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Tea Recipe

  • Thread starter Thread starter Capulator
  • Start date Start date Jan 10, 2012
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Tea Recipe

Capulator Jan 10, 2012 1,732 Replies 371,634 Views
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oxanaca

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#1,441
im probably looking at less microbial diversity the more time that goes by as well too right?

you say 24 hours or less? whats the minimum?
 
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Capulator

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#1,442
oxanaca said:
im probably looking at less microbial diversity the more time that goes by as well too right?

you say 24 hours or less? whats the minimum?
Click to expand...

Yes. The minimum is just to mix with water and a food source, then apply.
 
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oxanaca

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#1,443
Capulator said:
That's a long time. Most tea people I talk to say best to use at 24 hours or less, but at 72 hours aerated it will still be ok as long as it doesn't smell anaerobic.
Click to expand...

last question and ive got this. what do you mean by "smells anerobic" what does that smell like.
 
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Capulator

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#1,444
oxanaca said:
last question and ive got this. what do you mean by "smells anerobic" what does that smell like.
Click to expand...

Smells like shit. You will know.
 
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oxanaca

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#1,445
also whats ideal temperature to brew at?
 
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Capulator

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#1,446
room temp.
 
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CelticEBE

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#1,447
oxanaca said:
also whats ideal temperature to brew at?
Click to expand...
Back when I brewed in a bucket I used a fish tank heater to keep my brew at 75.
 
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Lowman

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#1,448
I assume that this powder is the same as using alfalfa meal. http://www.nowfoods.com/Alfalfa-Powder-1lb.htm

The label says pure. No additives. Anyone object to adding this to tea?
 
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Dunge

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#1,449
Lowman said:
I assume that this powder is the same as using alfalfa meal. http://www.nowfoods.com/Alfalfa-Powder-1lb.htm

The label says pure. No additives. Anyone object to adding this to tea?
Click to expand...
This is a food grade product, so will cost 10X more than a feed grade.
And, I don't believe powder is any better than ground or chipped.
 
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Lowman

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#1,450
Dunge said:
This is a food grade product, so will cost 10X more than a feed grade.
And, I don't believe powder is any better than ground or chipped.
Click to expand...
Dunge said:
This is a food grade product, so will cost 10X more than a feed grade.
And, I don't believe powder is any better than ground or chipped.
Click to expand...
Thats all cool...but I assume there is no harm in using it in a tea untill I have used it up and get some alfalfa meal next time.
 
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Dunge

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#1,451
Lowman said:
Thats all cool...but I assume there is no harm in using it in a tea untill I have used it up and get some alfalfa meal next time.
Click to expand...
No problem at all.
I brew tea batches 'back to back' on a four day watering cycle.
I'm always looking for better sources of alfalfa, and I use feed grade molasses as well. (bought at a sporting goods store in a gallon jug as bear bait)
Inoculation with one of the Capulators bennies is a fun distraction.
Have fun. Your plants will love you for it.
 
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OGkushistein

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#1,452
@Capulator How far along into flower is it ok to drench the soil without negative affects
 
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beachtown77

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#1,453
So I've read your recipe for this tea and it looks fantastic. I grow in Coco with Canna nutrients. How would you recommend to use this tea? Should I use it every other week in flowering without the earthworms castings. I have used tea in the past but nothing that sounds this good. Please help!

Thanks Capulator
 
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Capulator

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#1,454
OGkushistein said:
@Capulator How far along into flower is it ok to drench the soil without negative affects
Click to expand...

All the way to the end. No problem.

beachtown77 said:
So I've read your recipe for this tea and it looks fantastic. I grow in Coco with Canna nutrients. How would you recommend to use this tea? Should I use it every other week in flowering without the earthworms castings. I have used tea in the past but nothing that sounds this good. Please help!

Thanks Capulator
Click to expand...

I use the tea every week on all my plants. Right now I do approx. 1 part tea to 8 parts nutrient solution in a DTW system and 2 cups/5 gallons in a recirc system. I use exactly this:

1 tablespoon per gallon root and foliar packs.
20mL/gallon wholesome sweeteners or grandmas molasses.
1/4 -1/2 cup per gallon EWC from local farmers market.

I have also been amending with EWC, alfalfa meal, and pyrophyllic clay.

Sometimes I add 20mL/gal Alg-A-Mic
 
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SierraFarmer

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#1,455
Hey cap had a quick question about my tea recipe. I am making a 4 gallon batch and I am using 100ml of molasses, 1 cup of earthworm casting, yucca extract, 1 tbs of root pouch, and 1 tbs of foliar pouch. Then I bubble it for 24 hours. My main question is, is that enough of the root and foliar packs. I see ppl are using up to 4 tbs of each and I want to make sure I am not overloading the bennies with too much molasses and making them into sugar junkies. Thx again for hearing me out
 
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Capulator

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#1,456
SierraFarmer said:
Hey cap had a quick question about my tea recipe. I am making a 4 gallon batch and I am using 100ml of molasses, 1 cup of earthworm casting, yucca extract, 1 tbs of root pouch, and 1 tbs of foliar pouch. Then I bubble it for 24 hours. My main question is, is that enough of the root and foliar packs. I see ppl are using up to 4 tbs of each and I want to make sure I am not overloading the bennies with too much molasses and making them into sugar junkies. Thx again for hearing me out
Click to expand...

3 more tablespoons each and drop the molasses by 20mL.

You can use less if you like. You may also dilute the tea anywhere from 1:10 to 1:100. You can even use full concentrate. PM me if you have questions. I know a lot of this info is hard to find in the threads. Think I will make an FAQ.
 
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FPines

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#1,457
Looks like you're out of stock on the Root Pack, I knew I should have ordered a larger size last time... any idea how much longer until it's restocked?

Cheers.
 
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cheaplastic

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#1,458
Capulator said:
3 more tablespoons each and drop the molasses by 20mL.

You can use less if you like. You may also dilute the tea anywhere from 1:10 to 1:100. You can even use full concentrate. PM me if you have questions. I know a lot of this info is hard to find in the threads. Think I will make an FAQ.
Click to expand...


Cap, i notice on your website under the tea brewing instructions, it says, "OGBIOWAR likes a short 2-4 hour brew" I have a print out of an older recipe you posted that looks identical to the current one, but mine says "OGBIOWAR likes a 24 hr brew"?
 
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Capulator

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#1,459
cheaplastic said:
Cap, i notice on your website under the tea brewing instructions, it says, "OGBIOWAR likes a short 2-4 hour brew" I have a print out of an older recipe you posted that looks identical to the current one, but mine says "OGBIOWAR likes a 24 hr brew"?
Click to expand...

2-4 is for max diversity from the packs... 24 will do just fine. You can even just mix it and add it to the substrate/spray and get spectacular results. It's hard to miss really. There are so many spores per gram.

I dont recommend going past 24 hours though unless you are an experience tea brewer.
 
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We Solidarity

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#1,460
Capulator said:
2-4 is for max diversity from the packs... 24 will do just fine. You can even just mix it and add it to the substrate/spray and get spectacular results. It's hard to miss really. There are so many spores per gram.

I dont recommend going past 24 hours though unless you are an experience tea brewer.
Click to expand...

yes...I will say this...I've been setting aside the amendments in my tea bags (castings and humisoil) to mix into my mom dirt, whenever I brew for longer than 24 hours the tea bags will start to get extremely anaerobic and smell horrible overnight. 12-24 hours and I'll usually have two or three kinds of fungi starting to pop up after letting it sit out overnight and it smells like rich earth.
 
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Thread info

Replies 1,732
Views 371,634
Started Jan 10, 2012
Latest post Mar 18, 2020
Starter Capulator
Forum Nutrients and Fertilizers

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