Spider mites how do you kill them without killing the crop

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chromedoggy

chromedoggy

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anyone have experience spraying spinosad or SNS- 17 in flower? SNS 17 says not to spray on buds...
 
Mississip Hip

Mississip Hip

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Mix 1 oz of neem and 1 oz of organicide per gallon.

Thats my mix. I use this inside and out. (for prevention, not a kill)

Buy a high dollar atomizer so that the applications are thorough.

SNS 217 is the cadillac organic spray that actually kills the shit out of them....it costs alot.
 
chromedoggy

chromedoggy

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So, do you use your preventative every 3 days all through veg? what is a preventative schedule, vs. a kill dose? I will spend whatever I need to spend, at this point...spent $550 on predatory mites that haven't touched the infestation...
 
rootsnshoots

rootsnshoots

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When I first took over the grow I currently run there was the worst mite and mildew problem imaginable. There was webbing on every cola. Even massive populations of mites at the top of the stakes. Webbing from row to row disgusting! I threw everything away pounds and pounds. Then I trimmed back all their veg and applied azamax 1oz/gallon h20 with a drop of dawn every other day for a week and compost tea on the other days. It knocked em.back greatly. The stuff works. I still see a little damage once in while but all under control. The trick is make sure your moms are clean and you're taking pest free clones. I spray azamax once week now to prevent them and its going great. The mildew on the other hand that ones a bitch, for me tougher than mites.
 
chromedoggy

chromedoggy

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So I can cut back all the bad leaves and start spraying every third day, even this late in the game (3 weeks till harvest), and I will be okay...but what about next cycle? Will I be spraying every three days all the way through? 'cause I sprayed pretty well this time in veg, with Neem and pyrethrin, and even one dose of the dreaded florimite, and they still came back in flower...
 
rootsnshoots

rootsnshoots

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So I can cut back all the bad leaves and start spraying every third day, even this late in the game (3 weeks till harvest), and I will be okay...but what about next cycle? Will I be spraying every three days all the way through? 'cause I sprayed pretty well this time in veg, with Neem and pyrethrin, and even one dose of the dreaded florimite, and they still came back in flower...

Yes cut off the infected areas. Straight into a bag, straight out the room. I have tried neem and pyrethrin and had the same thing. An initial knock back and then they came back hard. I ended up loosing the crop. Anyways... Try azamax.

I spray it up till the last week in flower. It says on the bottle use up to the day of harvest but I'd imagine it could effect flavors that late?

On the next run I cant stress enough. Take your clones from clean clean moms, treated yesterday and no signs of mite damage. Clones/young plants are hard to treat. They are weak and vonerable, the leaves are close to the soil, hard to spray and easy for bugs to get to. I was spraying about once a week once it was all knocked back well.(all old damage has been removed, no new damage has appeared) now I really only spray affected areas of the garden and keep a constant close eye. The key is being persistent and thoroughly spraying. Top and bottoms of leaves. Spray the stalk and the top of the soil/container. Also I use a giant glob of vaseline on the stalk and between nodes to keep the nasties from traveling.
 
chromedoggy

chromedoggy

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Ok, I am going to give up and harvest these buggy girls. BUT, the babies...I am introducing predators now, they seem to be doing well. Now I am concerned about the choice of either spraying or going with the beneficial mites, since spraying will probably kill the good bugs, too?

I am going to clean and bomb the big room they are going into, dip the babies prior to transplant, then release mites at least twice in two weeks.

then, I'm going to pray, not sure to whom, exactly.

I have on my list of arsenal:

Azamax
Azasol
Pyganic
Captain Jack's
Rosemary oil solution
Mighty Wash
Shop vacuum
pest strips (placed on top of stakes, perhaps??--suggestion from an organic gardening site)
Dr doom bomb (prior to planting)

Have I missed anything? (besides the evil Floramite and Avid)

THEN, I have also read that Mites like Nitrogen (using considerable Nitrogen on our U2-Bubba Kush), so I need to consider how I can adjust that, and mites dislike manganese.

What sorts of compost tea additives can anyone recommend? Foliar sprays? Anything else to boost the plants' health and immunity? I am trying to get all the helpful info I have gleaned off of this and other sites together in one place.

Thanks!!
 
NyDankbudz

NyDankbudz

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I used a spray bottle mixed with 50/50 water and rubbing alcohol it works great I sprayed about a hour or 2 before lights on and the bugs would really die off for a couple weeks then do it all over again when they start to show webs
 
Green machine

Green machine

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i use this new product called mighty bomb. it dousn't leave a sticky residue on your plants, its organic and i use a neem powder for a root drench. neem powder shuts down the reproductive organs of the bug so it cant reproduce!! mighty bomb for topical spray and neem powder for anything that i may have missed!! done deal!!!
 
pugliese63

pugliese63

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anyone have experience spraying spinosad or SNS- 17 in flower? SNS 17 says not to spray on buds...

Spinosad is a great product. Its a bacteria that actually hangs around for a bit. Unlike contact insecticides mites ingest spinosad where it becomes lethal. Plus its not harmful to beneficial insects. I've been dealing with broad mites and this so far has been very effective. Spraying every three days for two weeks is the key to getting mites under control. I highly recommend using a spreader/sticker agent with whatever you decide to use. You can buy one commercially or use something like castile soap from Dr. Bronners. Wetting agents increase the effectiveness of any insect treatment considerably.

Here's a couple links that some might find helpful.

http://www.domyownpestcontrol.com/southern-ag-conserve-naturalyte-insect-control-p-2094.html
http://www.domyownpestcontrol.com/hiyield-spreader-sticker-p-1898.html

I highly recommend Spinosad.

As far as spraying during flower check the charts provided with the spinosad. It will tell you how long to wait to spray before harvest based on what you're growing. Usuallly a day or two. Spraying during flower is always a risk but sometimes unavoidable. Spinosad should be safe to use during flower but again consult with the manufactor or a professional if you're unsure.
 
Green machine

Green machine

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3
the problem with spinosad is that it also kills beneficial bugs like bees, ladybugs, it also kills fish..spinosad shuts down the nervous system of bugs... Neem powder shuts down there reproductive system which means no more eggs. and as far as a topical spray I really can't say enough about mighty bomb. you spray the stuff and with a magnifying glass you can just watch these things die .... the reason why I use a spray and a root drench is because I like fighting mites from both ends... from the outside and the inside ... over 8 years of experience has lead me to believe that I have no choice but to use both spray and root drench....works every time!!!
 
Green machine

Green machine

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If anyone out there is truly sick of dealing with these horrible creatures that god was nice enough to grace us with, i have a bit of advice that's coming from over 8 years experience and at least half that time I've dealt with mites on and off and have learned how to deal with them efficiently. I've used almost every product on the market. so i know the pluses and minuses to many products out there. I'm big on organic. i don't like smoking poisons. i have come to the conclusion that you have to spray something to keep the adults from spreading there eggs but its not possible to get to every egg because of the millions of hairs on the underside of the leaves and adult spider mites instinctively know to place there eggs under that layer of fine hairs near the base of the leaves midrib so in order to deal with this problem you need to feed the plant something that will break this cycle. that's where a good root drench comes in...
I have finally stopped on two products that work great together and has worked every time.
I use this new spray called mighty Bomb. this stuff works great and it doesn't leave you with a big sticky mess to clean. it drys almost 100% clean.it won't turn the edges of your leaves yellow like mighty wash did for me. its organic and I can spray it with the lights on even though the directions say not to...this stuff is no joke strong, but because it comes as a 2 gal concentrate you can make it as strong or as weak as you'd like by adding more or less water. that's what i like the most. i spray every 3 days.
For my root drench i have been using neem powder. this stuff finishes the job easily with in 3-4 feedings. i mix it right into my feed res... the reason i like the neem powder is because its the purist and strongest of the different types of neem products and it doesn't coat your roots or slow down growth like neem oil can!
I've contacted the guys that put the mighty bomb product out through there website mightybomb.com. I had a few questions and they told me that they'll be putting out a neem powder based root drench as well. so i'll be giving that a shot for sure!!!
Good Luck and remember don't take any shit from a bug that's smaller than a grain of rice!!!!
 
N

NBfrost

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im in my 6th week bud adn i am using safers end all . they use a mix with phyream . I dont have them bad at all , so i get a magnifing glass and i paint it on with a brush pure and bang there dead , i just see them on a a few leafs here and there .. I use it cause me friend gave me a clone and ruined me with mites .. partly my fault as well . I really like this stuff casue it kill eggs as well . i spray in 3 day intervals , and then in the middle i mix it up a bit with neem oil and hemp soap . its keeping these fuckers at bay till im ready to switch strains and bud everything out !!!! .
 
N

NBfrost

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man i didnt catch the green machiens post , but that sounds like awsome stuff .. have you ever tryed the safers ?
 
Green machine

Green machine

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Can't say I've used that one but I like using a good pump sprayer and make sure to get that under side of those leaves...if you spray and root drench within 2-4 feedings you'll be all set..... Good luck man!!!
 
ghost79

ghost79

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18
Just as it says how can you kill them without loosing the crop.
Cold -Pressed Neem Oil for "Organic", the best product is called "Einstein Oil" that's the one that's the most effective, it's a bit pricey, but worth every penny. You need to spray your plants w/ a cold jet of water first thing in the morning to help knock them off after vaccuming, then Foliar spray your plants with the Einstein Oil every 2-5 day's depending on the severity of the problem. You have to spray at least every 2-3 day's if the infestion is really bad, because you may kill the mites, but the eggs need to be eradicated too to stop/control the infestation. I would change up in between using the E-Oil and a product called "Oxidate" ( I believe it's "Organic" {Hydrogen Peroxide based}). For example: You would spray one time w/ the E-Oil, then the next foliar spray you would use the "Oxidate" so the mites don't build up an immunity to only using 1 insecticide. Also It's very impot to spray both the tops, especially the bottom of the leaves where they reside, the stalk, and all the stems very thouroughly. Don't forget to keep the mixture "agitated" (by shaking it oblviously) when applying it. Also do not spray the plants when the temp. is 68 degrees Farenheit or above because it will crystalize instead of doing it's job.I would do this regimen until the mites are controlled or eradicated. Take a 60x-100x Illuminated, portable microscope and look at the bottom of the leaves to identify if and when the mites are eradicated or controlled. If growing indoors, if it was me I would be supplementing the grow room with 1500 ppm's of CO2. This will help prevent the mites from taking completely over and destroying his/her crop. they spread like wildfire if left unterated! Prevention is the key!!! Anyway, the CO2 supplementation of 1500 ppm's at a steady rate if you use an environmental controller, and a CO2 controller/monitor would speed up the plants growth by 30% or more and this would offset the mites while you treat them as well. Plants that grow faster than an infestation usually will make it to harvest, but it substantially reduces the max. potential if it had no infestation. Also, if doing indoors, keep the temp. no higher than 72 degrees Farenheit, because the mites reproduce at a faster rate the hotter it is. Goodluck!!!
 
dirtyglovedank

dirtyglovedank

342
63
Zero mites its the best I've ever seen and tried it wiped them all out in only 2 applications and I had them bad
It's all organic and dosent stink it smells actually good and WORKS .... I didn't believe it either
I've tried mighty wash, azamax , all other sns , neem oil ,, everything on the shelves ,,,
ZERO MITES WORKS ,,,,,, ALL ORGANIC ,,,,,,NO PLANT DAMAGE ,,
I don't know if its available outside of Mich ? But i know the guy who invented it ..don't know if they even have a web site ? But the shit actually works
Just coat the plant top to bottom every single square inch .. twice ...second time 4-6 days after first application ....I have not seen them since .. and they were bad webbing and all they actually killed a couple of moms they were so bad ....that was 8 -9 months ago
 
S

Sayian

4
1
I don't care what anyone says, mighty wash does not work, azamax does not work.
Einstein oil bull shit does not work. Bombing the room does not work. You can try every method and I can guarantee you nothing will be more effective than spraying Avid/Forbid. You have to be gentle with the stuff because its so damn toxic, dilute it a lot. Spray them either in the last weeks of veg before flower, or the first 2 weeks in flower. The spray will last close to 6-8 weeks :)
Go with the right choice, save your money and time. Time is money, and this stuff is guaranteed, I swear by it.

The only thing that is for sure 100%, and doesn't fuck around is either Avid / Forbid.

Which can be both ordered from Amazon.
 
chromedoggy

chromedoggy

54
18
There is another thread that shows that Avid and Floramite do not degrade within 180 days, but Forbid does, so in that, it is safer than the other big guns. I am diligently spraying alternate organic pesticides every three days, and I have things under control...but what happens once I flip 'em? Will I have to keep spraying through harvest? I will try Forbid right before I flip.
 
Ever after

Ever after

372
28
systemic pesticides !!!!!!! thats the only way. it takes a week after you sprinkle or pour the stuff in the stuff works any simple systemic pesticide sometimes azamax works for 1ml per gallon in res if you feed that or about 3ml max per gallon but azamax most of the time is more of like a condom like if you already got the girl prego or if you already got mites then you need the real chemical made systemic pesticides. i dont think organic will work i have seen it work once with very tiny outbreak on 1 plant of spider mites but i drenched the plant and almost killed it and it was 7 days from harvest it was Chemdog #4 indoors in the summer in a new grow room so im not sure what luck you will have with organic extracted systemic pesticides..... because it sounds like most people on this site dont have normal mites they have some super mite but if you have some mite that came from outside your home you might be lucky enough its just a UNEVOLVED MIGHT AS EVOLVED MITES ARE REALLY REALLY TOUGH LIKE THEY ARE IMMUNE TO THINGS BECAUSE PEOPLE HAVE ALREADY TOSSED EVERYTHING THEY CAN AT THEIR CROP TO GET RID OF THE MITES AND MOST OF THE TIME HONESTLY MOST OF THE TIME A COUPLE OF MITES STAY A LIVE AND THEN YOU HAVE A MITE THAT IS IMMUNE SO SOMETIMES YOUR JUST DOING THEM A FAVOR BY USING CHEMICALS BECAUSE THEN THEY JUST GET STRONGER KEEPING THEM WEAK BY JUST TOSSING OUT PLANTS IF YOU GET INFECTION AND BEACHING AND CLEANING AND RELYING ON SEED OR MAKING A BIG STASH OF GOOD SEED CAN KEEP THE BUGS Away.....most of the time mites are either you have them or theres no mites to be found and your mistaken for a garden spider making webs trying to find food going from leaf to leaf like a hotel for garden spiders dont kill garden spiders as they can help keep the start of bug infestations from starting and you might have the spider mite destroyer if your lucky not likely unless the pest control bugs have actually gotten that popular people are selling them on their clones and using them in clubs. if you got your clones from a club then you most likely have bugs unless your lucky its like going and picking up some hooker with std's tons of hookers or clubs have bugs and problems!!!!!!!!! lol go start seeds and find new stains thats how all the good strains have been found from BAG seed
 

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