Water Chilling Q & A

seebobsled · Jul 19, 2013

The base ac the manufacturer uses determines the amount of heat can be discharged from the size of condensing coil.
The Whaley 2 ton started with a 14 eer coil so as long as water to freon is sizes properly . That chiller has so much more coil surface compared to chill king. Who's more effective.

ttystikk · Jul 19, 2013

seebobsled said:
The base ac the manufacturer uses determines the amount of heat can be discharged from the size of condensing coil.
The Whaley 2 ton started with a 14 eer coil so as long as water to freon is sizes properly . That chiller has so much more coil surface compared to chill king. Who's more effective.

ChillKing was the best I was aware of at the time. Moving forward, I will probably contact Whaley.

aSilvrHaze · Jul 19, 2013

I'm really digging this thread but it kinda seems like its turning into a pissing match....no offense

ttystikk · Jul 19, 2013

aSilvrHaze said:
I'm really digging this thread but it kinda seems like its turning into a pissing match....no offense

We got it handled, thank you for your concern.

There was a difference of opinion about how the pricing I got should have been discussed.

The takeaway lesson, at least for me, is to start your equipment search as soon as you know you will need it at some point in the not too distant future and in this way be perfectly placed for any bargains you might come across, because at this stage, YOU have the pricing power; you don't NEED it, yet.

Once the failure has occurred and you're scrambling, getting a deal is much harder because you have no negotiating power and no time. Then, you're stuck paying full retail.

So the lesson is to start equipment searches with as much lead time as you can. This lesson cost me about $800 in chiller repairs. It also SAVED me $1000 off of retail because I'd taken advantage of the layaway offer my hydro store gave me back in February or thereabouts. Call it a wash, maybe...

seebobsled · Jul 19, 2013

http://www.engineeringtoolbox.com/cop-eer-d_409.html

For the eer info

Seamaiden · Jul 20, 2013

I'm glad to see it sorted out, gentlemen.

ttystikk · Jul 20, 2013

Okay, so these are more like installation questions;
when running two separate chiller units in the same system, does one link the water lines in series: pump to chiller A, to chiller B, then back to reservoir, or should each unit have its own dedicated line from the pump and back to the res?

How do you deal with settings for the machines?

Is there a way to set them up so the load is split evenly, or is it more desirable to have one be the primary and the other operating as backup only?

Seamaiden · Jul 20, 2013

Ok, no pix that I recall, but I still stickied this thread.

seebobsled · Jul 20, 2013

ttystikk said:
Okay, so these are more like installation questions;
when running two separate chiller units in the same system, does one link the water lines in series: pump to chiller A, to chiller B, then back to reservoir, or should each unit have its own dedicated line from the pump and back to the res?

How do you deal with settings for the machines?

Is there a way to set them up so the load is split evenly, or is it more desirable to have one be the primary and the other operating as backup only?

I run to main chiller first and loop thru second and then flow switch and thermometer for a external dual stage temp controller that has restart delay,temp swing, heat or cool independently with 30 amp relays. I set main temp and second up a few degrees from that. Control Products manufactured it. Ranco makes a dual stage like chill king uses.

seebobsled · Jul 20, 2013

Seamaiden said:
Ok, no pix that I recall, but I still stickied this thread.

Sorry smartphone causing problems! I tried.

aSilvrHaze · Jul 20, 2013

I'll see what I can do for pics!
* can I link to another forum, or should I ask to use dudes photos then upload here?

ttystikk · Jul 20, 2013

seebobsled said:
I run to main chiller first and loop thru second and then flow switch and thermometer for a external dual stage temp controller that has restart delay,temp swing, heat or cool independently with 30 amp relays. I set main temp and second up a few degrees from that. Control Products manufactured it. Ranco makes a dual stage like chill king uses.

Ranco units come bolted go the front of the ChillKing chillers, which is how I heard of them. I would need something more than this, then? Sounds like a few hundred bux for a good HVAC tech to wire it up?

seebobsled · Jul 20, 2013

I wired myself. Not hard . EBay has them cheaper. Here a link of controllers at a retailer.
http://www.littlegreenhouse.com/accessory/controls.shtml#dif

seebobsled · Jul 20, 2013

If you know the control voltage (24v,120v,220v). Or known as trigger voltage then get a dual stage instead of the single one like on stock. Controllers can handle 120v-240v to the amp rating stated.
I wired the main relays to a dedicated breaker and unit power gets plugged in to my no-flow-AhOO-overflow diy controller.

seebobsled · Jul 20, 2013

You can plug both into a external controller and use the auto restart built in. I do. Easy but 3 controllers running at peak. Mine are built in not external.

seebobsled · Jul 20, 2013

I'm installing a real ground rod 8 feet 5/8 dia. Was using the cold water pipe and worked but not safe if you can't tie in at ground penetrated surface where it comes out to your water meter. Ground rods save your equipment if you loose your return line from the main transformer. My house panel wasn't grounded and it did happen.

BE SAFE!

seebobsled · Jul 21, 2013

ttystikk said:
Ranco units come bolted go the front of the ChillKing chillers, which is how I heard of them. I would need something more than this, then? Sounds like a few hundred bux for a good HVAC tech to wire it up?

I used an external control mainly for dead band control. You can just run the 2 single stage controllers and have the second one with higher start temp and a temp swing to meet the first chillers stop temp. One dual stage would save minimal amps but you pay for all of them!

ttystikk · Jul 21, 2013

seebobsled said:
I used an external control mainly for dead band control. You can just run the 2 single stage controllers and have the second one with higher start temp and a temp swing to meet the first chillers stop temp. One dual stage would save minimal amps but you pay for all of them!

I'm second guessing myself here. At first, I was thinking that installing the second chiller would be a temporary affair, just until September cools things off, but I'm already experimenting with vertical bare bulb setups and of course they run hotter.

I want the best, most dependable solution, then. Would it make more sense to buy the dual controller and bypass the Ranco units altogether? Easy enough to do, just wire to the contactor inside the unit. Wouldn't even need to remove the Ranco unit...?

Seamaiden · Jul 21, 2013

aSilvrHaze said:
I'll see what I can do for pics!
* can I link to another forum, or should I ask to use dudes photos then upload here?

They have to be uploaded here.

seebobsled · Jul 23, 2013

ttystikk said:
I'm second guessing myself here. At first, I was thinking that installing the second chiller would be a temporary affair, just until September cools things off, but I'm already experimenting with vertical bare bulb setups and of course they run hotter.

I want the best, most dependable solution, then. Would it make more sense to buy the dual controller and bypass the Ranco units altogether? Easy enough to do, just wire to the contactor inside the unit. Wouldn't even need to remove the Ranco unit...?

If you set as said not much difference adding a dual stage. Just loop thru both and back to Rez. The first one is stage one. The second compressor kicks in when needed if set a few degrees above stage 1.
I had to because of stock didn't have but 2 degrees swing. On n off every few minutes for only a few. Lots of startup amps add up! Now 6 degree swing and start up down to 3 to 5 times a hour for 4 to 7 min run time.

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