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Sixstrings Led Cob Builds

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Sixstrings Led Cob Builds

sixstring 1,139 Replies 221,343 Views
Page 51 of 57 · Replies 1,001–1,020 of 1,140
#1,001
sixstring said:
Idk there's something going on with those 2 companies right now.i guess if you email timber you can still have qb fixtures made until stock is gone.but it's weird they took everything off the site
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Confirmed. They will still make QB’s until out of stock. Went to purchase a QB yesterday and flipped to COB. Should be here next week!:cool:
 
#1,004
Hey @sixstring, when replacing one of your old HPS lights, did you ever consider building a smaller set up, but put it on a light mover? I'm trying to find creative ways to replace a Gavita 6/750 in a 5x5 tent. I also have an air cooled Gavita 300 LEP, but I like that light and want to keep it in the set up, unless I can build a better replacement. I was thinking a set up like your two board light on previous page, with the 300 LEP in the middle and everything on a mover.
 
#1,007
Digger said:
Hey @sixstring, when replacing one of your old HPS lights, did you ever consider building a smaller set up, but put it on a light mover? I'm trying to find creative ways to replace a Gavita 6/750 in a 5x5 tent. I also have an air cooled Gavita 300 LEP, but I like that light and want to keep it in the set up, unless I can build a better replacement. I was thinking a set up like your two board light on previous page, with the 300 LEP in the middle and everything on a mover.
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or do 4 of these on the corners of the 300lep,drive them soft at 100w each would be bangin that 5x5 space :cool:
https://horticulturelightinggroup.com/collections/all/products/qb96-elite-v2-quantum-board-engine
 
#1,008
sixstring said:
or do 4 of these on the corners of the 300lep,drive them soft at 100w each would be bangin that 5x5 space :cool:
https://horticulturelightinggroup.com/collections/all/products/qb96-elite-v2-quantum-board-engine
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Thank you! Is this correct? If I wanted one driver to power all 4 boards, I would need a HLG-480H-54. 54v to get the boards to turn on, it supplies 480w, so that's 120w available for each board, and it pulls 8.9 amps, 2 amps per board and the board is rated for 4 amps. If I wanted to get the 200w out of each board, I would need two of these drivers. Is that the right understanding?

And I dont think Mean Well's fail too often so there wouldn't be a need to buy (2) HLG-240's instead of (1) 480, is that a safe assumption?

I went and looked around, I left the driver above to still ask, but I think I need something like a HLG-480H-C2100. Because I need (54x4=216v). And this driver could do everything I typed above, not the 480-54 because it only puts out 54v and I need 216.
 
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#1,009
Digger said:
Thank you! Is this correct? If I wanted one driver to power all 4 boards, I would need a HLG-480H-54. 54v to get the boards to turn on, it supplies 480w, so that's 120w available for each board, and it pulls 8.9 amps, 2 amps per board and the board is rated for 4 amps. If I wanted to get the 200w out of each board, I would need two of these drivers. Is that the right understanding?

And I dont think Mean Well's fail too often so there wouldn't be a need to buy (2) HLG-240's instead of (1) 480, is that a safe assumption?

I went and looked around, I left the driver above to still ask, but I think I need something like a HLG-480H-C2100. Because I need (54x4=216v). And this driver could do everything I typed above, not the 480-54 because it only puts out 54v and I need 216.
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Both drivers should work. It's about how you wire your boards. Either series or parallel. With the 54 driver you would be wiring parallel if those boards take 54V with the c2100 driver you would be wiring in series.
 
#1,011
Toaster79 said:
Both drivers should work. It's about how you wire your boards. Either series or parallel. With the 54 driver you would be wiring parallel if those boards take 54V with the c2100 driver you would be wiring in series.
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Thank you Toaster!! Is one way better than the other? Doesn't one way offer protection to the other boards if one blows? Or is that in the driver and doesn't have to do with how they are wired?

Toaster79 said:
What chips are those? They're suggesting 170-200W for that board?
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Are LED chips like HID bulbs, where if they arent driven hard enough they dont reach the right K temp and the spectrum changes?
 
#1,012
Digger said:
Thank you Toaster!! Is one way better than the other? Doesn't one way offer protection to the other boards if one blows? Or is that in the driver and doesn't have to do with how they are wired?



Are LED chips like HID bulbs, where if they arent driven hard enough they dont reach the right K temp and the spectrum changes?
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Nope, spectrum dont change with newer leds out there (qb's,cobs).
 
#1,014
Digger said:
Thank you Toaster!! Is one way better than the other? Doesn't one way offer protection to the other boards if one blows? Or is that in the driver and doesn't have to do with how they are wired?



Are LED chips like HID bulbs, where if they arent driven hard enough they dont reach the right K temp and the spectrum changes?
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When wiring parallel all those boards share equal part of the current delivered by the driver. Now let's say you have 4 boards sharing 8A. If one board dies the other 3 are still gonna share those 8A so they won't be getting 2A anymore but 2.666A. So they start running at higher temp because of that and slowly start overheating. Now when another board die and you're left with 2, those get each 4A and run even hotter. So if another one of those 2 dies the last one will be getting the whole 8A and you know what comes next.

If wired in series and running constant current when one board dies there will all go out as the circuit is broken so nothing else gets harmed anymore.

At least in theory.

Regarding spectrum. You will have some CCT shift at different drive currents. With lower drive current CCT will shift towards warmer colours and with higher drive current spectrum will shift towards colder colours. The difference is not too obvious but it's there.
 
#1,015
Toaster79 said:
Both drivers should work. It's about how you wire your boards. Either series or parallel. With the 54 driver you would be wiring parallel if those boards take 54V with the c2100 driver you would be wiring in series.
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Yes

Toaster79 said:
What chips are those? They're suggesting 170-200W for that board?
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Lumileds and luminous

Toaster79 said:
Wrong. CCT will shift at different power.
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Yes but the color shift is extremely minor and with hid lamps it's a huge change of color to dim.
Those boards can handle 4amps each but good luck cooling it lol.at 100w per board they should be bright as fuck,super cool,and last twice as long as most led setups,unless your that guy that runs cree 3590 at 35w (me) :cool:
 
#1,016
You could also use a hlg 600-54 to parallel 4 to 8 boards I'm sure.so many driver options,just like a qb288. Only difference is these can handle way more power
 
#1,018
Toaster79 said:
When wiring parallel all those boards share equal part of the current delivered by the driver. Now let's say you have 4 boards sharing 8A. If one board dies the other 3 are still gonna share those 8A so they won't be getting 2A anymore but 2.666A. So they start running at higher temp because of that and slowly start overheating. Now when another board die and you're left with 2, those get each 4A and run even hotter. So if another one of those 2 dies the last one will be getting the whole 8A and you know what comes next.

If wired in series and running constant current when one board dies there will all go out as the circuit is broken so nothing else gets harmed anymore.

At least in theory.

Regarding spectrum. You will have some CCT shift at different drive currents. With lower drive current CCT will shift towards warmer colours and with higher drive current spectrum will shift towards colder colours. The difference is not too obvious but it's there.
Click to expand...

Thank you!!

sixstring said:
You could also use a hlg 600-54 to parallel 4 to 8 boards I'm sure.so many driver options,just like a qb288. Only difference is these can handle way more power
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Thanks! I'll start with a smaller driver and then increase after I have a better understanding. If I start with a 600w driver, it defeats the purpose of me building a light to save some amps, which is my main goal. Right now, I am pushing the shit out of a 15 amp breaker, any small increase or the wrong things running at the wrong time cause it to trip.

Freshone said:
Steven said you could really max those luminous/lumi boards out if you ran a fan over the pin sinks,crazy the shit their coming out with!
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Hi! Do you happen to know the footprint? I know with the qb288's is 3'x3' for veg and 2'x2' for flower.
 
#1,019
What is the smart timing dimmer function on the meanwells? I would like to be able to do a sunrise/sunset on and off down the line. Can I do that with an A, B or D2 driver?
 
#1,020
Great thread. Have to agree COBs and QBs ROCK!!! They are the future. Here's a pic of my 1K watt COB rig.
Just love all aspects of this tech.
Thanks for the thread.
Stay safe!!!
Success w/ya grow!!!
 

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