russet mites

[CannaCrone]

Here are some pics. The first 2, if they post in order, are of the plant that was the worst hit. I almost pulled it but decided to let her go and see what happens. Glad I did. She will still give me some nice buds. I have since removed most of the deformed lower branches. The third pic shows that same plant in the foreground and a visitor to my garden looking up at the one not hit as hard in the background.

 

[caregiverken]

@Capulator Doesnt your Bio war Foliar have BT in it?
( guess I coulda looked it up)
I also need to look up prices on a few buckets of it for next year, lol

 

[nightmarecreature]

@Capulator Doesnt your Bio war Foliar have BT in it?
( guess I coulda looked it up)
I also need to look up prices on a few buckets of it for next year, lol

His stuff does have BT. I run OGBiowar all three packs. I like the root and nute packs but the foliar pack only knocks down bugs for about 2-3 days, then they are back. I foliar and root drench. When I do that with the Conserve SC, I dont see any bugs for atleast 20-30 days.

 

[Capulator]

@Capulator Doesnt your Bio war Foliar have BT in it?
( guess I coulda looked it up)
I also need to look up prices on a few buckets of it for next year, lol

yeah man the foliar pack has BT israeliensis and BT kurstaki.

Update: We have been doing regular sprays with the either the OGBiowar or Met52 and bugs are dead. Girls are thriving and putting on weight. My garden is rebounding better than hubby's and there were only 2 differences. I used OGB first and with a paint sprayer and got a good fog throughout the garden. Hubby used a hand pump sprayer and said he did a very thorough job. Knowing him, I'm sure that is true. After running out of OGB we switched to Met52. It works too but I don't like the stuff. It is a black oil that sits on top of the water. The way the company I bought it from explained it was that the emulsifiers in it carry the spores throughout the water and the oil just floats on top. You have to keep agitating it. There are some little black spots of that oil on the plants that I do not like. But the stuff does work. But for my money, I'm switching back and sticking to the OGB. The plants LOVE, LOVE it!

After seeing the difference in my plants, hubby brought me samples of his girls that were still having trouble and I saw there were still active bugs crawling around. Lots of dead ones too but too much activity still. He loaded up the paint sprayer I used and the generator to run it (is why he didn't use it the first time) and did the fog thing with the Met52 in his garden. 2 days later took samples again and NO MOVING BUGS. Another couple of days and still fewer bugs left on the plants and no more moving bugs.

Anecdotal evidence would suggest the delivery of the treatments make a difference. That is really the only thing we did different from each other. We both just sprayed bT for budworms as a preventative and will keep using the Met52 until it runs out or until the new order of OGB gets here. I have some pics of the new growth and will post them after this. Suffice it to say I am super happy to have at least knocked down these bastards with organic controls - despite the naysayers. I think so much depends upon thoroughness, consistency in timing, and dare I say, a positive attitude in the garden. The girls don't like negative vibes.

That is such good news. I tell people it is important to be thorough and consistent. I also use a paint sprayer when I spray root and foliar packs, and I drench them so plenty of runoff gets in to the top soil. It's awesome that there is a natural way to beat these suckers. I have been getting a lot of questions regarding the efficacy of the Foliar pack on russets this past month. It seems people everywhere are being hit hard by them. How often were you applying to see the results you are seeing now? I would like to pass on that info and your method to others so that they can beat their infestations as well.

 

[nightmarecreature]

Humidity is important when applying any spray, the longer its on the better. High humidity keeps the spray on longer, no matter what you use.

 

[nightmarecreature]

I cant wait till people stop messing around with all these products that have partial knockdown power. Ive used most of them. They help but will never get total eradication. Instead people will buy a few things here and there, exceeding the price of the Conserve. Products used by agriculture are the ones that really work.

The Conserve doesnt even need regular sprays, one treatment and its adios to all bugs!

 

[CannaCrone]

yeah man the foliar pack has BT israeliensis and BT kurstaki.



That is such good news. I tell people it is important to be thorough and consistent. I also use a paint sprayer when I spray root and foliar packs, and I drench them so plenty of runoff gets in to the top soil. It's awesome that there is a natural way to beat these suckers. I have been getting a lot of questions regarding the efficacy of the Foliar pack on russets this past month. It seems people everywhere are being hit hard by them. How often were you applying to see the results you are seeing now? I would like to pass on that info and your method to others so that they can beat their infestations as well.

@Capulator I brewed the tea formula from your site using my own EWC from worms that I raise. Pretty much followed those instructions to the letter. I sprayed every 3-5 days with the full strength tea. When I started at a section of the plant, by the time I got around it and back to where I started, the plant had already absorbed the solution so I hit it again. So each plant got 2 rounds of heavy fog. I swear they reacted IMMEDIATELY! My husband commented on that aspect of it too. They stood up and took notice is the best way to describe it. Like they were thanking me for the relief. Why not use something that works AND the plants so noticeably love? I could be a spokesperson for this stuff! LOL! It truly has made an all-around difference. THANK YOU!

 

[nightmarecreature]

@CannaCrone ; Great News! and Great post! Great to hear that!
I looked at soo many threads about russets and so many people said Organics would not work.
Lots of growers said nothing worked.
:confused:
Now, its as easy as Bio war..
Or Spinosad?

I was scared shitless.. I sprayed a pound of Bio War in 20 gals of water
(10 gal sprayed twice, a few days apart)
I agree the Paint sprayer it the hot ticket..best investment i made.
..My plants are recovering nicely too.
Still scary though:nailbiting:

Your problem will be solved on Tuesday! Post back on the results bro! I know you will be happy. People are being Converted slowly but everyone who has used the Conserve with 100% success and 100% conversion.

 

[CannaCrone]

I cant wait till people stop messing around with all these products that have partial knockdown power. Ive used most of them. They help but will never get total eradication. Instead people will buy a few things here and there, exceeding the price of the Conserve. Products used by agriculture are the ones that really work.

The Conserve doesnt even need regular sprays, one treatment and its adios to all bugs!

I have the Conserve saved on my "To Get" list as an item to have on hand. But I will still use the OGB even if I have no insects to kill. The plants just love it and take a jump each time I apply it in the tea formula.

Do you know whether the Conserve kills beneficial insects? I try to not harm those. I also keep bees so am super careful on what I spray around here and the timing of them.

 

[caregiverken]

Your problem will be solved on Tuesday! Post back on the results bro! I know you will be happy. People are being Converted slowly but everyone who has used the Conserve with 100% success and 100% conversion.

Thanks Again Man :) I wish I woulda got it sooner
My plants already look great though...cept the old damage..
I have been scoping em and have not seen anything moving at all
All the new growth is undamaged..Im pretty sure they are all dead.
a lot of my plants still have a ways to go till harvest..4 maybe 5 even 6 weeks or more
So, that bottle of Conserve will be very handy.

This one in the greenhouse was hit hard by the russets.
She is just getting started flowering..glad she is under a roof.

 

[TSTEW313]

So you got the conserve SC Ken

 

[caregiverken]

So you got the conserve SC Ken

it's in the mail..friggin holidays..
I should have checked the grow shop..but they suck.

 

[TSTEW313]

Yeah no grow shops carry the conserve SC around me. The conserve SC go's along way because you need to use very little to kill the bugs!

 

[caregiverken]

This one was hit hard too. Tacoed leaves like crazy
.and she is my biggest. Im so glad I was able to save her..

She looks like she will take a while to finish too.

 

[TSTEW313]

She is a monster ken

 

[Bjamiam]

A few important questions:
1. What's the consensus on the russet mite lifecycle. Does it ever venture into the soil? Is tanglefoot a good way to slow them down and an adjunct treatment method? Does tanglefoot in any way promote rot or problems on the plants main stalk?

2. Is this shit for real??? any users? Will it hinder the bennies (OG BIO and Met 52)


3. Will foliar met 52/super concentrated spinosad/OG Bio War foliar be compromised by this product, nuke em or might wash?? Is there a routine to follow using all of them? Cap told me to wait 4 days after treating with his bennies or using mighty wash or nuke em. Let's say you treat with all the bennies(met 52 + OG Bio + spinosad) are you better off rotating in a mighty wash or nuke em or are you better off just spraying with the bennies again and attempting to dominate the bugs with the fungus/bacteria and not use mighty wash or nuke em???

My timeline is such: First I saw/identified them, talked to grow store stoners about them and subsequently shit in my pants. Then I sprayed nuke em, then mighty wash, then a product called Guard ( homemade Met 52 from some Phd guy sold at Redwood Nursery) in conjunction with a super concentrated spinosad. Then organicide 3-1. Then more Guard/Spinosad. Cut off and burned all damaged flowers. Still seeing them under the scope at reduced numbers. What should I do??? please help. Outdoor in southern oregon

 

[CannaCrone]

A few important questions:
1. What's the consensus on the russet mite lifecycle. Does it ever venture into the soil? Is tanglefoot a good way to slow them down and an adjunct treatment method? Does tanglefoot in any way promote rot or problems on the plants main stalk?

2. Is this shit for real??? any users? Will it hinder the bennies (OG BIO and Met 52)


3. Will foliar met 52/super concentrated spinosad/OG Bio War foliar be compromised by this product, nuke em or might wash?? Is there a routine to follow using all of them? Cap told me to wait 4 days after treating with his bennies or using mighty wash or nuke em. Let's say you treat with all the bennies(met 52 + OG Bio + spinosad) are you better off rotating in a mighty wash or nuke em or are you better off just spraying with the bennies again and attempting to dominate the bugs with the fungus/bacteria and not use mighty wash or nuke em???

My timeline is such: First I saw/identified them, talked to grow store stoners about them and subsequently shit in my pants. Then I sprayed nuke em, then mighty wash, then a product called Guard ( homemade Met 52 from some Phd guy sold at Redwood Nursery) in conjunction with a super concentrated spinosad. Then organicide 3-1. Then more Guard/Spinosad. Cut off and burned all damaged flowers. Still seeing them under the scope at reduced numbers. What should I do??? please help. Outdoor in southern oregon

I don't know anything about the Dr. Zymes. But if it is yeast and/or bacterium derived, then I would assume the other products you mentioned to use in rotation would have a negative effect on the bios products. Any product, organic or not, that has anti-fungal activity would likely interfere with, if not altogether halt, the effectiveness of the bios. I am not a scientist so don't take it as gospel. I am using a rotation indoors as follows, OGB or Met52, wait a few days then use Nuke Em (out of Mighty Wash at the moment but you could use it in place of NE) wait another week then apply more OGB. At one point I washed all the moms by dunking in a bucket of soapy water (Dr. Bronners)and rinsing to get off all the other products and resprayed the OGB sooner than the planned rotation. The rotations may not be necessary but I almost lost some of my mothers so I am doing overkill right now. Clearly dunk washing is not possible for outdoor plants. The point is, I would be leery of using anti-fungals in close rotation of biologicals.

FWIW, I used Mighty Wash, Nuke Em, and spinosad (Monterey, not the higher percentage Conserve which others are saying works too) in the beginning and none of those products made much of a dent in the critters for me in my garden. They might help in someone else's but they didn't mine. Things took a dramatic turn for the better with my first application of OGB. It took a couple of days to see dead bugs but they died en masse. Then all I saw were dead and dying bugs. Now I see some dead bugs but even those numbers are getting fewer with each sample I look at.

Edit: I used Tanglefoot one time on some large outdoor plants. I put it directly on the stalks. The stalks literally absorbed it and turned black where the Tanglefoot was. Some nice trees died. The others struggled through but didn't yield as much. I don't use it on the girls at all now but if I did again, it would only be spread on a band of something which was wrapped around the stalk.

 

[AcidSourDank]

I sprayed that Dr. Zymes on part of my garden tonight. After I was almost finsihed I realized that I had forgotten to do a water wash first to wash off the remaining sulfur that I had sprayed a few days ago. I had been concerned that the sulfur would have a negative effect on the enzymes. Hopefully the sulfur didn't effect things so I can give a proper report of the effectiveness of Dr. Zymes. I definitely think that mixing things up is crucial to success with these bugs. I was depending too much on Avid and Forbid.

I'm going to pick up some more Dr. Zymes to treat the main garden. (Prewash to clean residue from previous Avid spraying?) Then I'm going to Met 52, Conserve SC and then Movento.

I'm really curious if the Met 52 or the Dr. Zymes could be supercharged by mixing with insect frass tea and oxygenating. I'm a chemist but right now I'm wishing I was a biologist. Any thoughts on the enhanced activity with frass?

 

[Seamaiden]

That's a good question. I do include frass topdressings and teas now that I have a good colony of mealworms going, but I can't speak to much more beyond that.

I have the Conserve saved on my "To Get" list as an item to have on hand. But I will still use the OGB even if I have no insects to kill. The plants just love it and take a jump each time I apply it in the tea formula.

Do you know whether the Conserve kills beneficial insects? I try to not harm those. I also keep bees so am super careful on what I spray around here and the timing of them.

It should not be harmful. Spinosad is the one that was found to possibly be harmful to honey bees, so I spray it in the evening only. I haven't found anything that says residue is a problem.

 

[Dunge]

I'm really curious if the Met 52 or the Dr. Zymes could be supercharged by mixing with insect frass tea and oxygenating. I'm a chemist but right now I'm wishing I was a biologist. Any thoughts on the enhanced activity with frass?

As a circa '70s trained biologist, I can't see how frass could 'supercharge' an enzyme tea.
Frass would feed microbes, and perhaps allow some of the enzymes to work, but creating more active enzymes is unlikely.
It's more likely that the microbes will eat your enzymes.