Watering, how media, pot size/shape and environment affect it

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GDub51

GDub51

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Excellent subject. One of the reasons I've gone to using coco in my cloth air pots, I've also started to regulate things like temp, humidity and air movement in the room, much more closely. I've also take many of these steps to eliminate the problems of over/under water.

Do you think that adding amendments to coco, such as possibly some perlite, or even possibly larger pieces like bark, might create some small spaces within the media that could be of benefit of increasing oxygen exchange? Would numerous amounts of tiny empty voids in the medium allow better root proliferation? Or is coco pretty much as optimized as it possibly can be. Or maybe even regulating the media structure from the bottom upwards to the top point, creating a slightly different mixture content in an ascending direction, to help optimize better oxygen transfer in all parts of the media.

There's so much about this subject in particular to explore new and novel ways of increasing/optimizing gas exchange in the media, it's a very critical factor, no doubt.
Coco is the one thing I have not tried to create a better gas exchange. My perlite/pumice/cactus & succulent soil/sand portion of my mix is up to almost half of the total volume. Yet I still cannot get my soil to drain properly or provide space for root expansion. My root balls are severely stunted making the plants difficult to water and unsteady in the Santa Ana winds even with silica supplementation. I had thought leftover hyphae from mycorrhizae supplementation from previous grows, after being raked in the sun for a week to kill any pathogens that had wiped out my first grow this year. So for my fourth try this season, now with an auto (Bruce Banner Fast) none of the leftover soil was used. I used fresh Ocean Forest and compost with a 40% mix of the above noted "circulation additives" and still have a pot of wet mud that can't breathe. This mix is touted all over as correct, so why doesn't it work for me? My pots are 21" tall!! I also have used a plant stake to poke 30+-holes to the bottom of my tall plastic cans (see pics) for drainage and circulation to no effect. I have now gone thru 56! seeds this year to get a half dozen runted waste of times. I've used the same mixes for previous seasons with fine success, I'm still at a total loss as to why I can't grow this year due to soil problems not draining. Yes, it is a little cooler this year, but not enough to make this much trouble. I cannot repot again as I now have a broken shoulder. I'm going away for a week so plants may die anyway as I have no one to help water. I bought an automatic watering system only to realize it only uses tap water which here is poison to young seedlings with a PPM over 500!! And it's full of chlorine and chloramines. I may try another auto when I return, I'll no doubt have some empty cans by then as the plants die off.
 
Tracyfri

Tracyfri

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Ever thought about hydro? about dwc? or top drip or ebb and flow with clay pebbles? No more soil. It doesn't need to be complicated the hydro that is. Just curious. I know what frustration of the nature you describe feels like. It's no joke. Hope your doing better✌️✌️
 
Aqua Man

Aqua Man

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Ever thought about hydro? about dwc? or top drip or ebb and flow with clay pebbles? No more soil. It doesn't need to be complicated the hydro that is. Just curious. I know what frustration of the nature you describe feels like. It's no joke. Hope your doing better✌️✌️
Yeah I started in hydro. Growth was kinda stupid. Coco works for me because if the ability to SoG and move plants around.
 
Texasdigger35

Texasdigger35

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TEMPERATURE AND HUMIDITY

The warmer the temps the more evaporation occurs.

The lower your humidity the more evaporation occurs

The more surface area exposed to air movement (wind) the more evaporation.

Think those don't need an explanation. But the difference in pot material coupled with these environmental factors will have an impact on your watering needs.

The temperature of the media not only affects evaporation but also directly affect the temperature of the plant and leaf temps. This has a large impact on nutrient uptake and transportation.

First let me say that this next part is opinion and I will gives my reasoning for my opinions. With the exception of hydro (leaving this part out as this post is about watering not hydro) roots like to be about the same temperature as the leaves contrary to what's talked about from many prominent growers in the industry but not all like Mr.Bruce Bugbee. IMO ideal root temps are the same as ideal leaf temps and overall plant temps especially since the root temps have a large impact on the plant and leaf temps. What are ideal temps imo and many studies show that leaf temps (NOT AIR TEMPS) of around 77f are most efficient. So how does a cool rootzone impact the plants negatively? Well it's 2 fold because of the cool temps the viscosity (measument of flow rate) of the sap will decrease so its harder for the plant to move the nutrients through the plant. The other is absorption and one fact is that in a cooler rootzone the concentration of nutrients is higher (but aqua you just said it slows absorption) well it does as the nutrients build up in the roots it can absorb less and this has a direct impact negatively on the plant. It may appear to be overwatered because the plant is now struggling to take up and use oxygen. Add that to the slowed transpiration rates and you have the same symtom many refer to overwatering which againnos lack of o2. Now take a cold rootzone where the plants slow water uptake and then add the saturation zone to it and you can see the road to correction and recover is a long one and can have huge impact on growth and yields.

So you your pots up off the floor
Super good info here. Would you care to expand on the hot temp aspect? Went over pretty well what cold temps do but not hot. This year were in the mid 90s daily and its a cool year. 100s are normal most years with very high humidity.
 
Texasdigger35

Texasdigger35

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18
Coco is the one thing I have not tried to create a better gas exchange. My perlite/pumice/cactus & succulent soil/sand portion of my mix is up to almost half of the total volume. Yet I still cannot get my soil to drain properly or provide space for root expansion. My root balls are severely stunted making the plants difficult to water and unsteady in the Santa Ana winds even with silica supplementation. I had thought leftover hyphae from mycorrhizae supplementation from previous grows, after being raked in the sun for a week to kill any pathogens that had wiped out my first grow this year. So for my fourth try this season, now with an auto (Bruce Banner Fast) none of the leftover soil was used. I used fresh Ocean Forest and compost with a 40% mix of the above noted "circulation additives" and still have a pot of wet mud that can't breathe. This mix is touted all over as correct, so why doesn't it work for me? My pots are 21" tall!! I also have used a plant stake to poke 30+-holes to the bottom of my tall plastic cans (see pics) for drainage and circulation to no effect. I have now gone thru 56! seeds this year to get a half dozen runted waste of times. I've used the same mixes for previous seasons with fine success, I'm still at a total loss as to why I can't grow this year due to soil problems not draining. Yes, it is a little cooler this year, but not enough to make this much trouble. I cannot repot again as I now have a broken shoulder. I'm going away for a week so plants may die anyway as I have no one to help water. I bought an automatic watering system only to realize it only uses tap water which here is poison to young seedlings with a PPM over 500!! And it's full of chlorine and chloramines. I may try another auto when I return, I'll no doubt have some empty cans by then as the plants die off.
Maybe you should start ur own thread. I've got some ideas about what's wrong but don't want to interfere with aquamans awesome info. It was a really good thread he had going.
 
Aqua Man

Aqua Man

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Super good info here. Would you care to expand on the hot temp aspect? Went over pretty well what cold temps do but not hot. This year were in the mid 90s daily and its a cool year. 100s are normal most years with very high humidity.
Good point I'll respond fast off the top of my head then add info to the main post once I can confirm and grab a little more from some reading so thus won't be as thorough but just some of the info as I understand it based how plants work.

So outdoors high temos plants can tolerate much better because those temps are not constant but rather peak, the air movement is really good and the soil generally stays fairly cool. Now in pots that changes.

Like most things plants they like stability so they have adapted to help them maintain a plant temperature that they prefer. Many studies show cannabis around 75-77f is what they do the highest photosynthetic rates.

So in soil you see much less heat stress than you would say in a clone beside it in a pot.

Thus us because ground temp impacts the temp of the water being taken up and this provides some cooling.

The wind causes forced evaporation from the leaves cooling the plant much like when we sweat. Transpiration will increase in higher temps in attempt to help keep the plants cool also.

Thus leads to a lot more uptake and you should be mindful to reduce your nutrients accordingly.

Hi temls cause more evaporation from media which can help keep it cool and why fabric posts stay cool than plastic pots.

I can go on here but I'll add to the main post and then post that it's updated
 
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