CaliRooted
- 1,536
- 263
Green Cleaner does kill eggs, it's on the front of the bottle. An atomizer makes life so much better when spraying.
jumpincactus
Premium Member
Supporter
- 11,609
- 438
And it should also be mentioned that even tho pyrethrum is listed as organic safe. Dont use it in flower more than 2 weeks in, and make sure you wear a respirator and proper clothing and goggles when treating your gurls.. Lots of folks think that because it is organic allowed and not synthetics it is kool But you still need not to be ingesting that shit. It is toxic albeit natural.
See below data on why you need to take precautions even if it is organic allowed.
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pyrethrum
Dewd
- 1,506
- 263
Most people say you can use green cleaner up to a few days before harvest.
I wouldn't let it anywhere near my flowers!
It says right on the front of the bottle "not for use on food or feed crops." I consume my flowers
I wouldn't let it anywhere near my flowers!
It says right on the front of the bottle "not for use on food or feed crops." I consume my flowers
CaliRooted
- 1,536
- 263
It does work though. Me too I wouldn't spray my flowers at the end either. I stop all foliar/spray of any kind at week 3. I haven't had bug issues in my rooms for along time. It all starts with cleanliness.
GrowDoggy
- 7
- 3
Hi all.
Im not going to quote everyone's incorrections which has no doubt caused many newbies misinformation.
This is how to keep it simple.
If you put it in your root zone, and it kills bugs, it is a systemic insecticide, or has systemic insecticidal properties.
Now, if you cannot grasp the fact that these bugs are microscopic, and you need a 100x microscope to see the spider mites at all life stages including eggs which is the most important thing you need to try and have removed from the cycle, since it is the beginning of the cycle it can also be the end. If you focus on removing as many eggs as possible you will eventually succed after 2 - 3 weeks of thorough and time consuming care on a bi daily basis. Adult mites do not live more then 2-5days. Eggs hatch into larvae like creatures, then shed into immature spider mite bodies, and then larger again before they shed their shell the final time and remain a large adult for the remainder of the week.
Eggs are the reason for the major population increases, not the mites themselves...
So if you resort to a systemic miticide or insecticide which is applied to the roots and the plant precipitates the feed solution into the tissue which the juvenile and adult mites both need to feed on to eventually die. So you no only allow the eggs to hatch and multiply endlessly, but you also allow your plants to be harmed while you wait for the mites to ingest enough of the insecticidal plant saps.
You end up with more egg shells in your flowers, you end up with more shedding exoskeletons In your flowers, and you end up with more adult decaying mites aswell.
Now here is the important information, ISOPROPYL alcohol 95% mix with water to make a 30-50% solution, you need to also add pure Rosemary Oils, as this is a natural insecticide and does not damage the plant, does no damage to humans upon ingestion via smoking or eating, nor does it leave ugly residues, you also need to add a couple of drops of CLEAN unfragrenced dishwashing soap, preferably one with both aonic and anionic surfactants, which lowers the solutions surface tension, resulting in an even and smooth covered with less droplets forming around the bugs. This mixture when applied with a fine mister, will encapsulate the mites, while the Isopropyl alcohol dehydrates the mite shells that protect their soft bodies, allowing the Rosemary oil to leach in and kill the Mites.
The isopropyl alcohol is the only way to effectively damage the eggs and disrupt the production cycle enough to dwindle their numbers to a point they will struggle to recuperate from and do further damage.
If you effectively want to kill anything with essential oils and the least harmful chemicals then it will take some physical effort and time. Tho it will be well worth it when your buds are nice to smoke, and although it seems like a waste of time, atleast you are now equipped with the knowledge to compact insect properly, by learning how their bodies operate and how they reproduce, you can effectively disrupt all modes of growth to succeed. Not just ONE, like chemical kills. It is 'quick' cheap and easy but you will notice it in the final product.
And to mix it up a little, add in some citric acid to the mixture on every other occasion, this will help prevent them from being missed.
Also you need to know that because Isopropyl is a suffocant and dehydrator it is virtually impossible for the pests to gain resistance too.
Simple Chemisty vs Nature guys
I learned all of this by reading myself, searching endlessly on the internet, to keep reading about every form of treatment, everyone's got different opinions so the only way to be sure about something is to theorise it yourself and test it yourself. Listening to everyone's 2 cents on a forum will never really get you very far in terms of education.
Peace guys from Australia.
GrowDoggy
Im not going to quote everyone's incorrections which has no doubt caused many newbies misinformation.
This is how to keep it simple.
If you put it in your root zone, and it kills bugs, it is a systemic insecticide, or has systemic insecticidal properties.
Now, if you cannot grasp the fact that these bugs are microscopic, and you need a 100x microscope to see the spider mites at all life stages including eggs which is the most important thing you need to try and have removed from the cycle, since it is the beginning of the cycle it can also be the end. If you focus on removing as many eggs as possible you will eventually succed after 2 - 3 weeks of thorough and time consuming care on a bi daily basis. Adult mites do not live more then 2-5days. Eggs hatch into larvae like creatures, then shed into immature spider mite bodies, and then larger again before they shed their shell the final time and remain a large adult for the remainder of the week.
Eggs are the reason for the major population increases, not the mites themselves...
So if you resort to a systemic miticide or insecticide which is applied to the roots and the plant precipitates the feed solution into the tissue which the juvenile and adult mites both need to feed on to eventually die. So you no only allow the eggs to hatch and multiply endlessly, but you also allow your plants to be harmed while you wait for the mites to ingest enough of the insecticidal plant saps.
You end up with more egg shells in your flowers, you end up with more shedding exoskeletons In your flowers, and you end up with more adult decaying mites aswell.
Now here is the important information, ISOPROPYL alcohol 95% mix with water to make a 30-50% solution, you need to also add pure Rosemary Oils, as this is a natural insecticide and does not damage the plant, does no damage to humans upon ingestion via smoking or eating, nor does it leave ugly residues, you also need to add a couple of drops of CLEAN unfragrenced dishwashing soap, preferably one with both aonic and anionic surfactants, which lowers the solutions surface tension, resulting in an even and smooth covered with less droplets forming around the bugs. This mixture when applied with a fine mister, will encapsulate the mites, while the Isopropyl alcohol dehydrates the mite shells that protect their soft bodies, allowing the Rosemary oil to leach in and kill the Mites.
The isopropyl alcohol is the only way to effectively damage the eggs and disrupt the production cycle enough to dwindle their numbers to a point they will struggle to recuperate from and do further damage.
If you effectively want to kill anything with essential oils and the least harmful chemicals then it will take some physical effort and time. Tho it will be well worth it when your buds are nice to smoke, and although it seems like a waste of time, atleast you are now equipped with the knowledge to compact insect properly, by learning how their bodies operate and how they reproduce, you can effectively disrupt all modes of growth to succeed. Not just ONE, like chemical kills. It is 'quick' cheap and easy but you will notice it in the final product.
And to mix it up a little, add in some citric acid to the mixture on every other occasion, this will help prevent them from being missed.
Also you need to know that because Isopropyl is a suffocant and dehydrator it is virtually impossible for the pests to gain resistance too.
Simple Chemisty vs Nature guys
I learned all of this by reading myself, searching endlessly on the internet, to keep reading about every form of treatment, everyone's got different opinions so the only way to be sure about something is to theorise it yourself and test it yourself. Listening to everyone's 2 cents on a forum will never really get you very far in terms of education.
Peace guys from Australia.
GrowDoggy
One drop
Bush Doctor
Supporter
- 6,514
- 313
Echo oil from Bunnings 10 bucks best spent used in veg stage it's the ducks balls .. od
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