What causes this curling/canoeing downwards?

[Beachwalker]

Yes i checked my water after adding nutrients, it adjusted to 6.6.

6.5 for best results in Fox Farm imo

P.s. maybe try something like this?

 

[Tico Brohei]

Micromanaging ph in lime buffered soil is only going to mess things up. If the ph is low there was too much watering or too much nutes. I use 8.0 ph well water and never adjust the ph. The soil and plant do that.

Also lemon juice and vinegar may show corrected ph at the time of mixing but break down almost instantly in the soil and do nothing but add a little more acid each time. Hence after a while acidic soil.

Best to know the alkalinity and effects of our source water and nutrient program on the medium and why.

Happy frog has plenty of lime. It was measured in to keep ph about 6.5 at the factory. it is also bery dense soil. Ocean forest is much better but both need additional large perlite for decent results.

So even though the soil was factory adjusted for PH it is now out out to lunch. Do you think it would recover on its own watering without adjusting the waters PH? My tap water is usually around 7.6-7.8. Or should the I take matters into my own hands and raise the PH myself? I’m thinking the sooner I correct it the better, no?

 

[Ignignokt]

My plants have only done this when their roots weren’t happy.

Could be too much water. Could be the lemon juice.

Could be too much water. Could be the lemon juice.

I'm simply not going to ask about the lemon juice.

I have very acid water from my well - ph 5.4 on a good day. I have to shift that on anything I grow in containers ( especially soil, because it has a memory like an elephant ) to the more sane range of 6-6.5. I see just what you see when I'm lazy and I don't treat the water. The roots are wondering WTAF? The chemistry at root level is locked up and only a few select nutrients are available. Growth stalls. Weird shit happens - and half a dozen symptoms show up that look like you are missing some critical nutrient. If it continues, the plant loses resistance to pathogens and pests. This is a farmer's version of a dumpster fire.

Soil chemistry is the thing. And what that is like is driven by ph levels. Period. All the biology that happens at a microbe level is also driven by the ph levels because they need certain ionic conditions to do what they do.

 

[MIMedGrower]

So even though the soil was factory adjusted for PH it is now out out to lunch. Do you think it would recover on its own watering without adjusting the waters PH? My tap water is usually around 7.6-7.8. Or should the I take matters into my own hands and raise the PH myself? I’m thinking the sooner I correct it the better, no?

The point is you cant just change the ph without ammendments. You likely have plenty of calcium in your water so water without adding acid and water only to runoff to clear out excess nutes and waste. This will basically reset the pot. And add calcium to the medium. Then only if needed feed light and work up slowly only as the plant needs it.

Watering to good 20-25% runoff will help keep the roots from clogging.

 

[MIMedGrower]

I'm simply not going to ask about the lemon juice.

I have very acid water from my well - ph 5.4 on a good day. I have to shift that on anything I grow in containers ( especially soil, because it has a memory like an elephant ) to the more sane range of 6-6.5. I see just what you see when I'm lazy and I don't treat the water. The roots are wondering WTAF? The chemistry at root level is locked up and only a few select nutrients are available. Growth stalls. Weird shit happens - and half a dozen symptoms show up that look like you are missing some critical nutrient. If it continues, the plant loses resistance to pathogens and pests. This is a farmer's version of a dumpster fire.

Soil chemistry is the thing. And what that is like is driven by ph levels. Period. All the biology that happens at a microbe level is also driven by the ph levels because they need certain ionic conditions to do what they do.

It isnt the ph. That is stable and buffered. It is the cation exchange that doesnt work when the roots are clogged or soggy.

 

[Ignignokt]

It isnt the ph. That is stable and buffered. It is the cation exchange that doesnt work when the roots are clogged or soggy.

I would agree that over-watering gets you there as well and @MIMedGrower knows his shit better than most. I have to admit I saw the lemon juice reference and well, I kinda lost it as I was slow to figure out my well water issue. I think that over-watering yields a higher effective ph at the roots perhaps because of the carnage from anerobic warfare. High normal ph usually requires an abundance of moisture in natural landscapes and dry areas tend to the alkaline. There are a few chemists that come around here now and again that would probably have something more profound to explain that observation - which is why I like to come back and see who has darkened the doorway here lately. :D

 

[thunderfudge]

Water the roots not the soil bro.they look a little overpotted,too much dirt for the size of plant.if they cant process the moisture in the pot in a timely manor,the roots will run out of oxygen before water and suffocate.and they most definitely wont uptake at that point.u need to pull the plant and check your roots for a better diagnosis.if they're not white and hitting the sides by now,that's your deal.

Isnt it already buffered at 6.5? Which is on the high side.check a nutrient uptake chart.6.28 has always been my number in any medium except for dwc

 

[thunderfudge]

Also bro isnt 75 way out of range for an LED? most guys I see doing well run 80-82 until week 4-5 in flower.

 

[Tico Brohei]

Water the roots not the soil bro.they look a little overpotted,too much dirt for the size of plant.if they cant process the moisture in the pot in a timely manor,the roots will run out of oxygen before water and suffocate.and they most definitely wont uptake at that point.u need to pull the plant and check your roots for a better diagnosis.if they're not white and hitting the sides by now,that's your deal.

Isnt it already buffered at 6.5? Which is on the high side.check a nutrient uptake chart.6.28 has always been my number in any medium except for dwc

Yes I believe overwatering was an issue early on. I went from a solo cup to a 5 gallon pot which I now know was probably too much of a jump. Something I will do differently on my next grow. I got around to testing my runoff after watering with unadjusted tap water and they were all in the low 5 range (5.0-5.3). However the sick plant came out very low at 4.0. I flushed all 4 plants and thats seemed to help. Right after flushing the runoff was closer to 6 on the 3 healthier plants and the sick plant had been back up over 5. The other the plants are doing very well right now and the sick one is starting to have its colour return. Lots of learning by trial and error going on with my first grow but I believe I’m on the right track now.

 

[Tico Brohei]

Also bro isnt 75 way out of range for an LED? most guys I see doing well run 80-82 until week 4-5 in flower.

The grow tent is pretty much 80 during the day.