RDWC brown root problems????

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primeform

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wow your a sleuth detective mr goodcat. no shit sherlock LOL!

are you ever going to add a single productive sentence to this thread?
 
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primeform

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Because physan foams up like a motherfucker and it’s a little annoying, hydrofuncide foams up but not even remotely close to physan... I called the company and spoke with them in length about physan being harmful. At the dose of 1tsp per 15gal, it is completely harmless to you or your plants and breaks down in about 3days in N.

If his roots were covered in brown algae I would have said run physan, but they weren’t, I prefer hydro fungicide for undetermined ROOT ISSUSES which is what his pictures showed

Hydrofuncide is my hands down choice for weekly dosing your system, as it does not break down into N, which I don’t want in flower, it works 20times better than zone IMO and can’t really be over-dosed like zone.

If you add it to your res everyday during a bad problem, I can almost give you a 100% guarantee that it will solve your problem, but it’s expensive, so If the shit hits the fan I reach for the $12 bottle of physan, because I know I would be filling and dumping 150gals of water out of my system about 5times(which would be at least a gal($160) of hydro fungicide) in a week during a problem until I felt my system is clean and I had removed all the dead algae and or roots out of my system

There you have my explanation, which I have typed probably 40times in the last year


/endthread

could have copied that and pasted it the first response and this would be over. thanks bro
 
convex

convex

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You make suggestions but you dont give any reasons. After reading more of your posts i can see that you have information to back your claims. So why not explain it? Im still confused about things.

Why is hydrofungicide solution 1 if physan 20 works? how are you sure that physan 20 is safe? Can you run the physan 20 the entire round? If you have already posted this info and dont want to again could you just say that? Or post a link to one of your other threads? Why would anyone ever use DM zone if physan 20 is better for everything?


Ummm yeah ... back off ....
 
Tripping balls
UCMENOW

UCMENOW

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Primefart....u r w/o a doubt a turd.

I'd waste my time going into detail as to why you are turdish but I don't have the time......clown status I bestow upon u little guy.

It's rare to see such a well balanced dose of ignorance and lack of tack...you r a true pioneer.

Oh, and no matter how many times you write it, Hygrozyme still is inappropriate for 90%+ of all RDWC applications. BTW, my opinions based on over 10 years of rocking RDWC....you?
 
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MediMary

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Primefart....u r w/o a doubt a turd.

I'd waste my time going into detail as to why you are turdish but I don't have the time......clown status I bestow upon u little guy.

It's rare to see such a well balanced dose of ignorance and lack of tack...you r a true pioneer.

Oh, and no matter how many times you write it, Hygrozyme still is inappropriate for 90%+ of all RDWC applications. BTW, my opinions based on over 10 years of rocking RDWC....you?

Reformed lash master , LOL

yah know, I think it would be cool if giving bad advice even after being corrected was a bannable offense, Take a vote if 9 out of 10 agree bam, your demoted to RIU for a month to think about your actions:)


LOL

jst playin
 
UCMENOW

UCMENOW

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MM....I'm trying to kick the lash habit, it's hard when turds gone wild.

BTW, I vote yes on the ban for bad info and an extremely bad attitude from Primetard.
 
Mr.GoodCat

Mr.GoodCat

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Has anyone ever been banned for being a turd and feeding the community with shit sandwiches of information? That would be epic!
 
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primeform

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Because the information is over your head or you dont find it appropriate for your situation doesn't mean its bad information. Instead of actually proving anything you have resorted to name calling. Seems like the farm gets alot of the people that getted banned on ICmag.
 
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MediMary

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Its a lot like life guys, some kids don't matter how many times you tell them something is hot, they want to always touch it until they actually burn themselves, its pretty obvious gettogro isn't going the hygrozyme route, but lets say a farmer wants to try Igrowslime no matter what people say, then hopefully they will try it on a single plant and not their whole crop, and see if it will work in their environment. Knowledge is gained from reading others posts(sometimes), but sometimes you just got to fuck shit up for yourself to understand what wont and what will work and thats experience(IMo)

hopefully we can get back to gettos grow cause damn I thought i could piss with the best of them but this just looks like it ain't going to stop :)
 
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gudkarma

Guest
NO

reading off the internet & suggesting someone try like u know it works

that's disingenuous.

that's qualifies as fraud.

*

YES

reading off the internet , trying it in your own garden several times , and then reporting to the internet like you know something

that's good for farmers who've invested $ skrilla $ in electricity, time, effort, nutes, water, etc..

that's positive

*

finally :

it should be : INTERNET LAW : if you want to participate in the online canna grow community, you must have a grow journal up on a website (in the bullshit vastness that is internet land) so we can at least take you & any advice you give a wee bit fucking seriously.

...solo cups to warehouses ...show me (us) what you know.

here's some meat & potatoes.

get a belly full of dat kush.

yum.
 
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UCMENOW

UCMENOW

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Take it or leave it

1)Raise your lamps to reduce stress on plants

2)Drain your system.

3)Pull away any dead or dying root matter from the root mass....even if this means the entire root system. Don't leave any necrotic root tissue.

4)Run water for a day or so.

5)Rinse thru entire root mass until drain clean then drain

6)Introduce nutes at a very reduced dosage from strength

7)mix in this www.planetnatural.com/site/mycostop-fungicide.html (proven for years to knock out the nastiest of root pathogens)

8)introduce plants and keep nutes at 62F-65F begin running plants as normal pH


MOST IMPORTANTLY CORRECT THE ISSUE THAT CAUSED THE ROOT PROBLEM IN THE FIRST PLACE....SKIP THIS IMPORTANT STEP AND PREPARE FOR YOUR PROBLEMS TO RESURFACE NO MATTER WHAT BOTTLED PRODUCT YOU USE.

Hope things work out for you Gettogro.
 
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dedicated user

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Res 70 degrees, And get away from DWC and change it to Ebb and Flow, flood for 15 min let drain for 1 hour to start, and then continue extending drain duration till you start to see signs of drought at all, and then cut 15 minutes back.

Root's do not like to be drowned in water and adding bubbles doesn't help nearly as much as just placing a small pump in the res to pump the water to the surface and disturb the surface.
 
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gettogro

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roots dont look better or worse, Im expecting to see some new root growth hopefully by monday. I removed all the loose roots yesterday. The plants however look great green and lush and are spitting out 9 fan leaves on new growth which tells me they are doing ok.





Res 70 degrees, And get away from DWC and change it to Ebb and Flow, flood for 15 min let drain for 1 hour to start, and then continue extending drain duration till you start to see signs of drought at all, and then cut 15 minutes back.

Root's do not like to be drowned in water and adding bubbles doesn't help nearly as much as just placing a small pump in the res to pump the water to the surface and disturb the surface.

Post of the year.

How could we go about getting our own RDWC sub forum
 
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primeform

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This is sweet. Another farmer saw the need for RDWC and came up with the solution. Bio filter for containing benefical bacteria to combat the dreaded slime.
 
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primeform

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Heres DDs response to Medimarys question on one of his recent threads.

"Originally Posted by MediMary
Hey dds what are you using these days for root zone health, Hydrofungicide? Roots excelurator...etc.>>?
thanks

Hi Mary

I really dont use anything. An excellent chiller is really the key to not having any root problems. If your chiller is set to 62 degrees and can run the whole 12 hours and not climb any more than 2 degrees than your perfect. If this is not the case YOU WILL GET ROOT ROT sooner or later and probably many times. Pythium cant grow in nute solution under 65 or 66 degrees so if we keep our water colder than it just cant happen.... period.

Now lets talk about the different seasons, temp. of rooms. If your garden is in the basement then your not going to have the same problems as people with above ground gardens. Mine are all above ground. In the summer, late spring and early fall the air passing through my outdoor a/c condensers is warm, can be up to 80 degrees farenheit. I cant run nearly as many lights (about 10 1000 watt lights less) at this time as i can early spring, winter and late fall where the average temp during sundown would be minus 5 degrees farenheit.

This translates to a warmer grow room, alot warmer chiller room and when your chiller doesnt have cold air running through it it doesnt perform nearly as well and your water is going to get warmer. So the different seasons are going to play havoc on water temp and if you didnt shell out for the biggest chiller then your probably not going to have much success in the warmer months. I have battled with the summer for many years now and have finally decided to install a 2.5 ton friedrich a/c unit in my chiller/resevoir/lightboard and ballast room. I need to keep that room under 65 degrees or i have big problems.

As far as i am concerned with many years of expierience, the chiller is the most important piece of equipment there is..... PERIOD. Knowing what your chiller is doing, how its running and understanding how a chiller works is the 2nd most important step.

dds"




This made me laugh about all you "know it alls" in gettogros thread that have root rot and algae. Funny how no one is jumping in to call DD an idiot for just running his rez temps low like i said.

Instead you guys jump all over the only person that gave decent advice the entire thread. You guys see how well DD did with his setup you dive in head first without learning ANYTHING about it. Then you act like your gods great gift to growing because your currently running (and failing) at RDWC. Maybe if you would have researched it first and asked these questions like I am you wouldnt be in this situation now. Instead you guys all talk smack to people giving honest advice and learn nothing yourselves. This is in NO WAY directed towards gettogro. Only the negative jackasses with noting good to share and opinions without any information to back them up.
 
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MediMary

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This made me laugh about all you "know it alls" in gettogros thread that have root rot and algae. Funny how no one is jumping in to call DD an idiot for just running his rez temps low like i said. Instead you guys jump all over the only person that gave decent advice the entire thread. You guys see how well DD did with his setup you dive in head first without learning ANYTHING about it. Then you act like your gods great gift to growing because your currently running (and failing) at RDWC. Maybe if you would have researched it first and asked these questions like I am you wouldnt be in this situation now. Instead you guys all talk smack to people giving honest advice and learn nothing yourselves.

Going to set up my own RDWC this fall if time permits to show you how its done.


primeform what are you talking about man... DDS recomended lower temps over two months before this thread was ever started.


people were bagging on you over the fact you recommending Igrowslime(hygrozyme).
 
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primeform

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no shit thats where I took the recommendation 2 months ago!

ANd lets not go back to hygrozyme cuz you guys cant even figure out algae and bacteria yet.
 
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primeform

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Using Hygrozyme in pure hydroponic systems
Directions - World Garden
The function of Hygrozyme in a pure hydroponic system is that of a refined, organic, natural cleaner and facilitator.

Hygrozyme, which has Organic Materials Review Institute (OMRI) approval and an unlimited shelf-life, has a dual purpose. First, it aids in breaking down and converting dead organic material quickly and efficiently. Second, it improves the ability of the roots to absorb the valuable nutrients released from the expedited natural breakdown of dead matter.

Why is this important?

A closed hydroponic system the build-up of dead organic material can encourage the development of diseases or pathogens. Often this sort of build-up happens in difficult to reach and clean places such as pipes and pumps, where there are little pockets and spaces that are nearly impossible for anyone to keep sterile. Prevention is the best way to protect your plants by not giving pests and diseases hospitable conditions.

Even a short period of time is enough for a hydroponic system to become contaminated. Quick intervention is essential to protect the roots of your plants.

Why Hygrozyme?

Enzyme formulas are considered the gold standard for sterilization in the medical industry for surgical instruments and other medical supplies. If Hygrozyme is used as directed from the start, in a clean system, it will prevent the build-up of debris and the vulnerability to disease and pathogens. It is very effective in keeping systems clean.

Hygrozyme is the only known solution on the market that can be used in conjunction with hydrogen peroxide in a ppm of 1-2% solution, a combination used by many operators to clean, sterilize and oxygenate roots.

It is important to note that Hygrozyme is a natural plant enzyme. It does not kill anything. To be effective, it is best used before bio film build up grabs hold in your system, causing complications and producing an environment ideal for problems such as Pythium. While some growers have reported Hygrozyme has arrested root rot, it has to be caught early and treated with vigilance.

Prevention, even for plants, is the best medicine and the prescription of choice is Hygrozyme.
 
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