Using a water meter for cannabis

[MIGrampaUSA]

Here I am collecting egg shells from the last few months…

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Never tried terp tea. I don’t like root organic because I bought some calmag from them when I first started growing and realized it wasn’t organic. And now I just associate them with me being ignorant and doing what the hydro stores tell me to do.

My only real issue is if I have to brew it for 24hr’s. I might as well make Aerated compost tea which is really cheap to make.

I’ve been using cultured biologix instant teas which don’t require aeration. Just a tea though, not a fertilizer. I keep telling myself I’ll bust out the airlift brewer but I don’t think I used it at all this grow.

I use calimagic as needed regardless of whether I'm running synthetics or organics. It's better to give it what it needs than to fuss over the source of the mg and ca. In my mind, using something like that doesn't change that its grown "organically." Your grow is still going to be far more organic than most because like @RootsRuler stated, much of the "organic" term has become a sales pitch and a marketing tool.

Roots Organic Terp Teas do not need to be brewed as a tea. They can be, but its only 1 method. Also if you brew it 24 hrs, its going to be pretty strong! 12hr-18hrs is plenty long enough. They also work well as a soil amendment or as a top dressing. You're not locked into one method. You can use what works best for you.

I'm not trying to change anyone's grow methods. Just saying "Terp Teas" are used in other ways besides as a "tea."

 

[Mothman]

This is the big myth that a lot of growers perpetuate.

You're point is taken in regards to issues like that but I do believe that organic farming has its place with those that like their ions derived naturally rather than synthetically. Does it change the cellular exchanges happening versus synthetic? Not really but if that method of grow works for you then by all means go organic.

I get requests for nutrient ratios all the time. My response is I'm not really qualified to give out that info and I'm still learning myself but the one thing I do know for a fact is that, at the end of the day, it's not so much about how much as it is about the balance between all the nutrient ions if we're talking about growing in soil. This is where Mulders Chart comes into play. What a lot of newbs to nutrient ratio compositions need to understand is the delicate balance that all these ions need to strike so that they can be available for the plant to take up without depriving a particular ion.

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A more advanced concept in regards to nutrient take up that goes along with the soil ion dance is light spectrum and intensity but that's a whole other discussion.

I’ve been looking for this chart. It’s confusing, but obv there’s far fewer stimulation pairs than there are antagonism pairs. So, I’ll choose the manganese, potassium, iron links. Is it saying that high manganese will stimulate high demand for K, which in turn stimulates high demand for iron? Is that how the chart reads?

 

[Mothman]

Oh no, I agree with you. There are reasons why some like to grow organically and if they can pull it off then more power to them. My point is if your argument is that organic nutrients will give you "better" weed, at a molecular level, that just isn't true.

I read a lot of questions and answers, and give 'em, on this site. Almost every one of them should start with "It depends.......". So many factors that go into a decision.

LOL, I used to work in HR and was supported by a lotta lawyers. People in both fields frequently joke about how often we answer with, “It depends…”

 

[Oldchucky]

I looked at that charge for about two minutes and got a terrific headache! I think I’ll just stick to putting them in the ground and watering them!

 

[PahPahCee]

I use calimagic as needed regardless of whether I'm running synthetics or organics. It's better to give it what it needs than to fuss over the source of the mg and ca. In my mind, using something like that doesn't change that its grown "organically." Your grow is still going to be far more organic than most because like @RootsRuler stated, much of the "organic" term has become a sales pitch and a marketing tool.

Roots Organic Terp Teas do not need to be brewed as a tea. They can be, but its only 1 method. Also if you brew it 24 hrs, its going to be pretty strong! 12hr-18hrs is plenty long enough. They also work well as a soil amendment or as a top dressing. You're not locked into one method. You can use what works best for you.

I'm not trying to change anyone's grow methods. Just saying "Terp Teas" are used in other ways besides as a "tea."

I like to try a bunch of things but lately my game has been trying to lower the cost of everything. I’m starting to lean more into composting and KnF practices. I’m digging DR earth dry amendments as well since they’re really cheap and contain some beneficials.

I am fortunate that my water is loaded with calcium. It’s essentially liquid dolomite lime so I never touch calmag unless if I only use RO. I’m currently top dressing a bunch of langbeinite in an attempt to work with my tap water.

I totally agree about the term organics. It’s a bastardized term that is regulated by OMRI. A lot of companies make great products and can’t afford the certification.

 

[Week4Bytch]

The moisture meters sure do take a lot of the guesswork out of the equation. I usually have a heavy hand when watering so unless the meter says dry I just lightly spray the topsoil.

 

[Week4Bytch]

I feel like the terpene profiles are much broader when growing in organic soil. And the ease of "just adding water" is a romance I'll never get over. My brother n law buys $50 synthetic bottles (because he can) for his small grows and man, I get really jelly with the huge buds he gets when harvesting. Mine are usually half the size of what he's putting out. And when my friends get a hold of his weed (when I'm out, I share his) they're quick to ask when will mine be available. I feel a lot better about my grows when that happens. And it happens often. There's organic where your self sustaining everything (your own soil, your own compost, etc) and there's off the shelf organics (proprietary dry amendments like Gaia Green, etc). And yup these two camps throw spears at each other too.

If you like tinkering with bottles and measuring EC values creating that special formula, then synthetic nutrition is for you. And the suggested values on them bottles are NOT always what's best for you, those are optimum use situations and that's not everyone, lot of these posts here do not have the best growing environment or lighting setups to begin with,,, and they're hammering their plants with suggested ratios wondering why they're getting nute burn.

With organics your just adding water most of the time with no need for runoff. Can things go wonky here too? They sure can. Like anything, keeping it simple is best. For my hectic lifestyle (also known as laziness) this organic approach is a god send.

 

[MICHGANDER9]

I feel like the terpene profiles are much broader when growing in organic soil. And the ease of "just adding water" is a romance I'll never get over. My brother n law buys $50 synthetic bottles (because he can) for his small grows and man, I get really jelly with the huge buds he gets when harvesting. Mine are usually half the size of what he's putting out. And when my friends get a hold of his weed (when I'm out, I share his) they're quick to ask when will mine be available. I feel a lot better about my grows when that happens. And it happens often. There's organic where your self sustaining everything (your own soil, your own compost, etc) and there's off the shelf organics (proprietary dry amendments like Gaia Green, etc). And yup these two camps throw spears at each other too.

If you like tinkering with bottles and measuring EC values creating that special formula, then synthetic nutrition is for you. And the suggested values on them bottles are NOT always what's best for you, those are optimum use situations and that's not everyone, lot of these posts here do not have the best growing environment or lighting setups to begin with,,, and they're hammering their plants with suggested ratios wondering why they're getting nute burn.

With organics your just adding water most of the time with no need for runoff. Can things go wonky here too? They sure can. Like anything, keeping it simple is best. For my hectic lifestyle (also known as laziness) this organic approach is a god send.

Idk I do pretty good in a living soil organic water only mix nothing but what's in the picture for food and also you feed the soil in organic not the plants the plants just tell the microbiology what it wants and the microbes do the work I tried that synthetic way to expensive and NOT sustainable pH in soil and water is the biggest thing next to a soil test easy pease!!

 

[Week4Bytch]

Idk I do pretty good in a living soil organic water only mix nothing but what's in the picture for food and also you feed the soil in organic not the plants the plants just tell the microbiology what it wants and the microbes do the work I tried that synthetic way to expensive and NOT sustainable pH in soil and water is the biggest thing next to a soil test easy pease!!

Yes sir, I agree, synthetic feed is directly to the plants, a quick shot in the arm feed. Organics is feeding the soil. With a healthy soil (bacteria and fungi) the soil feeds the plant for you. Slow release. Easy to over feed with synthetics, not so easy to over feed with organics.

 

[MICHGANDER9]

Yes sir, I agree, synthetic feed is directly to the plants, a quick shot in the arm feed. Organics is feeding the soil. With a healthy soil (bacteria and fungi) the soil feeds the plant for you. Slow release. Easy to over feed with synthetics, not so easy to over feed with organics.

Very true. Soil pH is a BIGGIE as well certain microbes like certain soil pH and if it's high pH you'll lack the fungi and the more complex microbes if soil pH is to low then you'll lack the bacteria that the fungi and protazas and such need to eat which you need a balance for the right environment that's why we're seeing more bad bugs everybody use pesticides and sufficants I do it beneficial insects and silicate HEALTHY plants less pressure from disease and bad bugs

 

[Week4Bytch]

Very true. Soil pH is a BIGGIE as well certain microbes like certain soil pH and if it's high pH you'll lack the fungi and the more complex microbes if soil pH is to low then you'll lack the bacteria that the fungi and protazas and such need to eat which you need a balance for the right environment that's why we're seeing more bad bugs everybody use pesticides and sufficants I do it beneficial insects and silicate HEALTHY plants less pressure from disease and bad bugs

The bacteria adjust the pH for you millimeters from the rootzone so those readings really don't tell the story what's happening there.

 

[MICHGANDER9]

I hate to disagree But I do

 

[Pilted]

I use a meter.like that at times, mine is a little longer then yours so it goes to bottom of my 3 gallon pot. Anyways a couple tips on how to use it, test multiple places in the pot, just because one is dry does not mean the whole pot is dry. I usually water when everywhere I test is 1 bar in the red or less. It's still better and easier to just feel if pot is light in weight sometimes I LST my plants where I can not pick them up without having to adjust a bunch of things. When I can't pick up pot it works well, just remember test multiple areas you don't wanna test one hit a dry spot then water when the rest of the pot is still wet.

 

[MICHGANDER9]

It needs to stay a stable pH within.02 to keep a balance so what if the root exudates need something that only a fungi or protoazo Can supply and if your pH is above 7.0 it's highly unlikely that there are many fungi or protazo there to give them what they need those more complex microbes are hard to multiply and thrive not just live

 

[MICHGANDER9]

Water stability is important to not dry out or to wet dry kills microbes and wet brings pythium (root rot) and boltrytis (bud rot) boltryitus starts In the soil first and pops open in spores then floats around

 

[Week4Bytch]

I hate to disagree But I do

That's where I got my info from...have the same book dude

 

[Week4Bytch]

Water stability is important to not dry out or to wet dry kills microbes and wet brings pythium (root rot) and boltrytis (bud rot) boltryitus starts In the soil first and pops open in spores then floats around

My general practice is to keep the top moist wet with a sprayer. When my moisture meter reads near dry is when I do a 5-10% watering. Been working out so far.

 

[Week4Bytch]

It needs to stay a stable pH within.02 to keep a balance so what if the root exudates need something that only a fungi or protoazo Can supply and if your pH is above 7.0 it's highly unlikely that there are many fungi or protazo there to give them what they need those more complex microbes are hard to multiply and thrive not just live

Yeah, in our small pots it's hard to recreate the mass land of the wild, I agree with you there. Hard to duplicate that biodiversity in our small grow area. I do test the soils pH but it's super rare when I have too.

 

[Week4Bytch]

@MICHGANDER9 Here's the author of that book (Jeff Lowenfels) interviewed by Mr Grow It , He might mention what I was saying up top.

 

[PahPahCee]

God I hate using meters, they’re such a buzz kill in the garden. I just add as much beneficial bacteria and fungi as I can and water with tap. Keeping it simple.