Whats your pesticide?

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Seraphine

Seraphine

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I keep a fresh mix of bleach water in a bucket in my room to easily sanitize floors, walls, inside my tents, and equipment daily or as needed.
 
Seraphine

Seraphine

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Also, I sterilize my coco coir with a light bleach solution. I hydrate a large brick of coco in a storage container and it takes exactly four gallons of water to do that. I add a little bleach in each gallon before I pour it over the coco. That will kill any egg ,critter, pest, disease that happened to survive the packaging process. before I use the coco I rinse it thoroughly in my fabric pots. Plus bleach actually breaks down quickly.
 
ozarkgrey

ozarkgrey

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great thread thanks to everyone who contributed thus far. i keep finding 'white flies' i know how they got here but damm killing em off perm like seems to be more difficult than i had first thought. i'm gong to make some orange oil today and give it a go, figure the smell will be nice and see how it goes. thanks all

OG .
 
Seraphine

Seraphine

1,192
263
great thread thanks to everyone who contributed thus far. i keep finding 'white flies' i know how they got here but damm killing em off perm like seems to be more difficult than i had first thought. i'm gong to make some orange oil today and give it a go, figure the smell will be nice and see how it goes. thanks all

OG .
Whiteflies are a pain and a major pest in most greenhouses. Also a vector of certain diseases in some areas. Yellow sticky traps will help.

You’ll want to use a knockdown insecticide if the population is high. Find one that specifically targets whiteflies. Orange oil might work.

Once you knock the population down, Beauveria bassiana products are good for control.
 
Seraphine

Seraphine

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If your plants are small enough, dipping them in your pesticide is beat for coverage. If not make sure you spray the undersides throughly. You can also try to vacuum the fliers.
 
greenery44

greenery44

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@dirtbag

Thank you so much dirt bag. I have some more questions if you have the time to answer. You are such a wealth of info!!!

I killed and dumped the flowering plants. A hard choice to make at the end of wk 3, but seemed like the best thing to do because i don’t really want to invest all that extra work and energy only to have the flowers be dull and small in the end.

As a regular ongoing IPM strategy in the future I will follow your recommendation of a Botanigard drench in the first 2/3 of flower. 2 questions about this. First, Botanigard is expensive, so as regular maintenance (after root aphids are gone), do you think 1 or 2 drenches with Botanigard will be adequate enough? Second, I think I read that you cannot use nutrients in the same mix as a Botanigard drench. Is that correct?

My current IPM spraying regime in veg and first 2/3 flower: Azagard + Zerotol 1x/wk, Botanigard 1x/ wk, and sulfur every 10 days. Do you think that spraying these weekly will build resistance? should i switch to other sprays as well sometimes?
(I did realize through your thread that the Botanigard that I have been spraying was most likely too old to have been doing anything.) Is it correct that 1 bag of Botanigard should be used within 2/3 months and after that it is no longer viable?

The thing that I am most concerned about after going through all this effort and investment to suspend plants in Veg and treat with Imid, sterilize the space, and buy new pots is that the Root Aphid eggs will still be around and hatch in 6 months again!!! the lil
bastards:/

Luckily I have 2 spaces in different locations so I can completely clear plants out of one space and sterilize and then move plants over and sterilize other space. Regarding getting rid of eggs, I’ve read so many things. what would you recommend for the eggs? I was thinking to heat rooms to 105 for 4 hrs to hatch eggs, then bomb with pyrethrum, then spray H2O2. will that do it? god i sound paranoid....

Im looking forward to seeing the flowers at their full potential again. I think the root aphids have been plaguing me for 6 months or more.

Thanks again and blessings!
 
B

Burned Haze

Guest

One negative I saw with it (sulphur) is your only dedicated to it, look at the manual where it states you can’t use any oils or anything but only sulphur sprayed ? Rotation of IPM is key and many bugs and many different stages of the pest you should different pesticides to battle em. Even in order to keep the pest at bay and lower populations vs a one pesticide plan + shouldn’t be used in flower ;)
 
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Dirtbag

Dirtbag

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One negative I saw with it (sulphur) is your only dedicated to it, look at the manual where it states you can’t use any oils or anything but only sulphur sprayed ? Rotation of IPM is key and many bugs and many different stages of the pest you should different pesticides to battle em. Even in order to keep the pest at bay and lower populations vs a one pesticide plan + shouldn’t be used in flower ;)

This info is only useful in the US. In most other countries we cant buy any of the other stuff you recommend which I would absolutely use like regalia etc. Sulphur is our only option. It's what the LP's use, because even they cant buy/use regalia yet.

And I think there is a big difference between field crops sprayed with powdered sulphur and indoor crops getting sulphur vapour.

But you are correct, if you live in the US there are better options than going straight to a sulphur burner.
 

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