Yo @Toaster79 I was looking for some advice on an LED build for veg. My goal is to replace my t5 which is currently crapping out on me with some cree's but I'm totally lost on what model and bin (what does that even mean anyway?) and would really appreciate help identifying the exact LEDs I need to make this build and where to source them. Been hearing that the 5000k range is the best for what I'm trying to do but I'd love to hear from somebody whos up to date with the best and most efficient cree tech. Also, would using dimmable drivers be worth the extra money if I wanted to decrease the output of the light instead of say, raising the light a few inches?
Where do I start? Ok, how much power and what area are we talking about? Once defined, well get to choosing the right LEDs ( either single die emmiters or COBs).
Color temperature (CCT) : 5000K for veg should be just about perfect where for flowering 3000K does the best job (no need to suplement any other wavelengths). But in case you decide you want to flower with your veg light, add another driver with about 30% output of your primary driver and put 625 and 660nm leds to supplement the lack of red spectrum.
Dimmable or not?
I'd say there's no need for a dimmable driver. You are raising your lights as the plants are growing anyways. Let's say for example you're growing different strains and one of them has more vigor so grows in the light or really close to it. You dimm the light, so you don't burn that one plant but the other plants will get much less light this way and stall the grow even more. Raising your lights an inch or two wont steal that much. Keep in mind that human perception of light intensity is way different than what plants are seeing. So I'd say fuck those dimmable drivers unless you're a mathematical genius and can calculate the exact numbers ;)
Crees coding and binning:
Looks scientifical and complicated but its not that hard really.
Il give you an example and you'll probably break it down your self :)
XMLBWT-0-1A0-U20-00-0001
XML - series as in XM-L family
B - generation (2 -> XM-L2)
WT - color (WT -> white)
0 - configuration (voltage class)
1A0 - chromaticity group (color tint)
U20 - luminous flux group ( efficiency in lm/w)
00 - Vf bin
0001 - internal code
You'll find all the data about coding and binning
here
Now that your done reading wit tje first pdf, here's the datasheet for
XM-L2
Now take a break and spark one.
Done?
Here's the datashee for
CXB2540
Now that you learned about Cree's coding and binning it's much easier to choose the right part.
Now let's build a light for example. You want 200W? Plain simple. For example Meanwell's most powerful driver with wide voltage range and highest output current is
HLG -185-C1400. Voltage ranges between 72V-142V and output current is 1400mA. Perfect for what we're looking for. Cree's COBs are usually 36V except for CXB3590 which is also available in 72V version. Now we have 200W (100W min) power avaliable and running 1400mA. If we wire two 36V COBs in series and if they're capable to sink 1400mA our driver will be happy and so will be our COBs. But to squize the most out of driver we can take 3x36V to get to 142V at 1400mA. Or we can take for example XM-L2. Nominal voltage of single XM-L2 is 3.3V and it can sink up to 3A (even more but that's another story) so it vwill be perfectly happy at 1400mA. If we wire them in series, how many do we need to be in 72-142V range?
So now that we have the basics, lets get our butts to the drawing board :p
Positive vibes and respect everyone!
If there are any questions I'll be happy to answer them :D
p.s.: I'll explain crees naming of their emmiters if theres any interest, but not today