Water comes out of tap at around 50ppmDo you know what the PPM of the water is coming out of the tap? Is it a municipal water source? I have found in the past that when the water table drops, the PPM's get higher and alkaline , but I'm on a community well system. Also it's a good idea to oxygenate your water. 64°F is the temperature that oxygen is most in solution. I constantly have water movement in my fill tank. Temperature is also important
I set the PH to 6.5 as detailed in my previous post, and today, 12hrs later, I tested it again and the PH was 7.3. I've added another 5mil of PH Down and the PH is now 6.3. Doesnt look like that 15mil ph up worked to stabilise my PH tho. I've now added 15mil PH Up and 15mil PH down to my mix which means the "buffer" is now 50/50 again right? I expect the PH of the tank to be over 7 again by the time i get home from work. Truly annoying.Ok let me explain... normally you don't add both because you can change your nutrient ratios. But you need to have a PH buffer or the PH will be very unstable.
So first start low. Take your tap water and add 1/2 tsp per 5 gal of ph up. Measure ph and if over 8 the reduce to 6.5 with ph down before adding your nutrients. This is to make sure you don't have nutrients precipitate out of the solution.
Then add your nutrients as directed. I suggest half the recommended does of each but I won't get into that as this about ph and need to get that fixed.
After adding nutrients ph down to 5.8.
Check the mix in an hr or 2 after mixing if using water straight from the tap as the PH may rise slightly. If it's up ph down to 5.8.
From there test it again in 24 hrs. The PH should rise about 0.2-0.3. If it's more then we will adjust the buffer at that point based on the change you see.
Once we figure out the amount need for a proper buffer your golden and will know exactly how much to add for a nice stable ph.
I have a very similar situation that has been bugging me for years. I'm trying the same thing but only have a few hours passed. I wouldn't give up hope quite yet Aquaman truly does know his shit.I set the PH to 6.5 as detailed in my previous post, and today, 12hrs later, I tested it again and the PH was 7.3. I've added another 5mil of PH Down and the PH is now 6.3. Doesnt look like that 15mil ph up worked to stabilise my PH tho. I've now added 15mil PH Up and 15mil PH down to my mix which means the "buffer" is now 50/50 again right? I expect the PH of the tank to be over 7 again by the time i get home from work. Truly annoying.
I get it all year round but I never had this problem 2-3 years ago, something the water company has done has changed the chemistry of my water. Almost like a way to stop people growing lol. Maybe the water company added something to the water to keep the PH above 7 so the pipes wouldnt degrade from acidic water idk. I'm just throwing theories at the wall at this point. I'd love to get to the bottom of this issue tho, like I said its been plaguing me for 2 years now. If you discover a fix let me know. The only thing ive found that keeps the PH semi stable is a product called "Bloombastic" by ATAMI, you only give it to the plants in late flower tho, its a clay based "booster", once added to the nutrient tank it is more difficult to move the PH of the solution, so i'm not sure what is in Bloombastic exactly but that its the closest thing I've used to a PH stabilizer.I have a very similar situation that has been bugging me for years. I'm trying the same thing but only have a few hours passed. I wouldn't give up hope quite yet Aquaman truly does know his shit.
I have no idea how or why but for me this phenomenon seems to be more prevalent when it gets really hot.
I'm currently using Atami Bcuzz Coco brand and have been for 10 years. What were you using and what brand did you swap to that fixed your issue?I had this problem years ago when I moved to a new property, adding silicon first helped but it would still rise , I tried 3 different nutrient brands before I found one that suited the water for that particular property it was a nightmare maybe u need a different brand of nutrient mate
Yeah I'm in UK (northwest), I know hydrotops I've used them before on DWC system. I've recently sent off my water to that company but they said it could take a long time to analyse due to flu backlog. Good to know canna could be an alternative tho, thanks.I was using Dutch pro a+b , canna coco a+b sorted me out , iv used atami bcuzz and its good stuff tbh , not sure where ur located but in the uk we have a brand called hydrotops and u can send them a sample of ur water and they will tailor the nutrient to ur water maybe something like that is worth a try
At the moment im using monkey nutrients and tbh its the most solid a+b iv used iv been using it for months now and iv stopped checking the ph after setting it its so sold, I no they've had a lil bit of bad press but I carnt fault them if u email them they'll send u a sample pack mate there root shoot is next levelYeah I'm in UK (northwest), I know hydrotops I've used them before on DWC system. I've recently sent off my water to that company but they said it could take a long time to analyse due to covid backlog. Good to know canna could be an alternative tho, thanks.
Man I wish I had a 0.2 drift over 72hrs. In 72hrs I get about a 1-1.5 ph drift even when I do nothing to the water and just let it stand from tap.I followed your post and waited until I had to do a mix in my own tank and could track the PH drift. I get it as well. I run a 65 gallon / 246 liter tank for the flower room and mix with DI water (0 ppm).
1) I add my Silicone one hour before mixing the rest of the nutrients. Immediately after adding the Silicone I add 45 ml of General Hydroponics PH Down.
2) After 1 hour I measure PH which is generally around 5.4 - 5.5 If thats where it is I add the full bill of nutrients and additives.
3) This generally puts me around 5.85 though it can be higher or lower as my schedule dictates the amount/combination of nutrients that are added and that alters the result. If neccessary I adjust to 5.85.
4) I checked this morning which is about 72 hours after this last batch was mixed. PH this morning was 6.08. I added another 15 ml of PH Down, bringing it back down to 5.85.
5) Check again in 3-5 days.
Occasionally I will add PH Up but its a much more uncommon occurence. PH Down I buy by the gallon and thats a 4 year supply. I bought a much smaller container of PH Up and its not even 1/3 used yet.
The only thing I would change is allowing the potassium silicate to mix for 30 min before ph down. It will appreciate a higher ph while mixing.I followed your post and waited until I had to do a mix in my own tank and could track the PH drift. I get it as well. I run a 65 gallon / 246 liter tank for the flower room and mix with DI water (0 ppm).
1) I add my Silicone one hour before mixing the rest of the nutrients. Immediately after adding the Silicone I add 45 ml of General Hydroponics PH Down.
2) After 1 hour I measure PH which is generally around 5.4 - 5.5 If thats where it is I add the full bill of nutrients and additives.
3) This generally puts me around 5.85 though it can be higher or lower as my schedule dictates the amount/combination of nutrients that are added and that alters the result. If neccessary I adjust to 5.85.
4) I checked this morning which is about 72 hours after this last batch was mixed. PH this morning was 6.08. I added another 15 ml of PH Down, bringing it back down to 5.85.
5) Check again in 3-5 days.
Occasionally I will add PH Up but its a much more uncommon occurence. PH Down I buy by the gallon and thats a 4 year supply. I bought a much smaller container of PH Up and its not even 1/3 used yet.
Thanks, I will try getting hold of some dry potassium bicarbonate or concentrated potassium silicate from somewhere.OP if you switch to potassium silicate imo it's the best option. But once you get the amount figured both will work. I always like to start low so your not using more than needed. Cost wise your best off to purchase dry potassium bicarbonate or concentrated potassium silicate.
This is the stuff I use... its dirt cheap and will go miles longer than your PH up. I use 2ml per 5 gal with my tap. 500ml was like $11CAD local.
Getting there.Thanks, I will try getting hold of some dry potassium bicarbonate or concentrated potassium silicate from somewhere.
Since I made the last post about my ph being 6.3, I'm now home from work and it is now 6.5, what's that about 8hrs later? Not bad I suppose.
This is exactly why we carbon filter. The water was not being cooperative. We pH'ed both directions constantly in our first indoor grow. It was maddening. Finally, we started carbon filtering the water and the problem vanished. With the carbon filtering and the organic grow, we haven't had a pH problem since.I get it all year round but I never had this problem 2-3 years ago, something the water company has done has changed the chemistry of my water. Almost like a way to stop people growing lol. Maybe the water company added something to the water to keep the PH above 7 so the pipes wouldnt degrade from acidic water idk. I'm just throwing theories at the wall at this point. I'd love to get to the bottom of this issue tho, like I said its been plaguing me for 2 years now. If you discover a fix let me know. The only thing ive found that keeps the PH semi stable is a product called "Bloombastic" by ATAMI, you only give it to the plants in late flower tho, its a clay based "booster", once added to the nutrient tank it is more difficult to move the PH of the solution, so i'm not sure what is in Bloombastic exactly but that its the closest thing I've used to a PH stabilizer.
Carbon does not effect PH.This is exactly why we carbon filter. The water was not being cooperative. We pH'ed both directions constantly in our first indoor grow. It was maddening. Finally, we started carbon filtering the water and the problem vanished. With the carbon filtering and the organic grow, we haven't had a pH problem since.
I don't promise it will fix your grow, but it got rid of some nasty problems for us.
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