Check this out cardaddy.
Lazymans Vegan Tea
Filtered water
Molasses
Vegan Mix 3-2-2
Caps bennies


http://www.groworganic.com/vegan-mix-25-lb-bag.html

Disambiguator said:

Check this out cardaddy.
Lazymans Vegan Tea
Filtered water
Molasses
Vegan Mix 3-2-2
Caps bennies


http://www.groworganic.com/vegan-mix-25-lb-bag.html

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my apologies for the misunderstanding, this is all very new to me.
is this something i can get out of the hydro store? and how how much per gallon of Caps bennies do you add to this vegan tea? thanks in advance

the link to the Vegan 3-2-2 mix is up above. similar mixes are available from other sources but you'll have to search. since you're new, i'd suggest keeping it simple and not over thinking it, particularly the micro measurements. we're talking about propagules per million here and it's not an exact science, at least, not at our level w/ the testing equipment that most growers have available to them. experiment and share your results. all good vibes.

catdaddy said:

lame.

hey Cap i am confused as to what is meant by Full strength? in the beginning of the thread it states 1-2 cups for 10gal of water, but in you last post it sounds like you use the tea straight up. the tea i made is only at 310ppms so i am going to assume it's safe to use straight up without dilution.

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yes full strength tea. no diluting. Best to use foliar only, but if you have already mixed root and foliar and dont want to make anoher batch. go for it. In the beginning of this thread you an see I was worried about recommending foliar with even 1/4 dose of the diluted recipe. However, testing has been done and full strength foliar pack is best.

I've posted to this thread, but I don't think I've posted my recipe. Since the soil I'm using is heavily amended, I've been looking for a simple, strong, microbe rich tea that has little to no NPK content. Cap's Bennies are a perfect fit for my garden. Here is my recipe:

2.5 gallons of filtered water (not RO but chlorine/chloramines removed)
1 tsp foliar
1 tsp root
2 heaping tbsps of Earth Recharge Compost OR Alaskan Humisoil
2 heaping tbsps of powdered molasses

This all goes in a 5 gallon bucket with a 5 gallon paint strainer inside and 2 air stones each with their own air pump. I let this bubble for 12-20 hours. Pull the pain strainer out and let it drip drain for a minute. Mix this solution with about 4 gallons of water and feed directly to my plants. It gets applied as a foliar undiluted. I do this for about 80% of my waterings. It's not nearly as strong as some of the other recipes, but I also don't dilute in the same fashion. Plants love it.

outwest

I love that someone mentioned the Vegan Mix. I use this mix (down to earth brand),and love it. I recommend this to every organic/amendment grower I know. I havent been making teas with it,but I am now! Great thinking Disambiguator. I'm not sure why i didnt think of this...?

I've been top dressing with this for about a couple years now. About 4 cups per 4x8 bed. Great thread. Keep up the great work Cap!!

Hi HumboldtDr. Good stuff in, good stuff out. It started out as a soil mix trial and it's uses expanded from there. Very versatile. I'm glad you posted. Always nice to have some company.

Other than the greensand and volcanic ash, I have (or have had) all of the Vegan ingredients in bulk. The mix is more expensive than buying the items separately, but the convenience offsets the price differential for me. The melange smells great- more than the sum of it’s parts when they're mixed in separately because the materials have had some time to commingle and mildly ferment together. Having a mix w/ N-P-K values already established can also be a good base to help build a more sophisticated feeding regimen upon.
I strain the tea to get the faster acting solubles working and add the filtered out granules into my soil mix and count them as insoluble, (slow release) nutrients in my calcs. The microbes are already acting on the granules and are carried w/ them into the soil mix. Or don't filter and use the solids as top dressing. Mix it half strength to lower the N-P-K values. Or, reverse engineer it if you like chemistry equations and math. :D

C'mon now. Somebody's got to have a "Carnivore's Tea" recipe they can share. ;):cool:

Actually nutrient broth is made with beef isn't it? I'll see if I can find the recipe.

Capulator said:

Actually nutrient broth is made with beef isn't it? I'll see if I can find the recipe.

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I hope you understand that I was half joking and certainly wasn't trying to lay any extra work on your customer service dept. With the basics covered, I give myself some latitude to have fun w/ teas. "Kelpboy's Hormonal Essence" is a tea I made up that uses kelp from 4-5 different sources, molasses, a pinch of hydrolyzed fish for a little N and Caps root pack.

yup got em yesterday, i'm 17 days into flower can i still use the foliar pack? i'm in rockwool hugo's on top of a coco mat, right now i've been mixing food everyday n watering like that gonna start the res up soon using H&G nutes. whats the best way for me to use em.
Thanks for all the help.

kushsmoker30 said:

yup got em yesterday, i'm 17 days into flower can i still use the foliar pack? i'm in rockwool hugo's on top of a coco mat, right now i've been mixing food everyday n watering like that gonna start the res up soon using H&G nutes. whats the best way for me to use em.
Thanks for all the help.

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yes. use them. all the way to the week before you harvest. make the tea, add it straight the rockwool.

so jus to be correct, make the tea n do not put in res just put into rw block in the undiluted form?
also still follow directions on initial post for making the tea, correct?
Thank U

i was wondering if you could add liquid bone meal to the tea's in any form thanks

kushsmoker30 said:

so jus to be correct, make the tea n do not put in res just put into rw block in the undiluted form?
also still follow directions on initial post for making the tea, correct?
Thank U

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I will do both. I use the concentrate sometimes as a top feed with a pitcher (on rockwool), and I put it in my res as well @ 1 cup/ 5 gallons. Initial post tea instructions are money.

dumpstergrower said:

i was wondering if you could add liquid bone meal to the tea's in any form thanks

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Sure why not? Not sure how much you would add... I don't put anything in my tea other than what you see in the first post. Other users do though, and mayeb they will chime in.

thanks for the responce
love thr recipe by the way

Here is a paper (link below) I found that got me started on looking up the many different methods of culturing microbes. I have come to the conclusion, that for now, I will follow the KISS method. The recipe at the beginning of this thread does exactly that. I especially think this is the best way to go when first starting. I know that I am not going to educate myself to the point where I might as well be working as a microbiologist instead of growing pot, and i have read enough to know that if you have a tea that will introduce a diverse biology into your medium, the plant and the microbes will do the rest. The plant has ways that it signals, controls, and works in unison with the microbes, and will establish in the medium and/or the foliage, the correct balance on it's own. I am not saying that it's not cool to want to tweak it out, and even go with a DO meter, scope, etc.... What I am saying is that there are a lot of people that have already done this, and if you don't want to get into the fine details, then besides having a good brewer, a good microbe supply, and a couple basic recipes, all you have do is read this thread, there is a TON of info and links in it.

What I found most interesting in this paper, after I looked up a bunch of words (endospores, parasporal bodies and how they are formed) is that they were able to boost productivity using a culture broth/medium that the recipe at the start of this thread provides basically.

Improvement of Bacillus thuringiensis Bioinsecticide Production by Fed-batch Culture on
Low Cost Effective Medium
http://www.aensionline.com/rjabs/rjabs/2008/923-935.pdf

I don't know if I have posted this before but I have had a hell of a time with fungus gnats. Two or three times I thought I had them gone, not talking about one or two gnats flying around but an actual heavy larvae infestation, but each time they came back. The first time that I realized how bad an infestation was in my plants I tried Gnatrol. I noticed on the Gnatrol label that it warned not to use it with anything containing Chlorine (no brainer) or Copper. I could not find any references though, even when I asked Valent, who makes it, as to HOW MUCH copper. The way they word it is kind of wishy washy. I thought they meant if you were using it with like a copper-based fungicide with real high copper content. That was one time I got thought I had them down but didn't. I mention this infestation because that is when I noticed the copper warning.

Now, BTi is BTi, Caps is just as good as Valents Gnatrol. Valent Corp. just happened to pick a certain strain so they could patent it, or maybe because it is easier to culture on a commercial basis, whatever, don't care. BTi is BTi, it's been around since forever.

So, by using Caps Foliar Pack, full strength crown drench (rockwool) and soil drench (moms) applications and making certain that I waited 36 hours after fertilizing and 24 hours after application before using fertilizer again, and have been at this about three or four weeks. I think I have finally gotten rid of them. This is the longest period of time I have gone without seeing any larvae. I know I posted before that I had gotten rid of them but that was before I realized how long the cycle, in heavy infestations, could last. I have calculated a cycle that could possibly go 30 days easy.

Anyway, finally, a friend came upon this from Cornell that mentions Gnatrol should not be used with any compound with levels higher than 100ppm Copper Actually this is a pretty good reference guide as to pest control in general also. I don't know
http://nysipm.cornell.edu/publications/bpguide99/files/biocont.pdf

I know there are other people that have not had it as bad as me and have probably gotten rid of fungus gnats without worrying about the Copper issue, or else they didn't have success with BTi and used something else. This is just a FYI. I am just saying that if you use any kind (hopefully Caps Foliar) of BTi and it knocks them down but they still come back quickly in high numbers, maybe this is why.

Capulator said:

I will do both. I use the concentrate sometimes as a top feed with a pitcher (on rockwool), and I put it in my res as well @ 1 cup/ 5 gallons. Initial post tea instructions are money.



Sure why not? Not sure how much you would add... I don't put anything in my tea other than what you see in the first post. Other users do though, and mayeb they will chime in.

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Thank u Cap for answering all my ?'s

what is the best way to adjust PH when drenching undiluted tea should i of PH'd 1st?

do not ph adjust. It shoudl be pretty neutral if you are using RO water.