I stand very much corrected.actually the opposite is true for commercial tomato growers
to induce fruit clusters and fruit ripening
ec is raised significantly as well as keeping the media as dry as possible without wilting
with an ec of between 3-5k
is the reason you are feeding so many x's a day is because your medium is drying that quick or are you just running that much?
when running your feed 4seconds and consistantly doing it you are building your ec extremely high as the plant dosnt uptake all elements equal
so some will begin to build
if you are going to be feeding like this you should run a full flush 3x the medium at least every 10 days IMO
Also by full flush are we talking 50/50 diluted strength base or phed ro water onlyactually the opposite is true for commercial tomato growers
to induce fruit clusters and fruit ripening
ec is raised significantly as well as keeping the media as dry as possible without wilting
with an ec of between 3-5k
is the reason you are feeding so many x's a day is because your medium is drying that quick or are you just running that much?
when running your feed 4seconds and consistantly doing it you are building your ec extremely high as the plant dosnt uptake all elements equal
so some will begin to build
if you are going to be feeding like this you should run a full flush 3x the medium at least every 10 days IMO
usually a flush would be at a lower ecAlso by full flush are we talking 50/50 diluted strength base or phed ro water only
so I would suggest lowering your ec even more1.6gal to 3gal in coco with 25% ish perlite slash hydroton on bottom layer
Ya man high pressured manifold watering system using a mondi pump but the build is pretty cool high pressure irrigation.
I have to have pressure 1/2 strength max is too much. I try to get slight to no runoff now but every strain is different and I havent dialed in all these strains yet but I enjoy learning more
These plants are 14 ft away from manifolf and res 16ft of vinyl tubing same pressure as 5.ft away. Just a different irrigation system but still trying to dial it in as well
Will do exactly thatso I would suggest lowering your ec even more
because you are giving them feed with little to no runoff
that will cause quit the ec buildup quickly
I got that part. Thank goodness the youtube video I copied system from listed some of the parts. Because ya shit gets complicated lolalso a ball valve works well to regulate pressure
oh yeah that is a dope set up he hadI got that part. Thank goodness the youtube video I copied system from listed some of the parts. Because ya shit gets complicated lol
I know a couple bigger (than my small time cannbis and vegetable gardens) greenhouse growers that grow several varities of hierloom and production hybrid tomatos and what you say is very much inline with there methods. One grows in rockwool slabs and one uses growbags of promix. The both run to waste with dosatrons for drip fertigation. They run HIGH EC. Its amazing how high actually. And they most definitely use crop steering techniques in the later months of the season. The let the substrate dry down alot more. Inducing fruit. They use these little "tricks" ( alot of pro veggie growers do it) to get the crops to do what.they want when outside weather permits. Good post.actually the opposite is true for commercial tomato growers
to induce fruit clusters and fruit ripening
ec is raised significantly as well as keeping the media as dry as possible without wilting
with an ec of between 3-5k
is the reason you are feeding so many x's a day is because your medium is drying that quick or are you just running that much?
when running your feed 4seconds and consistantly doing it you are building your ec extremely high as the plant dosnt uptake all elements equal
so some will begin to build
if you are going to be feeding like this you should run a full flush 3x the medium at least every 10 days IMO
I do the same as wellI know a couple bigger (than my small time cannbis and vegetable gardens) greenhouse growers that grow several varities of hierloom and production hybrid tomatos and what you say is very much inline with there methods. One grows in rockwool slabs and one uses growbags of promix. The both run to waste with dosatrons for drip fertigation. They run HIGH EC. Its amazing how high actually. And they most definitely use crop steering techniques in the later months of the season. The let the substrate dry down alot more. Inducing fruit. They use these little "tricks" ( alot of pro veggie growers do it) to get the crops to do what.they want when outside weather permits. Good post.
Wow...Sea water? You mean the real deal salty sea water? How in the hell do they get away with that?I do the same as well
I live near one of the largest LEED greenhouses in the world
they grow Maters/cukes/peppers/eggplant/
and in a seperate system...salad greens
I have talked to them many times about that very subject
seems crazy until you see the results
they use coco slabs
they use a salt mix made specifically for there greenhouse.....by a local agg nutrient company each element has its own tank and everything is dosed electronically and there are sensors everywhere reading npk's
soil salinity/moisture
plant leaf analysis daily
and the computer auto corrects with the parameters input by the master growers..
when I was in Culinary school we went to europe and one of the craziest things was in San Marzano Italy
they irrigate their famous tomatoes with sea water ....straight sea water
my outdoor maters I dont even water
I feed ewc tea bi-weekley....same for all veggies as well as my cannabis
Those ppm were on 500scale. I'm a little hesitant to jump into my own salt mixture so am still just using bottled nutes. Roughly taking into consideration calmag, pk booster ,dilution rates etc. I do the first 2 weeks of flower at 5-5-6-5 NPKCa, week 3&4 : 5-6-7-5, weeks 5 thru 8 : 4-6-7-3.5, week 9 just a small amount of carbs, aminos and pk.So very interested in your methodology here. I believe its backed by commercial tomato growers if im not mistaken. What's your NPK ratios look like throughout different stages of a 9to 10wk strain? Would also be extremely helpful to know correlated PPM @.71 scale or EC with those stages as well..
Im currently reducing ec from 1.4 ec 3x day then 1.2 ec 4x day bumped every 6hrs irrigation on for 4 second then now 1.1 ec with 5x day.
I noticed when I increased my daily feedings to 5x day my higher EC of 1.25 was causing slight burn on surface of leaves like they crumble away at edges looks like very fast nute burn almost I want to say. Should I lower ec even lower than 1.2 @5x or change something ??
not sure.....but the maters are super tasty fresh off the vineWow...Sea water? You mean the real deal salty sea water? How in the hell do they get away with that?
Ive found that 500 to 800 ppm (500 scale) to be the sweet spot for damn near every strain ive ran in the last 10 to 12 years or so ive been growing in coco coir run to waste. With 700 maybe 750 total being ideal at peak bloom. I very rarely go past 850 or 900. Only very hungry strains or new stuff i play around with a run or two to figure out my dialage and mileage. Plants of all strains in my rooms dont seem to do any better with those crazy high fertilizer runs. And matter of fact some dont like it at all. I never could understand how people run like 1100 - 1400 ppm of solution and not burn.Those ppm were on 500scale. I'm a little hesitant to jump into my own salt mixture so am still just using bottled nutes. Roughly taking into consideration calmag, pk booster ,dilution rates etc. I do the first 2 weeks of flower at 5-5-6-5 NPKCa, week 3&4 : 5-6-7-5, weeks 5 thru 8 : 4-6-7-3.5, week 9 just a small amount of carbs, aminos and pk.
I try to get decent runoff every time I water maybe 15or so % to help avoid salt build up and monitor medium ph/ec to gauge what to feed. My thinking is a plant goes through the most rapid growth/tissue building the first 5weeks of flowering, after that it's really just filling out and bulking up the calyxes. That can't require too much nutrient as it's not a lot of tissue relative to what the plants creating in those first 5 weeks ? It's kinda the opposite of what most nute companies recommend but idk it seems to work well with bigger plants.
I tend to get a little tip burn if I go much over 700 ppm 1.4ec at any point unless it's the first few waterings in new coco. At transplant into new coco I'll put in 1000ppm and the runoff initially comes out at about 600 so that's the only time I feed high......
so I would say your ppm/ec depends on the wattage of lightSo I grew in a soil-less mix for a few years and just made the move to coco/perlite 80/20 approx. I also switched to new nutes at the same time. I also got fuckin broad mites at the same time. Still dealing with those. I've been playing with different PPMs/EC and my last run was at 600-750 ppm in veg watering twice per day. I'm going back down to 500 ppm in veg. My last run in flower was 950 ppm but I'm diluting that down with RO water tonight. Goal for 1st week in flower I think 750ish. Still got a lot to learn. I just set my timer up in flower to run for 20 seconds every 2 hours while the lights are on. I'm currently hand watering in veg.
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