Tea Recipe

[Capulator]

Anyone know if I wanna use AN powdered carboload instead of mollasess. How much to use in a 5 gallon brew?

100ml molasses has like 65grams of carbs. So 65 grams of carboload?

I don't know. I think back when I was using carbo load for this I followed the instructions for normal dose and just threw it in the tea.

 

[Donkdbz]

Yo so whats up with with only using the Root Pack for Tea? Also why only 2-4 hour brew on website vs the normal 18-36 for bacteria?

 

[Theoneandonly Z]

Yo so whats up with with only using the Root Pack for Tea? Also why only 2-4 hour brew on website vs the normal 18-36 for bacteria?

(*Edit to Edit - i replied earlier, but i misread ur post. hope this might help)

Donkdbz, i see what ur saying. what im doing right now is brewing my normal tea and adding my og biowar within the last hours of brew. Cap said somewhere that his packs dont replicate within a tea, it just brings them out of stasis - which makes them go to work as soon as possible. Ive also seen it mentioned that og biowar does not need to be brewed during the whole duration of the tea. this is why i throw it in 2-6 hours(whenever is convenient to me)before my brew is finished.

the root pack doesnt have to be used in a tea, its just recommended to. u can simply add it to unchlorinated water and water it in, or u can mix it with ur medium

 

[Max Frost]

(*Edit to Edit - i replied earlier, but i misread ur post. hope this might help)

Donkdbz, i see what ur saying. what im doing right now is brewing my normal tea and adding my og biowar within the last hours of brew. Cap said somewhere that his packs dont replicate within a tea, it just brings them out of stasis - which makes them go to work as soon as possible. Ive also seen it mentioned that og biowar does not need to be brewed during the whole duration of the tea. this is why i throw it in 2-6 hours(whenever is convenient to me)before my brew is finished.

the root pack doesnt have to be used in a tea, its just recommended to. u can simply add it to unchlorinated water and water it in, or u can mix it with ur medium

Just curious...why would the microbes in the packs not replicate in the presence of oxygen and a food source? Doesn't sound right to me. I would think they'd take off multiplying no matter if the source is the packs or from compost or EWC.

 

[Theoneandonly Z]

Just curious...why would the microbes in the packs not replicate in the presence of oxygen and a food source? Doesn't sound right to me. I would think they'd take off multiplying no matter if the source is the packs or from compost or EWC.

from what i understand, the spores used in the packs (mainly mycorrhizae )activate upon root surface contact, not through air aeration/agitation. but its good to apply to the tea because it brings them out of stasis. however, i base this info on what i have read. im not a scientist, but ive had the chance to look at slides under a scope and see different results in different methods of brewing (simple shit, mainly looking at populations and acitivity). even if i could test og biowar, i would never be able to identify whats ogbiowar vs other microbes if you know what im saying. + i think Cap may have mentioned the same thing about the packs

 

[ArthritiSux]

What theres a coupon code.....damn!

 

[Gifted0ne]

from what i understand, the spores used in the packs (mainly mycorrhizae )activate upon root surface contact, not through air aeration/agitation. but its good to apply to the tea because it brings them out of stasis. however, i base this info on what i have read. im not a scientist, but ive had the chance to look at slides under a scope and see different results in different methods of brewing (simple shit, mainly looking at populations and acitivity). even if i could test og biowar, i would never be able to identify whats ogbiowar vs other microbes if you know what im saying. + i think Cap may have mentioned the same thing about the packs

I wasnt aware of that either till i just read it. So basically the 24-48hrs of brewing is for the casting or AF to multiply microbes, and then 2-4hrs before the brew is done add the root pack and if desired foliar pack, and finally within 1hr before use add the nute pack (mycos) before applying to the roots.

 

[Capulator]

Yo so whats up with with only using the Root Pack for Tea? Also why only 2-4 hour brew on website vs the normal 18-36 for bacteria?

Disregard. I was in a panic because I was reading that MEt52 will die after 24 hours in liquid, however... what they mean is liquid no being aerated. Found out aerated liquid is A-o.k.

We talked about this didn't we? I like shorter brew times regardless of protzoa amounts and fungal dominant etc.. I'm not a tea expert by any measure most of the shit I say is regurgitated from my readings and not so much from my experience like someone like microbeman.

So brewing for a few hours will be effective. It's simple. I can make sure people aren't losing species due to competition, etc...

 

[Gifted0ne]

Disregard. I was in a panic because I was reading that MEt52 will die after 24 hours in liquid, however... what they mean is liquid no being aerated. Found out aerated liquid is A-o.k.

We talked about this didn't we? I like shorter brew times regardless of protzoa amounts and fungal dominant etc.. I'm not a tea expert by any measure most of the shit I say is regurgitated from my readings and not so much from my experience like someone like microbeman.

So brewing for a few hours will be effective. It's simple. I can make sure people aren't losing species due to competition, etc...

Sorry to bother u with another question but on the site it says 100ml molasses to 4 gallons, which is about 1.68 tablespoons per gallon, isn't this way too much for 2-4 hrs brew? Id assume carbs will end up in ur reservoir, which for dwc isnt good.

 

[Capulator]

I wasnt aware of that either till i just read it. So basically the 24-48hrs of brewing is for the casting or AF to multiply microbes, and then 2-4hrs before the brew is done add the root pack and if desired foliar pack, and finally within 1hr before use add the nute pack (mycos) before applying to the roots.

from what i understand, the spores used in the packs (mainly mycorrhizae )activate upon root surface contact, not through air aeration/agitation. but its good to apply to the tea because it brings them out of stasis. however, i base this info on what i have read. im not a scientist, but ive had the chance to look at slides under a scope and see different results in different methods of brewing (simple shit, mainly looking at populations and acitivity). even if i could test og biowar, i would never be able to identify whats ogbiowar vs other microbes if you know what im saying. + i think Cap may have mentioned the same thing about the packs

Wrong guys the nute pack is the only one with mycorrhizae. You may add this at the end of the brew. Some people brew it in as well. It also has azospirillum, frateuria, bacillus, etc.. so yeah you can brew it or not.

The root pack is great for tea. The foliar pack is fine as well. If you are an inexperienced brewer, then keep brews short and simple.

 

[Capulator]

Sorry to bother u with another question but on the site it says 100ml molasses to 4 gallons, which is about 1.68 tablespoons per gallon, isn't this way too much for 2-4 hrs brew? Id assume carbs will end up in ur reservoir, which for dwc isnt good.

Remember you are diluting the tea in a dwc 1 cup per 5 gallons.

 

[Gifted0ne]

Remember you are diluting the tea in a dwc 1 cup per 5 gallons.

Ok.. i am pretty inexperienced for sure but just like to note most people that brew 24-48 tea's use about 1/3-1/2 that molasses amount. I think im just going to brew the tea until the molasses smell goes away, seems like a good idea for dwc.

 

[Capulator]

Ok.. i am pretty inexperienced for sure but just like to note most people that brew 24-48 tea's use about 1/3-1/2 that molasses amount. I think im just going to brew the tea until the molasses smell goes away, seems like a good idea for dwc.

I have been running the tea in a RDWC for over a year. No rot. Do what works for you man. :) Just straight DWC... yeah maybe less. I imagine there is less DO in the water.

 

[Max Frost]

Good point Cap! I had been wondering if the molasses (and possibly other ingredients depending upon what you use) wouldn't make the DO content lower. For those that brew longer, I wonder if it might make sense to add smaller amounts of Molasses at several points during the brewing so there is always a higher DO concentration. The entire point to the Molasses is just to be a food source for the microbes. Wouldn't they be just as well fed this way? I wonder at what rate the Molasses gets used up in the brew?

 

[Dunge]

Good point Cap! I had been wondering if the molasses (and possibly other ingredients depending upon what you use) wouldn't make the DO content lower. For those that brew longer, I wonder if it might make sense to add smaller amounts of Molasses at several points during the brewing so there is always a higher DO concentration. The entire point to the Molasses is just to be a food source for the microbes. Wouldn't they be just as well fed this way? I wonder at what rate the Molasses gets used up in the brew?

I'm thinking along the same lines--- molasses additions need to be made carefully or you risk a microbial bloom that would make it impossible to keep O2 levels up thus harming aerobic microbes and reducing diversity.
I'm thinking a drip feed or peristaltic pump to meter sugar water.

 

[Theoneandonly Z]

Wrong guys the nute pack is the only one with mycorrhizae. You may add this at the end of the brew. Some people brew it in as well. It also has azospirillum, frateuria, bacillus, etc.. so yeah you can brew it or not.

The root pack is great for tea. The foliar pack is fine as well. If you are an inexperienced brewer, then keep brews short and simple.

alrighty, my bad for any misleading info. thanks for the corrections. so will the species in the Root Pack multiply in a tea? should i let the root pack brew in my tea for more than the 4-6 hours that im currently doing? sorry if you have already answered these q's, but ive scowered ur threads for info and all the info starts to pile up in my head, and this pot smoking son of a bitch can only handle so much:cigar: ha thanks for ur products and guidelines, no matter which method i chose, my plants seem to be healthy and kicking.Z

 

[Capulator]

alrighty, my bad for any misleading info. thanks for the corrections. so will the species in the Root Pack multiply in a tea? should i let the root pack brew in my tea for more than the 4-6 hours that im currently doing? sorry if you have already answered these q's, but ive scowered ur threads for info and all the info starts to pile up in my head, and this pot smoking son of a bitch can only handle so much:cigar: ha thanks for ur products and guidelines, no matter which method i chose, my plants seem to be healthy and kicking.Z

Z,

You can brew the root pack. I advise not to brew for longer than 24 hours, but that can be taken with a grain of salt given opinions are like assholes (everybodys got one!) The original purpose of the thread was to promote using caps bennies with the tea, because when compared to heisenberg tea additives (GW, ZHO, aquashield)... Well, let's just say that in my biased opinion my packs kick the shit out of all of those products (strictly in terms of concentration and species diversity).

Let me be clear: the packs (all three of them) were meant to be used with water only. Using them in a tea is an afterthought. They will work fine with just water. They will also work in tea. The root pack has many bacteria which will multiply rapidly given o2 and a food source. Rapid multiplication of some species can, over time, lead to the diminishing of other species as they are all competing in a tea for food and O2. Bacteria will come out of spore state and multiply much faster than fungi. Yes you can brew a fungal dominant tea or bacteria dominant tea. You also need a microscope and a significant understanding of the "soil food web" to really be able to tell what the fuck you are doing when making tea. For example, just because the tea is foaming doesn't automatically make it good.

It would be easy for me to not say anything bad... for example I was afraid the other day that brewing the foliar pack for longer than 24 hours could be killing fungi. I made a thread of it instead of sweeping it under the rug. That is because I want to educate myself and others... whether or not it helps drive sales does not matter. Sales are not really important to me and never have been... I have always done just fine without selling microbes. :)

I honestly just want to give myself and others a good product that works and that comes at a fair price. The microbes are fascinating to me, and I am having a blast learning about this shit from research, and more importantly from you all.

-Cap

 

[Theoneandonly Z]

Fuck ya - sums up all I have to say.

 

[Gifted0ne]

Z,

You can brew the root pack. I advise not to brew for longer than 24 hours, but that can be taken with a grain of salt given opinions are like assholes (everybodys got one!) The original purpose of the thread was to promote using caps bennies with the tea, because when compared to heisenberg tea additives (GW, ZHO, aquashield)... Well, let's just say that in my biased opinion my packs kick the shit out of all of those products (strictly in terms of concentration and species diversity).

Let me be clear: the packs (all three of them) were meant to be used with water only. Using them in a tea is an afterthought. They will work fine with just water. They will also work in tea. The root pack has many bacteria which will multiply rapidly given o2 and a food source. Rapid multiplication of some species can, over time, lead to the diminishing of other species as they are all competing in a tea for food and O2. Bacteria will come out of spore state and multiply much faster than fungi. Yes you can brew a fungal dominant tea or bacteria dominant tea. You also need a microscope and a significant understanding of the "soil food web" to really be able to tell what the fuck you are doing when making tea. For example, just because the tea is foaming doesn't automatically make it good.

It would be easy for me to not say anything bad... for example I was afraid the other day that brewing the foliar pack for longer than 24 hours could be killing fungi. I made a thread of it instead of sweeping it under the rug. That is because I want to educate myself and others... whether or not it helps drive sales does not matter. Sales are not really important to me and never have been... I have always done just fine without selling microbes. :)

I honestly just want to give myself and others a good product that works and that comes at a fair price. The microbes are fascinating to me, and I am having a blast learning about this shit from research, and more importantly from you all.

-Cap

Just based on the ridiculous amount of research ive done I would recommend for DWC just brew the root pack for 30-48 hrs using about 1.5 TSP molasses per gallon and use when most of the molasses is gone.. (im just going by smell) Research states not to have any carbs in the dwc res as the goal is to get the bacteria/fungi to feed off slime/rot/bad bacteria.

And to rid mites, or to preventative protect against mites just mix the Foliar pack into water it doesn't need to be brewed.

As far as nute pack in DWC it's still rather unclear (contradicting info) on whether the myco's are helpful or harmful in dwc. I have however, from experience, found it to be very beneficial in a contained rockwool medium.

*its also worth noting that when you talk about ZHO/Aquashield or Great White you must also mention Ancient Forest in conjunction by name because the tea will only be as good as the compost you are using.

 

[Capulator]

Just based on the ridiculous amount of research ive done I would recommend for DWC just brew the root pack for 30-48 hrs using about 1.5 TSP molasses per gallon and use when most of the molasses is gone.. (im just going by smell) Research states not to have any carbs in the dwc res as the goal is to get the bacteria/fungi to feed off slime/rot/bad bacteria.

And to rid mites, or to preventative protect against mites just mix the Foliar pack into water it doesn't need to be brewed.

As far as nute pack in DWC it's still rather unclear (contradicting info) on whether the myco's are helpful or harmful in dwc. I have however, from experience, found it to be very beneficial in a contained rockwool medium.

*its also worth noting that when you talk about ZHO/Aquashield or Great White you must also mention Ancient Forest in conjunction by name because the tea will only be as good as the compost you are using.

Thank you for this.

As far as compost goes... it's not necesary as the purpose of the packs is to provide select species that are tried and true to perform certain functions. Compost will not have all of the same species, nor will it be consistent. Is it good shit, yes. Is it absolutely necessary when using something like the root pack... nope.