U/V light filter in MPB reservoir

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Loudblunts

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The cold water thing slowing growth is a misnomer. I can site the reference if needed. Your good down to somewhere in the 50's if I remember it correctly, however I can dig up the article. I believe it was the maximum yield from last month or the month before.. Too low of PH is also a misnomer untill you go below 4.0.

thank you!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
 
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Loudblunts

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Have you tried it, loudblunts? Did you see the pic of the clone above? Do those look like spaghetti? Have you tested water with h202 and X in it to see if X disappears? No. More theories. I get this every time I ask this question, from someone who has never tried it themselves. Stabilization happens in that first 15 minutes that I'm reffering to. Chemistry 101 is like all science, some theories should be correct but aren't. I gave you my experience. Don't try it yourself if you don't want to. I know it works, don't tell me it doesn't. I run it like that and guess what, you're wrong, it works. try it. try increasing your water temps to around 73-74 with h202, colder water means slower growth. I get so many roots I can't control them, the plants fill every container that I've put them in. peroxide is the shit and it's not $120 A LITER.

All I get is a bunch of theories. No one has tried it? and succeeded? I'm sorry, I must be a special grower. It's obvious you're not interested unless it comes straight from DD. Don't try anything inventive, you might succeed.

dont kid yourself cowboy. i've been growing longer than you've claim to have been medical. You do realize the underestimation of a man is the determination of your downfall ;)

newsflash h2o2 isnt anything new. OBVIOUSLY from my post and threads i DO NOT speak on anything that i haven DONE nor TRIED. I run MANY test, experiments and controlled trials. I also have a botanist and a Scientist who works at water treatment and sewer plants, who, guess what? uses h2o2 ;) so i'd be careful before you start accusing what you know naan about ;) Also, just to get your panties in a bit more of a bunch.... the persons that im referring to, are the Top Heads that run the department in your state..... ;) How's that for your theory ;)

and p.s. yes your roots do look like spaghetti noodles...lol. they reason you are having 'soo many roots that you dont know what to do with them' is cuz you are killing them off so they are trying to spit out new growth ;)

p.s.s. LMAO @ you thinking im in DD fanboy.... you obviously have no clue who you are talking to....

edit: like i said before...this was NEVER an attempt to flame, knock your method or ANYTHING at all Mr Sputnik...if you know me, you would know that is not how i roll, not my style at all. My whole kill about your post was it seem you was forcing/shoving it down our throats and seem to be getting mad when nobody replied to you.... it was a reason we didnt, you seemed hostile towards topic. If you have to force it, how good is it really? its like a used car sales man, buy buy buy buy!!! no need to look.

Again this was no attempt to attack you, however, it is heavily irresponsible, to suggest someone use h2o2 in collaboration with anything remotely organic

goodday friend ;)
 
Mr.Sputnik

Mr.Sputnik

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Unlike yourself loudblunts I'm not trying to be hostile or "get your panties in a bunch" and I really don't care for name dropping, it doesn't give you any more credability ;). I figured I might give my 2 cents on the DO topic and my opinion on the H&G line and the fact I have used organic type additives with peroxide and had it work just dandy ;) . Just because you couldn't get it to work for decades doesn't mean someone else can't do it in a year. You should call those h202 gods and tell them you found a freak of nature. ;) you might want to re-read what I posted, I never claimed to run bennies and h202, bennies are too delicate. So, what does h202 break down and not break down if I'm not running a sterile res with h202? something can live in there? maybe something organic? you proved my point and I think you missed it by a mile. ;)

I think DD has an excellent system, and I think it's good to follow it to the T if you're just getting started. Bennies are great and DD's nutes are great for the system. The RE worked ok for me, it at least did something for the roots. Maybe I got a bad batch.

I figured I would share my unique experience with DWC and DO in the form of h202 but it looks like I picked the wrong place to post. Carry on, sorry for getting so off topic.
 
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jack the reaper

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Unlike yourself loudblunts I'm not trying to be hostile or "get your panties in a bunch" and I really don't care for name dropping, it doesn't give you any more credability ;). I figured I might give my 2 cents on the DO topic and my opinion on the H&G line and the fact I have used organic type additives with peroxide and had it work just dandy ;) . Just because you couldn't get it to work for decades doesn't mean someone else can't do it in a year. You should call those h202 gods and tell them you found a freak of nature. ;) you might want to re-read what I posted, I never claimed to run bennies and h202, bennies are too delicate. So, what does h202 break down and not break down if I'm not running a sterile res with h202? something can live in there? maybe something organic? you proved my point and I think you missed it by a mile. ;)

I think DD has an excellent system, and I think it's good to follow it to the T if you're just getting started. Bennies are great and DD's nutes are great for the system. The RE worked ok for me, it at least did something for the roots. Maybe I got a bad batch.

I figured I would share my unique experience with DWC and DO in the form of h202 but it looks like I picked the wrong place to post. Carry on, sorry for getting so off topic.

not off topic at all, i started this thread to learn what others thought of UV and also find other ways to help ensure a healthy root zone and strong plants .

i used h2o2 this run at the end to mitigate what i thought was pythium taking hold in my system. in the end i think i was able to control it by lowering res temps and adding SM-90(2 ml/gal) and h2o2 (1 ml/gal).

thanks for your input sputnik, and please feel free to post regardless of how your post is received/ responded to. you can never know how many peeps you have helped, and they might not even respond to your post.
 
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kuz

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How much h2o2 for 100 ppm?

From a Lynette Morgan article she claims 100 ppm will kill off pythium and fusarium in 15 minutes. I dont follow the math though. 69 ml per cubic meter is 100 ppm of 100%? My math gives me a way different number, she's right i'm sure. Would that be about 1/2 teaspoon per gallon of the 3% solution?
http://www.growingedge.com/community/archive/read.php3?c=PD&q=707

It seems possible that some good stuff could survive concentrations that kills off the bad. And according to the article it makes a difference how much organic material is in the water. Not sure exactly what we are talking about when speaking of beneficial's, especially what we need in DWC.
 
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euroboy

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We always kept are reservoir at about 68F 20c, covered from light, aerated the res and added some H2o2, never in years did we have a problem with root rot or ugly buglys nibbling on the roots. we would change the res solution weekly, flush the root mass with 6.2 water, clean the res + pump with bleach dilluted water, rinse then re-fill the res.
just like a kitchen, keep a few simple cleanliness principles in place and you should be good, if you are experiencing a problem, take a step back and look for the weakest link, there will be your problem, RH relative humidity tends to cause a lot of problems
hope that helps
 
Mr.Sputnik

Mr.Sputnik

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I'm running 1.5ml of 29% h202 per gallon. It's on the weaker side of the mix. there's a fine line between frying everything in your res and mixing it too weak and doing basically nothing. You can kill everything organic off in your res if you mix it too strong or add your nutes before the h202 has had a chance to stabilize itself (add h202 to water first, wait 15 minutes, then procede to mix ferts and ph adjust last).

Kuz, you are correct that some good stuff can survive concentrations that kill off the bad. that's the fine line. The beneficials that I am refering to are beneficial bacteria and fungus, these can't survive in their "live" form in h202 concentrations that kill off pythium, what lost is refering to as a "dead" res. At the h202 level slightly above what will kill pythium off, additives such as leonardite (liquid humates, diamond nectar), seaweed (the over 70 different micronutrients, minerals, enzymes, and naturally occuring hormones in acophyllum nodosum or norwegian seaweed/sea kelp), silica, and enzymes do not seem to break down at this concentration from my experience. I really have no idea if there are some forms of beneficial bacteria and fungus that are hardy enough to survive mild concentrations of h202, but when my biologist friend returns from Costa Rica this summer we'll do a culture and see what survived and what didn't as well as analyse the water to see what's going on in there. It obviously isn't breaking everything down, so I am interested to see what survives at what concentrations when he gets back. All the biologist requires is an edible and a bottle of flor de cana rum aged no less than 7 years.

As far as UV light is concerned, I believe it can break down enzymes and proteins and fry your bennies to an extent . I don't believe it's necessary at all. Problems start occuring with water temps over 75 from my experience, so keep the water temps down. 66-68 is a better number to shoot for.

The h202 chemically nibbling at the roots stimulates growth while the added oxygen stimulates root growth as well.
 
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mrdizzle

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my theory is you dont need benies in DWC. benies are needed in dirt, hydro you dont need anything to chew up your nutes the roots are bathing in it.

from someone who has used both benies and not, and someone who has lost a crop to root rot, a clean res is a happy res

also DD has a clean res, and isnt lacking, so UV it up bro, just my 2cents
 
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jack the reaper

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my theory is you dont need benies in DWC. benies are needed in dirt, hydro you dont need anything to chew up your nutes the roots are bathing in it.

from someone who has used both benies and not, and someone who has lost a crop to root rot, a clean res is a happy res

also DD has a clean res, and isnt lacking, so UV it up bro, just my 2cents

~diz,
dont know where my head is, or remember what i bumped it on but for some reason i recall reading that multizen contained microbials. just got done reading more about it and no mention was made, huh:bong-hits:

which kinda brings us back full circle, with the remaining question being "will there be an impact nutritionally?"
ive heard some rumors that iron is precipitated, but nobody has data from controlled experiments. it would be interesting to chart the bacteria levels and the individual nutes levels throughout a grow. anybody got a mass spectrometer and a.... what...? microscope? the bacteria are super magnified and counted, right? does anybody know how the bacterial levels are determined/ gauged?

a pythium detector would be cool too w/ remote/alarm pc connectivity...

i do like the look of the Great White, and the doseage was like teaspoons per gallon, people are raveing about it too.

DD goes clean, i like his style. but i think i am over my fears of bennies, i am sure i overdosed my plants this time and will more dilligently adhere to the "sometimes less is best" rule from now on.

now i feel comfortable with or without bennies,
 
Seamaiden

Seamaiden

Living dead girl
23,596
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The cold water thing slowing growth is a misnomer. I can site the reference if needed. Your good down to somewhere in the 50's if I remember it correctly, however I can dig up the article. I believe it was the maximum yield from last month or the month before.. Too low of PH is also a misnomer untill you go below 4.0.
That is absolutely correct, I can assure you based on my own experience that slowing/no growth occurs down in the 50s. 60s they'll grow, but a bit more slowly depending on root zone's temps.

But really it has much more to do with nutrient uptake and utilization than anything else. Same with pH ranges. They'll take very low temps, being snowed on and frozen, they just won't grow.

I like your kretek smoker lady.
 
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kuz

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What is multzen supposed to do? I thought it was enzymes that would sterilize the environment, rid it from fungi and bacteria. But Lost is liking what happens with multi zen and white shark used together so I dont know.

Lost, did you ever run the white shark together with the uv light?
 
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Lost

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I have run beneies when I had rot. It was last summer and I had to turn the UV on because the water was not clear. It kept the rot at bay and I would sprinkle the powder on the roots. The roots came back but any beneies getting swept up in the water were presumed killed by the UV..

My problem was an unclean enviroment and near 100 temps.. CHiller was needed..
 
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bakershredhead

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yo jack what do u mean exactly that dds has a clean res? He uses the multi zen, algen and roots ex. So what is your definition of a clean res?
 
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kuz

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I have run beneies when I had rot. It was last summer and I had to turn the UV on because the water was not clear. It kept the rot at bay and I would sprinkle the powder on the roots. The roots came back but any beneies getting swept up in the water were presumed killed by the UV..

My problem was an unclean enviroment and near 100 temps.. CHiller was needed..

I was thinking the great white could colonize the buckets and not be effected by the uv, under better circumstances.

Nice to have the uv for worst case scenario anyway.
 
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Loudblunts

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there is a misunderstanding of what enzymes do.

they are mainly for breaking down dead root matter....not necessarily ridding of any rot ;)
 
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Lost

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there is a misunderstanding of what enzymes do.

they are mainly for breaking down dead root matter....not necessarily ridding of any rot ;)


Wait, isn't rot dead root matter and bacteria?


No, no your totally right tho, enzymes break down the crap, keeps it clean from bacteria blooms. Makes sence as enzymes are how bacteria interact with its environment so just use what the bacteria use to break shit down and skip the bacteria part.. Right?
 
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Loudblunts

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Wait, isn't rot dead root matter and bacteria?


No, no your totally right tho, enzymes break down the crap, keeps it clean from bacteria blooms. Makes sence as enzymes are how bacteria interact with its environment so just use what the bacteria use to break shit down and skip the bacteria part.. Right?

wait... was that a trick question? lol if not? a serious?

good question and i dont have a definitive answer yet...however

looking up the meaning of 'rot' its synonymous to decomposition.. "the process by which organic matter breaks down" ..."is the process by which tissues of a dead organism break down into simpler forms of matter"

so not that i know, but i dont think that 'rot' is a noun i.e. bacteria and dead root matter...it looks to be moreso a verb and action.

im not tryna be smart ass or anything, but i wanted to look it up, so i wouldnt get to lying to ya :D

far as the second paragraph.... i would say its moreso like.... enzymes break down the dead root matter which in turn feed/assist/ or a catalyst to the bacteria. Since anything living would be organic... roots by nature have a naturally occuring bacteria on the roots... doesnt matter if you feed with beneficial bacteria or not. Its there... just like things are inside us....

so to my understanding that enzymes will always be beneficial... however it works more in unison and better results when you have something to feed those
beneficial bacteria.
 
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Loudblunts

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moreover... we dont get bacterial blooms

those are moreso in fish tanks and such. caused by treatment of antibiotics or treatments in which destroy bacteria colonies. Changing out gravel and (bio)filters all at once can cause this as well.

if we do get blooms, it will be algae blooms and the like. Algae blooms are moreso light leak problems instead of pathogen problems.
 
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Lost

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My point was just that bacteria use enzymes (to break things down and more.) and we try to avoid overblooms of bacteria in a Deep water culture environment, so just use enzymes (why bother with the bacteria if you do not have to.. Your right about symbotic bacteria, but when I say bacteria, I usually imply "bad" bacteria.

I guess my nieve understanding of root rot is that it is an accumlication of anerobic bacteria that feed on living roots.

The Symbotic fungi are another thing, in all there are Mycos, endo's, and tricoderma that need to be considered...
 
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