Trying Organics With Better Organix

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incogneato

incogneato

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it is, it has a 360 degree view of the entire bowl. I have all four mountains in view and so abundant water when it does rain. Now the plan is to catch the water as it runs down, slow it across the land, hold it to percolate through the profile, or onwards to be stored for later use, but first thing I need to do is crowd out these weeds with some good old cardboard mulch and woodchips, and get added organic matter down so we can begin to boost the lands ability to hold water when times are tough.

The force I had to swing a pick in to the ground can not be repeated without sustaining injury. It is as hard as granite and I dont fancy bringing in any more bloody tillage gear, which has clearly played a huge role in the way the land looks today.
The people here having been miss led by big Ag just as the bulk of the farming world have, on the advice of" experts", whose job it is to make sales of massive land crushing machinery, have convinced everyone that the reason plants dont grow is because the soil is too compacted and needs to be ripped apart by some metal forls and hundreds of HP. Not one of them has ever bothered to offer a reason as to why soil compacts in the first place, no chance for us to address the matter in a sustainable way, only spend our money on kit that is at the very root of the problem. And by problem I mean human minds, this is the problem, not tractors, not diggers, not horse shit, not even synthetic salts. It is us that ruin the land because we are by nature looking for short cuts and we cant be bothered to learn whats needed.
Farmers all over the world have stripped the living armor from the land, eg the plants, and so inadvertently, esp here, they have baked the soil in some of earths highest UV levels for many many years. There is no hope if you are less than a 10th of a pin head and full of water and so the soil is what I call dirt, it is brown stuff without living organisms of any value, only opportunistic bacteria are left, waiting on the next tilling machine to chomp up any glomalins that may have recovered since the last hammering.
Sure we see then lots of N being released, and plants in this situation grow fast, but if we want to cook a sausage, do we set fire to our whole house?
As i was once told by a good man, get the top two inches of the soil working, and the rest will follow. This means we put life back on top of the soil today, we cover the ground, we add living root systems, we add resources and we wait. In a short time we will have armies of tiny tillers, we will bring back the worms, enable the shredders and so on, these will dig all day for us, they will mine and scavenge nutrients for our plants, feed them and protect them, most of all never demanding vast amounts of fuel and cost. Why would I want to waste my life digging, when there are creatures put here by a god or other, whose sole purpose is to dig soil in a way that resonates with all the other biology. Yeah i can wreck a field in ten minutes with a tractor, make it look nice to the human minds who have been told by "experts" its the only way to grow plants, but if i want the soil glues and I want organic acids as buffers, a critical part of balance re soil pH, I must have life. I dont want to waste my money on short term sticking plasters like Lime, and I dont want the extra cost of my life because I use it.

The light here is extremely strong, the soil calcareous. We are really only a few degrees north of the equator. We get cooler night temps, but the day temps are really high in mid summer, up to 50 degree C. Cooler night temps, well last night for example 9c with a day temp rise somewhere to 34c right now. Thats a huge swing for any plant or microbe to manage. Son the night temps will rise and then we will have 40 degrees in the day with 30 degrees at night, this is all Celsius, i am European, but to make it easier, right now my temp differences are average 44.6F night to 93.2F day so a swing of about 50 degrees F.
Every part of the world has different challenges of course. Here vDiff is one of the largest. it will be interesting, I can not wait to test my ideas.
The nation here is paying the price for listening to so called wise men who went to school to learn how to sell you shit. Fuck sake even doctors do this too, go to school to be legal drug pushers, see Oxycotin, legal heroin, so I say beware the so called experts. i learned by getting my own head in to the questions i have, not by going to some big ag business funded school whose mission is to sell fucking tractors and lime and not to provide an answer as to why soil compaction happens in the first place.

Anyone that wants to know just ask.

Sorry that was meant to be a nice email saying its great here, but i went all ranty. Time is pressing me, I want it to look better but I know this takes time :)
Found it to be a good read. Thanks for the know brotha!
 
Ecompost

Ecompost

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Found it to be a good read. Thanks for the know brotha!
welcome bro :-)
great vid ~
yeah man, you could do worse than to study Ray, Dave Brandt, Rick Haney, Gabe Brown etc. If you own land or care about it that is.
These guys are your side doing great things. When I talk organics and biology, most people in the trad farming route throw Elaine at me, I mean Elaine is cool, she is like a Janet and John, tied up with a forefather, she was a starter, a pioneer, whose work we have built on, verified, corrected. Next level up is these guys.
Once you get it, we will go for the area specialists, spread what they know about the place, just like I spread woodchips, manure and tea and get things growing, so it is we do this with data together and grow as us
 
Ecompost

Ecompost

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Data quote on soil health thanks to Rick and Solvita

To have robust soil health your soil must first meet certain criteria for microbial activity. You can be a marathoner but your exercise regime, rest schedule and nutrition has to be right to succeed. The same applies to microbial activity. The home of microbes is the soil environment which must be suitable for them to flourish. And the quality of specific components determines the integrity of this house.

Discussions about soil quality were very controversial in the 1990s because academics didn’t feel it was definable. In 2014 I wrote an article on soil quality for Crops and Soil magazine and received a comment from an emeritus professor that “quality isn’t definable”. For me, an agronomist and farmer, it is definable and measurable. I take a very practical view, and the NRCS seems to agree.

The NCRS has been interested in soil quality and in providing training for over 2 decades. I have even been through this training in Nebraska and it taught me how to easily measure and track quality. The NRCS’s Soil Quality Institute published their Soil Quality Test Kit Guide in 2001. In it they define soil quality as “the capacity of a specific kind of soil to function. It is generally assessed by measuring a minimum data set of soil properties to evaluate the soil’s ability to perform basic functions (i.e., maintaining productivity, regulating and partitioning of water and solute flow, filtering and buffering against pollutants, and storing and cycling nutrients).”

The kit and methodology was developed by Dr. John Doran, USDA ARS scientist at University of Nebraska. Cathy Seybold and Lee Norfleet, USDA-NRCS wrote the guide. It describes indicators of soil quality – or the integrity of the home. However, don’t forget to use a spade and dig up a slice of a soil profile and get your hands dirty. Remember seeing, feeling and smelling the soil is part of monitoring quality. A crumbly dark soil with a good earthy smell and worms is what you desire and we don’t have lab measurements to tell you that.

Measuring soil physical qualities can be time-consuming because you have to do the tests yourself. It is also best done in the field in a natural, undisturbed state. Physical quality includes bulk density, porosity, water holding capacity, water infiltration, presence of compaction layers, and aggregate stability. The NRCS’s Soil Quality Test Kit explains how to run these tests. The equipment that is part of the kit is largely re-useable and once assembled the only real expense is the time it takes to do the tests.

Soil quality assessments include a long list and I have made a short list: organic matter, pH, EC, aggregate stability, compaction and water infiltration. This doesn’t yet tell me anything about biology. To measure that, I add in the Solvita field respiration test. The original NRCS Soil Quality kit included a glass-absorption tube called Draeger to measure soil CO2, and John Doran and his team at UNE showed already in 1996 that Solvita was easy and accurate to perform. Check out the Soil Bucket for all these short list of tests. I like the infiltration ring – which also serves for bulk density tests, and I’d throw in a penetrometer, which the NRCS bucket does not include and that helps you get to soil compaction.

Once I understand my soil quality and have taken necessary steps to maintain and improve it, I feel that a routine Solvita field respiration test is all I need to keep monitoring it. If respiration falls off, then I look at other indicators to find the causes. If you are monitoring soil quality, or soil health as we know it today, the traits measured in NRCS’s Kit are ones that determine the dynamic nature of your soil. You won’t know if your soil is in good shape if you don’t measure. So let’s get out and do it.

You can send a question, comment or topic to our guest blogger Dan Davidson CCA at: ddavidson @ woodsend.com. Dan also accepts calls at 402-649-5919.
 
Moto

Moto

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Super Lemon Haze
Better Organix

Pro-Mix Recycled Media

Here is the Rootball of SLH before transplanting into 4 gallon container. The seed was originally dusted with Root Better

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I re amended my media with Bio-Media Pro and dusted Root Better in transplant location.

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SLH is finally starting to get out of it's seedling stage. She has already been hit with Bio-Hydrate and Nano Breathe just like all my plants. :)

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My initial drench application was Bio-Hydrate with K-Amino..

"When in doubt K-Amino Out" LOL heheheh

Moto
 
Srenots

Srenots

14,210
438
Super Lemon Haze
Better Organix

Pro-Mix Recycled Media

Here is the Rootball of SLH before transplanting into 4 gallon container. The seed was originally dusted with Root Better

View attachment 692456
View attachment 692457

I re amended my media with Bio-Media Pro and dusted Root Better in transplant location.

View attachment 692460

SLH is finally starting to get out of it's seedling stage. She has already been hit with Bio-Hydrate and Nano Breathe just like all my plants. :)

View attachment 692458


View attachment 692459

My initial drench application was Bio-Hydrate with K-Amino..

"When in doubt K-Amino Out" LOL heheheh

Moto
whats the SLH?
 
Ecompost

Ecompost

5,134
313
Super Lemon Haze
Better Organix

Pro-Mix Recycled Media

Here is the Rootball of SLH before transplanting into 4 gallon container. The seed was originally dusted with Root Better

View attachment 692456
View attachment 692457

I re amended my media with Bio-Media Pro and dusted Root Better in transplant location.

View attachment 692460

SLH is finally starting to get out of it's seedling stage. She has already been hit with Bio-Hydrate and Nano Breathe just like all my plants. :)

View attachment 692458


View attachment 692459

My initial drench application was Bio-Hydrate with K-Amino..

"When in doubt K-Amino Out" LOL heheheh

Moto
word nice fuzz going on...ecto blaster
 
Ecompost

Ecompost

5,134
313
Spider taking down his victim on Granny Smith Tree. LOL

View attachment 692461

Nice work bro. Some info on growing fruit...
When to fertilize fruit trees
Right before bud break is the perfect time to fertilize your fruit trees. If you miss the moment and the trees have begun to bloom, you can still fertilize until June.

Don’t fertilize in late summer or fall, though, because the new growth put on by the tree can be damaged by frost.

The earliest time to fertilize? One month prior to spring growth.

Measure fruit trees to see if they need fertilizing. Not all fruit trees need fertilizer every year and they don’t need it in the same amounts.
Too much fertilizer means lots of leaves and shoots, and not a lot of fruit.
Luckily, fruit trees are pretty good at telling you what they need.
If the tree was pruned more than it typically is pruned in one year, don’t fertilize.

Begin your assessment of a tree by locating last year’s growth rings. The growth ring is the point on the branch where the tree started growing the previous year. Measure from the growth ring all the way out to the end of the branch. Repeat these measurements at several spots around the tree, and average them as the previous year’s “annual growth” of the tree.

A guide for apples and pears
* Non-bearing apples and pears should grow 18”-30”.
* Bearing pears and bearing non-spur type apples should grow 12”-18”.
* Bearing spur apples should grow 6”-10”.

Back to math class for nutrient application
For those of us who did not excel in math—fear not—we will walk you through the fertilizer calculations. So stop worrying that this is one of those awful Math Word Problems.
Rule of thumb: The amount of fertilizer is based on the age or size of the tree.
Trees need 0.10 of a pound of actual nitrogen per year of age, or per inch of trunk diameter (measured 1 foot above the ground). The maximum you should give a fruit tree in a year is 1 lb. of actual nitrogen.

The NPK numbers on fertilizer show the percentage of nutrients per pound of fertilizer. N, P and K refer to actual nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium.
For example: If the N is 10 then there is 0.10 of a pound of actual nitrogen for every pound of fertilizer. To calculate how much fertilizer to apply: divide the amount of actual nitrogen the tree needs by the percentage of nitrogen in the fertilizer.

In the case of this tree if it was aged 5 years, it would require 1/2Lb of N per year. So using Bio Veg to feed this tree, we would say 0.5 divided by 0.08 = 6.25lbs of bio veg per annum :)
 
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Ecompost

Ecompost

5,134
313
Added
Don’t start fertilizing next to the trunk. Start a foot from the trunk and spread fertilizer evenly all the way out to the drip line.

The drip line is at the perimeter of the tree’s furthest reaching branches.

Digging a series of small holes is another method of applying fertilizer. It is a bit more work, but it ensures the fertilizer is getting to the tree roots. Sometimes known as spiking, this technique is super for big outdoor MJ too

To make the digging job easy you can use an auger attachment with a cordless drill.

Dig the holes six inches down and 12”-18” apart. Start drilling the holes a foot outward from the trunk and continue on to the drip line.

Take the fertilizer you’ve measured out according to the recommended rates and sprinkle a little in each hole until it is used up.

This is great for making sure less water soluble nutrients like phosphorus or beneficial mycorrhizae in the fertilizer make it to the tree roots.

Once you have finished fertilizing, spread an inch of compost over the top and water well.
 
Moto

Moto

3,041
263
Sugar Snap Pea's
Better
Organix

Pro-Mix Recycled Media

Sugar Momma's
are both trucking along like champs. They have survived multiple storms that took down local oak tree's on the homestead.. Caught them laying on the job but re-positioned them and good to go. :D

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They are only getting a diet of Bio-Balance Media and K-Amino being in the legume family. :)

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The wetting is from Nano Breathe with Bio-Hydrate foliar application at night time to prevent any unnecessary spraying on any beneficial insects or bee's. :)

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I don't have a Banana for Size Reference. LOL SORRY :)

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I hope everyone has been doing well on the farm. :)

Moto
 
TrubldBreeze

TrubldBreeze

720
243
Sugar Snap Pea's
Better
Organix

Pro-Mix Recycled Media

Sugar Momma's
are both trucking along like champs. They have survived multiple storms that took down local oak tree's on the homestead.. Caught them laying on the job but re-positioned them and good to go. :D

View attachment 699568


They are only getting a diet of Bio-Balance Media and K-Amino being in the legume family. :)

View attachment 699566


The wetting is from Nano Breathe with Bio-Hydrate foliar application at night time to prevent any unnecessary spraying on any beneficial insects or bee's. :)

View attachment 699567

View attachment 699572

I don't have a Banana for Size Reference. LOL SORRY :)

View attachment 699565

I hope everyone has been doing well on the farm. :)

Moto

Got ya covered lil bro :)
 
Bananameasurements
Moto

Moto

3,041
263
Tongue Of Fire
Better Organix

Pro-Mix Recycled Media

My Long Tongue Girls is still looking fine oh fine besides not throwing much growth yet. She is starting to go vertical but not completely setting any beans yet.

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Hopefully these dirty girls will get on with there business and start producing soon. LOL

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I do personally enjoy there color it's refreshing instead of certain nitrogen heavy plants. :)

MoTo
 
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