Log In Register

Tea Recipe

  • Thread starter Thread starter Capulator
  • Start date Start date
  • Tagged users Tagged users None

Tea Recipe

Capulator 1,732 Replies 370,239 Views
Page 16 of 87 · Replies 301–320 of 1,733
Recently I found one of my tea's that I let go a little long went acidic. Down to 5.0 after dilution, which in that instance was 1:4. I used diluted Protekt to bring it up but the same thing occured to me about if that was okay to use (Silicone as in Protekt), and if not, what are the best choices if you do want to adjust your PH? I seem to remember reading somewhere that Phosphoric Acid is an oxidizer so that wouldn't be good? I do know that in my readings about laboratory culturing methods to grow microbes in solution that (one in paricular) they used something Citrate to adjust PH. They do have preferences but we use so many different ones that I wonder what is the happy medium? Probably somewhere around 5.5 - 7.0?

I am switching to container soilless gardening for now. I just seem to have the most beautiful Moms (since starting using teas), no problems and the one time I flowered one in soil, using tea, I had spectacular results. I am just going where my strength seems to be I guess. Tired of fighting the same old shit. I don't foresee any Ph issues, like I said I have never had any with my moms, but if there is any advice out there I would like to hear it, although specifically when using teas frequently. Such as...

Is there any value to keeping track of PH while making tea? (does it going acidic or basic indicate anything)
If you are keeping ph measurements of runoff, what is the best method to do this and should you do it when applying a tea or in between tea applications? (I measure occasionally. I water until runoff, suck that off with a baster, then water about a quart more and when that runs off I measure that).
What if you do start getting high or low readings? I mean like extremely low or high.

I have had my soil runoff go down to 5.6 on one strain of Moms, but after about one or two weeks it adjusted back up. But if you do start having Ph problems, what do you do? I have heard a weak Hydrated Lime solution (in soilless) will bring an overly acidic soil back up, but that's the only trick I know. I sprinkle a little dolomitic lime on my Moms about once every 1 1/2 months, about 2 tbl and that might help.

If am not ignoring Hydro so if anyone knows of ph issues that might arise when using teas in hydro feel free to post it up. The only one I can think of is if there are specific types of PH up and PH down you should use? I guess that would apply to Soil also if you happen to need to adjust before watering.

Sorry if this rambles around a bit.....I tend to do that. I'm really amped about switching to Soilless.
 
Thanks Cap, sorry if i've asked ?'s u've already answered.....long post to much to read n not enough time. Peace
 
same here...I seem to remember that when you were getting holes in your Tshirts you mentioned a PH adjuster that I didn't recognize. So kinda just wondering what are good ph adjusters if you need to use them that are more microbe friendly.
 
1 ml = 0.00422675284 US cups

Lazymans Vegan Tea
Filtered water
Molasses
Vegan Mix 3-2-2
Caps bennies


http://www.groworganic.com/vegan-mix-25-lb-bag.html

Thanks, great link. They have a ton of good stuff. Wish they were local.....I know shipping would kill it. I pay $20 a bag locally for Roots Organic soil, they have it for $12.

Learned something new about one of the ingredients in the Vegan Mix.

Langbeinite is a potassium magnesium sulfate mineral with formula: K2Mg2(SO4)3. Langbeinite crystallizes in the isometric - tetartoidal system as transparent colorless or white with pale tints of yellow to green and violet crystalline masses. It has a vitreous luster. The Mohs hardness is 3.5 to 4 and the specific gravity is 2.83. The crystals are phosphorescent and piezoelectric.
The mineral is an ore of potassium and occurs in marine evaporite deposits in association with carnallite, halite and sylvite.
 
i diluted 8 gals into an other 8 gals of RO.
Took 4 gals of RO PH'd it to 4.3 (didn't mean to got that low) left the other 4 gals at PH it had r 6.8. Strained the 8 gals of tea consentrait into a 25 gal storage container ( wal mart rubbermade) tea was also at 6.8, i started by adding some of the 4.3 to the tea n ph tested it then put 6.8 water in and so on back n forth till i had the water n PH level's i wanted. i did not want to risk lowing ph to much too fast.

don't know if that hurt my bennies, but tea never went below 5.8 PH as i was poring a half gal at a time into a 8 gal tea mix. i noticed both times i made it it stayed at the PH that the water was before mixing anything in. i followed the recipe at the start of post, i use Botanicare sweets raw for choice of carb.
 
Recently I found one of my tea's that I let go a little long went acidic. Down to 5.0 after dilution, which in that instance was 1:4. I used diluted Protekt to bring it up but the same thing occured to me about if that was okay to use (Silicone as in Protekt), and if not, what are the best choices if you do want to adjust your PH? I seem to remember reading somewhere that Phosphoric Acid is an oxidizer so that wouldn't be good? I do know that in my readings about laboratory culturing methods to grow microbes in solution that (one in paricular) they used something Citrate to adjust PH. They do have preferences but we use so many different ones that I wonder what is the happy medium? Probably somewhere around 5.5 - 7.0?

I am switching to container soilless gardening for now. I just seem to have the most beautiful Moms (since starting using teas), no problems and the one time I flowered one in soil, using tea, I had spectacular results. I am just going where my strength seems to be I guess. Tired of fighting the same old shit. I don't foresee any Ph issues, like I said I have never had any with my moms, but if there is any advice out there I would like to hear it, although specifically when using teas frequently. Such as...

Is there any value to keeping track of PH while making tea? (does it going acidic or basic indicate anything)
If you are keeping ph measurements of runoff, what is the best method to do this and should you do it when applying a tea or in between tea applications? (I measure occasionally. I water until runoff, suck that off with a baster, then water about a quart more and when that runs off I measure that).
What if you do start getting high or low readings? I mean like extremely low or high.

I have had my soil runoff go down to 5.6 on one strain of Moms, but after about one or two weeks it adjusted back up. But if you do start having Ph problems, what do you do? I have heard a weak Hydrated Lime solution (in soilless) will bring an overly acidic soil back up, but that's the only trick I know. I sprinkle a little dolomitic lime on my Moms about once every 1 1/2 months, about 2 tbl and that might help.

If am not ignoring Hydro so if anyone knows of ph issues that might arise when using teas in hydro feel free to post it up. The only one I can think of is if there are specific types of PH up and PH down you should use? I guess that would apply to Soil also if you happen to need to adjust before watering.

Sorry if this rambles around a bit.....I tend to do that. I'm really amped about switching to Soilless.

The bennies should regulate their own pH . This is what I was told.
 
i diluted 8 gals into an other 8 gals of RO.
Took 4 gals of RO PH'd it to 4.3 (didn't mean to got that low) left the other 4 gals at PH it had r 6.8. Strained the 8 gals of tea consentrait into a 25 gal storage container ( wal mart rubbermade) tea was also at 6.8, i started by adding some of the 4.3 to the tea n ph tested it then put 6.8 water in and so on back n forth till i had the water n PH level's i wanted. i did not want to risk lowing ph to much too fast.

don't know if that hurt my bennies, but tea never went below 5.8 PH as i was poring a half gal at a time into a 8 gal tea mix. i noticed both times i made it it stayed at the PH that the water was before mixing anything in. i followed the recipe at the start of post, i use Botanicare sweets raw for choice of carb.

No need to pH the bennies. a littel 6.5 water will not fuck your plants up.
 
We have been working a new program in some of our coco/mineral mix 4x8 beds- no ammoniacal or nitrate N are applied to the soil. We are supplying the plants N needs via foliar feeding, enhancing amino acid activity in the soil to supply organic N (in molecular form) and counting on the nitrogen fixers to provide the plant w/ N2, (gaseous), from the atmosphere. The rationale is to avoid salt build-up from excessive nitrates in our beds.
 
That wasn't entirely accurate. We use crab and/or shrimp shell meal in our mineral mix which supplies some soluble N at the get go and some graduated release N during the run. By being stingy w/ the nitrates in the mix and relying on foliar feeding and microbial N fixers to pull N2 out of the atmosphere, we don't have nitrate build-up and can reuse the soil by fortifying the soil w/ med-long coco fiber and additional mineral mix. The focus in this thread, is the part about the nitrogen fixers.
Click 80- thanks for picking up on the Langbeinite and adding to the knowledge base. I know that Alien highly recommends it and uses it in his soil recipe to help improve nute uptake among other things. Cool stuff.
 
I am very interested in the crab and/or shrimp shell/meal now since I am going soil. I haven't had time but I am wondering about the microbial effects on getting the Chitosan (?) out of it and into the soil/plants.
 
about the ph...i have been going over articles and most say that the root/microbe relationship handles it for us in the big balancing act.
 
Using super soil I have not pH'd anything this run and my plants have never been healthier.

outwest

Subcool's Super Soil?

Also, didn't someone mention good tea's made from Ancient Forest?
 
Yep, subcools super soil.

outwest
 
anyone use green sand in their mixes or via tea? picked up 3lbs from the co-op today.

"Greensand has been used as a soil conditioner and fertilizer since the 1700s - A long-term - slow-releasing fertilizer of marine origin - Includes iron-potash silicates and unique properties that loosen clay soils and increase the moisture-holding capacity of both clay and sand"

did a google search for green sand + canna and got 0% results.
 
I use it in the SC mix.

outwest
 
same here...I seem to remember that when you were getting holes in your Tshirts you mentioned a PH adjuster that I didn't recognize. So kinda just wondering what are good ph adjusters if you need to use them that are more microbe friendly.

I made my own pH down with sulfuric acid. I thought the bennies were eating holes in all my clothes but it was the acid.

I only add acid to the res. I never pH my tea. I also use small amounts and dilute, and then add to the res.by the time it gets to the rhizosphere it is all mixed up.
 
Page 16 of 87 · Replies 301–320 of 1,733
Back
Top Bottom