Water cooled grow room

[nuttso]

with optimal conditions you can get up to 9kg from this room. depends alot on the strain you run. but with nlx or sage you can hit 5-6 kg....every 56 days without veg

 

[GenghisDon]

7.77kg is my guess for this round.

 

[funkysmoker]

yo dudes can you translate that into american ? like pounds ? also I wonder how this room drains or reuses the water and it seems like the pots are looking toxic and i see leafs yellowing ?

 

[funkysmoker]

crazyness ,,,,, very high tech compared to my simple organic grow . And people think pot heads are stupid

 

[funkysmoker]

Sure,

Opticlimate cools, circulates,filters,heats and dehumidifies the air in the grow-room. There is a little filter+fan at the back of the room to prevent the good old smell outside the room. There is also an uvonair ozon unit on top of the room. The fan refreches the room 5 times every hour.
http://opticlimate.absolutecs.gr/

The dimlux ballasts are auto or manuel dimmable. They dim when growroom gets to hot or when leaftemp rise above room temp. (no evaporation) The controller that controls the lights has a vpd calculator and co2 controller build in.
http://dimlux.absolutecs.gr/

The medium i use is rfx-1. By the application of Earthwool the product is almost 100% natural. Raw materials used are all new, so there are no recycled raw materials processed in RFX-1 mix. Therefore no diseases or contamination of mold from the outside. It looks the same as the old mapito with rockwool and foam flakes in it.

Watering is eb/flow. The autogrow intellidose dosingcomputer fills a watertank (1200ltr) with fresh water from a well. Nutients and PH are set automatic. Every other day a timer pumps all the water in the growroom (flood) and leaves it there for half an hour. Another pump on the floor of the growroom is than activated by the timer and pumps all the water back into the tank. Water will be filled again and the whole cycle starts over again.

I just sit and watch :p

F U man thats too easy

 

[Racker]

Haha, pots are not toxic, i think you mean the algue. Looks like shit but is normal with white/wet pots in light. When you don't like them, buy black ones. (you don't see them on black)

What do you mean by reuses water? Water for cooling or water i give to the plants?

Easy is the wrong word.....it's less work.....

 

[Racker]

Update,

 

[nMEEKS]

:D Boom! What day is this now Racker?! by my count this is only day 15?! Those girls blew up fast it seems, really nice work so far, keep the updates coming!

-Meeks

 

[Racker]

Hey Meeks,

This is 20days 12/12. Normal this casey flowers 7,5 weeks.

 

[Smoking Gun]

That is a serious sea of green you have going in there.

 

[ink]

hahha lol fight to the death.
man thats funny room, plants look good dude, nice and even canopy. opticlimate in your hands rocks out everytime.
christmas is coming lets hope santa brings me one haha. lovely show.:rolleyes:

 

[ink]

also hows your tank holding up. note can see algae on the fabric pots,,,

are we placing bets on the yeild hahahah. if so am in

 

[Racker]

Tank is fine Ink, the H202 takes care of all bad stuff swimming around. The autogrow is giving me some troubles. PH down doesn't work on random times. Works 3 days, 4 day it stops. 5 day it works again......:mad:
Update time....

.View attachment 259311

First time co2 in the room. I use tanks. With 4ltr/min. I use 1 tank in 1 week now. Ppm level is 600 for this week. Next week 700ppm.

Night temp still 78F
Day temp 86F
RH% 60/70%
Co2 600ppm
EC/PH 1,8/5,5

Now the real flowering starts to kick in. Next week temps are set at 71F night and 86 with lights on.

 

[Yaacov]

Hello to everyone on this forum , my name is Alexander and i'm new here.

Racker your doing a fantastic job , my guess is ,you have a lott of experience.


I hope to start my own experiment next month . Setup will probably be with 1 Gavita 1000W + aeroponic system by LetGrow .

 

[CaliOceanGrown]

:eek: can someone help me lift my jaw off the floor! I want those ballast so bad, specially since it can be totally automated & adjusted to climate changes. i'm certainly going to be looking into this company, It's About Time!

 

[ttystikk]

I'm a grow gearhead and I'm impressed with all the sexy toys you have there! I'm saving up for the Gavita lights, myself- would you recommend one piece units or the remotes like you have?

 

[ttystikk]

The Opticlimate unit is interesting, too- the hot water is easier to manage than hot air, especially in tight spaces. I run a chiller, where the output is cold water and the heat is still hot air. The advantages I was striving for included system efficiency over standard AC and the fact that with a pair of waterlines, I can route my cold to anywhere its needed. I wonder if the opticlimate folks have a unit that chills water, while still getting rid of heat as hot water? If so, I would be very interested- I could use the hot water for all kinds of uses around my house, including heating it in the winter!

 

[Racker]

Hi, Alexander, welcome to the show. Experience? Mwaaaaa...

@Caliocenagrow, yeah...there is a whole world between lights on and lights off. Remember, good climate is nr1, lights are nr2 and the rest comes half an hour later. ;)

@Ttystickk, The difference between remote and one piece units is the good old EMI. When keeping cables between hoods and ballast short, you reduce EMI. My ballasts are on the floor above, 3 feet from the reflectors. Big advantage with dimlux ballast is that there is no switching going on. Lights go on, off and dim digital with a remote controller. No switch gear, timers relais nothing. The ballast has power 24/7 meaning that there is no inrush current. Capacitors are charged always.

The heat from your lights is now captured in water, the water goes away and all the heat goes with it. When you cool the water with a chiller, the heat goes into the air again. (you can heat your house with it) Opticlimate is building something that cools the water with air. The water that than enters the opticlimate is 86gr and exits with 95gr, cooler has to bring it back to 86gr etc etc. Than you have a closed system running on only water or antifreeze.

I use it on a well. Water enters at 60gr and exits at 100gr. The trick is in the gallons/min.

(hope this makes sense)

 

[ttystikk]

@Ttystickk, The difference between remote and one piece units is the good old EMI. When keeping cables between hoods and ballast short, you reduce EMI. My ballasts are on the floor above, 3 feet from the reflectors. Big advantage with dimlux ballast is that there is no switching going on. Lights go on, off and dim digital with a remote controller. No switch gear, timers relais nothing. The ballast has power 24/7 meaning that there is no inrush current. Capacitors are charged always.

The heat from your lights is now captured in water, the water goes away and all the heat goes with it. When you cool the water with a chiller, the heat goes into the air again. (you can heat your house with it) Opticlimate is building something that cools the water with air. The water that than enters the opticlimate is 86gr and exits with 95gr, cooler has to bring it back to 86gr etc etc. Than you have a closed system running on only water or antifreeze.

I use it on a well. Water enters at 60gr and exits at 100gr. The trick is in the gallons/min.

(hope this makes sense)

It makes sense to me- I indeed already do use the hot air output from my chiller to heat my home in the winter. Last winter we ran the furnace just twice, each time for less than 20 minutes.And, this isn't North Florida, either- I live in Colorado, where it gets below zero!

My point about having the system heat water instead of air is that the hot water would be as controllable and routable as the cold water is for me now. In the summer, the excess heat still has to go somewhere- and that could be through a water-to-air heat exchanger sitting outside.

On to the lighting- are you using lighting equipment from another maker and not Gavita? My interest in remote ballasts is to keep the ballast out of the growroom and therefore less susceptible to humidity, condensation, chemicals, etc. In addition to the ones you mentioned above, another good reason to use short cords or none at all is simple efficiency; no cord transmits electricity perfectly (only superconductors come close, and that's not a garden-ready tech yet!) so the longer the cord, the more resistance losses accrue. It is this property that limits how long the cord can be and still fire the bulb.

 

[GenghisDon]

Gavita ballasts are sealed with a Gortex one-way valve.

Also, there's more to the non-remote Gavita with the DE bulb, no ignition wire inside to obstruct light output.