I've been at 18/6 since the beginning. I was always under the impression that autos should always get 18/6 throughout their life since they handle their own scheduling for flower.Are you on 12/12, big auto, that should produce the goods.
Not much of a recommendation lol.... technically all hydro feeding charts say “top off with ph balanced water” on them all though botanicare is weird theirs says 77f is their optimal for oxygen and aeration.I've been at 18/6 since the beginning. I was always under the impression that autos should always get 18/6 throughout their life since they handle their own scheduling for flower.
I just checked on her water levels and had to add back almost another 3 gallons.
Ec is now 240
Ph is 6.3
I'm not adding any nutes or hydroguard back when refilling the water, just checking pH after adding water and fixing if needed.(as per recommendations in this thread)
I'd scope the bottom of the spotted leaves for mites.Just wanted to post a little update.... Seems that pulling the wilting one has helped the growing one. She's been getting WAY too bushy (and I can't cut her since she's an auto and will take longer and hurt yeilds) but that's a good thing right??
But, I'm noticing some odd yellow spots on some of the leaves. Didn't find anything under the leaves so don't know. Hope someone can help...
Day : 51 since Germ
Temp: 67night - 76F day
Water temps: about 68- 70F with hudroguard
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If I see the ec drop significantly then I'll know she's eating like crazy right? Right now it's eating up water like crazy and nutes a little here and there.Hey guy, I have never grown autos myself, and I've heard they're picky about not liking a lot of nutes... however, 35 years of growing experience (plus your statement that you're only giving 670 ppm) tells me via the photo that that plant is just straight-up hungry. It's in the stage where it needs the most nutes, and you're giving it survival rations. IMHO, you DO need to pump up the nutes to 800-1000+ ppm—like now.