for myself I’d be fine with tiny yields.

With that said, are there certain aspects that I can disregard due to being only beneficial to yield or does larger plants/larger buds usually equate to danker buds? For instance I’m looking at the SF4000 LED for a 3x3 tent, but mostly for the 3000K, 5000K, 660nm, and IR 760nm. There is no UVA or UVB as far as I understand...and from what I’ve researched it seems UV can help with resin production in flowering?

My plan is 3x3, soil, still unsure about organic or not. Just looking to get the best I can (sure it won’t happen with my first few grows) but would like to know that my equipment is right for when I get some grows and experience under my belt. I’m going for 3x3 because I’m thinking it would be easier to control temp/humidity than a 2x2...but maybe I’m wrong lol.

Is the SF4000 a good prospect for a 3x3 if only focus is quality? Or is it too much for a 3x3 and possibly work against me? Should I look more into LEDs with built in UV diodes?
Update my other posts. SE 3000 fir like 319 w coupon. For a 3x3 it checks all the boxes. Spider Farmer SE3000 LED Grow Lights 300W with 896Pcs Samsung Diodes MeanWell Driver 3x3ft Full Spectrum UV IR 4 Bar Grow Light Dimmable Growing Lamp for Indoor Plants https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08S6VVMZ...abc_P49PWZX66M2T4MMATRGQ?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
 
Gurtgurt

Gurtgurt

194
43
I think plant training and removing low growth chutes before flower would be what you should focus on, regardless of the light. I have SF2000 and I think your light would be overkill.
 
Dothraki

Dothraki

1,523
263
I never used a Spider Farmer fixture, but the SF4000 looks like overkill for a 3 x 3. You could get a lesser light. You'd likely be turning it down to 50 or 60% power in a 3 x 3.
Ahh ok...and dimming down doesn’t perform as good from what I understand right? Ideally you’d want to run full power of any light for the flower phase?


Small plants will be the same taste and potency as a larger identical clone. Most hybrids available today can be forced to flower 2-3 weeks from sprout and make 1-3oz in less than 100 days. A single 3 x 3 room can produce 4lbs/year
Awesome! Good to know! Time for Bonsai Cannabis! Lol

Generally speaking, a healthy happy plant will give you the best yield and best possible quality imho. And from my perspective, hydroponics or at least hydroponic feed in a soiless mix gives you the best overall plant health next to a finely tuned living soil grow. Which for pest reasons I don't really like doing indoors but I'm sure some people do. It's just a lot more complicated to get it right compared to hydroponics.

That light would give you very good results in a 3x3 but it would have to be very well ventilated and you might not be able to run it full blast. I wouldn't fart around with adding UV for your first grow, keep it simple and work on getting the basics of feeding right and learning how the plants react to their environment. Most of the great growers I've known only use the basics to grow fantastic weed
Is that because the smaller area reflects the light at higher intensity? Running it dimmed during flowering does sound sorta silly...but it seems like the SE3000 (as PizzaBob mentioned) would be more ideal for a 2x2 for flower...maybe something with a little more power than the SE3000 (for flowering) but not quite the SF4000, would be ideal for a 3x3. Or is the extra power only useful for larger plants to yield more? I also like the 3000k spectrum of the SF4000 for flower (from what I’m gathering it’s more ideal than 3200k or 3500k) seems to tick all the boxes.
sorry for all the questions, I’m sure there’s a million me’s posting these noobie questions every day lol. But I do love the science and learning.

Update my other posts. SE 3000 fir like 319 w coupon. For a 3x3 it checks all the boxes. Spider Farmer SE3000 LED Grow Lights 300W with 896Pcs Samsung Diodes MeanWell Driver 3x3ft Full Spectrum UV IR 4 Bar Grow Light Dimmable Growing Lamp for Indoor Plants https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08S6VVMZ...abc_P49PWZX66M2T4MMATRGQ?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
I was checking that out too. Do you think the SE3000 would be a good choice for a 3x3 if all you’re after is final quality rather than yield?

Btw...appreciate the help soooo much you guys have no idea. Head spinning trying to put everything in place in my head lol. Should have seen me trying to buy telescope equipment when I first started out.
 
Dothraki

Dothraki

1,523
263
I think plant training and removing low growth chutes before flower would be what you should focus on, regardless of the light. I have SF2000 and I think your light would be overkill.
Absolutely, thanks! Just want to make sure I buy the right light first. Seems the SF4000 is overkill is pretty unanimous too lol. What are your thoughts on the SE3000 for a 3x3 full cycle?
 
PizzaBob

PizzaBob

168
43
Absolutely, thanks! Just want to make sure I buy the right light first. Seems the SF4000 is overkill is pretty unanimous too lol. What are your thoughts on the SE3000 for a 3x3 full cycle?
If I had a 3x3 and had to buy a light today I’d probably lean towards the SE 3000. Otherwise it be the bloomspect and here’s why.
The SF is truly the most thought out light for the small room market and includes UV. Must good bars are 480++ watts and much more money. But the downside is that the diodes aren’t the upgraded B or H series and the driver is the 300 watt C version. I haven’t researched that but most likely an ELG “lite”. So I’m sure these minor downgrades in the components are overcome by the whole package. Therefore I’d take the SF.
On the other hand if I had a larger room where I could get cross over lighting and throw in some supplemental UV I’d buy a bunch of the bloomspect and hang em higher. In one year I’d right it off and buy the bar styles. I mean hell I could buy like 1000 dollars worth of those bloomspects and be getting 5 lbs per take down.
 
Dothraki

Dothraki

1,523
263
Thoughts on Growers Choice ROI-E420? The SE3000 is definitely a candidate I’m looking into, but just want to look at some other options in the ballpark. It seems tough to find an optimal full cycle light for a 3x3. It’s funny how many options there are now as opposed to 20 years ago.
 
MIGrampaUSA

MIGrampaUSA

3,732
263
Thoughts on Growers Choice ROI-E420? The SE3000 is definitely a candidate I’m looking into, but just want to look at some other options in the ballpark. It seems tough to find an optimal full cycle light for a 3x3. It’s funny how many options there are now as opposed to 20 years ago.
I run a Grower's Choice ROI - E720 in one of my 5 x 5's. I also have some bloom booster reds + far reds in there and some California Lightworks UVB fixtures arriving soon. This current run is the first grow with the addon's. I love my E720 and the buds it produces all by itself. To the best of my knowledge, the E420 is simply the E720's little sibling.

As for too much light? If there is any chance what so ever of upgrading to a larger tent in the future, grab the larger light. There is nothing wrong at running your grow light at less than 100%.
 
Dothraki

Dothraki

1,523
263
As for too much light? If there is any chance what so ever of upgrading to a larger tent in the future, grab the larger light. There is nothing wrong at running your grow light at less than 100%.
Im a little confused why a more powerful light would be bad in a smaller tent. Regardless of tent size the light will still be over the plants so why would it be bad to use a higher output light in a smaller tent? Is it because of the reflections being more intense in a smaller tent?
 
MIGrampaUSA

MIGrampaUSA

3,732
263
Im a little confused why a more powerful light would be bad in a smaller tent. Regardless of tent size the light will still be over the plants so why would it be bad to use a higher output light in a smaller tent? Is it because of the reflections being more intense in a smaller tent?
There was a poster trying to say that one of the lights you're interested in would be too powerful for your tent. I, personally, would purchase the largest and best light you can afford that will fit in your space. This would be especially true if there is any chance at all in upgrading to a larger tent in the future. Usually, the higher output lights are designed for a larger tent, but if it fits without being up against the walls of the tent, you can adjust the amount of light your plants receive by either using your dimmer or raising the lights higher. You can even do both. There are some advantages to this flexibility including reducing your over-all expense if you ever upgrade to a larger grow space.

This is why if it fits your budget, buy the best light you can afford. I run an E720 in a much larger tent and its remarkable. I would expect the same/similar results from the E420 in a 3 x 3 and for it to also do very well in a 4 x 4 if you should ever upgrade your tent size. I hope I'm making sense.
 
Dothraki

Dothraki

1,523
263
There was a poster trying to say that one of the lights you're interested in would be too powerful for your tent. I, personally, would purchase the largest and best light you can afford that will fit in your space. This would be especially true if there is any chance at all in upgrading to a larger tent in the future. Usually, the higher output lights are designed for a larger tent, but if it fits without being up against the walls of the tent, you can adjust the amount of light your plants receive by either using your dimmer or raising the lights higher. You can even do both. There are some advantages to this flexibility including reducing your over-all expense if you ever upgrade to a larger grow space.

This is why if it fits your budget, buy the best light you can afford. I run an E720 in a much larger tent and its remarkable. I would expect the same/similar results from the E420 in a 3 x 3 and for it to also do very well in a 4 x 4 if you should ever upgrade your tent size. I hope I'm making sense.
Awesome, makes sense. Do you think I would need CO2 using that in the 3x3? I’ve read about more light you might need CO2. Im hoping to get started within a few weeks, that’s why I’m trying to hammer out all my questions before buying gear lol. Sorry if you’ve answered this stuff a million times already.
 
MIGrampaUSA

MIGrampaUSA

3,732
263
Awesome, makes sense. Do you think I would need CO2 using that in the 3x3? I’ve read about more light you might need CO2. Im hoping to get started within a few weeks, that’s why I’m trying to hammer out all my questions before buying gear lol. Sorry if you’ve answered this stuff a million times already.
Personally? I wouldn't worry about CO2 at this time. It's a lot of extra $$ that isn't necessary to grow quality weed. Is it a bad thing? No ... just not something I would add until I've run a few grow cycles and then I would decide.

Hang the light a little higher and let your plants grow into the light. Young seedlings should be run at 50%. Veg state at 75% and flower at 100%. You'll be fine.
 
Dothraki

Dothraki

1,523
263
Personally? I wouldn't worry about CO2 at this time. It's a lot of extra $$ that isn't necessary to grow quality weed. Is it a bad thing? No ... just not something I would add until I've run a few grow cycles and then I would decide.

Hang the light a little higher and let your plants grow into the light. Young seedlings should be run at 50%. Veg state at 75% and flower at 100%. You'll be fine.
Great! Thanks so much!
 
Schwer

Schwer

Supporter
566
143
This is why if it fits your budget, buy the best light you can afford. I run an E720 in a much larger tent and its remarkable. I would expect the same/similar results from the E420 in a 3 x 3 and for it to also do very well in a 4 x 4 if you should ever upgrade your tent size. I hope I'm making sense.

I'm finishing up my first grow using the middle child of this line-up, the ROI-E680 in a 4x4. I'm very happy with the results but I won't pretend to be able to compare my light to any other; its just the one I purchased based on a bunch of reviews, it seems to work well and it hasn't crapped out on me yet. I ended up buying the Grower's Choice Master Controller too, and while totally over priced I like the added functionality. You can fine-tune the lighting adjustments, use it as a timer, temp/humidity sensor, cover a second light, etc. But like I said, I bet you can do the same with other equipment for far less.

For what its worth I used living soil for my first grow and really enjoyed it. Maybe I was lucky, but compared to what I see most people going through my grow seemed easy as hell. I think I screwed up my top dressing schedule by doing my late top-dressings too early but it all seems to have worked out okay. The only pests I had to deal with this time around were some fungus gnats, but I added some yellow sticky pads and had really good airflow under the canopy and the issue never had a chance to spread.
 
Top Bottom