For the enzymes, I was meaning (if you use) something like hygrozyme or (from what I understand) more preferably Slf100. As far as switching nutes "mid grow"; if your still in vegetative state then it's not too scary to switch nutes. I wouldn't recommend switching nutes in mid flower unless there's some confidence in the change.
@NaturalTherapy Looking good!!! I'd probably try pheno 2 first. ;)
@SeaF0ur Cool thanks for the quick tips there!! I would like something a bit larger than the root riot and that idea of taking a corner to fill the hole; is a keeper there.
@MrBelvedere Thanks for the tips with the rockwool! I wasn't sure if I needed to do some advanced pre-treatment or the like. Thanks also for reminding about squeezing, doubt I would've but least now I know i won't, heh.
As far as dome / no dome isn't going to be the test really though. This experiment will be to see if the jeln plugs or rockwool work well in my "bubbler" method; instead of the peat/ coir I've used over the years.
I guess I always say it's a bubbler but it's not in the truest sense. Basically, my bubbler setup has (currently) 2" net pots with peat / coir suspended above a water volume with aeration. The water level is low enough that there is NO direct interaction with water and net pots (water level nor bubbles). The only function of the water itself is, so when roots are formed out of the net pots; they have somewhere to "head" and get nutes. I keep the water around 0.5-0.6 EC with an npk of 50-15-30 (appx).
The MAIN reason to have the setup like this, is that the whole unit is sealed except for the net pots. I have appx. 0.4 Liters per minute (on average) of air that goes through each pot. The idea is to prevent stagnation in medium, maintain moisture, provide humidity to leaf surfaces and maintain oxygen in the water. Outside of this, it would probably be closest to a standard "tray" cutting method.
@shemshemet There are only a few MFG's of the 315's atm. I believe the higher pricing on this size is related to the "niche" ballast requirement. I believe that all the MFG's use the philips mastercolor bulb.
@Lazerus00 & @gardnguyahoy both Seaf0our and FlyinJstable talked about the CMH's a while back. They are both using "conversion" CMH bulbs instead of the "315". The conversion seems like a good way to do CMH for cheap if you have the ballasts already. There is no "common' ballast that will run the 315w size. I'll reply to those posts for anyone who may want.
On this point @SeaF0ur This bulb was intended as a conversion and I'm not so sure that it will be drawing much "extra" wattage. A 1000w MH runs 263v @ 4.1A. The 860 there runs at 248V @ 4.24A. I would imagine the transformer should have no issues supplying 4.24A and would also expect that the output voltage would be "pulled down" close to the 248 as a result. I bet if you check the wattage draw, that it will not be too far outside of the 860 range.
Here's a .PDF from philips for that bulb. It is also a straight-up conversion....but for HPS.
If you look in the .PDF (page 2 ordering info); you can see the required ballasts for that bulb. S51 or M168.
Here's a page with the ANSI codes for ballasts: http://www.kolmart.com/HID-ANSI-Code-Guide_b_3.html
If you look at the 400w HPS ballast, it is an ANSI S51.
Thanks for the shout out ☺. Mines on the way count down ☺ . Peace and good vibes.@CBDEMON
@Lazerus00
@420 lyfePpP
@gardnguyahoy
@MGRox
@Tnelz
Thanks everyone! This round came out pretty well, but could be better. I fed a little too much nitrogen so they didn't perform as well as they could have. One of these days I'll be satisfied with my own crop.
I use Algoflash nutes or my Peru sea bird guanos, 8 yrs old for flower...Super...the nitrogen breaks down,then u have p/k left... When done outside amps the plant like no other. High NPK rating... I brew mine with Mr. Coffee maker and make a potent hot water brew...let stand in glass vessel and wait... Saw in an old HT mag...super potent... Swells flowers really well... Then apply micro and macro...@gardnguyahoy well I suppose a NFT style system would possibly allow the least total water. Though since it's kinda about stability one of the "easiest" ways to get stability in any of these systems; is with more volume. So, the smaller you go; the faster things can get out of whack. Other than the flood / drain I did; I've not messed much with active hydro systems (cuts I suppose); so I'm no expert.
If you do a dtw coco setup as Tnelz or SpitX suggested; you can get around the reservoir issue, while still getting much of the benefit as you would from an active hydro setup.
I agree with getting a pump setup for watering (if dtw). I hand watered all of mine for 9 years and was glad to get a pump. I still rotate the whole floor weekly, so that gives me something to whine about; lol.
@SpitXFire my only complaint after using a few bottles of Flora Nova bloom; was those darn tiny chunk's always getting stuck in my syringe's. The nova grow didn't have that issue really.
We @ 320... 100 more to go...ill put something in...what???
cw...
Julius Caesar…All my JC CC seeds are FIRE! No problems with any of my CCup freebies…guess I'm lucky?Man I've seen some real fire from swerves gear, I'd say 3-4 years ago my buddy had a sick pheno of Julius Ceasar. I loved that stuff, and I've seen a lot of dank online from his stuff as well. I guess when you got people like Bodhi, Loompa, JJ, 303, archive etc I'd rather just not risk it. But I definitely wouldn't say swerve doesn't have dank in his gear, because that would be a lie.
I've got my fingers crossed bro. Green goo apparently has found a real skunky keeper . All about that one skunky girlquite interested... I grew the shit, didnt find 2 that looked the same and I cant say I found what I'd consider a keeper, but I do still have some of those beans... hopefully you pull a gem out of there.
Back with the fish store, I often referred to the magnetic / solid state ballasts as "Cap and coil". Gotta love it!So its NOT the 315. Its the standard 400w cmh conversion bulb for 400w hps (aka. ANSI s51) ballast ?
@MGRox i def agree with ur example though. I wouldn't really make a huge change if I was that far into bloom. But say changing from one complete line to another shouldn't be a problem.I will be interested to see how that Shit turns out as well. I've got some (3 lol) of those too, so I may have to move them back in the line for sprouting.
@Stumpy420 you're still in veg right? You probably would be fine (if changing to a new nute) to just keep the EC the same as what your using currently; then adjust from there.
I suppose too, I totally agree with @Tnelz about NPK being NPK and take advantage of that at times xD. Guess I was speaking more from the perspective that different brands typically have differing NPK's, so be aware there. For example, I probably wouldn't want to switch from Lucas (100-100-200) to Jack's 321 (119-41-171) in week 4-5 of flowering ;). Even though they are both rock solid nutes independently. Of course, none of the brands are likely to do anything dramatically different (as Tnelz also pointed out).
Back with the fish store, I often referred to the magnetic / solid state ballasts as "Cap and coil". Gotta love it!
Yeah for those bulbs pointed out by SeaF0ur and FlyinJ; they both use a std 1000w MH or 400w HPS; respectively. They both have used em' and would have practical info; I will just have useless info hehe. The 315 ballasts haven't been used to any great degree in other industries nor have any real crossover application; as such they are still expensive compared to others. Though they don't have anything "special" about them.
So, from the ballast perspective with all of these HID lamps; you only have a few factors to consider: Start Voltage, Operating voltage and operating current. That's all the ballast "cares" about really (technically the capacitance of the arc tube w/ starting). Before any of these HID's have fired; the arc tube is relatively a poor conductor. The first requirement for any ballast is to produce a voltage high enough to exceed the (conductive and capacitive) threshold to create a spark, so that current may begin to flow. With ALL HID's (mh, hps, cmh, mercury etc) and in the ranges of wattages commonly used (150-1000w); the start voltage is typically somewhere between 2-3,000 Volts.
Once an "arc" has been established; the halides / gasses in the arc tube become charged and increase conductivity of the "gap". Current quickly rises and voltage quickly falls until the tube has stabilized at its' "operational" state. The final current of the arc tube (at a given voltage) is largely resistive and is what determines the "draw". The ballast must be able to supply the pre-determined current and thus Volts (since resistance is "set") to maintain the bulb at full output. (EDIT: Digital ballasts with adjustable outputs; vary voltage and are voltage controlled sources)
The Mfg's of the ballast's then, submit a start voltage and operational voltage / current rating. Bulb Mfg's "usually' will try to design bulbs based around these standards then; unless otherwise unable. So, that's where the ANSI codes come in as an easy way to say "does this bulb work with this ballast".
Suppose on a side note with drying; several years ago, I made a wood box (2'Lx1'Wx3'H) with (6)shelves and a fan with "top to bottom" flow. In the bottom there is a space to put a moist sponge or a desiccant. It's in the main room too, though I use it more to cure now. Maybe it will give you ideas.
Sorry for the bit of rambling there.
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