I believe this is the "secret ingredient" in Boost. I see that it is usually used as a foliar spray but was wondering if anybody was using this in their reservoir. if so, what are you running it at strength wise?

thank you :)


Just bough some... lol I'll let you know how expiremnets go...

Im going try these pgr's
clone's still reasearching dosage /usage


veg (once clones roots esatblished)

ga-3 30 ppm's (MIGHT TRY A GA-3 paste that goes around the lower end of main stalk )

brassinolide .01ppms 1st application then every 3wks thereafter untill flowering starts


bushmaster homemade version(drenching this 1)
promalin wk 2 once @ 2ml/gal
Triacontanol wk 4 25 ppms
bap-6 wk 4 300ppms

found mostly from here but theres tons info out there..

budboy gave you an AWSOME RECIPE FOR Triacontanol USAGE..... IMHO

Maybe whats confussing is that most people foliar feed several times of the canna boost... and I'm going to do it once...

The 25 ppm shot takes care of it 1 time giving you a huge "flower boost" in wk 4..

Now if Triacontanol is the main ingredient in canna boost...
(which does makes sense cause they boast of the pk and hide the Triacontanol cause we would just go buy Triacontanol)
Then the only possible explination IMHO is that there using it in VERY SMALL AMOUNTS,OR LOW PPMS... So the whole bottle would have 5-25 ppms alowing end user to spray2-5ml/liter of a watered down version of the cocentrated 5-25ppms Triacontanol

And again budboy gave you this recipe 4 this as well...

You have to also remeber the P&K THATS IN THE BOOST that CANNA boast about is not what people are getting the GREAT RESULTS IMHO its has to be the Triacontanol or a mix of that and other pgr's CANNA IS NOT DISCLOSING

Organicfreak, just making sure I got this right,

you only use triacontanol in week 4 as foliar?

I dont have the time to make my own, but if this achieves good results, it makes boost pretty afordable.


Yes i plan on using triacontanol and bap-6 as a boost in week 4...

But im using Chlormequat Chloride to stop the strech and to set off flowering(even though I don't have a celing issue) been told you can be @ wk 3 of flowering with wk 5 flower sizes.. If used wk 1-2 of flowering

And then promalin a premixed pgr for growing apple tree's suppose to give you more flower nodes... and then the boost in week 4....

I will also be using a homemade botryis(budrot) recippe sprayed once a week...
typical for flowers of this size to be suseptiable to botryis and if you treat once a wk as a preventive you should be good to go...

AN nirvana has the triacontanol also, and at a much cheaper price than boost. When i get my shit together this will be one of my control tests. Boost vs Nirvana vs Liquid karma. Not sure if the karma has it, but Id guess it does.
AN nirvana has the triacontanol also, and at a much cheaper price than boost. When i get my shit together this will be one of my control tests. Boost vs Nirvana vs Liquid karma. Not sure if the karma has it, but Id guess it does.
so knowing you can buy the secret ingredient at a drastically cheaper price than you are currently paying, why would you still buy their product?


Yeah why woud you pay for somthing you could make for alot less??

The cycocell is store bought,but with this recipe you dillute the fuck out of it and add homemade fulvic 8% SO BASICALLY IS HOMEMADE AND WAY CHEAPER THEN ANYTHING YOU'LL find @ a hydro store..
Here's recipe..
Part B ‘Cycocel 750a (Chlormequat Chloride) @ 582g/L’ to make 3L Concentrate

Add 396ml Cycocel to 2.5L demineralised water
Add 30ml 8% fulvic acid

Top up to 3L final working solution

Use at 3ml/L

Now theres A part,but it has Paclobutrazol in it,ans alot of concern about this product so author recomends doubling up part b to 6ml/gal..
you run with your feed water for 3-5 days...

Now I DONT HAVE A CEILING/HEIGHT RESTRICTION either,so I too was like I don't need this.. BUT several sources state that you can have flowers in wk 3that most have in wk 5..

Think about how much more boost/bloom you will have if your flowers are bigger to start with...

Look @dd's system he boast of 8lb each plant... Wheather you believe or not his pics are intense some of the buds are bigger then my head width wise.. lol this is AMAZING .. wE ALL HAVE SEEN THE LONG THICK NUGS.. But imho most never see the basketball size one's...

I have to believe he is using pgr's to do this,but if not I believe WE CAN ALL ACHEIVE THIS with alittle help from our pgr's..



ALSO not good @ the math to convert this,but I posted this in the diy forum.. If some1 can do the math WE CAN BUY "Chlormequat Chloride" and make our own cycocel...

here my other post:

now a gallon of cycocel is 300-400 $
I've been reasearching and I feel I have all the #'s just not the abilty to do the math to make my own cycocel

Per there msds sheet: 66% Chlormequat Chloride not 99% pure is used,also ther mol weight is 158.1 and the Chlormequat Chloride is 11.8% and inerts are 88.2%(thats h2o right?)
Could you plz tell me how many mg or g is needed of Chlormequat Chloride to make a gallon...

side note: I found Chlormequat Chloride99% pure and on the msds for cycocel they use 66% pure..

So I feel 1st we need to know the difference between 66% and 99% and with the mole weight, and 11.8 % of Chlormequat Chloride should help right?

thanks ALOT


P.s If you look next to the Chlormequat Chloride its says 582 g/l however the dickhead who sells the pure Chlormequat Chloride says thats WAY TO MUCH... he felt that it might be mg/l... He wont do the math for me cause he sells it for reasearch and he says it not reaserch with him doing the math. FUCKIN PRICK... Anyways if that is the correct # 582 g/l I'm thinking its the difference then of 66% and 99% pure
I use alfalfa meal for my triacontanol fix... and purpleberry, just fyi but Liquid Karma doesn't have any. I used to use LK but dropped it in favor of Floralicious Plus and powdered humic acid mixed direct into the soil.
1971, short answer Yes.

Long answer... I've started out slowly with it, so as to see what difference (if any) it might make. First use was foliar spray in veg, using 4 clones in 16 oz cups of my usual mix, the clones were approx. 10-14 days old by this point. Only variable/unknown was the alfalfa, I was very comfortable w/the mix & clone used.

Two received an alfalfa foliar spray, two did not. After 14 days, and 7 sprays, there was a noticeable difference in amount of nodes and leaf size.

The first noticeable difference was leaf size, they were larger and felt thicker on the plants that were foliar sprayed. Looking at them in the veg room, where they were in a row side by side it looked like two different varieties altogether. The non-sprayed plants were nice and green, don't get me wrong, but lacked the glossy, blueish green tint the sprayed plants had.

Then came the difference in total nodes, the most important difference in my opinion. The plants that weren't sprayed were almost as tall but had less growth overall. They had 13 and 11 nodes each and were around 18" and 20" tall. The plants that were sprayed had 18 and 20 nodes, respectively. They were 16" and 18" tall.

Top, new growth at the end of the 14 days was much tighter in node spacing and came in much quicker. One of the sprayed plants had probably 1/4 of it's total nodes in the top 4".

Next step is to add it directly to my soil mix. The upcoming round of plants I have will be my guinea pig run. Some will get the old mix, some the new mix. I only have a couple multiples in veg but I'll be sure to give each one a different mix to see what the alfalfa does or doesn't do.

That would make sense then as my buddy didn't recognize his plants he gave me as clones... apparently the Triacontanol definitely makes a difference.