Oh, and I can't resist throwing up a pic of my little lady I just made (I hope you don't mind):
the thing with the levels is, you dont actually have to have them offset, you could have 4 levels directly over each other, the plants will grow at a 45degree angle towards the bulbs, you could off set them 2inch and you will be gravy, you will probably need to add a net, or my favorite 4x8 sheets of concrete reinforcers to hold the plants tight later in flowering
Despite the PM, things are looking pretty good for your first run with vertical bare bulbs sfzoo... Be careful with the zp spray around the colas (don't saturate them as much as the leaves) and dry to drop your RH if it's above 60%. As for the top row, could you raise the center bulb and leave the other two at the current height? :wondering
Cool grow amigo. That Casey is a yielder.
Pm thrives on humidity. Make sure to pick up a hygrometer & keep an eye on your rh level. More airflow will help. Run fans 24/7 (don't cycle w/ lights). I used 1:10 ratio of skim milk & water to knock back the pm until harvest. Works pretty well.
G/L
I see PM and also some nute fry. Mainly nitrogen toxicity and cal/mag lockouts. If you didn't have PM prior then I definately to blame it on your exhaust.. Your pulling in negative pressure exhausting your filter out the window.
Seal up and restructure for next run. Run the carbon on the floor and buy a split AC.
Hey sfzoo, I saw you in other threads asking about quick flushes because you had an issue when you left for three days, but I'd love to hear about your harvest (if you're still around).
Either way, best of luck and keep it green.
for a quick flush I dont Ph my water, lock out any nutes in the medium,
sick pvc build out
update?
No reason to use the stadium type setup, because the plants naturally will lean in toward the light. The racks should definitely be right on top of each other and all plants on the same radius from the light bulb.
For the PM, high humidity is probably better than very low 35% or less humidity. Plants thrive in higher humidity until the buds become too big to where mold is an issue, and then only with indicas or huge yielding hybrids. When humidity is desert-like and too dry, the plants are in fact stressed out and more prone to infection by PM. That's a fact in my experience.
simon said:
This method is particularly effective for folks who are starting out, those looking to maximize quality in a shorter period of time, and folks who's like to produce a connoisseur-quality product each and every time with no guesswork involved.
It's a very simple and effective process:
Cut the product, trim it per your preference, but don't dry it until the stems snap. Take it down while the stems still have some flex, but the product feel dry on the outside. This is a perfect opportunity to drop the dry-feeling flowers onto a screen and collect prime-quality kief that would otherwise get lost in the jar.
Jar the product, along with a Caliber III hygrometer. One can be had on Ebay for ~$20. Having tested a number of hygrometers - digital and analog - this model in particular produced consistent, accurate results. Then, watch the readings:
+70% RH - too wet, needs to sit outside the jar to dry for 12-24 hours, depending.
65-70% RH - the product is almost in the cure zone, if you will. It can be slowly brought to optimum RH by opening the lid for 2-4 hours.
60-65% RH - the stems snap, the product feels a bit sticky, and it is curing.
55-60% RH - at this point it can be stored for an extended period (3 months or more) without worrying about mold. The product will continue to cure.
Below 55% RH - the RH is too low for the curing process to take place. The product starts to feel brittle. Once you've hit this point, nothing will make it better. Adding moisture won't restart the curing process; it will just make the product wet. If you measure a RH below 55% don't panic. Read below:
Obviously, the product need time to sweat in the jar. As such, accurate readings won't be seen for ~24 hours, assuming the flowers are in the optimal cure zone. If you're curing the product for long-term storage, give the flowers 4-5 days for an accurate reading. If the product is sill very wet, a +70% RH reading will show within hours. If you see the RH rising ~1% per hour, keep a close eye on the product, as it's likely too moist.
HTH,
Simon
Way to come in and finish strong, bro!!
Thought we'd lost another small plant vert journal and then you came in and proved me wrong in a big way - props, homeboy.
Hell, having some downtime while I wait for clones so you've got me thinking I might just do a coco DTW myself instead of a recirculating aero...........well done man, and thanks again for the info.
One last question - just skimmed the thread for 15 minutes trying to find your plant count - best I can tell (from pics), it was 32 on each side for 64 total? That sound about right? Just trying to get a feel for your per plant yield, and since we know the numerator is 4-5 pounds, trying to figure out the denominator...........thanks man.
the denominator should be light count, imo. which is four? like he said roughly .5gpw...
We use cookies and similar technologies for the following purposes:
Do you accept cookies and these technologies?
We use cookies and similar technologies for the following purposes:
Do you accept cookies and these technologies?