Seraphine
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I keep a fresh mix of bleach water in a bucket in my room to easily sanitize floors, walls, inside my tents, and equipment daily or as needed.
Whiteflies are a pain and a major pest in most greenhouses. Also a vector of certain diseases in some areas. Yellow sticky traps will help.great thread thanks to everyone who contributed thus far. i keep finding 'white flies' i know how they got here but damm killing em off perm like seems to be more difficult than i had first thought. i'm gong to make some orange oil today and give it a go, figure the smell will be nice and see how it goes. thanks all
OG .
@dirtbag
Thank you so much dirt bag. I have some more questions if you have the time to answer. You are such a wealth of info!!!
I killed and dumped the flowering plants. A hard choice to make at the end of wk 3, but seemed like the best thing to do because i don’t really want to invest all that extra work and energy only to have the flowers be dull and small in the end.
As a regular ongoing IPM strategy in the future I will follow your recommendation of a Botanigard drench in the first 2/3 of flower. 2 questions about this. First, Botanigard is expensive, so as regular maintenance (after root aphids are gone), do you think 1 or 2 drenches with Botanigard will be adequate enough? Second, I think I read that you cannot use nutrients in the same mix as a Botanigard drench. Is that correct?
My current IPM spraying regime in veg and first 2/3 flower: Azagard + Zerotol 1x/wk, Botanigard 1x/ wk, and sulfur every 10 days. Do you think that spraying these weekly will build resistance? should i switch to other sprays as well sometimes?
(I did realize through your thread that the Botanigard that I have been spraying was most likely too old to have been doing anything.) Is it correct that 1 bag of Botanigard should be used within 2/3 months and after that it is no longer viable?
The thing that I am most concerned about after going through all this effort and investment to suspend plants in Veg and treat with Imid, sterilize the space, and buy new pots is that the Root Aphid eggs will still be around and hatch in 6 months again!!! the lil
bastards:/
Luckily I have 2 spaces in different locations so I can completely clear plants out of one space and sterilize and then move plants over and sterilize other space. Regarding getting rid of eggs, I’ve read so many things. what would you recommend for the eggs? I was thinking to heat rooms to 105 for 4 hrs to hatch eggs, then bomb with pyrethrum, then spray H2O2. will that do it? god i sound paranoid....
Im looking forward to seeing the flowers at their full potential again. I think the root aphids have been plaguing me for 6 months or more.
Thanks again and blessings!
The impact of sulfur on biological control of spider mites in Washington State vineyards and hop yards
Data collected from field studies and experiments conducted in Washington State vineyards and hop yards during 2001-2005 indicate that the multiple use of sulfur as a tool to manage powdery mildew, has an adverse impact on biological control of spider mites. In...link.springer.comEffects of chlorpyrifos and sulfur on spider mites (Acari: Tetranychidae) and their natural enemies
In many agricultural systems spider mites are believed to be induced pests, only reaching damaging densities after pesticides decimate predator popula…www.sciencedirect.com
One negative I saw with it (sulphur) is your only dedicated to it, look at the manual where it states you can’t use any oils or anything but only sulphur sprayed ? Rotation of IPM is key and many bugs and many different stages of the pest you should different pesticides to battle em. Even in order to keep the pest at bay and lower populations vs a one pesticide plan + shouldn’t be used in flower ;)