strain hunting and my war against spidermites

[oxanaca]

here's a predatory mites that can eats things other than spider mites.

Neoseiulus fallacis
N. fallacis predator is similar to N. Californicus but is more effective in northern climates on Mint, Hops and Strawberries. Reproduces at lower temperatures than other predatory mites (P.persimilis)



• Resistant to more pesticides than most biological controls • Survive in the absence of mite prey by feeding on other small arthropods and pollen

Target Pests: Neoseiulus fallacis are known to control the European Red Mite (Panonychus ulmi) below economic thresholds in fruit orchards. Also targets Two-Spotted Spider Mite (Tetranychus urticae), Spruce Spider Mite (Oligonychus ununguis) and Southern Red Mite (Oligonychus ilicis).

Description:
Neoseiulus fallacis is a native predatory mite that feeds on spider mites, rust mites and small insects. It is one of the most important biological control agents in North American berry and orchard crops. Adults have pear-shaped bodies, 0.l5mm long; they are tan to light orange in color, shiny, with long legs. Immature predators are cream colored and semi-transparent. Their eggs are oval and 0.3mm long.

 

[oxanaca]

Do yourself a favor and get some neem cake bro!

I simply top dress an ounce or two then give em a couple weekly drenches (1/4 - 1/2 cup per gallon) with it keeps the bugs away ....I've had mites getting on my nerves lately til I started using it, after checking the leaves with the most damage or even some slight webbing I can't find em! I have two 33 gallon totes of soil cooking that I've amended with it, I plan to start doing ROLS again looking for some crab meal to add in some extra calcium and chitin!!

Hey good hit
But whats a ROLS

 

[symbiote420]

Hey good hit
But whats a ROLS

recycled organic living soil
Bugs coming in straight for the manufacturer or dro store in bagged soils so recycling and amending what I have already should help eliminate that method of entry! Just gotta keep my house sprayed inside and out during the summers and hopefully I can be mite/pest free.

 

[oxanaca]

I'm going to get this to test my micro nutrients in my plant sap

 

[Bluzboy]

hello so im growing out a bunch of seeds. i have 58 females and am about to go into flower mode soon. two nights ago i realized i have a spider mite issue. i wont be able to use toxic chemicals such as floramite or avid as i dont do that.
instead i will be using a few different safer methods

i will blast them off with a hose.
i will strip off all unnecessary undergrowth.
apply mighty wash, nicotine extracted from tobacco, and diluted rosemary oil with tween 20
seepro Preferal: a fungus that attacks spider mites
OG Bio war foliar tea
predetory mites
spider mite destroyers

i own a fogmaster fogger. and a high pressure hand sprayer. that provides a nice fine mist

i am collecting spider mites for the prison i am building to breed them. i want to breed spider mites to feed
the predetory mites and spider mite destroyers. which i will be raising. i would like to be able to release rediculous numbers of predetors and destroyers in the event of an out break. and still have a reproductive base

I also wnt to be able to individually isolate, culture and store all major microbial insecticides in caps mix and preferal

A really good OMRI spider mite killer that kills the adults, the larvae, and the eggs with one application is a product called Organocide and runs like 15 to 18 bucks for a bottle of concentrate that will make 16 gallons. It is simply fish oil, sesame oil, and rosemary oil and it kills them fuckers dead at all stages of development as I stated earlier, kills the adults, larvae, and the eggs. The only mites left alive after an application are those you did not hit with the drench. Go back a week later and drench again. No fracking mites. Mighty Wash is good but expensive and only kills the adults. I use that in the last three weeks of bloom only and when or if if I get an out break at that stage. I use the organicide once a week and no mites. here's a pic of the product below. You can buy a bottle of concentrate for as cheap as 15 bucks on Amazon. Now the draw back is that your veg room or bloom room will smell like a New Orleans cannery for 4 to 8 hours afterwards and then fade. I personally don't care about a little fish smell here and there if the mites are all dead without using a pyritheum or IMAD if there is large infestation. I have used this Organicide on a plant covered in mites and web outside and drenched the outdoor plant with this and the next day 99 percent of all them little bloody buggering buggers were dead Oxanaca. I would suggest adding this Organocide to your arsenal of mite preventatives and killers bro.
Best to you always from the Ol' Mile High Bluzboy

 

[TSTEW313]

Yeah I would have to second that on the conserve sc it kills thrips an spider mites an many other bugs. I had a bad thrip invasion this was the only product that killed them period! It contains 11.6% part A, an part D spinosad an Is highly concentrated!

 

[oxanaca]

A really good OMRI spider mite killer that kills the adults, the larvae, and the eggs with one application is a product called Organocide and runs like 15 to 18 bucks for a bottle of concentrate that will make 16 gallons. It is simply fish oil, sesame oil, and rosemary oil and it kills them fuckers dead at all stages of development as I stated earlier, kills the adults, larvae, and the eggs. The only mites left alive after an application are those you did not hit with the drench. Go back a week later and drench again. No fracking mites. Mighty Wash is good but expensive and only kills the adults. I use that in the last three weeks of bloom only and when or if if I get an out break at that stage. I use the organicide once a week and no mites. here's a pic of the product below. You can buy a bottle of concentrate for as cheap as 15 bucks on Amazon. Now the draw back is that your veg room or bloom room will smell like a New Orleans cannery for 4 to 8 hours afterwards and then fade. I personally don't care about a little fish smell here and there if the mites are all dead without using a pyritheum or IMAD if there is large infestation. I have used this Organicide on a plant covered in mites and web outside and drenched the outdoor plant with this and the next day 99 percent of all them little bloody buggering buggers were dead Oxanaca. I would suggest adding this Organocide to your arsenal of mite preventatives and killers bro.
Best to you always from the Ol' Mile High Bluzboy

awesome stuff. i just added it to my amazon cart

 

[oxanaca]

Yeah I would have to second that on the conserve sc it kills thrips an spider mites an many other bugs. I had a bad thrip invasion this was the only product that killed them period! It contains 11.6% part A, an part D spinosad an Is highly concentrated!

i purchased a less concentrated product containing spinosad it is called captain jacks. it contains 0.5% spinosad a & d. got it local. gonna dip the plants in a spinosad, predatory fungi concoction later this night.

the mighty wash killed all the adults a few nights ago.

i diped the bastards in water chock full of Isaria fumosorosea spores last night.
my buddy ordered some og bio war foliar pack, i ran out. gonna brew up some tea and dunk the fuckers in that once i get it.

 

[TSTEW313]

Yeah that doesn't even compare to the conserve sc! I used the captain Jacks an it did very little for my thrips battle I hope you have a better outcome tho!

 

[oxanaca]

Yeah that doesn't even compare to the conserve sc! I used the captain Jacks an it did very little for my thrips battle I hope you have a better outcome tho!

if i run the same PPM active ingrediants it wont matter. the conserve sc is just a more cost effective product.

 

[TSTEW313]

I can't say that to be true because I bought several bottles of the captain Jacks an mixed way stronger than it called for an I still had thrips! But keep us posted on how it works for you! An I wanna say captain Jacks is .05% if I remember correctly!

 

[oxanaca]

the conserve produces 73 ppm spinosad at label rate or 8 ounces of 11.6% per 100 gallons

captain jacks calls for 2 fl Oz of 0.5% spinosad per 1 gallon. this works out to just short of 79ppm spinosad

i wonder if their wasnt some other factor involved in your thrip battle. gonna defy the label and add 4 ounces per gallon

 

[TSTEW313]

Well I hope your math is correct an you get your problem solved best of luck!

 

[oxanaca]

just dipped some spider mites in fungal spores and spinosad.

I would appreciate it if someone could idenify why some of my clones are browning. it seems to be more prevelent in some strains more than others. the browning is not accompanied by damp off

 

[Seamaiden]

It doesn't look like classic broad mite damage, but it does resemble the damage in that it seems to be affecting the newest, tenderest growth. Have you scoped those areas?

 

[oxanaca]

I just looked and I dont see any mite activity on the damaged clones. Ive been dealing with this type of damage for the last year, however this is the nicest clones ive seen in that period @ 7 days. I lost about 2% to damp off at substate level and about 5-10% to this foliar disease.

 

[oxanaca]

since I've been seeing this type of damage on clones for a long time and I haven't seen any damage like this on full size plants. I think its safe to assume Its not broad mites right?

 

[Seamaiden]

Yeah, I really don't think it's broad mites. But I do think the pattern you're observing is telling.

 

[Capulator]

Are you still dipping cuts in physan? 1mL per gallon is really high. For root rot I was using 3mL/25 gal and you would have to change the water out after a half hour or risk poisoning your plants.

That damage looks exactly like when I killed my plants with physan.

Wondering if the physan is causing your tissue damage... but I could definitely be wrong.

 

[oxanaca]

do you think it could be some kind of pathogen attacking my plant from the inside, I'm not too familiar with different microbial pathogens, but I know fror my study in tissue culture that you can kill all living pathogens on the outside of your clone material, and still have parasites on the inside your clones