Was Told Kelp Enzymes Break Down Excess Nutes: Truth?

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Seamaiden

Seamaiden

Living dead girl
Nice!

@beezleb878 -- I think you've just helped me understand why the Sea-90 works so well. I've been going off the Italian seawater study, but hey, I'll take all the help I can get!
 
beezleb878

beezleb878

@ Perception
your plants look at little nitrogen toxic. See how the end of the leaves curve like that, before even the tip but the curve is illustrative of toxicity.
I would cut your nitrogen by 1/4 or 1/3 in veg and reduce to cut by onset of flowering.
Could also be to wet and just some plants will do that. Mostly though, it normally nitrogen toxicity when this is seen.
Lowering nitrogen will give you tighter/heavier buds, stronger stems and better flowering times.
All that said, looking good for 7 weeks and I often suffer from same affliction when learning new plants.

Maybe this will help you in understanding some more directions.
Check out natural farming
http://www.cgnfindia.com/

An outstanding video talk on natural farming by drake. They are very long but worth it.

@Seamaiden It is an honor! Many years ago I remember you when I came here and you were doing much helping with people. Much respect and keep on keeping on.

What has helped me is understanding this plant in a variety of growing methods and appreciation for growing environment at various levels of the plant from soil/media, internal plant and canopy. Those experiences and lessons have done me well but like I said, I am no one special and am just a pup.

In soils, I use a concentrated sea water mix with regular water. You will want to reduce NPK nutrients by 1/3 to 1/4 (I personally like to learn my plants hungry so I am conservative in my numbers for safety). However, the sea water will help the plant meet its mineral needs as the minerals are water soluble and they are also loved by the micro herd. A bit in teas while brewing are great too.

I also foliar feed it. This is for brix that I do it. A little goes a long way and foliar feeding often is not good.

Their is a trade off in high brix and yield. I like around a 12 to 15 brix level as this is said to be when the plants are too sappy for most above ground pests.

Brix also affects terpenes and over all health. I consider after brix level 12-15 subjective towards each grower.

I am glad to have assisted.
Beezleb878
 
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Seamaiden

Seamaiden

Living dead girl
I include a dry humic acid product much of the time, it allows me to further reduce overall fertilizer usage. :) It is fantastic as an addition in aquaponics.

Great post!
 
Perception

Perception

@ Perception
your plants look at little nitrogen toxic. See how the end of the leaves curve like that, before even the tip but the curve is illustrative of toxicity.
Beezleb878

Agreed. The N-excess is what prompted me to start this thread. I added some Nitrogen when up-potting from 1gal to 3gal pots when I switched to flowering, which in hindsight was a bad idea, as the FFOF seemed to have enough nitrogen to begin with. No additional supplements have been added during flowering, so there wasn't a whole lot I could do. I opted not to flush, as I didn't want to drown the roots and possibly invite bugs or other nasties.

So, just letting them run through on their own! I'm going to re-use the same FFOF from these pots on my next grow, as the nitrogen content should be a little lower.
 
beezleb878

beezleb878

I have found a company out of Texas called Microlife that has a humic/fulvic acid complex that is 10% humic 5% fulvic at a very good price.

http://www.microlifefertilizer.com/...-acid-complex-15-humic-acid-10-fulvic-acid-5/

The bottle shown above will work and seems nicely concentrated. You can also order humic and fulvic from kelp for less at reasonable prices too. If you make your own worm castings you will also make humic acids.

That product seems good for an in the media product. While it will work foliar wise it is not really ideal and seems to be more of a product made for an all in one aspect. When you see this, their are typically compromises made in terms of efficiency to effectiveness but this does not mean that it is bad. More like in cars, stick shift verse automatic. By the amount they have I am not sure if I am comfortable insinuating it is less effective to the degree we would visibly notice.

When transplanting next time, about a week before transplant and after transplant for a week or until the plant gains its feet give the plant b-vitamins (superthrive works). This will work to reduce stress from the plant and should be done any time the plant goes into a stress situation, transplanting, transition to flower etc.

I prefer to boost nitrogen if needed via worm casting or guano top dressed if necessary. Never in flower as if you give to much nitrogen you put out of whack and the plant will take longer to flower and less dense buds.
 
Perception

Perception

@beezleb878 I'm about 2/3 through that FarmLife video. Great stuff! It's shedding some light on what you and @Seamaiden have been discussing. I hope to finish it tonight - might have some questions for you :D
 
Ecompost

Ecompost

Here is a photo from last night. Almost on week 7 of flowering. Trichomes are just starting to turn opaque from clear. No Amber yet. You can see that the claw leaf never cleared up, but doesn't seem to be hurting them.
lovely mate, super work. Some strains get claw leaf anyway, they look super so i wouldnt worry :-)
 
Ecompost

Ecompost

The bottle shown above will work and seems nicely concentrated. You can also order humic and fulvic from kelp for less at reasonable prices too. If you make your own worm castings you will also make humic acids.

That product seems good for an in the media product. While it will work foliar wise it is not really ideal and seems to be more of a product made for an all in one aspect. When you see this, their are typically compromises made in terms of efficiency to effectiveness but this does not mean that it is bad. More like in cars, stick shift verse automatic. By the amount they have I am not sure if I am comfortable insinuating it is less effective to the degree we would visibly notice.

When transplanting next time, about a week before transplant and after transplant for a week or until the plant gains its feet give the plant b-vitamins (superthrive works). This will work to reduce stress from the plant and should be done any time the plant goes into a stress situation, transplanting, transition to flower etc.

I prefer to boost nitrogen if needed via worm casting or guano top dressed if necessary. Never in flower as if you give to much nitrogen you put out of whack and the plant will take longer to flower and less dense buds.

I like to use Amino N where i need to gt it in quick, I also use KAMINO to provide access to b12 for example as well as other useful stress reducing vits (C) (E) and adds like SiO4 and Calcium. I do however find if i use KAMINO late, it can delay ripening in some instances. having had a look it appears under certain conditions, eg where media has been allowed to over dry and subsequent ET issues arise, we mass a bunch of microbes that prevent the accumulation of ethylene, these are fairly common soil microbes that are now being used in post harvest fruit washes to add shelf life to crops but if you are under the time line, its a possible thing to consider. Perhaps Kelp as a bio stim also encourages these microbes which in turn insert gene code to delay the accumulation of ETR-1 receptors?
 
Perception

Perception

Finished the video. LOTS of good info - I kind of wish he had finished up talking about how he incorporates his Fungal IMO rice in to his Teat.

@beezleb878 @Seamaiden You both mention that you are using dry humic acid additives. In that video, Drake states that EW castings have high concentrations of humic acid. Would making an AACT with EW castings provide the humic acid that is needed?
 
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