I'll say from my experience that full strength tea foliar every 48hrs, tops and bottoms of leaves, coupled with aact soil drench, was the round no pests were observed anywhere.

My understanding is it has a more prophylactic effect. Leaves and roots become thriving centers of active, competitive microbial life. Lots of little mouths to feed.

If you have a mite infestation, I'd recommend starting with a Spinosad product. Its bacterial and attacks mites and other arthropods. You can use it both foliar and in roots. Plants can uptake it. That's solved mite attacks for me before.

Merit75 and Forbid are the top-level insecticides I'm familiar with which destroy all aphids, mites, pretty much anything. That's a last resort and shouldn't be done in flower. And if you bring those, **protect yourself**.

As for Cap's tea, I have no experience with it. His teas are very intriguing to me, I've read a lot of his information and advice, and he really seems legit. Selling a product and being a contributor here can get muddy and understandably creates skepticism, but he offers tons of help and offers an affordable formula.
I'd rather buy his packets, sight unseen, over VermiTea, any day. They're overpriced scam artists nonplus.

Good luck with your bugs GO. Mites are the Devil's Own Satanic Pubi-crabs. Death to your mites, every last one of the little bastards.

Leaves exude waste and tiny lifeforms consume it. Good ones increase health, bad ones attack plants. Beneficial ones are found in activated tea and provide a hostile environment for pests.
Best way I can explain it with brevity from my understanding. Again, good luck.

Gifted0ne said:

So this is basically the heisenberg tea in packets? So the Aquashield, zho, rapid start, ancient forest, molasses tea i make i can just foliar it to kill my broad mites? And adding the ZHO right before using??

Click to expand...

where did this info come from?

Funkadelic said:

I'll say from my experience that full strength tea foliar every 48hrs, tops and bottoms of leaves, coupled with aact soil drench, was the round no pests were observed anywhere.

My understanding is it has a more prophylactic effect. Leaves and roots become thriving centers of active, competitive microbial life. Lots of little mouths to feed.

If you have a mite infestation, I'd recommend starting with a Spinosad product. Its bacterial and attacks mites and other arthropods. You can use it both foliar and in roots. Plants can uptake it. That's solved mite attacks for me before.

Merit75 and Forbid are the top-level insecticides I'm familiar with which destroy all aphids, mites, pretty much anything. That's a last resort and shouldn't be done in flower. And if you bring those, **protect yourself**.

As for Cap's tea, I have no experience with it. His teas are very intriguing to me, I've read a lot of his information and advice, and he really seems legit. Selling a product and being a contributor here can get muddy and understandably creates skepticism, but he offers tons of help and offers an affordable formula.
I'd rather buy his packets, sight unseen, over VermiTea, any day. They're overpriced scam artists nonplus.

Good luck with your bugs GO. Mites are the Devil's Own Satanic Pubi-crabs. Death to your mites, every last one of the little bastards.

Click to expand...

Because of its location i cant use forbid/avid, its too harmful, I guess ill try the full strength tea ev 2 days and hope it helps.. Today i dunked both plants in safer soap and Zone from dutchmaster but i doubt it will touch broad mites.

Does it harm a room to spray excess tea around? like i have one of those electronic weed killer sprayers where its basically just a wand thats a pump with a button. If i spray the tea all around i bet it get pretty messy quick. Id recommend using those sprayers btw they are super easy to use.

We Solidarity said:

where did this info come from?

Click to expand...

Info?? it was a question, i was asking if the products i use for Heisenberg beneficial tea are the same microbes and extracts that make up his packs.. Reason i ask is cause i have broad mites and was curious if i can just use my tea to kill them. simple as that.

Hey bud, yes tea is safe. Just not in thick paste, which eventually builds up. Just keep an eye and don't have thick pasty build up and you'll be okay.

Hit Em ASAP. I use Xtreme Gardening tea because I like their granular mykos product. A lot.

If you're battling an infestation, you may want to escalate to spinosad. Immediately. Keep hitting hard until they're gone. Mites have been the greatest threat I've experienced.

Its really good you're on top of it.

If you are trying to manage mites with just tea, I recommend full strength, no dilution, every 48 s, leaves drenched tops and bottoms.

If that doesn't clear them up in a week or ten days, I would spinosad next. Feed and foliar both, like the tea. But only if full regular tea doesn't work.

Funkadelic said:

If you are trying to manage mites with just tea, I recommend full strength, no dilution, every 48 s, leaves drenched tops and bottoms.

If that doesn't clear them up in a week or ten days, I would spinosad next. Feed and foliar both, like the tea. But only if full regular tea doesn't work.

Click to expand...

Most helpful advise ive gotten from anyone past few days.. appreciate the help!

Gifted0ne said:

Info?? it was a question, i was asking if the products i use for Heisenberg beneficial tea are the same microbes and extracts that make up his packs.. Reason i ask is cause i have broad mites and was curious if i can just use my tea to kill them. simple as that.

Click to expand...

ah I see now. The answer is no - the microbes in his packs are highly concentrated and each play specific roles in the environment and prevention. Not to say brewing tea without the packs isn't beneficial - it just won't have the extra "kick" or be as effective of a preventative.

edit to add - I spray my tea everywhere. even at/through the fans in my room. I figure as long as I'm not hitting glass/bulbs/electronics it can't hurt. And when using cap's packs I usually see pests go away with full strength drenches/foliar every four days.

click80 said:

I can tell now that foodstocks and ratios seem to have a hell of a lot of effect on DO levels. I can understand now why microbeman stresses how important it is to test.

Click to expand...

I'd like to hear more about your DO monitoring.

Gifted0ne said:

Ahh so u only answer people's questions that give u money lol. i get it.

Click to expand...

I did not see your question but now I see you asked before the humic acid question.

This is not heisenberg tea in a packet. I am giving credit to heisenberg in the 1st post of thread, because I enjoyed his tea thread. Heisenberg recommends zho, aquashield, etc. None of those will be effective against broads. What I do is substitute my root and foliar packs for all the other stuff. The foliar pack has been known to destroy broads, RA, FG larvae, whitefly, etc.. This product is nothing like zho (a mycorhhizal product) or aquashield. There is not one species in the foliar pack that will be found in any EWC or ancient forest.

The root pack has all of the species that protect the roots as well as activate the plants SAR. It has the same actives as 5 common products put together, and then some, all at much higher concentrations.

So by using both together, both in the rhizosphere and phyllosphere, you are providing an atmosphere which is not conducive to the survival of bugs and baddies.

ZHO: 37 spores /gram each species endo mycos, 2.3 million spores/gram trichoderma
Aquashield: Who knows what species. It's a diluted liquid compost solution that is pretty much clear, so I would guess it's HEAVILY diluted like most other hydro products.

Nute pack: 125 spores /gram each species endo mycorrhizae. 5 billion spores per gram azospirillum. I do not recommend the nute pack in the tea or in a pure hydro setting. Because it is mainly concentrated mycorrhizae. Mycorrhizae need to be in the presence of plant root exudates to come out of stasis. There are no root exudates in tea, because there are no roots. Also, I have read that mycos can act as a carbon drain on a plant in a pure hydro setting, as the mycos are utilizing sugars/carbs excreted by plant roots and giving nothing in return as all water/available nutes are readily available in a hydro solution. So in coco, peat, soil, etc I would use the nute pack but in RW, hydroton, aero, etc.. I would not. This is why I separated the nute and root packs otherwise I would have put them all together like great white does.

Root pack: 5 billion spores/gram EACH of:

3 species of Trichoderma
several Bacillus species
2 species Streptomyces
Pseudomonas

several others unlisted.

plus:
Rhodospirillum
Rhodopseudomonas (compare to photosynth plus)

Foliar pack:

Confidential ATM. But here are some pics from my testimonials thread from end users (from the forum and using the foliar pack):

MITES:




RA:





No I do not only answer questions that give me money, and I am sure that will become apparent if you read through the many hundreds of posts I have on this forum. Just trying to bring an awesome product to market. Very fair price, super concentrated, extremely diverse, works like a charm. I answer any and all questions promptly and if I don't know the answer I try to find it.

Thanks and sorry I missed your post. Next time quote me so I get an alert.

-Cap

Hey cap, I was just browsing eBay and couldn't find your packs. Are they still on the site for purchasing? If not where do i pick them up at? (Plug away) hah! Thanks a ton.

Top,

Here's a link to Cap's Packs:

http://www.ogbiowar.com/

Max

Topofthecrop said:

Hey cap, I was just browsing eBay and couldn't find your packs. Are they still on the site for purchasing? If not where do i pick them up at? (Plug away) hah! Thanks a ton.

Click to expand...

If you do an ebay search for "for the farm only" they will still come up. Now that the site is up it is better to get it there though.

Capulator said:

If you do an ebay search for "for the farm only" they will still come up. Now that the site is up it is better to get it there though.

Click to expand...

Very informative on your products.. Im in hydroton/rockwool starters so when/if the products i already have dont work I will order the packs and just purchase the root and foliar. I should be able to use Ancient forest with it no prob right.. And rapid start in place of alfalfa and kelp.

Also is what is the specific reason that these products are more active and diverse at the 24hr mark opposed to the 48 that heins describes as best.

O by the way just noticed the location from ebay, would i be able to pick those packs up with cash, im in LA.

The products you have are not going to work on broad mites. I can tell you that for a fact.

Rapid start is not a replacement for alfalfa or kelp. They are all very different.

I like 24 hours to maintain species diversity. You may brew longer. It is important to have a microscope if you want to get very serious about tea, otherwise I think it best to follow the simple recipes.

No pick up sorry. There are stores in LA that carry it though. I prefer you order off the site and use the coupon code "farmer". thank you.

Capulator said:

The products you have are not going to work on broad mites. I can tell you that for a fact.

Rapid start is not a replacement for alfalfa or kelp. They are all very different.

I like 24 hours to maintain species diversity. You may brew longer. It is important to have a microscope if you want to get very serious about tea, otherwise I think it best to follow the simple recipes.

No pick up sorry. There are stores in LA that carry it though. I prefer you order off the site and use the coupon code "farmer". thank you.

Click to expand...

ill get it off the site then. this is why i thought rapid would be ok..

Gifted0ne said:

ill get it off the site then. this is why i thought rapid would be ok..
View attachment 342290

Click to expand...

I did not know it had alfalfa, but still thats a far cry from kelp. I love rapid start I use it every run, but it is not a substitute for me for kelp and some alfalfa.

Anyone know if I wanna use AN powdered carboload instead of mollasess. How much to use in a 5 gallon brew?

100ml molasses has like 65grams of carbs. So 65 grams of carboload?

Donkdbz said:

Anyone know if I wanna use AN powdered carboload instead of mollasess. How much to use in a 5 gallon brew?

100ml molasses has like 65grams of carbs. So 65 grams of carboload?

Click to expand...

i use about 0.50% - 0.75% molasses in any brew i make fwiw

1gal x 0.50% = 19 mL/gal (rounded) of molasses
1gal x 0.75% = 28 mL/gal