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Tea Recipe

  • Thread starter Thread starter Capulator
  • Start date Start date Jan 10, 2012
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Tea Recipe

Capulator Jan 10, 2012 1,732 Replies 371,713 Views
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kushsmoker30

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#761
sup Cap, i'm bubbling a tea right now root pac n foliar pack some sweets n molasses also worm castings. i have a few spider mites, if i foliar spay will tha tea get rid of em?
 
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GR33NL3AF

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#762
kushsmoker30 said:
sup Cap, i'm bubbling a tea right now root pac n foliar pack some sweets n molasses also worm castings. i have a few spider mites, if i foliar spay will tha tea get rid of em?
Click to expand...

I had a mite problem, had to consistantly spray oils....sense using tea (not foliar feeding) it seems like the plants are able to fight them off - I've only had to spray once and it appears they are gone when normally I would spray 5-6 times a grow just to surpress them from an infestation.
 
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Capulator

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#763
kushsmoker30 said:
sup Cap, i'm bubbling a tea right now root pac n foliar pack some sweets n molasses also worm castings. i have a few spider mites, if i foliar spay will tha tea get rid of em?
Click to expand...

it has been know to do this yes, but it can take around 6 days for infection to occur. This is why the tea as a foliar is a good preventative.
 
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kushsmoker30

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#764
Capulator said:
it has been know to do this yes, but it can take around 6 days for infection to occur. This is why the tea as a foliar is a good preventative.
Click to expand...

thank's cap, figure better spray since i didn't use stinky fish mix this time.
 
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kushsmoker30

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#765
hey Cap i've been thinking bout giving my girls some tea full strength, most likely prob 4 me last time was i hit hugo block with a 32 OZ. cup of full strength....maybe 2 much?

so what u recommend i hit a 2 gal pot of coco with? got some girls i trans planted a lil to early n i want to kick roots into over drive. Thanks
 
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Capulator

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#766
kushsmoker30 said:
hey Cap i've been thinking bout giving my girls some tea full strength, most likely prob 4 me last time was i hit hugo block with a 32 OZ. cup of full strength....maybe 2 much?

so what u recommend i hit a 2 gal pot of coco with? got some girls i trans planted a lil to early n i want to kick roots into over drive. Thanks
Click to expand...
full strength is ful strength. If you dont have bugs its probably not necessary, but you can't overdue it since it is not a fertilizer and has no salts. Best way to kick the roots in to overdrive is apply as usual, and don't overwater!
 
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GanjaAL

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#767
When doing preventitive maintainance for mites do you spray when lights are off top and bottom of the leaf?

Also Cap what strength do recomend when doing foiler spraying with the tea?

Thanks brother for a great product.
 
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Capulator

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#768
GanjaAL said:
When doing preventitive maintainance for mites do you spray when lights are off top and bottom of the leaf?

Also Cap what strength do recomend when doing foiler spraying with the tea?

Thanks brother for a great product.
Click to expand...

Yes. full strength is perfect for spraying. Night time is great because RH is up. Higher RH (60ish+) is best. Just remember to let it settle and take/pour the liquid off the top to avoid the talc carrier.

You're welcome!
 
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kushsmoker30

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#769
Capulator said:
full strength is ful strength. If you dont have bugs its probably not necessary, but you can't overdue it since it is not a fertilizer and has no salts. Best way to kick the roots in to overdrive is apply as usual, and don't overwater!
Click to expand...

yea no joke on the apply as usual, i had been making teas but not using em cuz of 1 reason or another n i noticed te dif. Thanks for ur reply

Capulator said:
Yes. full strength is perfect for spraying. Night time is great because RH is up. Higher RH (60ish+) is best. Just remember to let it settle and take/pour the liquid off the top to avoid the talc carrier.

You're welcome!
Click to expand...


so if i let tea settle, i won't need to filter it?
 
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gumby420

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#770
when you guys are using teas and feeding. i saw Cap saying a few pages back his schedule was something like feed -feed- water- feed- tea. ive always used the big companies for feeding such as GH or Fox Farm, so the whole tea thing is very new to me. id assume since there is synthetic stuff it wouldnt be good for all the living microbes and such. so basically what are you using for feeding? thanks
 
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Capulator

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#771
kushsmoker30 said:
yea no joke on the apply as usual, i had been making teas but not using em cuz of 1 reason or another n i noticed te dif. Thanks for ur reply




so if i let tea settle, i won't need to filter it?
Click to expand...



no need to filter if you let it settle for a few minutes, and take the liquid off the top.
 
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Capulator

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#772
gumby420 said:
when you guys are using teas and feeding. i saw Cap saying a few pages back his schedule was something like feed -feed- water- feed- tea. ive always used the big companies for feeding such as GH or Fox Farm, so the whole tea thing is very new to me. id assume since there is synthetic stuff it wouldnt be good for all the living microbes and such. so basically what are you using for feeding? thanks
Click to expand...

synthetic is ok. The tea has the sugars in it which will sustain the bennies.

If you were to only apply synthetics all the time and only bennies with no source of sugar/carbs (ie molasses), then the bennies would run out of food eventually and would die or go back in to stasis.

synthetic ferts do not kill off bennies, but a lack of organic matter for them to feed on will.
 
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kushsmoker30

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#773
Capulator said:
no need to filter if you let it settle for a few minutes, and take the liquid off the top.
Click to expand...

Thanks. i believe that not properly filtering my tea may b the cause of the problems i had a while back, i was filtering with panty hoes but not letting tea settle. from now on i will let settle 4 at least 15 min.
 
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We Solidarity

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#774
whats all this strain-your-tea talk? I have never strained my tea, or let it settle - i find that most of the white powder sets to the bottom of my can (i'm using one of those brute trashcans made for the dollies- they have a raised center, all the talc powder usually goes off to the grooves in the sides and is thick like clay...usually have to scrape it out.

before I made tea and was using the packs straight i would let it settle and skim off the top...but if you make tea aren't you straining out some of the bigger cultures?
 
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GR33NL3AF

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#775
I usually dump my tea into a diluted res and lay the sludge down as a top dressing....shit works wonders..

Question: If I brew 2 gallons of concentrate what would be the appropriate amount of castings and molasses needed to keep those bennies happy without using/wasting any of it?

Reason I ask is im running low on EWCs and Molasses and I need to top dress and brew a tea with the EWCs and I'm currently too much of a tight ass to go buy some more...
 
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We Solidarity

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#776
GR33NL3AF said:
I usually dump my tea into a diluted res and lay the sludge down as a top dressing....shit works wonders..

Question: If I brew 2 gallons of concentrate what would be the appropriate amount of castings and molasses needed to keep those bennies happy without using/wasting any of it?

Reason I ask is im running low on EWCs and Molasses and I need to top dress and brew a tea with the EWCs and I'm currently too much of a tight ass to go buy some more...
Click to expand...

i've brewed tea successfully without worm castings, but not without molasses. some bacteria may require the EWCs but i'd say molasses is more important. as far as how much, you can get by with spoonfuls of castings and i'd say for the molasses 15 ml/gal will get you by, if you brew for 2 days, but 25 ml/gal is ideal. I know some people who do a 48 hr brew, adding 15 ml/gal one day and 10 ml/gal the next.
 
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GR33NL3AF

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#777
We Solidarity said:
i've brewed tea successfully without worm castings, but not without molasses. some bacteria may require the EWCs but i'd say molasses is more important. as far as how much, you can get by with spoonfuls of castings and i'd say for the molasses 15 ml/gal will get you by, if you brew for 2 days, but 25 ml/gal is ideal. I know some people who do a 48 hr brew, adding 15 ml/gal one day and 10 ml/gal the next.
Click to expand...

Thanks hombre, the shit is 'a-brewin'
 
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Capulator

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#778
We Solidarity said:
i've brewed tea successfully without worm castings, but not without molasses. some bacteria may require the EWCs but i'd say molasses is more important. as far as how much, you can get by with spoonfuls of castings and i'd say for the molasses 15 ml/gal will get you by, if you brew for 2 days, but 25 ml/gal is ideal. I know some people who do a 48 hr brew, adding 15 ml/gal one day and 10 ml/gal the next.
Click to expand...

molasses is more important than EWC when using the packs withotu a doubt. I use 20-25 mL / gal.
 
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Capulator

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#779
We Solidarity said:
whats all this strain-your-tea talk? I have never strained my tea, or let it settle - i find that most of the white powder sets to the bottom of my can (i'm using one of those brute trashcans made for the dollies- they have a raised center, all the talc powder usually goes off to the grooves in the sides and is thick like clay...usually have to scrape it out.

before I made tea and was using the packs straight i would let it settle and skim off the top...but if you make tea aren't you straining out some of the bigger cultures?
Click to expand...

I do not strain. I agree with you that most of the talc carrier settles to the bottom in a sludge. I just kill the bubbler and pour out my tea, or take it off the top with a pitcher.
 
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GR33NL3AF

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#780
Capulator said:
molasses is more important than EWC when using the packs withotu a doubt. I use 20-25 mL / gal.
Click to expand...

If I added 2-3 cups of EWC in a 3 gallon brew, roughly how long would it take for the bacteria to break that down so it is immediately available when watered in?
Thanks
GR33N
 
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Replies 1,732
Views 371,713
Started Jan 10, 2012
Latest post Mar 18, 2020
Starter Capulator
Forum Nutrients and Fertilizers

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