Uzi (oozy) Cookies F1 By Thegrowingrack

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JWM2

JWM2

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Lookin goodJWM2..The girls are killing it..biobizz works great..

That pot plant is pretty nifty.im pretty anal bout not disturbing the roots as much as possible..but thats jusy me...

Same here. Granted repotting isn’t a huge deal but it feels barbaric. After using the first prototype almost a year ago when it came time to expand the pot it felt right. Like I’ve been doing it wrong the whole time and finally did it the right way. Plus not having the hassle of a mess is very nice and it takes seconds to do it so I think the commercial grow op possibilities are fantastic. Couple that with being able to use any growing medium you want without having to rebuy your plant containers is a nice bonus imo.
 
SmithsJunk

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View attachment 855343

New section on the left. Existing container on the right.

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Closeup of new section.

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Another pic of both sections. The old pot is taken off the base and the new section is put on the base for filling. This eliminates messes on my floor.

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New section being filled with soil. You can see the drainage holes that also allow the roots to grow through from one section to the next.

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Getting there. I use this trowel to fill my pots. Handy.

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New section filled. Now time to add the existing section on top of it.

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Viola. Transplanting done. Pot has been expanded to allow the continued growth of the roots without disturbing the root ball. Life goes on as if nothing happened. No mess to clean up and it took about 30 seconds to do from beginning to end.

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Plant now in its home (to flower) in my home grow rack.

There ya have it, The Growing Pot.

That's a cool pot dude. First modular up-pot expansion I've ever seen. You could really have something there. I can see this product being marketable as long as it produces the same results as a pot that allows the rootball to expand outwards.
 
SmithsJunk

SmithsJunk

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If anyone hasn’t yet voted yet for January’s POTM you should head over and do so. Not saying you should vote for me, then again I’m not saying you shouldn’t either ;-)

Nah, you got that one brother. Leew421 was a close second.

Thanks for the reminder.
 
JWM2

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Day 21 from seed package. Just transplanted them from the solo cups to regular pots.

I had transplanted them on day 19 into some roots organic soil as the hydroshop was out of BioBizz Light Mix. After I did some research I figured that soil blend was too hot. It also contains a fair amount of coco and I really want to stay away from coco for a few rounds to see the difference in battling deficiencies. It’s my theory the coco was leaching some of the micro nutrients from the feedings and possibly building up a salt residue. So I’m running this batch without it to gauge the difference. It’s my theory you either want little coco (less than 20%), no coco or all coco. By using too much of it with soil you risk running into issues where your plants aren’t happy because the coco wants to be fed on a constant basis yet the soil can’t handle that amount of moisture level without developing mold or letting the bad bacteria take hold and mess with the ecosystem in the soil mix.

I’ve got no hard evidence of this yet but it’s my current theory after what I’ve witnessed from many coco blend grows. I’ve used coco quite a bit myself but I’m starting to think that it was more of a battle than needed. I’ve since found a replacement for coco in the BioBizz Light Mix so I can still mix my own soil and add in what I want to make it ideal for my environment. I think this also plays a little nicer with premixed hot soils like FFOF. Instead of cutting FFOF with coco if you use BioBizz Light Mix instead you should get the benefits of both without the high nutrient content of just FFOF alone. That was always my intention with using coco and since replacing coco with Light Mix I’ve had much better and more consistent results.

Anyhow we’ll see how it goes. So far so so good.
 
JWM2

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The reason for using FFOF is it has a lot of the amendments that you’d use in a super soil without the hassle of buying tons of supplies. It’s a good soil but it’s just too hot for young plants. That’s why some like to use it as a bottom layer on their pots so by the time the roots reach it the plant is well developed and can handle it better. However it’s my belief that even still it’s too hot. I’d rather have not enough than too much since I can easily feed my plants with liquid nutrients as I see fit. Nothing screams amateur more than burned up leaf tips and edges. So backing off the FFOF imo gives you the benefits of it yet without the risk of nute burn.
 
JWM2

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Nah, you got that one brother. Leew421 was a close second.

Thanks for the reminder.

Here’s some pics of the far red puck I was telling you about. The plants don’t need a ton of the far red light so this works just fine for what I’m using it for. Mostly just a reminder of when bed time is about to start. It costs nothing in electricity to run and has a built in power supply on the cord so there’s no external ballast to run it.
 
Srenots

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The reason for using FFOF is it has a lot of the amendments that you’d use in a super soil without the hassle of buying tons of supplies. It’s a good soil but it’s just too hot for young plants. That’s why some like to use it as a bottom layer on their pots so by the time the roots reach it the plant is well developed and can handle it better. However it’s my belief that even still it’s too hot. I’d rather have not enough than too much since I can easily feed my plants with liquid nutrients as I see fit. Nothing screams amateur more than burned up leaf tips and edges. So backing off the FFOF imo gives you the benefits of it yet without the risk of nute burn.
nah, Ive been using FFOF for years from seed to finish with no issues at all...maybe you are having another issue bro....
 
JWM2

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nah, Ive been using FFOF for years from seed to finish with no issues at all...maybe you are having another issue bro....

Straight FFOF? I've tried to use it (straight) and have always had stunted plants from nute burn. Not sure what else would affect a plant in fresh soil without added nutrients in the water being fed to it.

That's why i've always attributed it to that single factor. Once I started diluting the soil the problems went away.

Of course it could be strains that are overly sensitive to the nutrient content in it. Not saying its not good soil, it just doesn't work for me straight out of the bag.
 
Srenots

Srenots

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Straight FFOF? I've tried to use it (straight) and have always had stunted plants from nute burn. Not sure what else would affect a plant in fresh soil without added nutrients in the water being fed to it.

That's why i've always attributed it to that single factor. Once I started diluting the soil the problems went away.

Of course it could be strains that are overly sensitive to the nutrient content in it. Not saying its not good soil, it just doesn't work for me straight out of the bag.
true....could just be the genetics...I use it str8 for seeds and use plain water until they get established and never had any issues....just goes to show that evryones style can be different...keep rockin bro and use what works~
 
JWM2

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true....could just be the genetics...I use it str8 for seeds and use plain water until they get established and never had any issues....just goes to show that evryones style can be different...keep rockin bro and use what works~

For sure, i'll give it another try straight and see if I still have issues. It's been years since I've tried to use it straight so maybe things have changed. It is good stuff though :-)
 
JWM2

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For the record I believe I could pull 25 oz's every (8 week) cycle with 10 AK-47's at a cost of $20/month for electricity. That's 12.5/oz per month off a 260watt HLG Quantum QB288v2 LED grow light thats turned down to about 180 watts.

That's damn near 2 (1.94444) grams per watt. 350g / 180w = 1.9444g/w. I'm not that great of a grower so these lights are pretty friggin amazing as far as efficiency goes.

That's roughly $3750 (@ $150/oz street price) for $40 worth of electricity + soil & nutrients. Genetics are clones i've taken myself and the rapid rooters cost me .50/ea. So if you factor in $60 worth of grow supplies per cycle. Thats a cost of $100 per round for $3750 worth of bud. Or rather $4/oz to grow in The Growing Rack.
 
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MeanGreen420

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The water it the bottom just helps keep them moist but not wet. Every couple days I have a dropper I use to suck up the water and drip it on the plugs to get them wet. Just do that every few days as they develop roots. I don’t soak the plugs but I do drip some water on them so they are wet starting out. Soaking them would do the same thing so whatever works for you.

I do add a little more water along the way but the water at the bottom just keeps the cuttings from drying out. It might not be needed but I’ve had good luck doing it.
I’ve had my seeds turn to mush when rooter stays soaked. Your method is the same as I’ve trial and errored to find out.
 
MeanGreen420

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For the record I believe I could pull 25 oz's every (8 week) cycle with 10 AK-47's at a cost of $20/month for electricity. That's 12.5/oz per month off a 260watt HLG Quantum QB288v2 LED grow light thats turned down to about 180 watts.

That's damn near 2 (1.94444) grams per watt. 350g / 180w = 1.9444g/w. I'm not that great of a grower so these lights are pretty friggin amazing as far as efficiency goes.

That's roughly $3750 (@ $150/oz street price) for $40 worth of electricity + soil & nutrients. Genetics are clones i've taken myself and the rapid rooters cost me .50/ea. So if you factor in $60 worth of grow supplies per cycle. Thats a cost of $100 per round for $3750 worth of bud. Or rather $4/oz to grow in The Growing Rack.
Jw I know I’ve asked before but I’m ask again lol how long you veging for in the grow rack? And is it from clone or seed?
 
JWM2

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Jw I know I’ve asked before but I’m ask again lol how long you veging for in the grow rack? And is it from clone or seed?

I veg until they are between 12-14" tall. I top to get cuttings for clones and to promote side branching. Mind you these figures are in a 10sqft flowering space. I could do more with bigger plants and more veg time. Veg time on average is 2-3 weeks.

I grow from clone typically until I introduce a new strain and then those come from seeds. I grow them until they can be cloned, then I flower them out and select my keeper(s). From there that strain is cloned and a mother is kept and rotated through. I keep mothers until they start to get out of control and then flower them out while a rooted clone takes her place as the new mom.
 
MeanGreen420

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I veg until they are between 12-14" tall. I top to get cuttings for clones and to promote side branching. Mind you these figures are in a 10sqft flowering space. I could do more with bigger plants and more veg time. Veg time on average is 2-3 weeks.

I grow from clone typically until I introduce a new strain and then those come from seeds. I grow them until they can be cloned, then I flower them out and select my keeper(s). From there that strain is cloned and a mother is kept and rotated through. I keep mothers until they start to get out of control and then flower them out while a rooted clone takes her place as the new mom.
I love how we can keep duplicating plants from clones it’s awesome!
 
MeanGreen420

MeanGreen420

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I veg until they are between 12-14" tall. I top to get cuttings for clones and to promote side branching. Mind you these figures are in a 10sqft flowering space. I could do more with bigger plants and more veg time. Veg time on average is 2-3 weeks.

I grow from clone typically until I introduce a new strain and then those come from seeds. I grow them until they can be cloned, then I flower them out and select my keeper(s). From there that strain is cloned and a mother is kept and rotated through. I keep mothers until they start to get out of control and then flower them out while a rooted clone takes her place as the new mom.
Reason for veg time is I’m wanting to flower more plants in a quicker time but with limited space need a shorter veg with more plants. I don’t see anything wrong with more plants especially when I can do them all in one 55 gal hdx tote for dwc. Have you tried the Giesel Cookies from this forum?
 
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