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Are your roots staying white? That is the most important factor. Can we see a pic of them? Even their structure will tell alot.So it dawned on me this morning something I had forgotten to mention back when I replaced 1/2 the water on 7/1 that I should have. When I got this unit I did as the instructions said - wash hydro off good. But when I did the 1/2 water replacement, I noticed a LOT of "sediment" in the bottom that was clearly hydro chips. It was like some had just fallen apart or something. At the time it was very clean looking and in my haste did not do anything about it. I suspect that is what this was - granted the sliminess of it is surely an issue I suspect. As far as order of feeding, I got that completely wrong. I did use measured "doses" but the way I did it was to add it all into a small amount of water and then add that water into the reservoir portions at a time to ensure I did not overdose the water. So I guess from the plant perspective, it got all of it at once. I will make note of that now for future feedings.
OK I will work on that. Honestly I meant to when you first told me to but got distracted and forgot. I had thought about using that flex seal tape that is black and just wrapping my bucket in it. Have not checked res temp in a long time. Seems when I did it was mid 70s. I will check next time I am in there.Yea the root structure is that of dwc but they do look like they got some of that slime on them. If that stuff is algae then you need to eliminate more light leaks. I would just incase. Those hole where the airlines go in, well that tube acts like fiber optics with light. I would tape them off down to about the bottom of the bucket, then wrap those buckets in bathtowels. The towel stops light from entering and helps keep a more stable res temp.
What was your res temps?
so res temp is 80f. today PH went up to 6 and PPM dropped to 171OK I will work on that. Honestly I meant to when you first told me to but got distracted and forgot. I had thought about using that flex seal tape that is black and just wrapping my bucket in it. Have not checked res temp in a long time. Seems when I did it was mid 70s. I will check next time I am in there.
thanks!
Yea warm res temps are very very difficult to run in hydro. Shoot for 70f since your running hydroguard. Put that airpump in a cooler area if possible too. Its also ok to touch your roots lightly. You can actually get the slime off the roots fairly easy by wiping it off with your hands.OK I will work on that. Honestly I meant to when you first told me to but got distracted and forgot. I had thought about using that flex seal tape that is black and just wrapping my bucket in it. Have not checked res temp in a long time. Seems when I did it was mid 70s. I will check next time I am in there.
thanks!
Yea thats the start of root rot. You need to wash all that stuff off the roots, and put it in new solution. Double the dose of hydroguard, get the res temps down, and stop the light from getting in there. This will kill your plant within a few weeks if not kept under control. I would also fully sumberge that netpot so the hydroguard can work a little better.so res temp is 80f. today PH went up to 6 and PPM dropped to 171
ph was 5, went to 6
ppm was 225, went to 171
temp 80
roots look like it is continuing to look funky.
aside from bottom leaf, plant itself appears to be moving forward.
View attachment 1262819View attachment 1262820
Will do and thanks. I failed to mention I am battling an A/C issue so temps have gone up. Been going for 2 weeks now. Today here the temp is 110 outside. A/C shut down a bit ago. Its not all the time but it is not helping. To make matters worse the chiller I ordered was due last week and now shows delivered but nowhere to be found. I will work on it in the morning.Yea warm res temps are very very difficult to run in hydro. Shoot for 70f since your running hydroguard. Put that airpump in a cooler area if possible too. Its also ok to touch your roots lightly. You can actually get the slime off the roots fairly easy by wiping it off with your hands.
Yea thats the start of root rot. You need to wash all that stuff off the roots, and put it in new solution. Double the dose of hydroguard, get the res temps down, and stop the light from getting in there. This will kill your plant within a few weeks if not kept under control. I would also fully sumberge that netpot so the hydroguard can work a little better.
300 should be fine since your swapping so frequently. Generally when running low ppms at just eats it quicker.Will do and thanks. I failed to mention I am battling an A/C issue so temps have gone up. Been going for 2 weeks now. Today here the temp is 110 outside. A/C shut down a bit ago. Its not all the time but it is not helping. To make matters worse the chiller I ordered was due last week and now shows delivered but nowhere to be found. I will work on it in the morning.
I am not questioning it but I replaced water 2 days ago entirely. When I add nutrients, I will follow the order you mentioned. Suggested PPM?
I'd prefer not to swap so often but w/e it takes to keep em going in the right direction I surely will. Here is current prep300 should be fine since your swapping so frequently. Generally when running low ppms at just eats it quicker.
DATE | Note | PH | PPFD | Temp | PPM | CalMag | Micro | Grow | Bloom | Hydro tsp |
7/19 | Replace water 2x hydroguard. rootrot | 6 | full | 77 | 341 | 1.2tsp | 1tsp | 3/4tsp | 3/4tsp | 1.75tsp |
Hell yea man. All that looks good. K would go down to 5.5 or 5.6 ph. . then let it climb to 6ph. I never let it stay at 6.0. Im guessing you've grown in soil before because they generally like higher ph.I'd prefer not to swap so often but w/e it takes to keep em going in the right direction I surely will. Here is current prep
Washed roots, washed bucket, working to wrap bucket. Inadvertently added a bit too much CalMag
Current Res I am going to use - will be moving it to this once i wash bucket and get it wrapped up
DATE Note PH PPFD Temp PPM CalMag Micro Grow Bloom Hydro
tsp
7/19 Replace water 2x hydroguard. rootrot 6 full 77 341 1.2tsp 1tsp 3/4tsp 3/4tsp 1.75tsp
Thanks for all your help! I will drop the PH - wanted to see what you thought. I thought I had read that the PH should up to around 6 but I guess that is later? Or I may be reading bad info. Good to know - I will mix them up. And wow 2 Gallons? That is crazy. I am hoping to find some time to work on reservoirs soon - bigger. Work is hectic even though I work sitting right next to these...Hell yea man. All that looks good. K would go down to 5.5 or 5.6 ph. . then let it climb to 6ph. I never let it stay at 6.0. Im guessing you've grown in soil before because they generally like higher ph.
You wont hurt it by adding too much calmag. Its also good to stir it up once or twice a day in dwc. I use a pump to keep it mixed. The air pumps do a horrible job at mixing nutrients.
Yet once you get established roots that fill the bucket. . ur fine lol. . they will be drinking up to 2 gallons a day.
Any thoughts on the cause? Just light breaking through?Also once you figure out that residue issue you wont have to dump so much or so frequently. Generally with dwc you just top off until you added your starting amount. Say 5 gallons starting and once u have added 5 gallons of nutrients dump it all and start fresh. The res changes become more frequent as the plant grows.
Thanks for all your help! I will drop the PH - wanted to see what you thought. I thought I had read that the PH should up to around 6 but I guess that is later? Or I may be reading bad info. Good to know - I will mix them up. And wow 2 Gallons? That is crazy. I am hoping to find some time to work on reservoirs soon - bigger. Work is hectic even though I work sitting right next to these...
Appreciate the help!
Ill try to explain, and im sure im not 100% correct, but I have a theory.y thoughts on the cause? Just light breaking through?
I'll bite ;) nah, @Cashmeh is 100% correct. I run sterile for sake of ease -- nothing more, nothing less. It's just easier for me to not worry about aerating my res because I run 5ml/gallon of 34% h2o2 and am refreshing the res at max every three days, at minimum daily. With those intervals there's no time for the h2o2 to completely neutralize. Secondly, I don't recirculate (for now... i have previously) so sterile is also more cost effective.Anways, most people run sterile systems, and would like to prolly argue what I said above, stating that their method is actually healthier but id debate that.
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