Replacing air stones with waterfalls in RDWC

  • Thread starter ttystikk
  • Start date
  • Tagged users None
Green Giant

Green Giant

284
43
I have been fallowing along with this thread since the start. Thanks for all the great info!

You said this would work in a UC system.

Would each site have a waterfall in it or just the epicenter/head bucket?

If it is just the epicenter/head bucket, wouldn't the water flow bring the DO rich water to the other sites?
 
Theoneandonly Z

Theoneandonly Z

1,342
263
For sure do not confine your roots in a bag. JK

Too late.. curiosity is about to kill this cat. You should see my RDWC vortex design, i highly doubt it will work and would probably cost me an unnecessary amount of time and $... something about small side projects really get to me. Thanks for the reassurance though;)

If you are putting your mothers in a sys like that to get large number of cuts I can understand that. If not I would keep my mothers in a more stable environment.JK

u hit the nail on the head. I take 30-40% more than what i need, "selection" is my new slogan when it comes to clones.
 
ttystikk

ttystikk

6,892
313
I have been fallowing along with this thread since the start. Thanks for all the great info!

You said this would work in a UC system.

Would each site have a waterfall in it or just the epicenter/head bucket?

If it is just the epicenter/head bucket, wouldn't the water flow bring the DO rich water to the other sites?

Every site needs it.
 
Theoneandonly Z

Theoneandonly Z

1,342
263
^^^^
resize_Venturi.gif
 
L

larebowm

350
63
If your pump is strong enough you could run your water fall above your bucket through a larger piece of pvc. instead of dumping into the bucket directly.i wouldnt use a coupling I'd just pour it in the top of the pipe so she gets air. Th Ong is if the roots art allowing water churn you'll still have a dead zone in your bucket.
 
L

larebowm

350
63
just reread my post lol i shouldnt post from phone lol.but you get my general idea
 
ttystikk

ttystikk

6,892
313
That's what I was thinking, but what happens when the site fills with roots? That would render the water fall useless. Can you see any way around this?

I may have mentioned this somewhere, but when inspecting the rootmass, I've noticed that the continual stream of water pushes the roots out of its way a bit, maintaining flow, splash and thus DO.


LOL smartass! Let us kids have our fun playin' in da water!

In all seriousness, things look pretty good to me in both zones I'm running waterfall style airless aeration, every bit as good as the control zones with airstones. So far, at least the way I'm doing it in 27 gallon tuffboxes with water fittings in the lid, it's living up to its promise.

JK also pointed out that placing my plants in the corners of those tuffboxes would likely lead to less roots by restricting airflow- and he was right on the money with that prediction. The plant sizes I have now aren't affected, but as I scale up in individual plant size it's something I'll need to watch carefully.

I'm really liking the no air pump thing, though- not only is it not there to run hot and cost electricity to operate, but it's now much more soothing in the room,with just the sounds of fans and the gurgle of water falling into puddles just out of view...
 
J

Jalisco Kid

Guest
I may have mentioned this somewhere, but when inspecting the rootmass, I've noticed that the continual stream of water pushes the roots out of its way a bit, maintaining flow, splash and thus DO.



LOL smartass! Let us kids have our fun playin' in da water!

In all seriousness, things look pretty good to me in both zones I'm running waterfall style airless aeration, every bit as good as the control zones with airstones. So far, at least the way I'm doing it in 27 gallon tuffboxes with water fittings in the lid, it's living up to its promise.
I see problems with the state of water and the plants roots. Aeration was not something I was thinking about when I wrote to you. JK
JK also pointed out that placing my plants in the corners of those tuffboxes would likely lead to less roots by restricting airflow- and he was right on the money with that prediction. The plant sizes I have now aren't affected, but as I scale up in individual plant size it's something I'll need to watch carefully.

I'm really liking the no air pump thing, though- not only is it not there to run hot and cost electricity to operate, but it's now much more soothing in the room,with just the sounds of fans and the gurgle of water falling into puddles just out of view...
 
J

Jalisco Kid

Guest
My message did not post above.
I mentioned the corner spot,but not for those reasons. Water flow is good in some important ways. JK
 
The Groff

The Groff

16
3
Finally I find a place where I can join a debate I'm trying to have for who knows how long. Yeeeey!!

I'm on my first RDWC run with new system developed in the UK.. Way cooler than UC ... imho... Google Alien Hydroponic if you're interested. Anyway, back to this debate, I eager to ditch the airpumps too. Here are my findings that I hope people comment on. I'm new to RDWC, did my homework, but still lots to learn.

Ok, so as far as I know, the best, most effective and energy efficient way to increase DO is through vortex, then fluming (or flooming), then venturi, then waterfall, lastly airpump.

Vortex;
Way to complicated to adapt to RDWC. Must be made constructed from scratch.

Fluming/Flooming

My favorite. Problem is root ball will quickly block the necessary bulge at the water surface.

Venturi;

The problem with venturi using a powerheard 135gph (500LPH)... I know its not alot, but was testing... is that;

a) passive air intake = unfiltered, extremely poor performance, and the venturi nozzle has to be very near the surface or the water pressure just a few inches under water will stop sucking air... I cant understand why though.
b) active air intake = bubble heaven, super performance, but uses the damn airpump.

Waterfall

Same problem as fluming, though I have some thoughts. First though, is the notion of DO. I cannot for the life of me find actual data on how long H20 is able to hold water once it has been saturated. I only have one anecdotal "paper" that suggests 24h, but a quick look into vortex brewing kits on youtube showed decreaase from 8ppm down to 7ppm in seconds when the vortex stopped. Now maybe this is just a sudden drop until "stabler" saturation that holds for longer... i dont know I would appreciate schooling.

Another is the 1 foot "mandatory" drop to create splash and induce oxygen transfer. I find no actual evidence for this, please point me to it. I mean, a big hose dumping a big volume, sure, big height needed, big splash needed. Makes sense.

But what if you split that huge diameter into multiple smaller ones with something like this;

AQUARIUM AND POND JP 082


(forget the rest, look at the "top wash device" thing)... I've seen them around in shops, dont know the actual name.

If DO is at good level with the dynamic nature of RDWC, what you really need is a maximum quality of nutrient mix n' flow, which is a problem mid/late flowering.

My idea is to have a big main recirc inline pump (included with the RDWC kit) and ditch the airpump for little 4w (or less) powerheads in each site. We could have a regular powerhead with one of these sucking the nutrient mix from the bottom of each site to the top, through the "top wash thing", pointed to the SIDE of the bucket, not the netpot or the surface.

Because if one can effectively increase DO somewhat and maintain it with a good flow, that is more than enough for mega yields. The rest is a proper green thumb. There is no "real" need to reach the theoretical 9ppm @ 19ºC (66ºF) except if root disease strikes.

But, since its a much smaller flow out of each little hole. then the splashing aginst the side of the bucket, netpot height, would create

a) highly increased TOTAL water volume surface area "affected". No need for 1 foot fall, in fact the less distance to the bucket the stronger the surface tension disruption = less noise
b) massive surface tension disruption = massive DO saturation anyways!
c) independent of root mass size
d) gzillion water splashes will increase RH inside the bucket, making baby rootlings explode

The only real issue is preventing the intake of the powerhead from clogging when the root mass gets massive. That can be a problem, but one that I am happy to tackle if I can shut up the damn airpump.

Going to try this next run, currently have both my systems 2 weeks into 12/12 and dont want to mess with them right now, they had a troublesome veg.

Did that make any sense? What do you think?
.
 
Last edited:
jordanthegreat

jordanthegreat

11
3
@ttystikk Whats up bro? how did the ladies in the waterfall tybs work out for you? I took the plunge and installed waterfall style tubs for my moms and retrofitted one of my flower systems to run on the same principles. The one thing i noticed is that they are growing so much faster than the strait undercurrent buckets... as far as the tunnel o dank, round 1 look more like the half pipe o dank. Theres the sole flick i snapped of tunnel o dank v1.0
20140107 141745
 
Delerium

Delerium

783
93
If his flood table has a lid, then just continuously running the fill pump and letting excess water drain back through the return/overflow will oxygenate the system just fine. I've heard about issues with trying to oxygenate a 'dead reservoir' style ebb n flood, but I bet they would be solved with a continuous flow approach.

One thing I would change if I were to run this is that in my ebb n flood trays, the inlet and overflow are right next to each other. I'd relocate one of these to the opposite side of the table, so water would flow across and ensure all plants see fresh nutes.
Ran one for veg that exact way, fill and drain on either side, I used an airstone for a bit but eliminated it their was enough oxygenation going on. I still have this crazy contraption where I drilled out a 2x4 tray and put it upside down over another 2x4, like a to-go box so the roots would dangle in the solution through flower. Worked great Wish I did it in a 4x4 with larger net pots.
 
Desertboy

Desertboy

1,414
263
I could be wrong im really new at this but i believe waterfall is better for D.O. than fluming.bbut if im wrong send me the info im always learning

It's all about surface area the more surface area you expose to the air the more O2 can be absorbed I would think either flooming or waterfall it would make little difference it is possible to over oxygenate the reservoir!

A common misconception is that waterfalls or airstone inject O2 into the reservoir all they do is churn the water over and expose more surface area to the air.
 
HottyToddy

HottyToddy

72
18
You're dead on @Desertboy

The waterfall method displaces enough water making air stones unnecessary if done correctly with a jet stream of water in each site.
 
Top Bottom