What the hell did you do to my BUD CANDY Advance

  • Thread starter JACKMAYOFFER
  • Start date
  • Tagged users None
GrowMaster

GrowMaster

983
243
Hey bud, budcandy is Carboload and Sweet Leaf all in one:)
There is enough good shit in the budcandy where the brown sweet molasses is not needed after there scientific study:)>>>>To much sugar is what they say.

:passingjoint:
gtd
Hay bro I know, Ive been useing advanced nutes for 7yrs, and befor that it was GH, I know all about there nutes, thats all i like to use. Ive always said molasses was no good, its to heavy of a suger its to hard for the plants to process, at least thats what they tell me.
 
J

Jalisco Kid

Guest
Buy some xylitol,dextrose,and maltose and your good to go,way cheaper then buying carbolaod. JK
 
B

burnalot420

Lolipop Genetics
Supporter
844
18
so what is it that makes up carbo load, i thought that was sugars(molasses), but now that i think about it, carboload is a cloudy/clear kinda color..what is it exactly
 
sky high

sky high

4,796
313
^^^^^^so what is it that makes up carbo load?^^^^^

Buy some xylitol,dextrose,and maltose and your good to go,way cheaper then buying carboload. JK

sky whistles....looks in the air....scratches ground with his toe.... :winking0067:
 
Billygoat

Billygoat

1,235
63
I just bought a bottle this morning and it's clear color type, so I'm guessing no molasses in it. I could careless, also long as it does what it's supposes to do. Just letting everyone know. Up north, we are getting the clear stuff.
Take care,
BG
 
greenthumbdanny

greenthumbdanny

Premium Member
Supporter
1,583
63
The change is traveling fast Billy, It Will be just fine without the sweet brown mollases>>>>Thats what gave it its brown color>>>It has plenty of other sugars and good shit where its just not needed.. I do have 6 big bottles left of the old batch:)
ttys brah
GTD
 
GrowMaster

GrowMaster

983
243
Ya Im glad they took the molasses out, I had problems, with it plugging up my wand, I like to mix my nutes 12hr befor I feed, and when I looked in my tank after a good mixing before i fed, it looked like algae floating in my tank, so I just started leaving out the budcandy until i was ready to feed and that seemed to help alot, I also noticed my buds dident come out as frosty as they do when I use carboload.
 
B

burnalot420

Lolipop Genetics
Supporter
844
18
^^^^^what is in the carbo load...only reason i ask is that i thought that it was the sugars, and carboload has never been brown..so is it the sweet leaf that orig. had the molasses in it..that is what makes up bud candy right?-carboload/sweetleaf...peace Burn
 
G

GROHARD

44
8
I know its a little off topic but has anyone noticed that they changed the voodoo too!LOL The first time I got the expensive ass damn near 300$ bottle and I'll never forget the ridiculous, puke/rancid foul X100 type of Stank going on. That Shit along with the piranha and sensi grow a & b = KABOOM IN VEG!!LOL That bottle ran out bought some about a year later and the first thing I did when I opened the bottle was ready myself for that ridiculous foul disgusting aroma. Only problem is, the STANK was gone!!LOL Not only was the stank gone but so was my KABOOM IN VEG!!LOL After being disappointed by the results I changed my regiment dropped the voodoo and added Roots Xcelarator and have never looked back...... After finding this thread I'm starting to believe that AN is a bunch of Hustlers and runnin' the ole, bait and switch, rabbit in front of the greyhound trick, ya dig?LOL They introduce a product and claim how incredible it is, make up 1 or 2 massive Batches of the Primo, put it out there. Fools get it, use it, report the fantastic results. Meanwhile they already have the "hi production formula" ready to implement just as soon as they get the game in a choke hold. Because folks truly experience great results they assume that its something wrong with another area of there grow because they don't know why theyre gettin such vastly different results. Just a theory......
 
6

666elsie

Guest
A-N EH!! a bunch of plagiarising bums is what they are!! nothing that they put out is there own product!! I've heard this from the LIONs mouth,chew on that..refined,improved,nada yada.See the big stoking Hummers they all drive thanx to you !!I'd give em bag sweat !!5 days old.
I do not see the mention of essential microbes,when using Molasses,it is a must for the molasses to work properly!!
 
6

666elsie

Guest
I've watched the discussion of using molasses to aid in growing with lots of interest.

However, using raw molasses IS NOT the best method in which to arrive at the desired end of plant enhancement.

The below information is collected from a site that discusses using molasses as the primary ingredient in the fermentation of EM, (Effective microorganisms).

If you use molasses in it's raw form, you're in the s-l-o-w lane. You're requiring it to ferment while in your plant medium. This is not an efficient manner to use it.

Check out this information and if you're interested, the additive EM is available from many sources including the one that I quoted.

Basically, the purchased EM is added to warm water and molasses. It's kept at 85-95 degrees F. for 4 days or until the pH drops below 4.0

It's then added in a ratios of anywhere from 1:1,000 to 1:10,000 to either dirt or hydroponic solution to accomplish the great things it does. Please read the entire page that this comes from before using it for specific applications. The ratio for your use may differ from that of another user.

Here's the information:

*****

History of EM
Throughout the 1970s and 80s Dr. Higa pioneered the research that led to the development and commercialization of EM technology. This natural and organic biotechnology has since been successfully commercialized throughout world markets in human health, agriculture, livestock and industrial waste treatment. Thousands of research and efficacy studies have been conducted and documented in projects, conferences and books around the world.

Originally, EM was developed for use in agriculture (crop farming) as an alternative to agricultural chemicals such as pesticides and fertilizers. EM however is not a conventional fertilizer and unlike the purpose of fertilizers, the purpose of EM is to increase the number of beneficial microorganisms in the soil. This improves the soil's microbial health and promotes a healthy environment for plants. It can also be used as a processing tool to manufacture organic fertilizers.

Effective microorganisms, often abbreviated as "EM", is a generic and descriptive phrase and acronym to describe the theories, technology and applications of beneficial microorganisms, such as phototrophic bacteria, yeast, lactic acid bacteria and actinomycetes.

This technology is all natural, utilizing beneficial and effective microbes to repopulate environments with healthy microorganisms. It is a natural and organic technology that has been found to be useful in numerous ways to benefit mankind.

When applied in agriculture, EM increases the microbial diversity of soil, thus, enhancing growth, yield, quality, and disease-resistance of crops. EM cultures do not contain any genetically modified microorganisms. EM is made of mixed cultures of microbial species that occur naturally in environments worldwide but which have decreased in many soils due to over-farming, and chemical fertilizer and pesticide use. The principal microorganisms in EM are:

A. Photosynthetic Bacteria
The photosynthetic or phototropic bacteria are a group of independent, self supporting microbes. These bacteria synthesize useful substances from secretions of roots, organic matter and/or harmful gases (eg. hydrogen sulphide), by using sunlight and the heat of soil as sources of energy. Useful substances developed by these microbes include amino acids, nucleic acids, bioactive substances and sugars, all of which promote plant growth and development. The metabolites developed by these microorganisms are absorbed directly into plants and act as substrates for increasing beneficial populations.

Seed Treatment:
Gardeners may want to try soaking seeds in a solution of EM before planting to increase seed viability. Dilute EM with water at 1:1000. Soak seeds in solution for 5-10 minutes and no longer. Air dry and plant as usual. Experiment with small batches before treating larger quantities. Weak seeds and soil conditions may lead to decreased results.

Nursery / Container-grown Plants:
Inoculate with EM at seeding and transplant stages, then on a monthly basis thereafter. Use the standard dilution of 1:1000. Orchid growers have achieved good results by inoculating with EM immediately after planting in sterile media.

Hydroponics:
In hydroponic crop production systems, EM can be diluted with the nutrient solution at a rate of 1:10,000. This practice will coat the root systems with beneficial microorganisms and make nutrient uptake more efficient.

Grain Crops, Vegetables, Fruits & Herbs:
Spray the standard dilution of 1:1000 onto the plants. If introducing EM into an irrigation system, the dilution should be increased to 1:10,000. Apply as a pre-planting treatment, again at planting/transplanting and every three to four weeks during crop growth. Apply also to crop residues after harvest, just before incorporating residues into the soil. Use 1 gallon of activated EM per acre, diluted with the appropriate amount of water for each application.

Activating EM (AEM)
There are probably many places where you can buy EM. The place this information was harvested from is:


This product, combined with the fermentation of a molasses based solution results in the Activated EM that is very good for plants.

The primary reason to activate EM is economy, not efficacy. It is perfectly acceptable to use EM without activating it. However, adding a sugar source and culturing the microorganisms ensures that the microbes are active. Once the following procedure has been followed, the end result will be a full strength culture of EM that can then be diluted and applied. Materials: airtight plastic container, or large tank, 1 part EM, 1 part blackstrap molasses, 22 parts water. 3/4 cup EM, 3/4 cup molasses in 1 gallon of water.

Procedure: Dissolve molasses in warm water and add EM. Activating EM is a mostly anaerobic process, thus the presence of excessive oxygen is not desirable. Keep the extension as warm as possible. If you keep the EM between 85-95 degrees it should activate in approximately 4 days. If the extension is kept between 70-80 degrees then allow for 5-7 days.

Depending on technique and extension conditions, it may take anywhere from 4-14 days. Check the pH to ascertain when the process is complete; EM is ready when the pH drops to 3.7 or below. Do not use EM that has not dropped below 4.0. If your pH continues to drop to 3.0 or even 2.0 this is normal and indicates high microbial activity. The end product should smell slightly sweet and pickled. Activated EM, unlike EM, is best used within 7 days. It may last up to 1 month but should be used within this time. Do not extend an EM extension - the results cannot be guaranteed.
 
altitudefarmer

altitudefarmer

3,271
263
666elsie, your post is incredibly informative. Thanks for sharing it.
 
Blaze

Blaze

2,006
263
Grohard hit the nail on the head. AN is nothing but a bunch of hustlers and their products are major rips offs. They DO change their recipes too - I've got a few bottles from a couple years ago before I realized what a joke AN is, and the ingredients are NOT the same if you compare it to the current production. Some of their stuff may work well but you can get similar products that will give you just as good if not better results and cost you a fraction of the amount of money.

Voodoo juice is a great example of this. $300 a gallon for what is nothing more than sugar and microbes is INSANE. It is literally 500 times more expensive than buying microbes from a "real" agriculture company. I'm not kidding either - you can get the exact same thing for literally a few buck verses $300.

Same with the carbo load. Why the heck would you pay $60 a gallon for nothing more than sugars? Again, you can buy a bulk carbo load from a real agriculture company for pennies on the dollar compared to what AN charges.
 
Shady

Shady

Chillin' in the Shade...
Supporter
3,747
113
I use it to feed all my beneficial bacteria and if you see my roots they speak for them selves, If there is one thing I try to tell every one is I have an amazing root sauce ,One week and there blown out here is what I use ...Bud Candy 2 tsp per gallon,Roots Excelerator,Cannazym 2 tsp per gallon, VERMI T add 4 bags per 100 gallons once a week,Piranaha and this is what you get...I know people say that it makes the smoke taste the same I have not had this issue I ran 10 different strains and they where all different...JACK

I'm experiencing crazy pH drifts with the Bud Candy... Did you find a suitable solution? :sweating

What do you recommend for a final flush in soil... Use unsulfured molasses instead of Bud Candy in the second to last week before harvest?

EDIT: just read the entire thread...
YES Thats why I showed both bottles kind of shady rite..:no
fuck yeah that's Shady... The bottle of Bud Candy I've got has molasses and is brown. Is this version good to use for the Final Flush or is that a bad idea cuz it says it's for the first 6 wks of flowering?
 
greenthumbdanny

greenthumbdanny

Premium Member
Supporter
1,583
63
lol yep thats the old one shady... I have still yet to try the new bud candy. I am still stocked up with plenty from the old batch.
Flush with BudCandy first week, second week straight water. Is one way>>>The other is on the label..
Also note the label does not pertain to 10 week strains. weeks 1-6 like the label says is intended for 8 week strains
 
Shady

Shady

Chillin' in the Shade...
Supporter
3,747
113
lol yep thats the old one shady... I have still yet to try the new bud candy. I am still stocked up with plenty from the old batch.
Flush with BudCandy first week, second week straight water. Is one way>>>The other is on the label..
Also note the label does not pertain to 10 week strains. weeks 1-6 like the label says is intended for 8 week strains
Hey there GTD... thx for responding!!! I've been using the Bud Candy in lower strength than on the label since week 2 on my Chem's and Kushes in soil. Since they are gonna go 10 wks (probably 11 wks for the Chems), and were flushed with FloraKleen a couple weeks ago, do I need to flush again or just use R/O water and Bud Candy during the 2nd to last week?

Also, how long do you flush in hydro? One week of R/O water in the res?
 
JACKMAYOFFER

JACKMAYOFFER

Playing with Fire Son...
Supporter
939
263
Shady I can give you exacatly what I use for flush if you want to use it let me know...JACK
 
Shady

Shady

Chillin' in the Shade...
Supporter
3,747
113
Absolutely Jack! I'd like to hear the details of your final flush technique... :thinking
 

Latest posts

Top Bottom