Under Current 12XXXL on 40" centers

  • Thread starter Texas Kid
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budfriend

budfriend

234
28
Hey Texas Kid

How it going. First, its cool how much you post and help others. U and DD are the coolest for sure.

Just wanted to help u out since you helped out so many. I've seen in your posts you talk about spider mites being on your crops.

Have you used AVID in drop form. That is what most use up in Humbolt. You dip your clones in it before you transplant. But make sure lights are off after and make sure they are under florescents for one day after to be safe. I have burned them before. If you do it right which is not hard you will see no difference. Your good for 8 weeks after that and thats it. Keeps Mites, Thrips, Aphids, and white flys gone. Been using about 4 years now and have never had any bug problems since using this product. I started using for white flys that i kept thinking were gone and then they would show back up again. I also run a sulpher until the second week of flower.

The stuff i get from my local hydro is ghetto in a dropper bottle. If they dont have it in Colorado then pm me back and i will give you a contact.

How you liking that undercurrent. What is the pounds per 1k or watts.

peace.
 
UCMENOW

UCMENOW

1,095
83
Beware Very Toxic

www.engageagro.com/media/pdf/label/avid_label_english.pdf

Growers beware...
think twice before using this extremely mammal toxic endocrine disrupter.

Do the research before you put it on the medicine you grow for patients. The active toxins in this pesticide persist far longer on cannabis then on the crops it was developed for.

BTW....it's not what all the growers in Humboldt use, just the ones that don't know better.

Alternatives that work....

www.generalhydroponics.com/genhydro_US/product_labels/AzaMax.pdf

and



SNS-217ā„¢ Spider Mite Control is made up of 100% pure Rosemary botanical extracts. The botanicals are all food grade GRAS (generally recognized as safe) materials.
SNS-217ā„¢ Spider Mite Control
is exempt from EPA registration under minimum risk pesticides exempted under FIFRA section 25(b).

How It Works
Spider mites destroy plant cells by sucking out their contents and SNS-217ā„¢'s unique formula works by providing a barrier which is harmless to the plant, but fatal to the mites.
The natural salts from fatty acids derived from Rosemary extracts disrupt the insect cell structure and permeability of its membranes. Cell contents then leak from damaged cells and the spider mites quickly die
Some of the components of SNS-217ā„¢ are also absorbed by the plant and then suppress the life cycle of the mites.
SNS-217ā„¢ Spider Mite Control kills the spider mite eggs as well by coating the eggs with a oily shield that disrupts the respiration to the egg; therefore no hatching will occur, they will just dry out.
Our Product has been tested in our lab on delicate new growth, clones, tomatoes, roses and other plants.

Not all natural products work....these are the best two on the market hands down.

Do the research before you spray or dip your plants in anything you've got to buy under the counter.:evilgrin0031:
 
budfriend

budfriend

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Well i gues your right ucmenow. Thanks for the input. It is best not to use it. I guess i did not write everything i ment to write. I was trying to help him cure forever.

But if you cant get rid of the mites and they keep coming back and you are constantly having to spray them with "whatever you think is safe because the label says so" when they get bigger or when they are flowering again and again and then giving that to patients. I think it is better in the long run to put 30 drops in a gallon dip your clones 4 weeks before they go into flower and not spray anything on them when they are in flower and eliminate the problem. Seal the room put hepa filters on intakes. Maybe do this twice. Mites should be gone and you can then take precautions to not let tham back in.

How do you do this. Seal room, hepa filters on intake.

For the record. I only dip new cuttings i got from somone else i am trying out, thinking of making moms out of, in avid to be safe not to infect my stock. You wrap you johnson in a condom with random chicks I hope. Yes it not as good but no things growing on it after and it is safe for when you get a girlfiend or wife when you dont take precautions.

All clones i cut no avid. Only thing i ever spray on my plants are the green stuff from H and G and Excell Lg and stop at flower. I guess i fogot to put to stop using after you cure your bug problem.

As far as using the so called "safe and Natural stuff". I dont believe spraying anything on flowers is safe reguardless of what the label says.. i dont believe labels.

Also back in 05 when i had the white flys for like 4 cycles and they would not go away when i thought they were gone. yes i was using the "Safe and natural stuff" in flower that was not good and it did not work. it only kept it at bay. Plus i was sprying crap on flowers.

Also tex kid. take cuts of your moms and trash. Start over. Take every precaution with new cuttings.

Just trying to help from my experience. Any better ideas welcome.
 
UCMENOW

UCMENOW

1,095
83
Clarify

I dig what you're saying.

IPM (Integrated Pest Management) techniques should always include whatever tool is most effective to treat the problem at hand.

You (budfriend) no doubt are a very thoughtful grower and obviously understand the consequences of using life threatening tools to battle pests.

The focus in IPM is the reduction of toxics and the concerted implementation of more holistic remedies (predatory insects, botanicals, plant nutrition, dialing in environments) to change the conditions promoting pests and disease.

Problem is alot of the newbies that read these threads are not so educated and take advise very literally. My warning is directed at that group more so than the experienced grower.

No offense meant toward you're advise as it's clear that it's intended to help cure the problem, not create one....respect.
 
budfriend

budfriend

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no problem..respect back. I guess we should give tk his thread back. I had read alot of his threads lately and he seemed to be battleing spidermites so just trying to help like he has helped me.
 
T

theblairwitch

1
0
New to the forum, but not new to growing. I was checking out this SNS-217 Spider Mite Control product today and came across this post. I wanted to add that yes rosemary does work with mites, but there is no reason to buy such a costly product. Call me frugal, I have been using locally purchased rosemary oil diluted in a spray bottle for years and it works like a charm without the high price tag. Save yourself the money and DIY your own for pennies per application.

If you are having trouble finding rosemary oil locally you can even purchase online for about $5 an ounce that will last you awhile once you dilute.

Hope that my money saving tip helps!
 
G

Green Escape

83
0
so hows the under current tree run goin tk? cant wait to see some updated pics
 
M

mrdizzle

1,895
48
how did the 40in centers work out for you. also do you have any pics of how you hooked the chiller into the system
 
S

skankymonkey23

40
6
Hey TK,
When you do the refill of your res everyday do you keep adding additives or just the nutes to keep the ppm up?
 
UCMENOW

UCMENOW

1,095
83
may I step in...

I'm not Texas but here's my 2 cents.... :)

You might consider a top off reservoir with a balanced nutrient solution that you connect directly to the float valve.

That's what it recommends in the Q & A section on the Under Current web site...good reading.
 
S

skankymonkey23

40
6
UCMENOW,
my res is also used to refill when i change out my nutrients every week. wouldn't it be a bad idea to refill with a res that already has its nutes?
 
BOSSMAN88188

BOSSMAN88188

894
48
IMO.
And from what I have read. The plant uses 90% water 10% nute's.
So top off with plain R\O water up to 50% or 7 day's which ever comes first then change rez.
 
UCMENOW

UCMENOW

1,095
83
From the horses mouth

Check out what the Q & A from Urban Garden Magazine says...Answered by Daniel Wilson Current Culture H2O

Everest: What EC should the top off res be balanced to?

"When operated properly, top off should be balanced the same as the solution in the system. Traditionally hydro growers have been instructed to top off with half strength or pure water to avoid nutrient toxicity, but because the UC runs best with half strength nutes there is less of a chance of salt build-up.

Ideally the solution in the system should stay balanced even as the plants use the nutrient and water. As a rule of thumb, if the nutrient EC/TDS rises as the solution is depleted you are likely running your levels too high to begin with. Conversely, if your EC/TDS drops it indicates youā€™ve started too low.

Ultimately, as solution levels drop in the system the EC/TDS should stay stable; this is a good indicator that youā€™re dialed in. This EC/TDS stability will translate into improved plant health and greater pH stability to boot."


Everest: What if I experience drift in my nutes?

"Correct it with your top off solutions. For example: a system started at 500ppm but has crept to 625ppm as the solution level has decreased. Thatā€™s a 25% increase, which can be easily offset by a top off res balanced at 25% below the initial 500ppm.

This results in a top off res balanced at 375ppm to compensate. Ideally solution strength should stay constant as the plants consume it. This is a good indicator that minerals and water are being used at equal proportions."

Here's the URL to that article in UG MAG...Everest asks some good questions.

http://urbangardenmagazine.com/2009/12/hydroponics-blueprint-breakdown-the-water-garden/
 
Shady

Shady

Chillin' in the Shade...
Supporter
3,747
113
Good info... That's what I do to top off my ebb 'n flow. Someday I'll try an undercurrent... Will we see a journal from you UCMENOW?

P.S. That UC diagram with the watercooled hoods is so badass!!!!! I want to do that... :big_boss:
 
Texas Kid

Texas Kid

Some guy with a light
4,159
263
I ran H&G art full strength and had killer results.

I top off with straight r/o water, no nutes at all..mine feeds off of 200gallon r/o holding tanks right into the UC system, no nutes, i nute the sytem as needed and ride the ph like a vulture

Moab, Bud Blood, Shooting powder, etc.. are all the same and no matter which one you use a little goes a super long ways. I have ran them all then some..

Tex
 
S

skankymonkey23

40
6
tex,
When are we gonna see some updated pics on this run? how do you like the 40" spacing on this go?
 

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