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Tea Recipe

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Tea Recipe

Capulator 1,732 Replies 370,256 Views
Page 35 of 87 · Replies 681–700 of 1,733
#681
kushsmoker30 said:
Cap do u use molasses in ur tea when u hit em with full strength tea? also when u say pour into the crown does that mean u just pour a ku amount on the top but not enough to come out the bottom?

i was wondering if maybe the 80-100mls of molasses into 4 gals of water for the tea was too much molasses to be pouring at full strength n maybe that was the prob.

1 more thing i remembered a min ago reading caps recent posts, if ur in soil i don't think u need tea as often like some1 in coco or rockwool as they don't live as good in those mediums like they would in soil.
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Thanks for the advice....And for your question with molasses - I've been using 200ml in a 4gal brew with great results.
 
#682
GR33NL3AF said:
Thanks for the advice....And for your question with molasses - I've been using 200ml in a 4gal brew with great results.
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200ml to 4/gals when feeding full strength?
i know 200ml in 4 gals diluted at 1 cup to 5-10 gals aint shit, that was fine i use to dump 4 gals in my res that had 50-55 gals in it n it was good.
 
#683
is diluting the tea to gallons of water as affective as diluting more tea to gallons of water? Cap are you still using the hibrix as a source of food? i use hibrix when i make the tea and i feed with liquid carboload when im not using the tea.
 
#684
GR33NL3AF said:
Damn, 1 cup per 5 gallons??? This is the same for soil? I've been running 1 gallon of tea to 10 gallons of water...
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same for soil. :)

kushsmoker30 said:
Cap do u use molasses in ur tea when u hit em with full strength tea? also when u say pour into the crown does that mean u just pour a ku amount on the top but not enough to come out the bottom?

i was wondering if maybe the 80-100mls of molasses into 4 gals of water for the tea was too much molasses to be pouring at full strength n maybe that was the prob.

1 more thing i remembered a min ago reading caps recent posts, if ur in soil i don't think u need tea as often like some1 in coco or rockwool as they don't live as good in those mediums like they would in soil.
Click to expand...

I use earthjuice hibrix but it is very acidic. This is why I will pH the tea BEFORE adding bennies. When I add earthjuice to the RO water the pH goes down to around 4.0. Bennies will do better towards neutral.
 
#685
Capulator said:
Yes. The salt levels in your nutrient solution are not nearly enough to kill the bennies. They will be just fine.



If you are in soil and you are using the nute pack, you will be able to cut back on your nutes by a significant amount. It's important to learn how to feel what your plants need and cut back when necessary. Many times, less is more! keep it simple. I have a strong feeling you are overdoing it trying to "fix". We all have been there. It's important when you see symptoms to not panic and start throwing more "cures" at the plant. Generally the best thing to do is flush with a very mild nutrient solution (25% of peak) and wait for things to get better. It takes time for plants to respond. It will not happen overnight or even a few days. I had a pH problem in my MPB this round and the plants that were affected took weeks to recover.

Experience will help you diagnose. That, and using this site as a tool for help instead of a place to brag when things look good in the garden.
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cmon cap it ain't bragging , its just "word".
veg room was looking crappy, had some thripes, room was to hott, brewed act tea with caps bennies, also foilared with the tea and this is the result.. true believer in the teas with cap micros in there.

051
 
#686
Capulator said:
same for soil. :)



I use earthjuice hibrix but it is very acidic. This is why I will pH the tea BEFORE adding bennies. When I add earthjuice to the RO water the pH goes down to around 4.0. Bennies will do better towards neutral.
Click to expand...


Shit, I haven't been ph'ing it....:(
 
#688
On the question of foam, I've just discovered something: upon switching my molasses source from Plantation brand to Botanicare's Strapped I've seen a great deal more foam than before. I don't know if this affects the resulting tea but it's an interesting data point. What kind of molasses have others here been using?
 
#689
Bountea Bioactivator powdered molasses FTF! (for the foam!)

I try to vary my compost sources. Sometimes I'll use boogie brew at a tbsp/gal with everything else and that combo creates the most foam.

outwest
 
#690
buddahslave said:
How often do you add the tea to rez? Every time I water do I use the tea or do I add tea every other watering or so? I don't know how much longer I can experiment with the tea I am bleeding money like Carrie on prom night, I already lost two harvests due to my lack of experience with it. I'm making ajustments but don't want to go bankrupt in the process!
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What exactly happened when you lost the last two harvests?
 
#691
That's interesting that people are getting different foam quantities. I thought molasses was made to grade, and this kind of resulted in uniformity.

I do know that I have had different results with Alfalfa Tea with different brands of alfalfa meal. What i mean is some take much longer for the tea to get that orangish tint to it.

I definitely get way more foam with Bountea Bioactivator but I put that down to the fact that it has a surfactant (yucca shidgera) in it.
 
#692
Speaking of trace minerals. I think it was in this thread sometime ago someone was asking about sourcing individual nutrients and minerals, organic that is.

I have this link. They have Azomite (and a bunch of other interesting stuff) which is what the poster in the thread was specifically asking about. I think it might be in the Subsoil Recipe?
 
#693
I notice a huge difference in viscosity between the two blackstrap brands I was using - the Botanicare molasses is much thinner. I'd imagine this only reflects a difference in water content, but I don't know.
 
#694
To be honest I think I prefer grocery store. I need to compare the price although I think I did this once before and it was comparable. I have read many posts from people who say that the Brer Rabbit (i think) brand is best. I think we had a long discussion somewhere on the farm about molasses, brix content and grading of molasses. I think it's like anything else, this is something that can be easily overthought. I really don't understand what Horticultural Molasses means unless it does not have preservatives in it maybe????
 
#695
I think sulfur is used to kill off microbial growth in molasses - which is why we must use unsulfured.
 
#697
click80 said:
What exactly happened when you lost the last two harvests?
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Don't really know what went wrong, but about two weeks in veg my leaves started to turn a green yellow mix after being a lush green for the first two weeks. Then it started to stunt and yellow out bad. I don't know whats wrong and im starting to see my new run is starting to show signs of green yellow. Ima try running straight ph water for a week and see if it stabilizes.
 
#698
buddahslave said:
Don't really know what went wrong, but about two weeks in veg my leaves started to turn a green yellow mix after being a lush green for the first two weeks. Then it started to stunt and yellow out bad. I don't know whats wrong and im starting to see my new run is starting to show signs of green yellow. Ima try running straight ph water for a week and see if it stabilizes.
Click to expand...

I'm sorry dude, that sucks. I hate that feeling when you don't know wtf is up...have you tried foliar spraying them with something like Bills Special or GO BioMarine? That would narrow it down some. If it greens up after foliar spraying then it's an uptake issue and you can concentrate on the root zone???
 
#700
buddahslave said:
Don't really know what went wrong, but about two weeks in veg my leaves started to turn a green yellow mix after being a lush green for the first two weeks. Then it started to stunt and yellow out bad. I don't know whats wrong and im starting to see my new run is starting to show signs of green yellow. Ima try running straight ph water for a week and see if it stabilizes.
Click to expand...

how often are you watering?
 
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