I agree with almost everything you said here. Especially this part:

"hygrozyme is NOT useful to solve a single issue.
why?
once you've tipped the balance in favor of "nasty" microbes, fucking forget that enzyme bullshit."


But how does this prove that hygrozyme is a cause of any of these problems? Only that misuse of it from "very very misinformed people" can make it not preform "in certain situations". I think thats true with anything in life, like putting gasoline on your lawn.

Are you using DM zone for your sterile environment? Thats all fine and dandy with ebb and flow and sterile environment because its very hard for algae to take hold in that system where the roots are not submerged in water all the time. Once applied to DWC and the DM zone is noneffective against the algae what do you do? You have no other options in a sterile environment to fight it because you cant add benes.

Once your rez IS sterile what are the negative affects of adding hygrozyme? If there are no bad bacteria or algae to feed, hygrozyme will mearly eat the dead organic material. Someone please take the time to explain WHAT hygrozyme DOES to hurt your grow other then feeding the bad bacteria or algae? Then explain how it can harm anything if there arent any bad bacteria or algae?

As advice goes i completely agree with you now. No one should use hygrozyme with DWC because of the possibility of misuse. NOT because it is a bad product that doesnt do what it claims. Sterilizing with bleach, physan, zone, h202, or whatever means to kill the root rot and bad bacteria is essiential. Then adding beneficial bacteria to recolonize and compete with the bad bacteria and algae. The benes will produce enzymes anyways like hygrozyme if brewed correctly. Make sure to brew for 48 hours in a separate rez then add to your main.

As a side note aquashield and other bottled benes dont need to be brewed and are ready to rock right out of the bottle but only have a 2-5 year shelf life. Also they dont have NEARLY the diversity of powdered benes like mycogrow or great white.

Also feel free to not take ANY of my advice, it really doesnt hurt my feelings. Like anything please digest the information and decide what you believe is true and best for your individual situation.

primeform said:

As a side note aquashield and other bottled benes dont need to be brewed and are ready to rock right out of the bottle but only have a 2-5 year shelf life. Also they dont have NEARLY the diversity of powdered benes like mycogrow or great white.

Also feel free to not take ANY of my advice, it really doesnt hurt my feelings. Like anything please digest the information and decide what you believe is true and best for your individual situation.

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Damn i always thought it was a year for aquashield, guess they changed it up since the ol hydroguard days a couple years ago

Mr.GoodCat said:

This thread has become entertaining and very informative at the same time. I never intended to stir up a shit storm. I was just looking to help ghettogrow with the problem in the OP. Something tells me the last thing he is going to do is put hygrozyme in his rez, and thats good. Thats what I set out to do was stop an epic failure. Although I had to be a dick to do it I am glad because in the long run it helped him out and now he stands a much better chance of fixing his problem.

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Actually all you did was make yourself look like an ass that doesn't understand his own grow system and lets other people try to explain the information he regurgitated from an internet thread. Of which was written by 10 dollar an hour employee of a hydro system that had probably never heard the word hygrozyme until misinformed customers called to complain about it ruining there plants.

MediMary said:

Damn i always thought it was a year for aquashield, guess they changed it up since the ol hydroguard days a couple years ago

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Thats why those products are a rip off. Just get powdered and brew it. cheaper and more diverse.

pop hydrozymes cock out of your mouth bro, do you realize you all alone here posting away, not a single person has backed you up and not a single person cares what you have to say about hydrozyme, start up your own thread and rant away

ok mr dizzle please keep telling people to run physan to solve there root rot problems

http://i260.invalid.com/albums/ii9/honing_skills/I_LIKE_WHERE_THIS_THREAD_IS_GOING.jpg

Are all you guys from ICmag or something? This is the first time on the farm ive dealt with people like you. There are other websites for people with attitudes like yours.

Ignorance is bliss.

In the two months you have been here :)?
ignorance equals disaster (imo)

Yup, 2 months and not one time had to deal with icmag dbags. theres always a first.

But then again ive been used to dealing with those people since OG almost 10 years ago now. Probably when you kids were in Jr high..

No offense but I get the feeling you are the type of guy just to throw stuff out there, like where did you get the number 2-5 years for bottled beneies?

primeform said:

ok mr dizzle please keep telling people to run physan to solve there root rot problems

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peep one of my many thread primecunt, only ones I could find from you were asking about seeds, great contribution to the farm you will be missed

seeing as you have admitted to NOT BEING A HYDRO GUY, why you even bothered giving second hand, shit advice tells a lot about the type of person you are. you clearly need to feel special by sharing your never experienced experiences

physan is an algaecide/fungicide, and since algae is and algae and pythium(root rot) is actually a fungi, it will solve both problems, proven, I have a thread showing so

Not exactly.

Pythium is a genus of parasitic oomycete. Most species are plant parasites, but Pythium insidiosum is an important pathogen of animals. Because this group of organisms were once classified as fungi, they are sometimes still treated as such.

Also, this doesnt solve any problem. it just kills the pythium once you have it. do you run physan in your system non stop? unless you use it as a preventive messure and use it as a sterile environment thats not a solution. you would still need to run DM zone or bene bacterias to keep it from comming back if you dont run it non stop. Ive also heard the thing that it breaks down to nitrogen so it isnt bad for your health. But it is made for plants of non consumption.

If you can run physan 20 every res as a sterilization methods and it solves algae i dont know why this isnt the solve all. And this is the information I was trying to get out of you the entire thread. Why not just say this in your first post instead of talking shit about hygrozyme and me?

MediMary said:

No offense but I get the feeling you are the type of guy just to throw stuff out there, like where did you get the number 2-5 years for bottled beneies?

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heisenberg. and thats about the range. the shelf life is 1 year but that doesnt mean that they are all dead. That is like the "sell by" date on milk. truth is they start dying off and losing there potency far before the shelf life date just like milk. milk doesnt just go bad in one day. its a process from the first day. storage factors make up the biggest factor. storing in a cool place will make your microbes last alot longer, hence the reason they put expensive ass root excellurator in a metal container.

primeform said:

Not exactly.

Pythium is a genus of parasitic oomycete. Most species are plant parasites, but Pythium insidiosum is an important pathogen of animals. Because this group of organisms were once classified as fungi, they are sometimes still treated as such.

Also, this doesnt solve any problem. it just kills the pythium once you have it. do you run physan in your system non stop? unless you use it as a preventive messure and use it as a sterile environment thats not a solution. you would still need to run DM zone or bene bacterias to keep it from comming back if you dont run it non stop. Ive also heard the thing that it breaks down to nitrogen so it isnt bad for your health. But it is made for plants of non consumption.

If you can run physan 20 every res as a sterilization methods and it solves algae i dont know why this isnt the solve all. And this is the information I was trying to get out of you the entire thread. Why not just say this in your first post instead of talking shit about hygrozyme and me?

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my first post #9 in this very thread coolguy told him about hydrofungicide I also state that physan is plan B, you missed if probably because you were busy suggesting hydrozyme

I have full details of how to use physan20 and hydrofuncide to in a couple of my threads. As I understand Groovy hydro sends out a rot/algae attack list based on my techniques and experience.

I would have told him physan first but he caught the problem at the get and hydrofungicide will work if he used it like I stated in post #9

Done with you holmes, people like you are a prime reason a lot of great farmers choose not to post anymore

primeform said:

Also, this doesnt solve any problem. it just kills the pythium once you have it. do you run physan in your system non stop? unless you use it as a preventive messure and use it as a sterile environment thats not a solution. you would still need to run DM zone or bene bacterias to keep it from comming back if you dont run it non stop. Ive also heard the thing that it breaks down to nitrogen so it isnt bad for your health. But it is made for plants of non consumption.

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i'm certain the part of this idea is flawed.

i'd cite multiple real world grow experiences... but save it for another time.

still, i know more than a few hydro farmers that dont even have pyhsan in their stable of nutes for the reason you menioned.

all these products. and still fighting rot?

makes no sense.

i'd look at method & maintenance & environment before throwing anything other than h2o2 in a rez.

i'd dip with chems & only throw them in my rez as a last resort.

You make suggestions but you dont give any reasons. After reading more of your posts i can see that you have information to back your claims. So why not explain it? Im still confused about things.

Why is hydrofungicide solution 1 if physan 20 works? how are you sure that physan 20 is safe? Can you run the physan 20 the entire round? If you have already posted this info and dont want to again could you just say that? Or post a link to one of your other threads? Why would anyone ever use DM zone if physan 20 is better for everything?

primeform said:

Not exactly.

Pythium is a genus of parasitic oomycete. Most species are plant parasites, but Pythium insidiosum is an important pathogen of animals. Because this group of organisms were once classified as fungi, they are sometimes still treated as such.

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Damn primeform ... you are like the energizer bunny with a box of crayons and a helmet. I can picture you drooling on yourself as you navigate through wikepedia to copy and paste the definition of Pythium. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pythium for anyone who wants to see where primeform gets his info ...

Found this on one of mr dizzles old threads. Its specific for MPBs but can be cross applied im sure. sorry about the snide comment about physan. I obviously am not trying to stop you from posting like "alot of great farmers". Just tryin to sort out the real information from the regurgitation.

"If you come to the conclusion that the plant has some sort of root infection, first you should do is to drain the system , flush with 1tsp physan20 per 15gals for 4 hours, fill and drain again to get any additional crap out of the system, then fill the system and dose with 4ml hydrofungicide per gallon. fill the system up but cut the feedline going to the sick plant right before its about to start to over flow, that way there is just the 15gal or so in that tub and that water isnt going to go back to the main res.

at this point add another tsp or hydrofingicide to the tub of the sick plant. now figure you should at a tsp of hydrofungicide a every other day to the sick plant, and adding water to fill it up to just below the feed line by opening the peacock valve on from the main feedline and allowing water from the main res to fill the tub. I had to do it about every 3-4 days

I also treated the main res every 3-4days with hydrofungicide until I was sure that the roots were not getting sick too.

after 10days the roots are all popping white again., the sick plant that I ripped about 50% of its roots off, has a tub full of completely white roots, the plants are perfectly healthy once again, roots are popping white"

primeform said:

You make suggestions but you dont give any reasons. After reading more of your posts i can see that you have information to back your claims. So why not explain it? Im still confused about things.

Why is hydrofungicide solution 1 if physan 20 works? how are you sure that physan 20 is safe? Can you run the physan 20 the entire round? If you have already posted this info and dont want to again could you just say that? Or post a link to one of your other threads? Why would anyone ever use DM zone if physan 20 is better for everything?

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Because physan foams up like a motherfucker and it’s a little annoying, hydrofuncide foams up but not even remotely close to physan... I called the company and spoke with them in length about physan being harmful. At the dose of 1tsp per 15gal, it is completely harmless to you or your plants and breaks down in about 3days in N.

If his roots were covered in brown algae I would have said run physan, but they weren’t, I prefer hydro fungicide for undetermined ROOT ISSUSES which is what his pictures showed

Hydrofuncide is my hands down choice for weekly dosing your system, as it does not break down into N, which I don’t want in flower, it works 20times better than zone IMO and can’t really be over-dosed like zone.

If you add it to your res everyday during a bad problem, I can almost give you a 100% guarantee that it will solve your problem, but it’s expensive, so If the shit hits the fan I reach for the $12 bottle of physan, because I know I would be filling and dumping 150gals of water out of my system about 5times(which would be at least a gal($160) of hydro fungicide) in a week during a problem until I felt my system is clean and I had removed all the dead algae and or roots out of my system

There you have my explanation, which I have typed probably 40times in the last year