Questions about my BHO extraction process

tumerz · Dec 24, 2012

Hey guys, first time posting here but I've been lurking for awhile. After many extractions, I have found myself with lower yields/ratios than I have been reading about. I think the problem lies in my extraction process. Here's what I'm doing:

-Using high quality trim/popcorn nugs, and running them in a dehydrator for about an hour or until completely dried.

-Then I take my tube (approx. 1.5'' diameter x 12'' long, made out of glass), and I pack about 100g into it, making sure to take out all the stems. (I do not grind the trim/small nugs, I just pack the tube tightly)

-I use 3-4 coffee filters on the end, and secure them with a hose clamp.

-I run about 2 cans of Vector per run, holding down constant pressure the entire time.

-I blow into a pyrex dish in a warm, temp controlled water bath

-After my first run, I unpack the tube and let the plant matter warm up and crumble

-I repack the tube, and run another 2 cans of Vector in the same fashion.

-I let my oil purge for about 1-3 hours at a constant temp. around 115 F

After this I am only getting about a 11:1 ratio, which kind of sucks. If anyone can give me suggestions on how to improve my technique/process, it would be much appreciated.

humbtrin · Dec 24, 2012

i will ask my friend that makes it then get back to you

Graywolf · Dec 24, 2012

With the Terpenators, we've gotten from 5.8% to 28.1% from prime bud and usually average around 10 to 12% with quality trim, so your 9% is not that far off.

All that I see in your process, is that 1.5" ID is too large for a single pass column. We use 1" or smaller. It is harder to not have channeling with a larger tube.

You might insert a wadded up coffee filter in your injection end, to dissipate and evenly spread the butane.

sky high · Dec 24, 2012

I used to run a lot of oil. I always had better luck by NOT tightly packing the weed in the tube.

If it were me in your situation...I'd wait about 10 minutes and then run a 3rd can through the tube....no unpacking/etc. rather than unpacking/repacking and using 2 more cans. For my money....I'd save the 4th can for another fresh run. (if I had the trim)

good luck

Mustard · Dec 24, 2012

Graywolf is right the tube is pretty wide, but like he said put cotton balls or paper towels at the top of tube and that should help. If i were you I'd get a skinnier tube. Either make it longer or just get two of them to make up for lost volume

The way i decide how much butane to use is I run double the butane it takes to see oil dripping from the bottom.

Also I have always gotten better results from packing tightly.

I wouldn't dehydrate the trim first either although I'm sure that only helps your yield.

Again, 9% isn't bad for a trim run its pretty average

tumerz · Dec 24, 2012

Cool, thanks for the responses guys. I'm gonna do some runs when I get back to school after break.

As Graywolf said, I think my tube is too wide, and I'm gonna find a skinnier one to try, and and I'm going to pack the tube not as tightly.

Would any of you recommend grinding/breaking down the trim before the first run?

Mustard · Dec 24, 2012

It's always good to experiment and get results for yourself, but a tighter tube will always yield better IMHO. Pretty sure that grinding will always produce a darker oil.

Mustard · Dec 24, 2012

It's trim anyways should be broken up plenty already, and any little buds are better left untouched.

tattoojim · Dec 24, 2012

if you can freeze and run fresh ...you will be happy;)

Graywolf · Dec 25, 2012

tumerz said:
Cool, thanks for the responses guys. I'm gonna do some runs when I get back to school after break.

As Graywolf said, I think my tube is too wide, and I'm gonna find a skinnier one to try, and and I'm going to pack the tube not as tightly.

Would any of you recommend grinding/breaking down the trim before the first run?

Depends on what you are making. We grind all of our material for oral or topical meds, but don't for first quality vaporization oil. Grinding exposes more raw plant edges, that can bleed water solubles and chlorophyll into the extraction.

We prefer fresher material, that isn't bone dry, for vaporization as well. The lighter terpenes evaporate away with the water, when it is bone dry.

tumerz · Dec 25, 2012

I'm trying to get the best shatter oil I can. I have a vac set up to a pressure cooker, so I can keep the oil heated while purging in it. I'm getting a light gold color lately, and it turns out very hard.

Thanks for the tips, I'm sure they'll come in handy in the future.

Graywolf · Dec 27, 2012

tumerz said:
I'm trying to get the best shatter oil I can. I have a vac set up to a pressure cooker, so I can keep the oil heated while purging in it. I'm getting a light gold color lately, and it turns out very hard.

Thanks for the tips, I'm sure they'll come in handy in the future.

For the best shatter, we use 46C/115F and -29.9" Hg.

bluesurfboy · Dec 30, 2012

tattoojim said:
if you can freeze and run fresh ...you will be happy;)View attachment 277791 View attachment 277791

IS the biggest difference maker in getting the lighter extracts, fresher material compared to bone dry.

which is a bigger difference factor, strain or how much its been dried/cured?

Graywolf · Dec 31, 2012

Fresher material is lighter colored than decarboxylated material. It turns from light yellow to amber when it loses the COOH chain.

bluesurfboy · Dec 31, 2012

Graywolf said:
Fresher material is lighter colored than decarboxylated material. It turns from light yellow to amber when it loses the COOH chain.

My understanding was that decarboxylated cannabis is only called that after being dried/cured AND heated.

Does drying/curing completely also cause the material to lose its COOH chain, or is it just from the loss of the lighter terpenese and/or other tastes.

I've never decarbed my material before running, so i dont know what color to compare it against, i have most people telling my they love my color, i guess i personally just would like to see more lighter colors..

bluesurfboy · Dec 31, 2012

tattoojim said:
if you can freeze and run fresh ...you will be happy;)View attachment 277791 View attachment 277791

does "fresh" mean just-cut, still wet or dry to touch, stems snap, but not fully cured.

tattoojim · Dec 31, 2012

bluesurfboy said:
does "fresh" mean just-cut, still wet or dry to touch, stems snap, but not fully cured.

yes buddy...i will cut off the plant and freeze..:D

Graywolf · Jan 1, 2013

bluesurfboy said:
My understanding was that decarboxylated cannabis is only called that after being dried/cured AND heated.

Does drying/curing completely also cause the material to lose its COOH chain, or is it just from the loss of the lighter terpenese and/or other tastes.

I've never decarbed my material before running, so i dont know what color to compare it against, i have most people telling my they love my color, i guess i personally just would like to see more lighter colors..

Decarboxylation is a drying process, where the carboxylic acids lose the COOH molecule in the form of CO2 and H2O. It has nothing to do with the other terpenes.

Drying a fresh plant, and using heat, speeds up the rate of decarboxylation, but It starts before the plants are harvested and continues even at room temperature 24/7.

I personally am less concerned about the color, as I am the smell, taste, and effect. I compliment folks on color, based on it being in the expected range, and demonstrating optical clarity, as opposed to how light the color.

Unlike dark green, even a light electric green from overwash, can still be smooth, tasty, and effective, without the expected harshness from chlorophyll pickup.

I recommend letting your nose and taste buds guide you, and your body sensations be the judge, rather than just your eyes.

bluesurfboy · Jan 27, 2013

Graywolf said:
Decarboxylation is a drying process, where the carboxylic acids lose the COOH molecule in the form of CO2 and H2O. It has nothing to do with the other terpenes.

Drying a fresh plant, and using heat, speeds up the rate of decarboxylation, but It starts before the plants are harvested and continues even at room temperature 24/7.

I personally am less concerned about the color, as I am the smell, taste, and effect. I compliment folks on color, based on it being in the expected range, and demonstrating optical clarity, as opposed to how light the color.

Unlike dark green, even a light electric green from overwash, can still be smooth, tasty, and effective, without the expected harshness from chlorophyll pickup.

I recommend letting your nose and taste buds guide you, and your body sensations be the judge, rather than just your eyes.

Thanks, I appreciate the explanation.

As far as nose, taste, and body i have no issues, only color, but I can definitely see how that isnt as big of issue as bad smells/chemicals/molds

Graywolf · Jan 31, 2013

bluesurfboy said:
does "fresh" mean just-cut, still wet or dry to touch, stems snap, but not fully cured.

Don't know what it means at other locals, but locally fresh means just cut and free of exterior moisture that will freeze and coat the trichomes, preventing extraction.

Dry means 7 to 5 days hanging, when the small stems will snap. Moisture content is in the 15/20% range.

Cured means curing dried material in a jar after the 5 to 7 days, usually longer than 30 days and less than a year. Moisture content is around 10/15%.

Questions about my BHO extraction process

Questions about my BHO extraction process

tumerz

humbtrin

Graywolf

sky high

Mustard

tumerz

Mustard

Mustard

tattoojim

Unknown farmer

Graywolf

tumerz

Graywolf

bluesurfboy

Graywolf

bluesurfboy

bluesurfboy

tattoojim

Unknown farmer

Graywolf

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Questions about my BHO extraction process

Questions about my BHO extraction process

tumerz

humbtrin

Graywolf

sky high

Mustard

tumerz

Mustard

Mustard

tattoojim

Unknown farmer

Graywolf

tumerz

Graywolf

bluesurfboy

Graywolf

bluesurfboy

bluesurfboy

tattoojim

Unknown farmer

Graywolf

bluesurfboy

Graywolf

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