Today I received some spider mites, any advice?

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Snowblind

Snowblind

Kush Mints x Animal Cookie Bx2 Specialist
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What temps do the mites not like? Low 70's?

I live in N Cal and for some reason I think the lower temps up here help to keep them away....however, we have horrible PM up here to battle. Most people would take PM over the borg I would imagine. Ive always heard if you grow in S Cal, then you are going to have to deal with mites....sounds like mutant mites.....blast them with cold!

Can anyone chime in on a colder environment offering protection against mites......I know its not possible in New Mexico to keep things chilled down in the grow room.

Im sure you guys have seen these tips before floating around the internet. Just some general info to read if you are bored or I you are new to growing and are not familiar with a few treatment options.....Medi, spray carefully if you use Forbid, however, that shit seems like it will eradicate mites. Not worth bringing them into your garden! Predators take too long for the flower cycle it would seem...

"Preferred Methods of Treatment and Control:
- Azatrol
- Neem Oil (Cold Pressed)
- Predators
- Pest Out
- Pyrethrin Bombs or Sprays
- Forbid (or Avid + Hexagon or Floramite!)

Azatrol
Azatrol is OMRI listed and Organic. You can feel safe applying this onto your plants all the way through their lifecycle. It will not affect taste, aroma, or color. It works on bugs such as mites, aphids, root aphids, thrips, fungus gnats, caterpillars, etc. Apply Azatrol as Follows:
In the beginning Spray once and then again 4-5 days later. After control is established continue to spray every other week.Make sure full coverage is achieved when spraying. Both the tops and bottoms of the leaves need to be thoroughly sprayed.If you are spraying plants that are in the fruiting stage and indoors, you need to worry about mold. Outside, mold is less of a problem for plants because the plants dry out quicker. (When spraying indoors it is recommended to use a wetting agent,
such as Coco-Wet. We also recommend turning the lights off for a 3 hour period during your plants day time photoperiod, and turning on all fans to facilitate them drying out.) You can spray up to the first 4 weeks into the fruiting/flowering stage, after which you must take extreme precautions to avoid mold.
Quart size foliar application: In a quart, mix 3 tsp. of Azatrol and a few drops of wetting agent with distilled or RO water. Shake and apply. Wait 5 days and reapply by increasing dose to 4.5 tsp of Azatrol with wetting agent and water. If spraying indoors, we recommend raising the lights or spraying while the lights are off (for at least a 3 hour period.) Outdoors spray either early in the morning or at dusk. For best results use within 24 hours.
Gallon size foliar application: In a gallon, mix 2 oz of Azatrol + a wetting agent with RO water. Shake and apply. Wait 4-5 days and then re-apply with 3 oz per Gallon + a wetting agent with RO water. If spraying indoors we recommend raising the lights or spraying while the lights are off (For at least a 3 hour period.) Outdoors, spray either early in the morning or at dusk.For best results use within 24 hours.

Neem Oil
Neem oil contains steroids (campesterol, beta-sitosterol, stigmasterol) and a plethora of triterpenoids of which Azadirachtin is the most well known and studied. Neem Oil is another all-organic way to deal with Mites and almost any other bug infestation out there. It is best used as a preventative, meaning that you should apply it before the problem begins as opposed to after it is already there. Make sure to purchase “cold-pressed” Neem products such as Einstein Oil. Cold Pressed Neem Oils contain a much higher concentration of the active compunds which repel and retard pests in your garden.) Mix neem oil with
a wetting agent (such as Coco-Wet) to thin out the spray and cause it to adhere to the leaves better. Spray every three days, starting with the lowest concentration listed on the bottle and increasing the concentration every 3 days untill the highest concentration is reached; at which point continue to spray at the highest concentration - every 3 days. Soon you will see a dark leaf sheen or waxy coating develop on the leaves. This is a good thing. Neem will not hurt plants, it will only hurt the bugs.

Predators
Spider Mite Predators not only feed on Spider Mites and their eggs, they also breed twice as fast. Each Spider Mite Predatorsucks the juice out of about 5 Spider Mites a day, or 20 of their eggs. Used as directed, predators should noticeably begin to gain control within 4 weeks and then continue until the Spider Mites are nearly or completely wiped out. Predators disappear when the Spider Mites are gone. SpiderMite Predator Types and Attributes:
Wide Temp Range, Moderate Humidity:
Phytoseiulus persimilis
Temperature Range: 55 - 105+ F. Humidity Range: 55 - 90%
Moderate Temp Range, High Humidity:
Neoseiulus californicus
Temperature Range: 55 - 90 F. Humidity Range: 60 - 90%
Widest Humidity and Temp Range:
Mesoseiulus longipes
Temperature Range: 55 - 105+ F. Humidity Range: 45 - 90%

Mite Destroyers eat all stages of Spider Mites, and find new infestation sites on their own by flying. But, it takes 4-6 weeks to really get these guys going, so use Predator Mites as well for more immediate control and for cleaning up small "trouble spots". Life cycle takes 18 days at 70 F. 100 Spider Mite Destroyers gets a colony started. Other Predators include Lacewings and Pirate Bugs (Pirate Bugs are great at eating up Thrips! too.) Also Note: If using Predators make sure to stop spraying any pesticide before application begins. (Every pesticide has a specific amount of time before it is rendered ineffective. Make sure to wait that amount of time.) (You can also spray water on the leaves for a few applicaitons before applying predators to “wash” off any residual pesticides.)

Pyrethrin Bombs and Sprays
Our least favorite way to deal with Mites. Pyrethrin bombs are good for getting an infested room between crops to help “sterlize the enviornment.” They can cause burning on plants (especially if too much is applied.) Make sure to turn off the lightswhen letting off a bomb. it is a good idea to raise them as well so that the next day when the lights come back on you will lessen the chance of burning occuring. Pyrethrin lasts for 24 hours before it degrades to 1/2 of its original amount. It is derived from crysanthanum flowers and generally has a low toxicity for humans. That being said, we still think you should
spray with a mask and gloves. Also note: Pyrethrins act only as a miticide and NOT an ovicide (they do not kill the eggs.) You should always follow up one spray or “Bombing” with another 3 days after the first to kill newly hatched mites before they mate again. As far as “bombs” go, Doktor Doom is softer on plants and should be used for mid-cycle applications. The Pyrethrum TR “Total Release” Fogger is good for sterilizing the space in between crops.
Don’t Bug Me
Don’t Bug Me® is a fast, effective solution for most common garden pests. Because its active ingredient is Pyrethrum, which is derived from chrysanthemum flowers, it can be applied up to the day of harvest on any fruit or vegetable. Don’t Bug Me® kills aphids, whitefly, and other insects on contact by damaging their nervous systems, and even at lower levels it will keep pests away. Best of all, Don’t Bug Me® breaks down quickly and does not persist in the environment. Application of Don’t Bug Me
Dilute the RTU formula in the Spray Bottle by 50% with Purified Water. Save the remaining 50% of Don’t Bug Me Spray for future use. Used in this way, you will not get any “burning” and you will get 2 bottles worth of RTU Spray.

Forbid (or Avid + Hexagon) (or previously FloraMite)Forbid is a very serious mitacide that should not be treated lightly. If nothing else is working than this will. We prefer the organic methods listed above in an overall integrated pest management program. But, sometimes you have to call in the “BIG GUNS.” We will not discuss Avid + Hexagon (Avid is the mitacide - Hexagon is the Ovacide - together they kill all.) Forbid is the new killer on the block (1/8th - 1/4tsp./Gal). Forbid is our preference (newer and better killer), if a spray of this calibur is needed. It is both a mitacide as well as a ovacide. (It will kill both the mites and their eggs.) Forbid is such a specific killer that it will not kill any other bugs. . .In fact it will not even kill Predator Mites. Furthermore it will go through the leaves from the top of the leaves to the bottom. Forbid has a 20 day residual lasting power. Only spray Forbid in the
Vegetative phase
. When spraying make sure to follow these rules:
1. Use a pesticide Respirator.
2. Wear fluid proof gloves.
3. Wear long sleaves and pants and take off and wash as soon as application is finished.
4. Wear eye protection.
Application of Forbid:
Into a 1 Gallon container mix 1/8 to 1/4 tsp of Forbid. Shake until homogenous. Next add enough drops of Indicate solution (the pink stuff) to make the solution turn pink throughout. Pour solution into sprayer.

Other Methods of Control
Populations can also be reduced by spraying the underside of the leaves with a jet of water to break up the webs
and wash the mites off. Soap sprays are also very effective at controlling spider mites. Lower temperatures will
help.
The ideal temperature for Spider Mites is 80 deg. F. It is also very important to keep the growing area
clear of dead plant material. Dead leaves should be removed from growing areas as soon as possible, as they
often contain mite colonies and clusters of eggs. Leaves showing large amounts of mite damage should also be
removed as there are often large populations in these areas."
 
motherlode

motherlode

@Rolln_J
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nuke them now - after mites are seemingly gone take some fresh cuts and start from there - when they root toss the donor plants just in case the borg is hiding in your medium - if its just the strain you want and dont need to go right into production with these cuts thats your best bet

for what its worth I was gifted some banana cuts a few month back that had mites - made a quarantine in my shop with flouro shop lights and treated them every 3 days with sns217 (organic product) took cuts and tossed the moms - now i have beautiful healthy mite free moms

watch them like a hawk
 
GanjaAL

GanjaAL

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Judo... great stuff if you can find it. Dipped everyone of my clones in it and I only had one bugger left but a bunch of eggs on one leaf. Cut the leaf and everything seems to be good to go. Preditory bugs going in the room tomorrow... lady bugs to finish the job. Also this stuff is soft when it comes to benificials.
 
sky high

sky high

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I don't see that same seller on right now....

Any/all are big guns and should do the trick. Grab 1 oz bottle of 1 or 2 of them and go with it.

s h
 
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MediMary

997
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looking at the people who sell, apparently they can't ship to cali.. its pretty funny actually their webpage disclamer:)
so what do you cats in cali do.... how do you get these products?
 
K

kushedout

30
0
floramite is the key, next dont bring clones home, or go in ur garden afta visiting someone elses. for flower pyola is were you wanna go
 
P

primeform

688
28
Isolate them in an area with some hot shots no pest strips for about a week, that will break the reproductive cycle. After that foliar feed them with a low dose seaweed / humic acid foliar to help the plant repair from the spidermite damage and you should be ok. Or foliar them with some hygrozyme LMAO cause that shit will fix anything

ok i like mr goodcat again. he made my day. altho that is the worse advice you could ever give someone with mites. pest strips hahahahaha
 
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primeform

688
28
first off go get some spinosad. Monterey Garden Insect Spray is pretty common and OMRI certified so it can be found locally at lots of garden and hardware stores.

Next buy floromite and have it delivered. If you need a connection that will send to cali send me a message and i might hook you up.

Forbid is a good alternate acting method because its cheap, but Judo and Pylon are the recommended chemicals to rotate but they are expensive. Not sure how large your grow is but they are worth it in the long run. just make sure not to store in hot temps because it will degrade the effectiveness quicker. also mix a new batch everytime. once you mixed it in water it degrades very quickly.
 
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MediMary

997
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you guys ever use this stuff, I looking at the active ingredient in forbid, and compared it to this stuff..

http://www.backedbybayer.com/bayer/cropscience/backedbybayer.nsf/F19074B49764B610852572F8005A3B13/$FILE/S%20Forbid%204F%2005-04-07.pdf

any thoughts, my crop protection handbook lists spirdiclofen as an acaricide and miticide. and they use it on grapes, citrus, etc..

where as the spiromesifen(forbid) is only for ornamentals? and is listed as an insecticide...


BTW these are unrooted clones, which seems like treating them would be a lot easier.. :)
 
chaosinc

chaosinc

66
18
I have been through everything under the sun (we have terminator mites up here) and it all SUCKS. Me personally, I tried Mighty Wash for the first time last week on some vegers that were actually webbing and it totally destroyed the little bastards. How something can be 99% water and do it I don't know (and really don't care to) but it worked for me and is no where near as toxic as everything else. Save your self some hassle go to your local Shop pick up a quart for $14 dollars and see for yourself.



Mr. Chaos.
 
I

IVIars

181
16
I have the super borg. Ive had a NPS in a sealed 7x9 room and spotted them 2 months into veg when i was doing more LSTing. They were only on 2 of the 11 plants, but i took them all out and sprayed with insecticidal soap. 5 days later, I sprayed them all with Mighty Wash, 3 days later i sprayed with DynaGro Neem oil/Pro Tekt. 3 days after that i sprayed with the same. Tomorrow im spraying with SNS217 and Rasta Bobs Death Mite (3% oil instead of 2% with SNS), thatll be 4 days since the last Neem treatment. I plan on spraying again with either Floramite or Mighty wash 4 days after the SNS treatment. I just started flowering yesterday, so i dont know if ill use floramite. Ive found 2 mites since i started treatment, both were dead. I see eggs though and hope they arent the hibernation ones.

Is it possible to do a dunk?
 
A

amstercal

539
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Again, I'm no bug expert, but I don't think the eggs hibernate, just the sexually mature females...gotta preserve the line! Super crafty bastards. You'd probably be ok if you did the floramite right away but I'm not a big fan of that in flower. Sometimes they keep breeding but they kinda get retarded and don't move much and don't build webs and don't even really attack the leaves as much, mostly just poo and lay eggs, after you've hit them with stuff like neem. Because you're already in flower, you might want to stick with the more organic route. I'm a big fan of azamax and I've been told you can still p-bomb at that point.
And sounds like you have it covered, but just to check, you're spraying everything, especially the undersides of the leaves, right?
 
GanjaAL

GanjaAL

865
63
Since mine are babies I just cut the leaves off and inspected the other ones I have. Right now I am lucky as the plants are small and can afford to check everyday. But when they get bigger and more leaves... man is that going to suck.
 
TrichromeFan

TrichromeFan

1,850
83
I'm hit

Sonafabitch!

Photo on 2011 04 14 at 0027


Bringing in the artillery tomorrow.
:character0110:

-TF
 
Mr.GoodCat

Mr.GoodCat

693
63
ok i like mr goodcat again. he made my day. altho that is the worse advice you could ever give someone with mites. pest strips hahahahaha

Atleast I have used this and am not shooting off the hip. The pest strips have worked for me in the past. I speak from experience not from speculation. They may not work for everyone or in certain regions of the country, but for me, you are the last person who should be ponting fingers about giving "worse advise"
 
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MediMary

997
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any of you cats ever use this stuff?
I looking at the active ingredient in forbid, and compared it to this stuff..



:fixed:
 
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primeform

688
28
Atleast I have used this and am not shooting off the hip. The pest strips have worked for me in the past. I speak from experience not from speculation. They may not work for everyone or in certain regions of the country, but for me, you are the last person who should be ponting fingers about giving "worse advise"

if anyone takes any of your advice i feel bad for them. everything you say is retarded. pest strips LOL. your joking me. you have obviously never had a real mite infestation and you just ruined someones crop if they waste there time trying your method instead of actually solving the problem.

and once again you gave advice on hygrozyme when you know absolutely nothing about it. also gettogro fixed his problem from MY suggestions.

the ONLY thing you have ever done is give bad advice and talk about products you have no clue about.

Im still laughing my ass off about the pest strips. too awsome.
 
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